Ford Excursion :: 2002 V10 Suddenly Stopped And Dies While Driving On Sand
Dec 1, 2016
My 02 6.8 v10 4x4 4.30 X has a big problem. I was driving on sand and all of the sudden it stopped and dies. Had no trans fluid and a dead battery. After paying $450 to get it off the beach i filled the trans fluid and got a jump and it runs. When put in gear wether in 4WD or not it does NOT move. Only when put in neutral and pulled ... red dot is pavement, blue is where i got to, star is where i broke down on the way out...smh
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I have a 2002 ford excursion. I know they have cali emissions. It runs fine then suddenly dies while driving. We've replaced the glow plug switch and relay. Neither one fixed the problem. we washed the motor a while back and it fried the programmer wiring.
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I have a 2002 Celica GT.
It was driving fine for a few months after buying it and now all of a sudden it will just die while driving down the road. It will start and idle fine for hours but after about 15 minutes of driving it down the road it will just die without any kind of notification. It will start back up and run again after I let it sit for 15-20 minutes but will do it all over again but if I try starting it right after it dies, it will start and immediately die again. The only codes it is reading is the #1 spark plug is misfiring, but it has been that way since I bought the car.
I was told to clean the O2 sensor and throttle body, which I did and it ran fine for a few days but is back to dying randomly.
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I also tried jump starting - get same same result. Engine cranks, turns, and then sounds like it is just about to start up normally but it just dies completely. It seems to want to start but just can accelerate the engine high enough to keep it running. Almost like it's flooded on a carb motor.. 2000 V10..
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I was driving my sport trac when it suddenly died on me. We are leaning toward the fuel pump. But is there any other causes for fuel to not get to the engine? We changed the fuel filter out already...
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The water level is up, the heater hose is hot on both sides of the heater hose bypass valve, the MtrCrft thermo is pretty new, but it blows cool air out the vents even after a half hour of driving. It was working great last week and then nothing. I guess you can see the blend door moving if you pop the glove box out?..........haven't tried that.
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Frightening thing here. Finding sand/dirt in threads of my plugs! Not sure how such a thing would happen.
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2002 LeSabre Dies suddenly (usually or always at idle -- not 100% sure) and always restarts immediately. Not the fuel system - fuel pressure good, pump replaced. Already replaced the Idle air control (IAC) valve. Recent tune-up. No DTC codes. Should I suspect the crank sensor, or would that throw a trouble code? What else could cause this -- PCM?
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I was driving tonight and all of a sudden my car dies and wont start back up. I try to go and start it and only thing that happens is it clicks once. Battery is around one year old and the alternator was replaced with it. Lately there has been a rattle in the engine bay and i couldnt figure out what was going on. I tried to replace the intake manifold bushings with OEM ones and no luck with that.
I was going to replace with oversized bushing by friday but I don't think that's going to happen now. Whether it could be the starter or if the timing chain could have broke or if the engine could have seized. *(BTW the car is a 2003 Jetta GLI with a 2.8l 24v vr6 6 speed manual.)*
Last time i did an oil change was around 50 miles ago. 6 quarts of 0w-40 mobil 1 full synthetic.
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My 02 Ex V10 suddenly lost its power steering. And I mean completely, so it was a bitch to get it home. There are no leaks and the reservoir is full. It makes no noise at all when I try and turn the wheel, so it does not even sound like the pump is working at all. Does this sound like the pump or the gear box? Is there an easy way to tell before I just order the pump and hope that is the problem?
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I have a 2002 Excursion 7.3 4x4 and when it will start is runs for about 20 min then turns off. When I go to start the truck again the theft light flashes rapidly and the glow plug light never turns off. I have tried reprogramming the key to the PATS by leaving it turned for 30 minute then turning it back then starting and that worked for a few times but it doesn't anymore. Additionally I used to be able to take the terminals off the batteries for 20 minutes or so and then it would start after re connecting them but now I have to leave the batteries off for like 24 hours then it will start fine 1 time run for 20 minutes and die and won't start all over again.
I have a snap on solus pro I am borrowing to figure it out but am not very familiar with it, I can only find codes P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid circuit (but mine is 4x4) and U1262 data fault for J1850 there is nothing pulling up under the PATS option in the scanner so I don't know whats wrong or where to even begin, it just shuts off.. The truck runs great till it shuts off, buzz test in the scanner doesn't do anything and neither does the glow plug test. When the truck dies is just turns off like someone turned the key off, no running rough or anything first, I am pretty sure the computer is shutting off the injectors and then locking me out.
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I've been having some problem with my 2002 Camry lately. It started when I was exiting off highway waiting at a stop light when my car just suddenly stop, while the car was still in drive. The battery light, engine light, and oil light came even though the music was still playing. So I put the car to park, turn the key to completely turn off the car and restart the car.
