Ford Excursion :: 2003 - Added FICM - Misfire Or Stutter At High RPM?
Nov 2, 2013
Just picked up a 03 Excursion limited 6.0, traded in my 04 f150 for it. Runs great- The dealer put in a new FICM and did a full tune up on it, also has stock bolts, NOT studs. I just added a SCT livewire with canned tunes, and have what feels like a misfire or stutter at high boost/ RPM. The only thing I see on the SCT gauges is the ICP hits about 22.5 and then drops off, that is with the street tune, when i go back to stock i can hit 24+ all day without a issue. Both tunes have my FICM at 48-48.5 and never moves. The ICP Duty also in both tunes will go to about .7-.8 and never drops... Is this the fuel pressure dropping from lack of the "Blue Spring mod" ?
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My 2003 f150 5.4l has developed a slight stutter when I turn from a stop or go from reverse to drive or vise versa. I had thought it was the IAC so I replaced it but the issue is still there. There are no engine codes and it does not miss fire at idle or while driving. The problem appears to be happening only when the a/c is on. Could the belt be the cause?
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2000 F250 7.3L ZF 6spd 4x4 regular cab long bed 253k
DP F6 chip, 4" exhaust, WW2, EBV delete
I run 5w40 Rotella Synthetic. Oil was changed about 1,000 miles ago. I also added a quart of Hot Shot stiction eliminator. I use Power Service and Stanadyne lubricity in every tank. Fuel filter is new.(motorcraft)
For a month or so its been acting weird. I get a stumble/miss/stutter, at random, but mostly under hard acceleration and high rpm (specifically approx 2500-2800rpm). It will also do it on decel when I lift after accellerating . Recently, I noticed it is also idling roughly. The engine is shaking and it feels like a miss. When it does its "thing" it sounds like a single "knock". Occassionally, it sort of sounds like an injector "buzzing". I've been using the "stock" tune for the last few weeks, to minimize any chance of engine damage, as I have to drive it. Turning up the chip makes the problems more noticeable and happen at a lower rpm. The truck has plenty of power, and pulls hard, except for the "stutter". If I hold my foot in it to "push through" the initial stumble at 2500 or so, it will keep going a few hundred more rpm, and then really start bucking.
There are no meaningful codes. I DO have:
EBV related soft codes - makes sense since its deleted.
Overboost related codes- from turning the chip up - won't happen in stock setting
A soft code for the back pressure SENSOR. I have a new one and will be cleaning the tube when I get a chance. I unplugged the sensor and it made no difference in the miss issue.
I have recently done the following in pursuit of a solution to all this:
New IPR (autozone) valve and pigtail
New ICP (motorcraft) and pigtail ( sensor had oil in it)
New CMP and pigtail. (2 actually. First a standard pc139 for the obs, and currently a Napa echlin correct for '00) No change. Although it initially had the dreaded Ford small head light grey sensor and failed cct for #3 & 8. After the cps change, it passed cct.
Accellerator Pedal Position Sensor. It would not read any higher then 3.95v at wot, and only 0.50v at idle, so I installed a new one. After adjusting it a little, I have 0.76v at idle, and 4.02 at wot. Didn't affect the stumble issue, but it seemed to greatly improve/eliminate my parking lot speed "bucking".
I just did the UVCH's. The passenger side was pretty much unplugged. But they all looked good. No burnt, melted,or chafed wires anywhere. I probably could have just plugged it back in, but I changed both sides with new Motorcraft parts anyway. I did the gaskets and the uvch, but not the engine side harness/pigtail, as they looked ok. I also did the 0.50 mod as a preventative measure. After seeing the unplugged harness, I really thought this would be the end of the problem, but its not. Very frustrated.
As a side note, I was surprised to see that I have 8 AD injectors, and not an AE in cyl 8.
I have an old outdated snapon scanner. Its only good up to '99, but I am able to scan my 2000 as a '99. I think I'm missing some pids though.
I can do cct and buzz test, but no PERDEL readings.
As far as ICP, it idles at about 450psi, at approx 12% IPR dc. On a brief 2nd gear wot run, it will hit (and hold as long as I have road to stay in it) a little over 2900psi, at 41-42% IPR duty cycle. I did notice, during these near instantaneous stumble events, ICP would flutter on the scanner about 75-100psi. Its almost too quick to even see it.
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I added signal paddle mirrors on my 2000 Ex. I found the left and right turn signal wires under the dash. The mirror led signal arrows light up but they do not blink. Do I need a separate relay or am I just missing something here? I did a search about adding mirrors and extra wires but nothing is mentioned anywhere about the blink/no blink remedy.
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I have a 2005 6.0 and a FICM tuner from PHP. I need to remove the FICM relay so I don't fry injector 1 (I think that what it is). Anyway, I've done a lot of reading and can't seem to figure out which relay it is. The instructions say the relay closest to the passenger front, but also say almost always grey. So, The grey relay is passenger toward firewall. The directions also say that the injectors will not buzz if removed. I took each out and still had injector buzz. Tried again tonight, truck is hot, just been driven. I pulled the grey relay and turned key to on. Buzzed for just a second then stopped but did the same for the other relay and same when put back in.
