Ford Excursion :: 2002 - Transmission Quit All At Once?
Jan 14, 2015
2002 Excursion 7.3 4x4 160,000 miles trans rebuilt @100,000.
Yesterday while driving on the freeway our Ex all of the sudden felt like it was in neutral. Coasted to the side of the freeway, it would not move in any gear including reverse. There were no bad noises/sounds or anything like that.
The Ex ran great before this, with no signs of the trans going out. My question is what could cause the trans to go out all at once, sure doesn't seem like something was wearing out.
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I have a 2002 excursion xlt 4x4 v10
The door locks quit working. The previous owner did the tin foil repair... I replaced the four door actuators today. Now all of the doors lock and unlock on the manual buttons. The fob doesn't work on any door.. when i try and use the door code pad, the locks go into a cycle.. the keep trying to operate by themselves. I had to disconnect the battery to get it to stop. I can't find the door lock relays. I have most of the dash out. Where these are?
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The ruck is a 2002 Ex limited v10 4x4. The cruise worked fine till my wife drove the truck! the green cruise light blinked a few times, now, there is nothing.I'm no good at electrical issues.
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My Excursion is stuck in 2wd. It worked one morning, then it didn't that same afternoon.
I've checked all fuses that resemble a related fuse in the fuse box.
I've replaced the dash switch, Transfer case shift motor and ESOF/GEM module behind the glove box. I've swapped around the relays under the hood on the drivers side fender well.
I ran a hot & ground to the 2-wire plug on the x-fer case shift motor to have it move the ex back into 2wd (replacing the shift motor required me to manually put it in 4hi with a wrench).
At this point, I'm thinking it's a wiring issue? Where to go next?
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My 05 has always had good air conditioning front and back but around three weeks ago it quit blowing cold. I found all the 134 had leaked out through a pin hole in the aluminum line that runs down the back of the engine to the rear ac unit. I removed the line and brazed the pin hole. So I reinstalled the line, put a vacume on the system for 20 mins then let it sit for another 20 to make sure I had no leaks. All seemed good so I re charged the system. Now my front blows nice and cold but the rear is warm?
My pressures at idle are around 40psi low side and 200ish on the high side when the engine is warmed up and the ambeint temp is around 74 f. If I turn it to the warmest setting for the rear it gets noticeably hotter so I'm thinking the blend door is working properly?? I've read that the thermal expansion valves can give some trouble so I pulled the jack and cubby out to gain access to it. I tried tapping on it with no gains. Also the top left line seems to be pretty cold coming out of it too the evaporator but the line coming out of the evap is room temp. I was very careful not to let any junk get into the lines when they were apart for the line repair but I'm thinking maybe some junk has plugged up the TXV?
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I have checked the fuse number 38 and it's fine, and I've also checked the bulbs and they look good. Where else do I look to check for problems with my reverse lights not working? I just had my transmission rebuilt, and wondering if a sensor or something went bad?
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I have a set of Tow mirrors off a Laredo on my EX (they are the rounded ones and not square). They have the built in LED Turn Signals and (5 LED) marker lights in them.
The Driver's side marker light has quit working but I still have power to everything in the mirror. It was working but only on 2 of the 5 LED's. Now they are all not working.
Successfully "remove" the LED housing that holds the Turn Signal and Marker lights from the mirrors to repair or replace them? If they are removable, how do they come out? It looks like they just "snap" in place but I'm afraid to pry on them for fear of breaking the plastic leans....
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Tonight my wife and I drove ex to store and out to eat . We got back home and the wife opened the glove box and the radio quit working. And when she closed the box the radio came back on.
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I have a question on my '00 7.3. Cruise control just quit working. From reading the threads/forums I have gotten some ideas, but how about no dash light when turning the key to on? Nothing with the self test also. How can I troubleshoot the switch in the steering wheel? I could also have a bulb out in the cluster, but either way- no cruise function.
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I was going up a little grade a couple days ago and the engine suddenly quit, the temperature and oil light came on, the heat gauge buried on hot, and it threw a code. I pulled over and it was still idling so I made a U-turn but it was in limp mode and would only go about 10 MPH, so I made it home and put water in it so it's good now but it still says service engine soon. What is the code going to say and am going to have to pay to get rid of it. (the light). I have a new cap coming.
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I'm working on a 2003 that the front wiper and sprayer quit working on. The rear wiper and sprayer still work fine. We replaced the multifunction switch and no change. I would like to test the motor before we keep throwing parts at it.
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My 2002 is acting really strange. The a/c quits blowing once you get up to 65 mph or so. It looks to me to be a damper problem, because the temperature stays pretty cool, it just doesn't blow as hard (like, almost not at all). You can hear the fan rip roaring away and it sounds like it is dead heading in the lower part of the passenger side in the climate control system.
I checked all the dampers and they seem to have full range of motion, it is not the main damper that goes between hot and cold, that one works at any speed, the other two seem to be working also, but for some reason whenever i get up to high speeds, the air just poops out. If you slow back down, rotate your climate control from ac to vents and back again, it starts working fine. Speed up again, and it poops back out. Is my vacuum pump out?
