Ford Excursion :: 2002 - Shake When Pushing On Gas - Randomly Die?
Nov 13, 2014
Bought an Ex last year with 200k miles on it. Started having issues this summer. First off, it will shake when pushing on the gas. If I let off the vibrating stops. Secondly, if I tromp on it, the speedometer drops for a second then comes back up and the "ABS" light comes on for that split second too. Thirdly, it will randomly die on me. This morning dropping off the kids at school, it died 3 times while backing up. Starts right up, but will just kill, no sputtering.
The Check engine was on, so I took it into Advance for a reading. Computer said there was an issue at the rear output sensor. So, I replaced the Speed Sensor on the rear differential last night. Take it for a test drive, and the check engine light is still on, but the Overdrive light on the shifter is flashing randomly.
Now, I assume the shaking and dying is Fuel related. I am ruling out the spark plugs as it idles fine (maybe I'm wrong). I purchased a fuel filter to replace that and hopefully it works.
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So my dummy light came on the other day, I went ahead and pulled the alternator and had it tested at advanced. It tested bad so I replaced it not my battery light comes on and off randomly. I have a edge tuner on my truck and my voltage reading on there is different after each start up. Sometimes it runs 12.1-12.2 other times it reads in the 14's I have checked with a multimeter also and got the same readings +-.1 or 2.
My dummy light keeps coming back on randomly, I had to replace the alternator connector because I broke it by accident. I also traced the wires as far as I could to check for brakes in the wire and found none with out proper time to pull all the wire loom off. What is the cause I know I could probably use cables soon as my terminals look a bit rough but are clean. Seems to be some really weak flimsy metal. Which fuse to check as my 2002 ex 7.3 only has the inside fuse block and I can't find much online about it.
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So towed the trailer down to a remote lake side spot over the weekend, pretty bad dirt road with lots of breaking bumps. Now pushing the break pedal creates a swooshing noise, and a vibration under the hood around the master cylinder, and the power steering whines a little bit. Took it two several mechanics and 2 think it's the pump, one thinks it's the hydro booster? I tried to bleed any air out by turning the wheel all the way maxed and pushed the brakes, did nut really work, but I did notice that when pressing the brake pedal and turning the steering wheel at the same time, it becomes extremely difficult too turn the wheel, makes me think it's the pump because there is not enough pressure to do both?
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I recently bought an 03 F-250 6.0 Lariat crew cab FX4. It has an EGR delete, ARP studs, and the updated oil cooler. It has 138,xxx on the clock.
Randomly, only when it is at normal operating temperature it will have a slight shake to it at idle. when i try to take off from this shaky idle it feels like it is "missing" i guess you could say. it clears up about 1/8 a mile down the road every time. And i will go ahead and say this does not happen everytime it idles. Only maybe once or twice in a 30 minute trip.
What might be going on? I have not added a coolant filter yet, and it does not have synthetic oil in yet either (just bought it) I plan to use full synthetic Rotella 5w40 very soon. I think this might be a stiction problem? but i read it is uncommon to have stiction when warmed up. I do not have anything yet to pull codes or read the FICM yet. both batteries are good.
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So, just bought new se and the engine seems to shake randomly. It's most noticeable while standing. When I say shake, sometimes it feels like the rpms drop to not quite but almost seem to stall. The rpms don't actually drop the needle is steady as can be.
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I have a 2005 dodge Dakota when I'm driving the steering wheel will shake randomly.This isn't happening constantly when driving and it will stop after I make a turn. In addition it will happen randomly regardless of what speed I'm driving. What's going on?
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My 2000 v10 w/194K has developed an intermittent shake when braking. Severity from mild to severe. Had the problem earlier, suspected the rotors - replaced front rotors and pads with EB slotted rotors and Yellow Stuff pads. It was fine for a couple of months, now its back. Replaced the slide pins last night (they were in good shape, replaced anyway). Where to look next?
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So I just bought a 2004 Ex 4x4 4wd with only 50k from a dealer. While test driving the truck would shake/shudder when braking at 50-70 getting worse if you were going faster, as a condition of the sale they said they would look into it. They did and said it was the tires?? They balanced and rotated and did and alignment. Are they correct? the tires are BFG AT 33x12.5x16.5 on aftermarket rims.