At first it sound like the car was going to start but as I turn the key and keep holding it for the car to start all the way, it just die again. I try again but this time I step on the gas pedal at the same time I turn the key and after two or three press on the gas pedal, the car work and all the light was off. Everything was fine. This would happen every other day and I would do the same thing to it but don't know why this is happening.
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I bought my 2007 Santa Fe with 112,000 miles in April. It ran fine until about a month ago. When I turned the key to aux, the radio and lights came on but when I tried to start it I lost all power. Turning the key off and back on had no effect, it acted like the battery was dead. I opened the hood and noticed the pos cable was loose on the terminal. As soon as I touched it I heard a click, the security light started blinking and it started fine.
A week later as I was driving on the highway the electricity started blinking in and out and the car would shutter as it lost and regained power, then eventually died completely but the radio was still on. I got to the shoulder and tried to turn it back on but even though the radio and lights worked, nothing happened when I tried to start it. I lodged a matchstick between the pos terminal and the cable to make sure the connection was tight and it started. Driving home the power would occasionally stutter when I hit a bump but it never died completely.
I used a battery and alternator tester that plugs into the cigarette lighter and both registered as fine. I've driven it to work, about 2 miles, several times since and the power sometimes cuts out at bumpy parts of the road and it has died completely twice while sitting still at a light. The clock doesn't reset when it dies so, knowing nothing about electrical systems, I would guess that the electricity isn't being entirely lost. Every time it dies the radio and lights still come on but I have to get out and jiggle the pos cable to get it to restart. While driving the battery and seat belt lights flash randomly. A friend told me to try removing the pos cable while it's running and that if it died, it was probably the alternator. Tried it and the engine died immediately. Don't know what this means since the alternator tested fine.
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I decided to take the day off and run out to Melbourne Beach...there are a couple of places off A1A with beach access - but there is some mighty deep sand too...
I locked the differential, jacked it up and turned off the ESP...didn't have any problems at all - but there was a moment...
I guess that the best advice for getting through sand is to keep up your momentum and turn in little bits. I guess I could have deflated the tires a bit, but I'd like your opinions...
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My 02 F150 4.6 4x2 shuts off while driving - usually when I am coasting, but also at varied speeds, even highway speeds. The motor dies, the gauges all go to 0, and the odometer shows ------ I have to shift to N and coast...if I try to re-start it just turns over and over...gauges still all at 0.
I have determined that if I reach behind the fuse panel and wiggle the wiring harness, my gauges will come back and I will be able to re-start it.
I noticed yesterday, that after it did this and I got it re-started, the red 'Theft' light was blinking rapidly. A clue, perhaps?
I have tightened the 10mm bolt that holds the two wire bundles into the back of the cabin fuse box (by driver's door).
Where to start? I have crawled under the dash, looking for loose, chaffed or otherwise odd looking wire, but so far no good.
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I was driving my 2002 CRV with 86K miles on it, when suddenly the A/C stopped working and there was a burning smell. Immediately stopped A/C and took it to my local dealer, Honda. They say the compressor blew metal debris throughout the A/C system, destroying it completely. I am, of course, furious that a low mileage Honda in excellent condition would require this kind of repair. Should I have it done? Should I find another mechanic and get aftermarket parts?
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Was driving the other day then suddenly fog lights stopped working, I changed the bulbs still wont work, so I checked the fuses to make sure all was ok, and everything was perfect. And now I am completely lost, have no clue what to check to make them working..
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I was driving on the highway in my 2001 jetta (332000 km) on the cruise control yesterday and suddenly it just started slowing down and stopped. Putting my feet in the gas did nothing . Before stopping completely the battery light came on. After won't start anymore, just making a sound like it is trying but turn in the butter. To be honest the check engine has been on for a while but we are pretty sure that is the glow plugs because it is a recurrent problem... Nothing else light up and there was no sound or smoke.
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This started about 6 weeks ago. While sitting at a stop light the motor cut out. After some research I replaced the cps. Truck ran fine for about 3 weeks, then shut down again while pulling into the driveway of a store. Replaced the cps again (this time with a ford one). Ran fine for another 3 weeks, then shut down again on the freeway. No CEL on any occasion.
It's just like someone turned the key off. No rough idling at all. No smoke during starting or driving. When it shuts down, it will not start again for 20-30 minutes, no matter how many time you crank it. It will just turn over, no sputter. When it fires up again there is no air in the lines either, it runs like nothing happened.
I'm now thinking it might be a ipr issue...is there a way I can check myself or does it need to go to the mechanic? Or is it something completely different? This is my mother in laws daily driver, 178k. She does not drive on the freeway, 80% of the mileage is city driving. What could be going on?
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My truck is an 02 F250 7.3 with 280,000+ miles on it, so I wouldn't be surprised if I might have a number of things going wrong. It runs pretty good, but is still far from 100%, at least up to my standards. So the problem has been going on for the last two or three weeks and got worse today, and there were a few things leading up to it as well. I'll start off with the first thing that happened that I think might be related. It was about 6 months ago, my buddy and I were putting my new headlights in.