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The fuel gauge sender quit the other day so Im replacing the pump assembly. I believe in replacing fuel and ignition related parts with factory equipment. So I was going to get a Ford Motorcraft pump, but my wife checked for one through her work(local parts store). The counter guy found one that said original equipment, called them and was told "It is the same pump that gets installed on the assembly line". Well it came in today and its a Delphi. I was expecting a Ford pump. I associate Delphi with GM and I know GM pumps go out all the time. I know Ford pumps go out too, but I know several people with GMs that have replaced pumps multiple times within 100000 miles. Is Delphi worth taking a chance on?
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I have a 1998 e-250, 5.4 4EOD/4R100. The speedometer quit working and with that came hard shifts. This happened previously (only with a blinking O/D light that time) and I replaced the VSS and then the shift solenoid and filter in the transmission pan. That fixed the issue for about 3 days. There were no codes in the computer.
For a couple days the speedometer would not work until about 15-20 mph, then it would work and shift normally. Now there is no speedo action and the shifts are hard at high RPMs.
In the days leading up to this problem I heard a clicking in the dash, seemingly behind the cluster. Kind of like a turn signal but a bit fainter. Before I go and order a cluster...is there anything else I should be checking for? I have no warning lights, and as I said earlier the O/D light is not blinking. We're converting the van to a camper for our upcoming honeymoon and tracing this down is cutting into the buildout.
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We have a 02 explorer with the 5R55W transmission. We lost power starting up a hill. Now it has nothing. No reverse, forward. Does not even think about moving an inch.
We can not find the dip-stick. Looks like a nut on top of the transmission that you stick a finger into or makeshift dipstick to see if it is topped up. It probably has a cooler on it.
Never noticed a loss of fluid. Nothing at the bottom of the hill...
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I have a '78 F250 4x4 with the 400 engine and C6 automatic tranny in it. All of the sudden, it won't shift as I'm driving. It will go into reverse, drive, 2, 3, when I'm shifting, stays in the same gear all the time while I'm driving.
I was looking around and I found a hose that I think goes from the top of the tranny to...nothing. A friend said it's a vacuum hose that should go from the shift modulator to the carb. Well, I can't figure out where it should connect to the carburetor. There is a hose towards the front of the carb that was cut off and is plugged with a bolt, but that's been like that since I bought the truck 3 years ago. So if that's where the hose SHOULD go, then something else must have caused the tranny to give up on me.
Tranny has been acting fine until now. And I'm sure that hose should go SOMEWHERE!
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I bought a friends 95 f350 7.3 powerstroke with an E4OD. The truck quit driving.the OD light is not blinking. I confirmed the OD light does light up.The trans fluid is full , red and does not smell burnt. I have tried to manually shift 1st and second nothing happens. No reverse. Where should I look for the problem? Solenoid pack, loose valve body, bad relay?
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I have a 2000 Ford E150 Van with 5.4L and auto trans. I left the lights on and ran the battery dead. Charged it back up and now ever since then, when I am going 50-60mph and let off the gas, the van freewheels for a short distance and then acts like it shifts out of overdrive and pulls the van down like its not in freewheel mode anymore. Only has 73K on it.
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I have a 2002 ford taurus. It has the 3.0 ohv engine. The heater has quit working. I recently flushed the coolant system as well as the heater core and replaced the thermostat with no change in the heat situation. It will blow warm air for about 30 to 45 seconds then turns cool .
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I *think* I'm having trouble with the alternator on my 2002 Navigator with the 5.4L DOHC engine.
A year ago in Feb 2014 the alternator quit charging. I thought the headlights were a little dim, but when the radio turned itself off and then the heater fan did the same, I noticed that the alt light was on. Then the engine shut down about 1.5 miles from home.
I'd heard of war stories about rebuilt alternators so I sprang for a brandy new one. I also got a voltmeter that fits in the cigarette lighter so I can monitor the system voltage. All seemed good and the new alternator put out 14.2 to 14.5 volts. Except that the battery never seems to be fully charged. If I check the battery voltage with the engine off it typically reads 11.9 to 12.2 volts. I had Interstate Batteries check the battery. They thought it was okay, but offered to put a new battery in to keep me happy.
Six months and 8,000 miles later I'm up in Ontario back country (on vacation - no tools in the truck) and I notice the engine idles at 900 RPM instead of the usual 650 +/- RPM. Oh-oh, I also notice the volt meter is reading 11.9 volts and drops a tenth about every 10 miles.
Found a shop that was open and they installed a rebuilt alternator and it was putting out 14.2 to 14.5 volts. All was good (except for my wallet!).
Now, here we are six months and 5,000 miles later and the rebuilt alternator is struggling to put out 12.5 volts this afternoon. At a steady 50 MPH with the cruise Control on, the radio, and the heater fan on low, the voltage is bouncing between 12.2 volts and 12.7 volts.
Now to my questions:
1. Shouldn't an alternator put out 14.2 to 14.5 volts all the time? Not just when the alternator is new?
And
2. Is there anything on my truck that could be killing these alternators? Or am I just unlucky in the alternator lottery?
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Just purchased this vehicle. The cruise control and radio controls On the steering wheel will not work. It has aftermarket stereo , not sure if wiring from that would affect cruise control as well as radio controls. Cruise light does not even light on dash. Clockspring? Radio wiring harness?
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