Ford Excursion :: 2002 - No Budge When Pressed The Gas And Shifted
Jan 25, 2017
I have put a lot of money into this vehicle already. It was used as a company vehicle and drove the country (when it was running and only a few months). From East to West coast. My problem now is, right after the top end of the engine was rebuilt, it was driven to North Dakota. While only being there a few days, it was stopped at a stop light and when the light turned green to go, it wouldn't budge. Pressed the gas, shifted, and nothing happened. It was pushed off the road locked up so it can be taken care of later that day. When the time came to pick it up, it was towed to the hotel. Tried backing it into a parking spot and wouldn't budge. Ended up disconnecting the drive line to push it back. It was towed back to Idaho at the end of the job and parked. Hasn't been touched since. I'm not sure if it is the transmission or not.
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So when I shifted into 2nd gear as I was putting my foot on the leg rest beside the clutch by accident my foot tapped it for a second and it went down a bit. I didn't smell any burning clutch and don't recall the rpms going up. Is this a problem that a did that I am scared....
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After doing some hunting/wheeling with my son, got back to town and 2003 Excursion w/ ~145K miles would not budge in any gear. No codes with Scangage. After 30 minutes I finally thought to rev it up and it shifted hard into gear, and drove normal home. What do do now?
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The vehicle is a 2000 Excursion 7.3 Diesel. I have never owned a diesel before....
First issue is that I have developed a hard start. It started last Saturday, and went from sporadically starting hard, to starting hard every time. I have 146,000 miles on her. She cranks strong, but will not turn over the first time, sometimes takes 2, 3, or 4 times. (Foot on gas pedal) I don't know if it's an issue of not getting enough fuel or what. Occasionally, even after she starts, it's very rough (shaking the whole vehicle, and acting like she wants to die) until I rev the engine and she smoothes out. After she smoothes out, there is no problem with wanting to drive, she's strong. If I kill the ignition, and start up immediately, she starts the first time, it's only after 10 minutes or so of being off.
My next issue is a clunking noise when I press the gas pedal. I don't know if it's the tranny, because she shifts pretty smooth for the most part, doesn't miss gears, etc. I could be travelling say 50MPH, press the gas pedal very little, and I can hear the clunking, and actually feel it every time I press it. (Don't have to be mashing the pedal, happens on very light presses as well).
I have the TS Performance 6 position chip, otherwise she's stock. I tow roughly a 7000 travel trailer every couple of weeks, never any problems before this.
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Need to identify this noise? After starting the car after sitting overnight or anytime the engine is cold it makes this sound when shifted into gear. You can hear the sound dissipate and eventually go away but it has me worried.
2002 I4 Camry LE 150K
Video : [URL] ....
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I drive a 2007 Ford Focus (manual trans), and it's been acting funny lately.
Here's the problem: Lately, when I start the car and try to put it into gear (either 1st OR R,) the shifter won't budge. While the engine is off, I can put it in gear just fine. After I wait for a little, turn the car off and on again, etc, I can get the shifter into gear if I really push it HARD. (I know I probably shouldn't do this, but... I was terribly late and desperate!) Okay, so I get the car into first and manage to pull out of my parking spot without having to reverse. When I go to get into second gear, I've still gotta push the shifter REALLY hard (again, bad!! I know!) but maybe a little easier. Where I live, it's stop-sign city, so I have to stop and go a lot, and within a few minutes of this (maybe 3 or 4 cycles of N, 1, 2, maybe 3, N) I can shift smoothly again and the car feels totally normal.
The strange thing is, this happens sporadically, and I can't seem to see any external factors that correlate with the problem, except that it seems to be worse when the car's been sitting for a couple days. Sometimes the car shifts just fine, and sometimes it won't get into gear at all. In general, the car's in pretty good shape: no accidents, scheduled maintenance, etc. I guess the only caveat is that a couple years ago, TWO people learned to drive stick in this vehicle, so maybe the transmission has taken some abuse.
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My 02 BMW 525i engine starts to stop running when the gas pedal is pressed. The engine starts and drives fine when the engine is cold. However, after driving for a while like more than 20 miles, I mean when the engine warms up already, the engine suddenly stops when the gas pedal is pressed, like stopping in the traffic light or STOP sign and starts to drive. I replaced the idle air control valve, but it does not work. What should I check next?
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2002 Outback, runs great EXCEPT for very annoying roaring, revving noise when gas pedal is pressed and going over 35mph. Sounds like car is running 60 mph in second gear. It is an automatic transmission. Don't think it's a transmission problem, gears change smooth (does about 2300 rpms at 65 mph). Sound will stop and runs normal if you let off gas. Noise is loud. Bearings, exhaust, etc.
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I am at a complete loss as to what could be wrong with my 2002 VW Gold Cabrio GLX automatic transmission. In the last month the car has been to 3 different mechanics & none of them could solve this problem. The basic scenario: The car starts up fine. The engine will run & everything works fine (AC, radio lights etc).
