Ford Excursion :: 2003 7.3L - Oil Pan Rusting
Aug 25, 2006
While getting my oill changed, the pit guy reported my oil pan was rusting. I happened to be at the non local friendly FORD Dealer and mentioned it to the Service Manger who told me it was "the lousy steel FORD uses and your Differential covers are probably rusting out, too". And they are - from the inside out.
Seems strange to me oil bathed steel could rust, but the Dealer said the engine had to come out to replace the oil pan with an OEM. He would install a SS aftermarket, but he wouldn't warrent the pan.
So, where can I get a Stainless Oil Pan and Diff covers for a 2003 7.3L X?
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My hitch is rusting so bad that I can pull it off in pieces. Surprisingly it seems to be the only major rust on my EX. I crawled under it the other day to check out how it is removed and I only saw half of 4 bolts. Those bolts look like they are under the fuel tank and I can't get my socket onto them.
My question is, do I need to drop the fuel tank to remove the hitch, and also is there anything else I should do while the fuel tank is down.(Besides replacing the hitch with a new one.)
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Looking for any creative solution for roof rusting that does not involve a major body shop repair and paint job. I was wondering if it could be chemically neutralized and then covered (sealed) with something like Line X?
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I just noticed my excursion is rusting at the bottom of all 4 door panels With the rubber seals you wouldn't notice it unless you look for it. I was thinking of using pro-15 metal prep before the por-15, how did it work?
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After returning home from our trip last week I was giving the truck a once-over and trying to figure out why I had less clearance with the cab lights and the camper. Well a quick look down under revealed the culprit, the cross rail closest to the front is gone where it comes in contact with the frame. The inside of the bed would flex when I walked on it , in turn most every time I would hit a bump or transition in the road the camper would hit the cab lights. The rest of the bed is in real good shape, those rails are almost shot. Dually beds aren't cheap and getting someone to weld in new rails probably won't be either. We have decided to keep it at least one more year, I may attempt it on my own, get my brother -in-law to weld in the rails..
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We just sold our 04 Supercrew that was rusting out from underneath itself. I was unsure of what to get next until I drove this 2012 F140 XLT supercrew with the ecoboost. It is in fantastic shape and drive great. It does have 90k on its odometer and I wasn't sure if that should be of any real concern.
It was a one owner trade in and you would never tell the mileage by looking at it. I averaged 5k miles per year for the 5 years I owned my 04 so I don't drive real far. I also tow a 20' ultra lite camper which may get upgraded to a 24' ultra lite in a few years.
I just didn't know if I should be concerned about the high mileage with my driving habits and not driving very much. Do these motors have any maintenance issues? Everything I've read seems to be good....
This story really piqued my interest : [URL] ......
2012 F150 XLT Ecoboost with 90k.....
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My 2010 F150 super crew cab is rusting from the inside out on both cab corners. I purchased my truck about 3 years ago with 75,000 miles on it. After about 3 months I noticed the 3rd brake light was leaking. I went to the dealer but they wouldn't warranty it due to the mileage. They did acknowledge that there was a problem with the 3rd brake lamp leaking and was willing to sell me new parts. So I repaired that ASAP. I don't how long is was leaking prior to that. Fast forward a couple years later the corners are starting to bubble. I am assuming this what caused the cab corners to rust.
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My rear bumper is rusting pretty bad. I have polished several times, and it comes back worse every time. Its less than 2 years old and I have mud flaps. I brought it to the dealer today, and the writer was trying to pass it off as normal.
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I was checking the oil in my truck yesterday. I noticed the passenger side exhaust manifold was flaking rust. I mean flaking bad, big chunks coming off. Even the heat shield was rusted bad enough that it is barely holding on. Looks like in a couple years will need replaced. I have never seen this on my other Fords.
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Have a rusty brake booster? My truck is an 07' with 55k. Brakes work great, but the booster is rusting all over. Should I replace? The lower steering shaft doesn't look so great either.... I'm trying to attach a picture, but I'm having some issues.
