So I will be replacing the manual hubs on my Ford 2002 Excursion 7.3 diesel 4x4 with the WARN 38826. Just a few questions. Will I need to use the small snap ring? Also, do I have to worry about blocking the vacuum lines going to each stock hub? Any videos or step by step instructions with pictures for my truck.
View 12 RepliesOn my new to me '03 Excursion (I've owned it for 1.5 weeks now), I'm starting to get through the 1st level of issues (Wandering - fixed, Speedo/ABS issue - still working on that, changing the rear diff fluid this week, hopefully).
Now, I want to look into why the manually locking hubs won't turn. When I brought it up to the Previous Owner, who was about as mechanically inclined as my Golden Retreiver, he said "these are auto locking hubs. I never turned those things before".
They are frozen in the non-locked position, so I have to pray that I never need to actually manually lock them.
Any lucky experience at un-freezing stuck hubs? I've started the liberal application of PB Blaster process.
It has been a while. My 2000 2wd 5.4 Ex has developed a issue and I'm going to say it is the fuel pump. It was right before Christmas and I went out and the truck would not start. I panicked and remembered the relay. It pressed it, it clicked and off I went. Last week I was leaving work and it did the same thing but the relay was not tripped.
I got under it and rapped the tank a couple times with a rubber mallet and it fired up just fine. Went out this morning, super cold out and nothing. Rapped on the tank, nothing. Took the other car to work and came home, rapped on it again and nothing. The fuses are good but I'm sure it is the pump because I was able to hit the tank and start it.
My question is, any write up on removing the tank or a video? I like to see what i'm up against before I start to pull it. The bad thing for me is I have a little over half a tank of gas in it and no place to put it. This is going to be fun.
As my truck stands it has OEM automatic locking hubs with a selector for auto or lock. So, why would some one buy manual locking hubs and cap off the ESOF vacuum line when the OEM ones perform the same function by being auto or locked?
I hope this makes sense because if I felt I wanted to go to manual style locking hubs, I think I could simply cap off the vacuum line and then switch the hub to lock if I wanted 4x4 because the electric switch inside the truck is actually what engages the transfer case and puts the truck into 4x4.
Is this thinking/theory correct or am I missing something here?
I just ordered '00 F250 SC 4x4 SWB XLT with the factory standard manual hubs. The hubs show up on the vehicle order confirmation as code "21M MAN LOCKING HUB". I can't find this code in the ordering guides anywhere but kbb.com shows this code as "Manual hubs delete. Required with 213 shift-on-the-fly". I want the manual hubs. I think ##### is incorrect. For my piece of mind, could someone who has also ordered the factory standard manual hubs verify that the code is indeed 21M. And for those who ordered shift-on-the-fly, could you verify that 21M does NOT show up on your order confirmation...
View 8 RepliesI just purchased an F-350 with manual locking hubs. I am unsure if I can keep these locked in for part time four wheel driving or I need to unlock them each time I go back to two wheel drive?
View 6 RepliesI know this is going to sounds lame, my wife can't turn them, they have cover over it that has to be unscrewed to get at 'em. It would be nice to shift in and out "on the fly" as weather condition change.
Is it a difficult change?
My manual hubs on my 2006 f250 have become very hard to rotate so I would like to replace them. I saw that bronco graveyard has Warn hubs for a Dana 60 front axle. Is this what I need? My door sticker with the axle code is illegible, and I want to make sure I get the right hubs.
View 5 RepliesI've noticed my front axles are rotating all the time even when the hubs are in auto and supposed to be unlocked when in 2wd. Is there a rebuild kit for these so they will unlock the axles or do I need to buy new locking hubs?
View 14 RepliesI was getting a growl/grinding noise from my front hubs (driver's side I think) when I do a slight right turn like going around a curve, not turning around a corner. Just started happening the last week after returning from a 4th of July roadtrip. First thought was wheel bearings going out and started reading up on the forum here to see what was needed. Last night, I started getting a continuous growl when I was 5 miles from the house so just pulled up and parked it. I'm assuming (without pulling anything apart), it's the bearing assembly and I can get the Timken version at Autozone locally.
The problem is I generally do my heavy maintenance at our family shop in San Antonio but I live in Austin so will need to do this in my driveway. I have all the basic tools, just need to know how involved it is to do in a driveway instead of a shop. Thoughts?
Have a 1995 F150 with 83k with manual locking hubs. Haven't used them in almost a year. Today turned them to LOCK, normally very stiff, but this time easily turned with two fingers. Front wheels would not engage. Local mechanic put it on a lift, manually switched each hub from LOCK to FREE several times and they work fine now.
View 2 RepliesTrying to get my original auto hubs to unlock. Both are stuck locked. The dials turn but they won't disengage. Installing warn premium hubs tomorrow and the instructions say to unlock the hubs first. How can I do this if you can't unlock them?
View 1 RepliesOkay, pulled them and checked it all out.. Looks fine, disassembled the hubs and cleaned then greased went to reassemble them on the truck and they will not slide into the hub!?! What's the deal, is there a special trick to this?
