Ford Excursion :: 2002 V10 Occasionally Misfires And Will Stall At Idle
Jul 18, 2011
2002 V10 72k, starts fine, runs fine, occasionally misfires and will stall at idle. So far.
Replace boots
Replaced Air Filter
Tested resistance in all coil packs all within value
CODE P0720 - OSS (replaced, knew it wasn't it but...)
Seafoamed truck (very anticlimatic)
Cleaned MAS
Headed to clean IAC next.
Still has the original plugs, any reason to change them yet?
Does the IAC have a function when engine is at temperature? Getting ready to bite the bullet on AE. Any first hand experience with AE? I STFF and couldn't find anything.
I'm about 90% convinced it's a bad COP, but I'm not about to buy 10 of them on I think. Also not inclined to switch each COP with a known good one. I'm hoping the AE will show misfires and pending codes.
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I just picked up this 2005 Elantra last month. She runs GREAT - except after filling. Then she will occasionally sputter or sometimes stall during idle. Otherwise, if tank is below 3/4 (approximately), she runs fine.
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I have a 2002 4.6L FX4. When I run the A/C for an extended period (say 15-20+ minutes), it will start to cough and sputter and eventually just die. It will restart but run rough and cough, sputter, die.
If I turn off A/C and let it set a while, it runs fine. No check engine light. Possible EGR problem????
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After a long trip from Houston to Dallas, my vehicle started to ride rough and eventually die on idle. It seems to idle fine, but then die after the first minute. I am getting code P306 and others all dealing with random misfires and misfires on ALL cylinders. The troubleshooting steps I have taken so far to no avail are:
(1) Replaced spark plugs with pre-gapped iridium
(2) Checked ignition coils
(2) Checked all vacuum hoses and air intake leaks
(3) Changed air filter(not a big deal)
(4) Removed and cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner thoroughly
(5) Checked the intake manifold for leaks and did not find any.
(6) Computer PCM checked for updates and issues at dealer
The dealer said it needed new fuel injectors, which seemed kind of fishy due to the following symptom:
The car runs GREAT at highway speeds, but it is unable to maintain an idle for an extended period of time and dies due to misfires. I hear a chugging in the engine sometimes.
Due to these symptoms, I self diagnosed this as a fuel regulator?
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My question is what is the possible cause of my car trying to stall when it idles? Here is the scenario. There was no problem with the car this morning. I was almost out of gas and filled it up. After filling up about two miles down the road when I can to a stop sign or had to slow to an idle in traffic the car seemed like it wanted to stall. When I was driving at and speed other then idle it seemed fine. When I left work tonight the same thing. but this time when I got close to home the check engine light came on. I did check the gas cap and that seems fine. I was wondering what the possible cause could be.
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I have a 2002 passat. It is a 1.8T. I have a stock turbo, it has a full aftermarket front mount hooked up. It also has a blow off valve. OK my issue is that I believe it runs too rich. When I drive the idle will drop and the car will stall out. It has its good days and bad days. What can I do to make this not happen? Would I have to have a recirculate the air flow again? Should I have everything stock again? Would anything else stop this happening? As well as how much PSI does this car stock suss posed to push? I have a boost meter that only reads max 5 psi. Should it be more? I am new to VW and brought the car off a friend.
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When I start my S60, it runs extremely rough and will eventually stall. I do this over and over . . try and put it in gear and it will go a bit, run very rough, and will stall out. After a few minutes, something kicks in and it runs perfectly. If I don't try to drive, and sit with it idling, it runs very rough and I have a difficult time getting the rpms up. Then, the engine will suddenly race for a bit and everything is fine. It is very periodic in nature, doesn't matter if the engine is cold or not. It can sit over night and be fine, or do it, I can run around all day without problems and then suddenly it decides not to start up and run. The temperature outside doesn't seem to be a factor.
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I have a 2012 5.0 with about 1500 miles on it. I have noticed occasionally on start up that it feels like it is trying to stall? I give it a little gas and it goes away.
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I recently bought a 2006 STX with the 4.6 engine. Occassionally, when stopping at a light, the engine will stall. I took it to the dealer where I bought it and he put it on the computer and found that once on a test drive the RPM's dropped to 490, but it did not stall. He said everything checked out fine and thought it might be a carbon build up, since the truck only has 27,000 miles on it and was driven only around town. He suggested a couple of tanks of higher octane fuel and a fuel additive to remove the carbon.
