My 2002 Ex 4x4 developed a shudder during breaking. Today while trying to jack it up and put on jack stands. My 2 3/4 ton jack was too weak/short to lift it up to put on stands. I am using 6 ton stands just to lift the front.
So have to get new jack. Keep in mind I don't have a ton of cash for new jack. What size are you all using to get your ex up on stands?
So I just bought a 2004 Ex 4x4 4wd with only 50k from a dealer. While test driving the truck would shake/shudder when braking at 50-70 getting worse if you were going faster, as a condition of the sale they said they would look into it. They did and said it was the tires?? They balanced and rotated and did and alignment. Are they correct? the tires are BFG AT 33x12.5x16.5 on aftermarket rims.
View 11 RepliesSo Ive got slotted rotors with Hawk pads up front. I put them on a while back, pads are probably getting to the end of their life. Rear brakes and rotors were done by the dealer recently. X code springs up front, stock springs with RAS in the rear.
Under quick, semi-hard braking I get some heavy shudder, not sure if its from the from or the rear. I had been thinking it was probably the brakes themselves, and planned on addressing the fronts soon. But then I read something around here about axle wrap under braking, and am now wondering if that's the cause. I am pretty sure that big rubber cone on my rear springs is gone, and I read that that is what prevents axle wrap.
I replaced the pads and rotors on the front end of my 2002 maxima (it had a shudder when braking from speed). By mistake, I did loosen the spindle nut, but re-tightened it. Braking is smooth, but I am plagued by noise. Used CRC on the back of the pads, have pulled the tires/wheels 3-4 times looking for looseness, mistakes, etc…. This is a pretty simple job – right? Even had the front wheel off my other 2002 (yes – I have 2…love this year/model) and compared them.
Did I cause an issue with the loosening and re-tightening of the spindle? Is this just a spline? I have it “wrench” tight and it had not loosened up even with 500 miles driving. There is not any play in the wheels mounted to the axle… What do I need to look at next?
My question is I have a 2002 Excursion 5.4 2wd with 126K on it, I have been chasing a shaking steering wheel while braking at higher speeds 50 mph and up, it is stronger at higher speeds and gets weaker and eventually goes away when slowing under 45ish mph. The shake in the wheel does not pull the truck at all, you can let go and it still stops straight. I have aligned and balanced I know its right I did it myself. I have also replaced steering dampener, and have done a full brake job on the front all new parts everything. Also the steering linkage is tight no slop or play in it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 199 Ford Expedition that started shuddering several months ago. The shudder was the most pronounced when braking, but was also pretty bad when accelerating and letting off the accelerator.I took it to a Nationally recognized service center. They charged me over $1,200 to replace everything associated with my brakes, but the shudder, (although no longer so pronounced when braking), was still there.Their best guess was the “U” joints, but since they had just a little play in them, they weren't sure that that would cause so much shudder.I took it to a Ford dealer. They had it for 3 days, and charged me $366 for a diagnosis that I had 3 different brand name tires, and the All Wheel Drive was having difficulty keeping the wheels in sync.The problem seems to be most pronounced when letting up on the accelerator Also pronounced when accelerating, not as much so as when letting off the accelerator, but when cruising steadily with my foot on the accelerator, it nearly goes away.
View 2 RepliesThe truck is a new to me 99 f250 7.3. The problem occurred before doing the brakes, and after. The front brakes had new pads and calipers(rotors appeared to be in good condition) while the rears got New rotors, calipers, pads. The persisting problem is a really bad brake shudder that seems to be getting worse. It only occurs below about 5-10mph when braking. on this trip back to school there is a hill with a stop sign at the bottom where i should have rolled forward when i let my foot off the brake. This didn't happen.
It almost seemed as if the tires(meaty 35in dick cepek crushers) where rubbing and catching on something. but we checked and it didn't seems as if they were, though they do come somewhat close to the bumper. Im not even sure if its brakes or what it is, a friend of mine said possibly the hubs, but what can i do to pinpoint it? I wanna try loading down the front with something to simulate the drop when braking and see if the tires do indeed hit as when going to a rolling stop with only a little braking it doesn't do it. Any other things to check?
So my 07 with 125k miles has had new rotors for about 50k miles or so, but for a while now when the brakes get hot it gets a violent shudder on braking at highway speeds....the odd part to me is nothing at lower speeds, and not always at higher speeds....do I just have warped rotors again? The rest of the front end I good and tight....
View 9 RepliesSo I bought my R with 9000 miles on it, and I noticed a little bit of shudder when braking. For some reason it is starting to get a little worse.....and I haven't been bagging on it. Really, warped rotors....at 9k.
View 24 RepliesI got a phaeton v8, I feel a big shudder in the whole car while I have an amount of pressure on the brakes. for example: when approaching a red traffic light soft braking: no shudder, half braking: shudder and when hard braking the shudder is gone again. what could be the problem?
View 24 Replies2008 F250 Crew Cab 5.4, 79K miles, had new brake pads installed at 40K miles. Recently, I noticed front end shudder and some pedal pulsation while braking. It started kind of sudden. My first thought was a warped rotor.
When I took things apart, I found passenger side front rotor was cracked and the caliper pistons were rusted and falling apart, the old pads were only worn about half way. My thoughts on a bad rotor were confirmed, and then some.
I replaced the broken caliper, both front rotors, installed new pads on all four wheels, and bled the brakes. To my surprise, the brake shuddering did not go away. I'm stumped.
On our trip to Daytona this weekend I noticed a vibration/shudder between 45-55mph. Above and below that range it doesn't happen. Dont feel it in steering wheel or pedal. Does it in both 3rd and OD. Got under truck and driveshaft doesn't move at all. Just got those new tires put on a couple weeks ago. Don't remember this vibration before that.