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My 6.0 2005 Excursion has been running great lately except for an issue starting last week. I go to leave work and it cranks over-and keeps cranking over. I fire up the torque pro app and see that I have no FICM sync. It just reads 0. I pop the hood and fumble around the FICM connectors. Try cranking again and it cranks and cranks and finally kicks in. I have not had this happen since but am paranoid now that this will occur again in the worst possible place and listen to everyone in the family tell me to get rid of my prize and get a newer truck. I monitor quite a few things on the Torque pro app but could others chime in what I should be monitoring in the meantime to try and solve this issue.
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Well, coming home from work Friday and my truck turned on the check engine light. I did not notice any loss of power or other driveability issues. When I got home I pulled the DTC's. I got P0264, P0273, P0276, P0279, P0611, and U0306. The first four being low voltages. The Second FICM. And the last cylinder 6 misfire.
I sent a message to Ed at FICM Repair asking if there was anything to check before I pulled the beast. He said no it needed service no matter what at this point. BUT, I needed to test batteries and alternator. So I spent some time today pulling off my FICM.
I went ahead and pulled the EBP sensor and tube off from the exhaust manifold. The manifold end was very clean. BUT, the sensor end had a noticeable restriction. I would guess a 40% restriction. I cleaned the tube and the sensor and put it back on.
Next I moved to the EGR. I pulled it off and it was dirty but not what I would call restricted. The valve moved freely. I cleaned it anyway and blew out the manifold before I reinstalled it.
I have the batteries on a charger right now. Once they each charge for 12 hours each I will let them sit a day or two before I load test them. They are about four years old, AC Delco 60 month 875CCA batteries. I have had problems the last 6-8 months with staring the truck. If she sits for more than 3-4 weeks without being run she turns over slow and won't start. So I have had to jump start her a few times. And before you ask I have done a parasitic check and only have .05amp draw. So maybe the alternator is getting weak.
On that note I pulled the alternator and will get it bench tested this week. While I was there I noticed the top grooved and smooth idler pullies were a little "wobbly" so I yanked them too and will replace. Might as well do the belt while I'm at it. Boy this is going to get expensive real fast.
So, I decided to go ahead and replace the bottom coolant recovery hose and the long hose/pipe heater hose too. Boy it never ends. Oh well. I would rather do it now while I have stuff pulled off and it is easier to get to. Ordered those parts from RockAuto to the tune of 219 dollars. OUCH!!!
I accidentally broke my new engine oil dipstick while I was trying to get to the FICM!!!! CRAP!!!! More money. So......... Is there anything else I might want to look at while I am there?
The truck is 2006 F250 6.0 PSD CC SB 4x4 mid optioned XLT with 108,000+ miles. I have a 4" turbo back exhaust, AFE Cold Air Intake, Blue Spring, Hypertec Power Program 3 on the lowest setting, and an after market intake elbow at the intake manifold and an engine oil bypass filter. Turbo was pulled and de-coked about 18,000 miles back. Otherwise no issues. The 90,000 mile service was done about 10,000 miles ago. She gets regular services.
How about methanol injection? Will that keep the intake clean from the EGR sludge? I'm not thinking about added power, just keeping things cleaner? I plan to do the Atlas 40 when the FICM gets repaired.
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My 2002 f150 xl didn't come with factory cruise..I have installed all the essentials steering wheel, clock spring, cruise module, redundant brake sensor. My e.c.u. would not support cruise so I found a 1999 with all the same parameters as mine, I changed the dash cluster, e.c.u. , both pats modules, key cylinder ect....the truck started but ran horrible. My trucks has a 4.6 in it so did the donor truck. It's a 2x4 automatic with about 250k mi
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06 250 5.4 40k on it, usually when cold and accelerating engine will misfire and stutter and then continue accelerating. The wrench light will flash sometimes but it wont store a code. This used to be vague in occurrence but has now started to be more a common occurrence even when up to normal operating temps.It seems only to misfire /stutter on hard acceleration or towing/hauling heavy loads. The only answer I got from a mech would be to do a computer reflash, not sure why /how this would fix whats going on.
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B5.5 2001. When I am giving her gas you feel her stutter. But its not like a misfire stutter. Its more like a lose of power. Its almost like shes switching from boast to naturally aspirated. These stutters can also last a few seconds at a time. Where to start looking?
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I am trying to get opinions on the best and safest Head Gasket Sealer that will be used on a 2003 ford focus. I was recently told by a mechanic that my head gasket needed to be replaced and was the cause of the water reservoir losing antifreeze and constantly needing to be added even though there were no traces of leakage.
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Situation 01 Jetta AEG 2.0L codes catalyst below threshold and random misfires.