It was parked in his garage and we backed it out a little bit to try and adjust them. It was sitting there idling for a minute or two and just shut off or almost stalled out. Tried to restart it and it wouldn't start, tried multiple times to no avail. It acted similar to when I had glow plug troubles when I first got the truck, it would just crank and crank, but never actually kick over and start, along with putting white smoke out the exhaust. Ended up waiting about a half hour and then the truck fired right up with no problems after that, so I didn't think much of it.
Then fast forward to last week to when something similar happened. Started it up after sitting for a few days, started right up, idled for a few seconds and then just shut off. Started it back up ran for a second and died again. Tried a third time with the same result. Fourth time fired right up again and stayed running, let it run for a few minutes and was fine. Also along with this, there was a bad squeaking coming from the front of the truck, like what a belt would sound like. I have recently replaced the belt because it was squeaking and actually got chewed up and almost shredded completely apart.
So not sure why it is squeaking again, but not sure if this could be related or not. Then took it back to my dorm room to get my stuff, and then made it the hour or so drive home from school, without issue. Even went to a few stores before I went home, and shut the truck off and started it back up multiple times, again with no issues. When I drove back earlier this week it was fine until I got there and put it in park. It idled for few seconds and then cut out for a second, but then idled back up and continued to run fine. It has done that a few times as well. So it will do it on a cold start or after already fully warmed up.
Then it got worse today. Again had trouble starting it cold, same as what I explained early. Except second time cranking it wouldn't start at all, then on the third crank it started up and stayed running. But on the drive home is when it got worse. About 5 or 10 minutes into my drive, was just cruising doing at about 45 or 50, and truck just shut off, died/stalled out. It cut out and shut off for a second or two and then started itself back up and continued on like nothing happened. It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened, I was waiting for something like that to happen, but still wasn't quite ready for it.
The truck acted just like it would before you start it, with the key on, dash lights worked and the radio still worked. It did this 4 more times in similar ways, would die and then start back up, at various speeds and at roughly 5 or so minute intervals. I decided to just keep going as long as the truck would start and stay running, hoping to make it home. It did it a fifth time and this time the truck completely shut off and wouldn't restart itself. It was hard to see, as I was watching a few different things at one time, but I think it tried to restart, I noticed the tach bounce between 200-400 RPMS and then die. So I had to pull over and then restart it, fired up and drove fine. That was about half way home, and I made it the rest of the way home without any more problems.
So obviously I'm wondering what would be causing the truck to do this? I've done some reading and have a couple ideas, but not really for sure on anything. I was thinking maybe the CPS, I think it can cause a no start issue. Could ICP or the ICP sensor have something to do with it? I was also thinking maybe something fuel related, such as fuel pressure or a bad fuel pump. Any of those sound to be on the right track?
I have the torque pro app, but not exactly sure how to use it yet, and also just got access to my Uncle's Snap-on scanner, so I ran some tests and pulled some codes. How to more utilize these tools in diagnostics. I did get a few codes, but I'm not exactly sure how they might be related. The codes are pulled are:
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Circuit Fault. Just cleaned that out as well as the tube about a year ago, but I guess could be clogged again or has gone bad.
P1274 Cylinder 4 (E) High to Low Side Open. Did some reading and figured out that this could be UVCH related. At the same time, about a year ago, did new injector O-rings as well as all new Motorcraft UVCH's, so can't imagine that one is bad. Or that one could be loose, I would have guessed it would have happened more when I first did them, not a year later, but who knows.
Also pulled P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid Circuit Fault. Not sure if this is related at all, but also not sure what it means either. I read that it could be ESOF system related, which I do have, but I have manual lockout hubs, so maybe that's why it throws the code.
Also a few things that may or may not be related, but I think worth noting. Ever since I've had the truck the check engine light will pop on and off sometimes. It will do it on a cold start or, when I first start driving and its not fully warmed up yet. It does it most when the engine is still cold, and it almost never comes on once the truck is fully warmed up, but has came on and off more frequently lately. When driving, it will only stay on for a few seconds and more often when I'm lugging the engine or at lower rpms, and will commonly shut off if I let off the throttle.
I don't think it really comes on at higher rpms. I also have a slight oil leak in the valley of the engine, seems to maybe be coming from the front of the motor. Nothing too serious, leaves a small puddle where I park, loses enough to be at the add mark, a little before an oil change. Changed the oil about 1500 miles ago and have been able to notice a slight drop in oil level. Also I have changed the fuel filter in the last 500 miles.
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I have a 02 ex 118,000 on it, not a every day driver, mostly weekend and camper towing. The truck was running great, stopped at a light and the engine started hesitating, the od light was flashing, and then it died.. started right back up no od light, but was still hesitating/missing took it to a local shop, they hooked up a scanner and said that several coils were misfiring. My question, replace all coils? go with oem coils, or aftermakert?
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