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Vehicle: 2002 Toyota RAV4 171k Miles, Second Owner
Problem: When traveling at highway speeds around 60 it will be smooth. When pushing down the accelerator rather aggressively it will shift into 3rd Gear and some times lose power and I actually slow down while the RPMs increase.
I added a little bit of Lucas Slip Stop to the Transmission and it seemed to work but I'm still encountering the problem. Could this be my transmission's 3rd gear starting to fail?
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Coming home from a road trip we stopped for gas not 5 minutes later the check engine light started flashing. The car was fine as long as you were puching on the gas but as soon as you slowed to a stop it would either die or shudder until I gave it some more gas. Being stupid I figured that I could probably get it home since It was only 25 miles of freeway driving and I wouldn't have to stop until I got near my home. I took it to a mechanic the next day and they said that it was my timing belt.
The next day I get a call from them telling me my timing belt is fine but they discovered that a valve adjuster shim is missing on cylinder 6 and the adjuster cup is jammed down as well as a crack in the locating pin hole so that the pin is moving causing the cam to shift in relation to the cam gear. They suggested I rebuild or replace the cylinder heads and may need to replace the engine. What this could be?
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When I bought my X, the front end would periodically shake and pull to the right.
I recently redid the front brakes on my X. Replaced everything except the rotors; they looked okay. That fixed it pulling to the right and fixed the shaking somewhat, but it still shakes when I apply the brakes.
I don't feel it through the pedals. It's all up front, too. You can see the steering wheel shaking really bad.
What I'm thinking is maybe it's my tie rod ends? I think my front brakes were locking up and causing the shake to happen all the time. I think when I fixed that, it made it to where the shake only happens under braking. This makes me think it's the tie rod ends, or something else loose up there. I recently replaced the ball joints, too.
Or could it be the rear rotors? I just want to make sure I'm close before I start throwing parts at it!
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I have a 2000 Ford Excursion with multiple transmission symptoms, so here goes.
The problem doesn't occur until after the vehicle has been driven approximately 100 miles as far as I can tell. At that point, I'll start to notice smoke coming from underneath the vehicle caused by the transmission leaking fluid onto the exhaust from the front of the transmission. At lower speeds, and while idling, the transmission will shake and shudder. It's not noisy or that extreme, but definitely noticeable.
I've also noticed on occasion there is a loss of power at higher speeds when the vehicle is in 4th or 5th gear. This mostly happens when trying to accelerate to pass on the highway. The transmission sounds like it downshifts, but the hard I push the gas pedal, the less power I have. If I push down far enough, the RPM's begin to drop. I've noticed that after I let the vehicle sit turned off for a couple of hours, it begins to work properly again, but it only lasts until the transmission is hot again.
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I have a 2002 F150. Small V6 regular cab 8 foot bed 2 wheel drive.In the last couple of months it has developed a rhythmic shake that is more like driving over a bump. It is really quite similar to driving on a road where all the release joints have been recently tarred so you go over a slight bump every second or two. I actually tried to convince myself that is what it was for about a week. Seems to be coming from the front driver seat.I previously lived in Mexico and the pot holes there would occasionally shear the bolts right at the lug nuts. Not too different than a car that was damaged like that, but I checked the lug nuts and it seems ok.The bump does not transfer into the steering wheel.Being a 14 year old ford the motor doesn't idle as smooth as my wife's new Toyota, but not bad either. If I let off the gas the bump doesn't stop. I haven't changed into neutral while it is running to see if that stops it.Tie rod?Axle? What to check or if there is a picture of something I could post that might tell you what is wrong?Planned on a camping trip this weekend with my wife. She is going to be ticked if we have to cancel.
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I bought a 02 X back in march this year. I have a family of six and its the only SVU with enough seating and cargo room. About a month or so after I got it the battery would randomly die. I could charge it back up and it would die again a couple of days latter. I figured the battery was no good so I bought a Optima Red Top and threw that in. Truck was doing good so I thought I had it fixed. Then it started back up last week again. I could charge the battery and it would be ok for a few days then be dead the next morning.