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1992 Buick Park Avenue - Base
This morning my serpentine belt tore and slapped everything for a few minutes and I'll be receiving a new one tomorrow or the day after, but that's not the trouble, I just feel it's related as that is when this problem started. In the last 2 months I have replaced the Cam sensor and interrupter, timing chain and tensioner were in good shape. replaced the ICM, coils, wires, and plugs and used dielectric grease on all connectors, including the cam sensor and new crank sensor, also replaced the harmonic balancer, fuel pump, filter, pressure regulator, PCV valve, alternator, and a new pigtail is coming for the cam sensor as some of the wires had bare spots. This plug is currently taped and shoved out of the way, not plugged in, and has been for a week, so I doubt it's relevant.
This issue is : The car fires up fine, but has great difficulty idling and stalls too often to drive after a few minutes. At higher RPMs it only misses or misfires occasionally. With the serpentine belt off, the car idles much smoother. Tonight I plan to try tightening the harmonic balancer again, running the with MAP sensor unplugged, again with the exhaust O2 sensor removed.
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Since having dealer work on my brakes: replaced booster and brake light switch. While at the deal the changed all the fluids. Now my EX has been intermittently stalling when stopped in drive with AC running. When it stalled the OD light was flashing. Now we have noticed that the EX is sputtering when stopped while in drive and may stall. Also, itermittently seeing the the ABS light come on. Today it stalled and now the CEL is ON.
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My wife's 98 LeSabre will occasionally cut out or stall. It usually happens at low speeds and she thinks it may be more frequently on a right hand turn. The engine can always be restarted immediately. There is no other symptom, no check engine light on when running. The car runs well and has ~125000 miles. Sounds like an intermittent connection or short but where?
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My 2000 Excursion, 6.8L V10 misfires when I try to start it, after a rain storm, and for the longest time, I could not figure out what was going on. After much use of a garden hose, to make rain, I found the rear two cylinder wells, on passenger side fill with water, due to a design defect in the engine hood that causes run off down that side of the engine. I visited with a mechanic, and was told that the hood design is common to a lot of the F series trucks, and the 8 and 10 cylinder engines are prone to the water buildup in the passenger rear spark plug wells. I am going to try to put a shield of some sort, around the two cylinder wells, to divert the water.
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Finally had a chance to pull the coils for inspection, and give the truck some very needed plugs. anyways, since i got it, the truck on initial start will rev itself up to about 3k rpms. it will almost always die after that rev. with the MAF sensor disconnected, it will rev to about 2k rpms, and the idle, if you can call it that, around 1k rpms. it will buck, jump, spit, burp, chug, pop, blow, and phew noises the whole time. I can rev the truck at this point but the throttle repsonse is poor. it does rev with a slight misfire, but no popping like what it does at idle. the exhaust has been dropped before the cat, so i know its not a plugged cat. i feel it could possibly be a sticking idle control valve allowing air past behind the MAF sensor causing this crazy scenerio
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So on Christmas day I turned on my truck and all was well. I had family over and we were going up to my range to do some Christmas day target shooting. I let it warm up for about 20 minutes we then loaded up and headed out.
When I locked the hubs I soon found out my 4WD was not working? Due to the cold? It worked fine last time out and now not at all. I decided to forge ahead in 2WD, Sure enough we got stuck in deep snow. I had to gun the engine off and on to get out and as soon as I broke free (CHECK ENGINE) appeared for the first time ever. Worst Christmas ever!
The truck is running fine, full power and no irregular noise from the engine. So I ran the test and P0303, P0307 misfires on cylinder 3 and 7 appeared. This whole post is about me doing a full tune up this spring the truck is parked since Christmas and will stay parked until I do a full tune up.
New Plugs.
New Wires.
New Coils.
New oil filter and oil. Changed last year with less than 2000 miles but changing anyways.
Flush radiator and add new radiator fluid.
Clean air filter (Aftermarket, It is washable).
Is there anything I'm missing? Also, any tips on figuring out the 4WD issue?
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My 2002 Ford Ranger (6 cylinder) got three misfires within minutes after leaving the house this morning (#4,5,and 6). There's been 3 solid days of very dense fog and drizzle here, so I know it's the moisture because it was fine until then. My question is, do I replace the plugs AND wires for these three, or can they be saved? I had a tune up 2 years ago, but don't know the brand of plugs that were used...