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I recently changed the plugs on my 95 Aerostar 4.0L. I noticed the last service person did not replace with proper plugs. The van was missing occasionally.
The passenger side rear plug was rusty. I noticed a small loss of anti-freeze during the past year also. Could this be a lower intake gasket? Have not noticed any anti-freeze in the oil nor any exterior engine leaks.
I recently drove it for 150 miles. Sometimes after start it would miss, other times not. Looking for the type of diagnostic to be done.
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2014 f305 rusting out fast. Ford needs to address the problem and fix these issues on the super duty already on the road
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This will be the second time that i have had to change my antenna, the portal where the ant. goes into the back of radio rusts out so bad that i get no reception. the first go round i had to use #9 klein pliers to remove the antenna not to mention that when i cut the cable in two for easier removal ( behind the glove box), water was literally dripping from where i cut. I checked out the mounting pedestal on the top of the fender and it doesn't seem to me that it could leak but I am thinking that that has got to be where the water is getting in. The moisture was so bad that the head too was loaded with moisture, rust and corrosion inside of it.
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Have a continuing problem with the front brake pad antirattle clips? Mine keep bending or rusting and prevent the pats from retracting. I live in a high salt area but still I shouldn't have all the problems I do.
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I am sick that my 2008 F250 with 107K miles is exhibiting signs of rust this spring.. While filling up the tank saw a bit of a bubble on the left side top of the wheel well. Another one on the passenger side. I've had the truck since new and have tried to keep it as clean as I can being that it is a daily driver in the rust belt. Certainly thought that I'd get more than 6 years before the rot showed up. Don't remember my 1999 F350 exhibiting that, but it was a dually and had the fiberglass fenders that might have hidden it.
Took it to the local body shop and he told me to get used to it, just a matter of time around here. He said he could work on it, but it would never be fixed, rust would eventually return. He suggested sand blasting myself, repairing as I could, oiling the inside behind the tail lights and bolting on some Bushwacker flares. Having driven Ford trucks all my 40 years of driving I'm going to be looking at Dodges next time I buy.
Drivers side ...
Passenger side ...
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Having issues with rear wheel wells rusting, mine is a 2004 f-250. I wax at least 10 times a yr. Can't believe I have rust there...
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it's got these spots and they are rusting. It's only on one side of the window and no where else on the car. Will post pictures shortly. I have never heard of a window rusting. But it looks like some sort of coating on the window that is rusting but when I removed the rust it goes below the surface of the glass.
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I have an '04 Saab and have been a little concerned about it's corrosive future. In the last year I've noticed many tiny rust specs all over my car. I've always kept up with washing it, especially in Winter but nonetheless the problem seems to be getting worse. What should I do? Is there a shop I should go to to have it coated with a rust treatment or get it painted? Is that sort of thing expensive? Is there a way I could have prevented this?
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I have some rust building on the heat shield of my cats on my 2001 Nissan Frontier.. I had a weld done to keep it from rattling after replacing the OEM muffler. It there anything I can put on it to retard the rusting process on the shield and will that affect my emissions?
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I have a 2002 Kia Sedona mini van and one of the issues with this van is that the metal cooling lines that run from the engine area back to the back of the van heating core rust away and have to be replaced. Can you just cut those away and put like a u joint on it so that the anti freeze doesn't go back there and thus reducing the huge cost of replacing those lines? Yes I know that means no heat in the back of the van but I don't use the heat back there now and haven't through this past horrible winter. I am just trying to reduce the cost I am looking at for this repair that I know I am going to have to address in the coming months.
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My Ultra white IS350 is 15 months old, and when I took out the screws to my license plate today, I noticed a little bit of rust on the mounts (where the screws would go into).
I believe this is a pretty common issue for all cars - essentially, the mount was sprayed with body paint, but the paint would be stripped when you put a screw in. It's just a matter of time before that happens.
I am just concerned it would rust through my trunk if I continue to leave it.
FYI: I already use stainless steel screws
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