I picked up a multi meter from Harbor Freight and checked the battery. Battery was at 10.5 volts. Charged the battery again then checked the alternator with the truck running. 14.2 volts. I've checked the connections one the battery, nice and tight not corroded or anything. My next best guess is something is getting left on and killing the battery. How do I go about testing for that? What might be causing this random battery death?
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I have a 2005 Excursion, V10, 6.8 2WD w/ 177k. About 3 months ago, I started the engine and both headlights (low beams) did not turn on (it was dark out/automatic lights) The running lights were all running. Turned the switch on/off and no luck, however the brights (high beams and flash to pass) work while this is going on. About 30 seconds later, the low beams turn back on by themselves. Fast forward 3 months, the low beams will turn off for anywhere from 1 second to 30 seconds and turn back on. This happens while sitting in driveway, driving, sitting at a light etc. No changes other then an oil change. Happens when switch set to automatic and "on" as well. Brights always work, running lights etc, just the low beams turn on and off.
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Installed the Riffraff gauge kit and the check engine light came on about 20 miles after install and the Ex now randomly has a hard jolting miss, just for a second then its gone. Took it about 4 or 5 times of the jolting miss then the check engine light came on.
Could something have been unplugged or could the manifold air intake heater delete be causing the light. Ran fine until the gauge install. I remember reading something about the ground for the manifold air intake heater being a issue if not care full. I could not get the dam thing off so tapped the end and left it. The ground post kept spinning not allowing the ground to come loose. This thing is becoming a pit I cant feed fast enough.
If I can figure this out before Monday that would be great. If not I am tired of dicking with it and am just going to take it in. Don't have a scanner that will read the codes so SOL there. Unless there is some way to get them off with a flashing light sequence. I would love to find out how to do that. I don't want to drive it anymore than I have to as if one more thing goes wrong with this dam thing........
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The best that I can describe what it feels like is at around 30 to 40 mph it shakes like your going over the side shoulder little pumps with both wheels. Only at those speeds... I all ready changed struts, tires, rack in pinion, upper and lower ball joints and tie rods. I have not change the tie rods that go up and down from struts to spindle its like 6" long or so can that be it? Or CV shaft?...
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I have a 2004 Eddie Bauer with 16k miles. The AC control unit has randomly gone dead twice. When I turn off the truck and let it sit for a while (20 min last time) it will come back on and work fine. I took it to the Ford dealer while it was dead so they would see it. They told me however, that if it works when I bring it back they wouldn't be able to work on it. What was the problem? I'm going to Parker AZ this weekend and Phoenix next weekend. I don't want it to be intermittent or crap out all together when I am there.
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Have an 05 Limited Excursion v10 where the front blower motor will cut out randomly. The rear blower will work without issue even when the front is not working. When the front is working (98% of the time) all speeds seem to work and can adjust to all heating/cooling positions. After searching the forum I thought the likely culprit was the blower motor; which I replaced this pass weekend but coming home from work it cut off again, clearly the issue is not resolved. I know the ford resistor are known to be prone to issues but symptoms do not seem to point that direction. Also it is does not happen with any consistency, happens at idle just as frequently as the expressway. What else to check and how to check before I have to give in and take to dealership...
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First issue I noticed was the brake pedal/steering vibrating - my assumption was "warped" rotors (I use warped in quotations so that this does not turn into a discussion on whether or not rotors can warp.) I checked the front and the rotors and pads seem fairly new, the back pads were pretty much gone so I replaced those. Reduced the problem somewhat. Yes I still need to do the rotors but would rear rotors that are warped cause that much shaking?
Next issue I had noticed was that for a while that the car would shake somewhat when accelerating usually going up hills or when the car is under strain. Then I noticed that when I had the car fully loaded with passengers it would shake fairly noticeably when accelerating every time.
I thought the problem may be worn plugs since it seemed to come from the engine, well after 2 days and many hours of work not the problem.
By the way I bought the car only a few months ago and have very few service records so not too sure what has or has not been done. The lady did keep up with the maintenance though.
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I randomly started throwing a couple codes that have been causing my "check engine" light to come on ... came on on my way into work this morning) . I know that the P0683 code is the Glow Plug Ctrl Module to PCM Comm Circuit (from my code reader), but I am not sure what to do next ... I have the dealer service DVD from 2002 that I will look at this weekend....
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