•found exhaust clogged due up catalyst. It was actually making contact with the rear O2
-replaced cat as an assembly and reset codes with Ross-tech
• start up, idles perfect no hesitation smooth. Road tested it and upon entering freeway ramp at it started stuttering/misfiring
• CEL flashed for cylinder 3 & 4. Inspected wires found #3 lost continuity, installed new wires.
•road tested and same result but only 4 came back. Swap plug with #2 and retested.
• #3 and 4 misfire came back again
- shooting in the dark to identify which way to go with it I tested:
•compression was solid 140
•fuel pressure 35 psi at idle and 45 when snapping the throttle.
-Suspicious spec is 55-72psi
•squeezed the return line to inspect if the Fuel pressure regulator valve possibly leaking excess.
Psi never went higher than 45 at idle and throttle snap to wot
•graphed the tps signal smooth with out drops or glitches up to values of 84 according to toss tech scan tool
•looking at measiring blocks one item that was odd is engine load at idle 99.5%
-swapped parts with known good parts with a good running 2002 Jetta aeg motor.
•MAF -no change
•ignition control module/ coil pack no change
-today ill be checking fuel pressure at the fuel pump and inspect if the fuel filter possibly clogged.
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1992 c1500 5.7L
Every time I start and put n reverse I had to rev it before i can reverse or it will die, when in drive if i barely put my foot on the gas it stutters like its not getting fuel or a misfire or something. i have changed just about every sensor there is, as well as plugs. it only stutters when lightly on the gas pedal.
*About once a month* after driving about 50miles when you let off the gas going down the road it starts loping real bad, drops about 4-600 rpm until it dies.
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2001 Excursion V10 with E4OD. Transmission is around 4 years. Old with 40-50K on it. Here's my timeline of problems.
Day 1. Went to dive and it slipped and caught taking off. Never felt that before. I drove it about 7 miles, no problem, when coming to a stop it stuttered a little. Checked fluid it was OK. Added some SeaFoam. Seemed worse and thought I was outta luck.
Day 2. I dropped the pan and found the normal metal around magnet plus a few metal shavings(not brass). Not many. I took it to a tranny guy and he said something inside has failed but he wasn't sure what. I changed filter, used same fluid as it looked ok, put it back together and added Lucas treatment. It moves ok, still slipping around 15% of the time on takeoff. After moving it runs/shifts great.
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2001 V6 Passat with 125k miles throwing a P0430 code.
Having trouble on cold starts, takes about 10 minutes to finally get it to turn over. When it does the idle is extremely rough. For the first 1/4 mile the car bucks, stutters, and misfires. After that it runs fine and starts fine when already warm. I am noticing slightly decreased gas mileage but nothing major.
Valve cover gaskets were replaced 2 months ago, but were leaking oil for at least a year before I could afford to have them replaced. I am still noticing some oil leakage, however not as much as before. I have had both O2 sensors replaced twice in the past 5 years. Timing belt was replaced at 98k. What might be causing the starting issues?
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Here's the deal with this car i just did head gasket, valve job, all new intake gaskets and spark plugs. Car idles fine and mid throttles fine but with high throttle it wont shift and flashes the random misfire light p0300 it seems to run out of power. I've heard everything from maf sensors to ignition coils and wires. i was just wonder a good place to start and good test to do. I have most testing equipment including scan tool so i can ride with it. o and all cylinders compression tested above 150.....
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I have a 2003 Ford Excursion with the high pressure line leaking. My guess is that the original line had a rubber hose and was replaced with a 3/8" ID high pressure hose. My problem is that I can not get the 3/8" ID replacement hose over the second larger bulge on the line going to the radiator cooler. What am I doing wrong?
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I have a no start on my 2003 6.0. What I've discover is that I have two issues, ICP pressure is low and the FICM is not syncing. My plan of attack is to fix the sync problem first then the ICP issue. FICM main power is good holds at 47.32 during crank but it has no FICM sync, I've check the camshaft position and crankshaft position sync status and it returns a value of in sync, it also reaches a max rpm of 257 during crank. Given those two values I think the cam and crank sensors are good. I did a visual inspection on the wire harness and can find no chaffing, shorts or hard bends. I think I either have a bad PCM or FICM. How I can narrow it down to one of the two?
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I have an early 03 F250 6.0 that won't start after I replaced all 3 FICM connectors, also # 8 injector pin and connector. It has been almost impossible to start before the repair.
I checked the grounds on
Pins #1 2 3 22 they were all .5 ohms
Pin #32 was 1.0 ohms.
Pins #7 27 were 12.7v ( battery voltage)
I have double checked all pin connections and wire colors, they are in the right holes, I haven't done any cranking voltage tests, as I am alone. The FICM has 48.2 v.
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My 2003 Expedition has begun to "stutter" when I am cruising around 35-50 MPH and not giving it much gas. If I am accelerating, or take it out of overdrive, it does much better. It is not an engine skip, more like a hesitation in the transmission. I recently had the transmission fluid changed.
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What can cause shutter in 1998 f-150 4.6 4x4 4r70w when slowly accelerating?
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