Just checked tire pressure - front right 48 psi. All the rest have about 45 psi, would that do it? I have a shudder in brakes from stops above 45 mph I'm assuming warped rotors, could that do it?
2010 Camry LE 4 Cylinder (~76,000 miles)
I purchased new tires for my Camry at a mileage of about 70,000 (~11/2015). I do mostly city driving. A few months ago I sometimes started noticing a steering column shudder upon braking when traveling at higher speeds (~50+ mph). I read on the web that this type of shudder is typically caused by warped rotors.
I was considering getting a front brake job (new rotors + pads), but decided to get a tire balance/rotation. It was reported that the right front tire was out of balance and that now all four tires are in balance. After the Balance/Rotation, the problem was still there but not as bad (Shudder reduced by at least 50% over what was experienced before the balance/rotation).
I went to a brake shop and discussed the problem and they said that they suspect that there may still be a problem with proper tire balancing. They recommended a second opinion on whether or not the tires were properly balanced. They did not explain 'second opinion' so I went to where the tires were balanced two weeks earlier (Discount Tire) and they did a free balance check and reported that all four tires are still balanced.
Basically, I have no detectable shudder at less than ~50 mph. All rotors and pads are the original ones that came with the car when it was new.
I have an '09 Avalon with 34K miles. On braking we get a shudder. It's especially noticeable on gentle braking. I am pretty sure this is due to the brake rotors being warped or whatever the correct term is. Are these covered under warranty? I'm a skeptic and I feel sure the dealer will try and blame the tires but they are wearing evenly and are rotated every 5K. The ride is smooth when not braking so tire balance should not be an issue.
View 7 RepliesI just bought a 2007 Sonata V6 (GL or GLS). Before buying the car, the last owner had the rear brakes "serviced" because the mechanic said the brakes were "sticking" - charged the old owner $300 for it. When I am on the highway and I brake, the rear brakes shudder. Do you think the shudder is because the rear brakes are still sticking, or because it needs new rotors?
View 5 RepliesPicked up my MK6 GTI DSG last Saturday. I have noticed a slight shudder when braking and coming to a gentle stop. At first I thought it may be the brakes bedding in so I kept it over the weekend. By today there's still no change. Is it normal for DSG transmission stop like this? Because I have never driven DSG transmission.
View 11 RepliesI got a 2006 Solara SLE. while braking from highway speeds, the steering wheel shakes VIOLENTLY. city driving its not noticable. cruising the car is silky smooth. The one front caliper was sticking and i replaced pads, pins, rotor. Still shakes. i tried swapping pins as one pin has a sleeve at the tip and i didnt remember which one went where. i did notice the pin with no sleeve fits loosely. the rotor is AZ Duralast brand. the car has 200k trouble free with no suspension work ever done.
I am lost what to do and need to make a long trip coming up. I was going to try in order- replace other rotor, spin the one rotor and replace guide pin with a sleeved one, then do lateral run out test/lathe, alignment, then if that dosnt work a stick of dynamite. Iheard a bad tie rod or ball joint can cause this, i find it unlikely as it would probably shake all the time. Other small issue is a loud thunk in the rear when it hits bumps. Rear swaybar mounts?
I just recently bought a 2000 excursion 7.3 diesel. I'm new to diesel but learning. So far I've installed a new drop in filter in my airbox. Cut out the plastic behind the grill for cold ram air into the intake. I've done the FPR mod and cleaned out the exhaust back pressure tube. And last but not least I installed an Edge Evolution 2 programmer running stage 3 with timing advanced 2 degrees. Nothing else to the custom settings other than what stage 3 provided. Here is my problem. On the freeway at 65-75mph cruising with the cruise control on, the truck starts to shudder. I suspect my TC lockup is going out but not sure. So I wanted to test it buy installing a manual lockup switch. So I installed the switch running a wire from the plug going into the transmission on the purple with yellow wire using a saddle tap to a switch to part of the dash frame under the dash. Went to test out the switch and nothing happened.
As y'all and other forum's have described I should feel something and the od light should start flashing. I get nothing. Tried testing the switch and my ground source and everything tests out fine. Tested the saddle tap. Its fine. Tested with the switch on and using a meter to check ohms at the tap to the frame of the truck I'm getting 8ohms. I would think there shouldn't be any resistance because its a dead short but that's what I'm getting. Am I connected to the right spot on the transmission or should I move the tap to the plug under the brake master cylinder. Could my TC lockup solenoid be going out and that's what's causing the shudder and why the manual switch doesn't work.
Got a shudder noise similar to an exhaust leak on my Excursion V10. I have no codes ... engine idles and revs fine.. Only hear noise when under load. Goes away when you let off the gas.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Excursion with multiple transmission symptoms, so here goes.
The problem doesn't occur until after the vehicle has been driven approximately 100 miles as far as I can tell. At that point, I'll start to notice smoke coming from underneath the vehicle caused by the transmission leaking fluid onto the exhaust from the front of the transmission. At lower speeds, and while idling, the transmission will shake and shudder. It's not noisy or that extreme, but definitely noticeable.
I've also noticed on occasion there is a loss of power at higher speeds when the vehicle is in 4th or 5th gear. This mostly happens when trying to accelerate to pass on the highway. The transmission sounds like it downshifts, but the hard I push the gas pedal, the less power I have. If I push down far enough, the RPM's begin to drop. I've noticed that after I let the vehicle sit turned off for a couple of hours, it begins to work properly again, but it only lasts until the transmission is hot again.
Just had the tires rotated , then shop tech backs the X out of the shop, parks it and then hands me the keys. I hop in and turn the key , the truck turns over , but starts to shudder and buck, and fuel pressure gauge reads 0.
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