It's a simple procedure, but it seems that the center shaft on the axle and the outer splined hub are not centered. thus binding, but why. It came out without a fight. I also have jacked up the front and wiggled it.
A relative's '04 EX Limited is having an odd problem. He put it in "4x4 Low" to back a trailer into a barn and after the task was complete the transfer case wouldn't shift out of low range. He tried multiple times and after about 5 minutes of fiddling around with it, it shifted into 4-Hi but wouldn't go back to 2-Hi. The hubs are in the "auto" position and will not manually unlock (the selector turns). 4x4 indicator on dash is not lit. Could the dash switch be bad? Why would the transfer case and hubs act up at the same time?
View 6 RepliesAfter a lot of reading and troubleshooting, I have come to know that it takes vacuum to engage and vacuum to disengage the automatic locking hubs on the Ford F series and Excursion. Most indications is that ~ 15" hg is required to engage and approximately half that much to disengage them. The mechanism that either engages or disengages them acts similarly to a ball point pen. The full amount of vacuum causes the mechanism to travel to it's limit, where the hub is engaged, whereas half the amount of vacuum applied only causes the mechanism to travel to its midpoint, which is where is should be for disengagement.
In my case, I have tested for vacuum leaks, none are present. I have installed new Ford OEM hub assemblies, a new locking hub solenoid and have tested the function of my vacuum pump. It draws about 13.5" hg of vacuum on the system. I do not have any issues with HVAC controls in the cabin of the truck. When installing the new hubs, I ensured that they are unlocked, the inner spline assy spins freely and once installed, the wheel shaft spins freely by hand. When I shift to 4WD on the dash, the hubs engage and all is well.
Problem I am having is when I shift back to 2WD, the hubs remain locked. I can tell as the wheel shafts are not able to be spun freely by hand. I have tried backing the vehicle, etc. No luck. Furthermore, when monitoring vacuum while engaging and disengaging 4WD, I can see that the full vacuum (~13,5") is applied when engaging. What concerns me is that only 3.5 - 4.0" hg is applied when disengaging. This is certainly not enough to operate the mechanism to the point of disengaging the hubs.
I have considered replacing the vacuum pump as I am only getting 13.5" hg of vacuum, however, when I research the replacement part, many have indicated that a new one only draws about that much, so I do not see the value in replacement.
Have any of you dealt with the same or similar problem and if so, what was your resolution?
And the vacuum pump was replaced.
View 7 RepliesI bought a 2001 Excursion Ltd 4 years ago. A previous owner put Warn Premium hubs on it, which I would have eventually done myself.
I got stuck a couple of weeks ago and tried to use my 4wd. Nothing.
A friend suggested I replace the Transfer Case Motor as it can go out if you don't use it. I got that done today but I still don't have 4wd.
I can hear the transfer case shift and see the drive shaft spinning, but the front tires don't spin.
I thought it was the PVH solenoid, but discovered the Warn locking hubs don't use the vacuum and it has been disconnected/plugged.
It has done this to me several times--both sides. Still learning about these auto lock hubs--though I did get them to "auto lock" now. It looks like the hub lock is not going as far down and creating depth for the retainer ring as I have seen on some youtube videos. I have taken out the hub lock and cleaned the outside of it before and cleaned its seating area but I have not disassembled and cleaned the hub locks themselves--had this about 4 months.
Last night, I had the right front tire off checking brakes. When I go to put the tire on--heavy mothers--I had it hanging on the outer part of the hub lock (installed of course). We're talking seconds here. I pick the tire up to put it on the lugs and the inside of the rim hits against the retainer clip area and it pops out. Why these frigging things keep popping off or hub not seating fully? Is there a reason these have el cheapo dryer vent clips instead of screws or something else?
The 2000 X I have has Warn locking hubs on them. Just to be clear, I'd need to switch them to 'lock' then choose either 4-Hi or 4-Low on the dash in order to engage the transfer case, correct?
View 8 RepliesI just recently purchased a 2000 Excursion and had some questions up in another thread. After doing some diagnosing....I have a couple of questions about the auto locking hubs. The problem I have is that even with the vacuum line disconnected from the knuckle and no vacuum...the hubs won't unlock in auto/2wd. I confirmed that the knuckle and the hubs will hold vacuum when I hooked my vacuum pump up to it and it held vacuum (the fitting should be clear as I heard the hub making some sounds). I'm getting ready to pull the hubs to clean and re-grease them. My question is that being they are still locked....will it be any harder to pull them off the spindle and after disassembling them/cleaning them.....when I re-install them....will they be unlocked by default after putting them back on the spline as they have been pulled apart and reassembled?
View 14 RepliesSwapped for Warn standard hubs a few months back when the ESOF's turned out to be trashed.
Since then, I've noticed a rattle coming from the hubs when driving over rough or broken pavement. I've checked the outer caps and they're good and snug, proper amount of grease inside, and the hub itself is completely secure.
Do aftermarket hubs have tis issue? It's not critical, but on cooler evenings with the windows down it sound like a rattle trap unless the roads are in good shape. More of a pet peeve I suppose, but still curious.