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Ok so I have the 2009 f150 4.6l 2wd. Have random misfire codes. Horrid idle. I replaced all of the spark plugs, coil packs, and even the injectors on 1/3/4. Still codes nothing is better. I'm thinking maybe an intake manifold leak,? I see no real signs but I do hear that little pop pop pop. Now I have a gasket kit for it but I see you can order complete manifold kits with thermostat and gaskets on amazon for like 60 bucks more. The issue is I see none that fit my truck. Is it the same as the mustang? Hate to blow more cash as its adding up.
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So, I have a 97 f150 with a 4.6 that idles low, around 5-600 all the time, and stalls in warm weather only. I just cleaned the IAC to no avail..
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Long time Ex owner. This is my second 2000, 4wd, Limited, 6.8 V-10. Just bought this one last month and after two weeks of local driving the following problem showed up:
1. Week of July 5 through 11: With vehicle cold (65*) started and placed in reverse to back out of garage. After slight movement engine stalled like a locked up torque converter or turning ignition off. CEL illuminated. Turned off ignition and restarted. Again in reverse had same stall. Third time no problem but CEL still on. Code is P0720 using "Actron Auto Scanner."
2. Erased Code P0720 (OSS circuit malfunction) and P0307 (Cyinder 7 Misfire Detected). Drove car approx 20 miles without incident. No stumbling, no vibration, no detectable misfire, shifts okay, speedometer okay.
3. Next day with vehicle cold, started to back out of garage and stalled with CEL illuminated and O/D light in shifter blinking. Recycled ignition, started and no O/D light but CEL still illuminated. Vehicle did not stall. Checked code and P0720 set.
4. Replaced OSS on tail shaft of transmission. Same stalling problem with P0720 set.
5. Replaced #7 COP w/aftermarket type to test possibility of bad COP because of earlier P0307 DTC. Same problem exists, first start of the day the vehicle will stall as soon as it starts to move in reverse.
6. Replaced rear ABS sensor. While doing so noticed the ABS sensor wire harness was rubbing the tailpipe and the split, wire conduit was partially melted. Inspected wires (2) within and both appeared okay. Safety wired the harness away from the tailpipe.
7. Let the vehicle sit awhile. Outside Air Temp 84*. Started, placed in reverse, moved a couple of feet and engine stalled and O/D light on steady. Recycled ignition and started again, backed out with no stall or warning lights. No CEL on. Drove 10 miles without incident.
8. Allowed vehicle to cool, started and attempted to back out of garage. Engine stalled, CEL illuminated and O/D light flashing, code P0720.
9. Sunday morning 12 July: 71*, Allowed vehicle to idle in P in garage for 10 minutes before trying to back out. Vehicle did not stall. CEL still on from previous day, no O/D light. Erased P0720 code. Vehicle operating normally.
10. Sunday Noon 12 July: 85*, Started, placed in reverse, backed out and no stall or CEL or O/D light.
After considerable research online at ford-trucks.com found P0720 is a common problem but not easily diagnosed. In most cases the gremlin is COPs and or deteriorated plug boots but in this situation the engine appears to run smoothly and the failure/errors only show up when the vehicle is moved in reverse gear after a cold startup. Once it stalls then restarted it runs fine.
Made a quick check of alternator for failed diode using DVM since I don't have a scanner. Checked okay for voltage and AC ripple. I do have an appointment on Wednesday with my local auto repair shop for troubleshooting. Will have them do continuity check between OSS and PCM and an AC ripple test. Does this sound like an electrical circuit problem or internal transmission problem? Want to make myself as smart as possible when I talk with the techs.
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In the last few months, I've been having misfires at idle. I didn't realize at first what the vibration was, since I had cams installed over the summer and had my flywheel replaced a couple of weeks ago. I have replaced the plugs and coil packs and for a couple of days, it ran fine. Tonight, they started up again, mostly in a single cylinder. I swapped out coil packs - no change. Switched plugs between two cylinders - the misfire followed the plug. Swapped in an old plug - things improved, misfires went from 2-3 per second to maybe one every 5-10 seconds. Few to no misfires when revs go up. My battery is 5 years old, could that be an issue? Wire harnesses - do they go bad?
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