If I put the car in Drive or reverse...it will idle & move. However, the moment I touch the gas pedal, whether in reverse or Drive, the car jerks & dies. If I put it in park & try to start it up again, the engine will turn over & the car will start, but the moment I touch that gas pedal again, same thing, jerks & dies.
Things that have been replaced so far: ignition coil, fuel pump, the catalytic converter has been removed. spark plugs replaced. Now they are saying that the problem is electrical & are working with the fuzes & wires. The car ran fine for 3+ years & I've had no problem with it.
Yesterday the mechanic called me & said the car was ready for pick-up. I go over there, pay him, I reverse out of the driveway & the minute I press the gas, it jerks & dies. Is this problem really electrical? Or is this third mechanic also grasping at straws?
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The 7.5 a/c fuse blows every time the a/c button is pressed. replaced the a/c relay but problem persists.
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I am trouble shooting my temp gauge. I have a 1997 f350. I brought the truck a year ago and i have still not fix this problem. I install a new temp gauge and nothing changed. When ever the truck is running it reads cold and doesn't budge. Ive read that the gauge can be broken its self but during a few hot times over the summer. The gauge began to rise slower, never reaching normal temperature. A few times i messed with the heat and the gauge would shoot over the normal temp. The truck seems to run at a good temp sometimes hot though. The tube on top of the radiator is hotter than the bottom also.
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I have an 89 Ranger, 5 speed, 2wd, M50D transmission. On the way home tonight I was upshifting from a stop and when I went to go from 4th to 5th the shifter wouldn't budge. Luckily I was on a back road so I pulled off the road and tried all sorts of things (rolling truck while stopped, etc) and the shifter just will not budge.
Now here is the thing. I had my fiancé with me and no tools so I really couldn't do any diagnosing. However, 6 months ago I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, slave cylinder, and pilot bearing. While I had the transmission out of the truck I changed the fluid, siliconed around the rubber plugs, and put a shift bushing kit in. The bushing kit is the bushings around the shift ball with new wave washers and new pins that insert into the ball.
It is obviously not related to the clutch as it engages/disengages properly. When this happened, there were no noises of any kind when I shifted from 3rd to 4th. It just will not come out of 4th. I am going to pull the shifter out tomorrow and have a look. Do you think one of the new pins that I drove in to hold the shift ball broke or fell out or something and if so would it cause this problem?
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We have a 2002 Malibu with 216,000 miles. Car in excellent condition and always garage kept. We have used the same mechanic for many years until this year when he closed his shop. We do plan to replace the car next year, but it's just not necessary to do so just yet.
A couple of month ago someone rear ended me and the body shop replaced the trunk weather stripping, rear bumper, light assemblies, repainted the trunk/bumper/rear side panels.
Several weeks ago, while hubby was pulling the car out of the garage I noticed every time the brake is pressed the backup lights come on too. I then checked turn signals, all other lights, etc. Everything else appears normal except this oddity.
I took it back to the body shop and told them what was happening and said it had to be something done during the repair work. He checked and said everything was hooked up correctly and I needed to take it to a mechanic because it wasn't anything they did.
I have researched and researched and found several other people with this problem. One answer was that the new light assembly was after market and the "pins" were not compatible with the original wiring harness. Another was that the wiring harness coming from the trunk was somehow damaged.
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The parking brake lever on my '05 Escape will not budge, is there a simple solution to this problem or do I most likely need the whole cable assembly replaced? Is there any particular spot on the cable that's most susceptible to seizing from rust that I could soak with penetrating oil to free it up? I know the inner cable comes out of the coiled metal, conduit-like outer part and is exposed where it attaches to the rear brakes. Is this most likely the spot that's causing the problem?
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02 Montana with 4T65E electronic 4 speed transmission. car has 75000 miles. normal driving and shifting seems to be fine. Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor. no check or service engine lights.
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So I went to install a front end leveling kit in my 2003 2WD F250, looked like a simple task, except the bolt that holds the lower coil spring mount won't budge! I tried heating the nut, I soaked it with WD-40, tried a 200lb impact and a 30" breaker bar with all my weight. Is there something I am missing?
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Ok, did an intake manifold cleaning on my 99 Accord the other day, and now I have problems...
Long story short, some time ago my car started to have a very rough idle. Took me awhile to find the problem. Turned out the air hose, between the filter and throttle body, had developed a big hole on the underside. So I replaced it and while I was at it used some throttle body cleaner, spraying into the intake manifold chamber. Lot of junk blew out the tailpipe. The car ran much better, but the idle could still be a little rough. I ran it that way for awhile, and finally the other day decided there was probably still some junk in there and it was time to really clean it out. So I took ff the throttle body and intake manifold housing. There was a lot of junk in there! The small intake on the passenger side was completely clogged shut. (I understand this isn't surprising on these cars.) I used a bunch of rags and 2 cans of Valvoline throttle body cleaner and a lot of elbow grease and cleaned it out. I was thinking to myself that whatever I didn't get with the rags flushed through OK, but I didn't want to take the whole intake manifold out.
So I put it all back together. (I took a video before I started, so I'm pretty sure it's all back together right.) But now I have problems. The car starts. It idles fine mostly, but can be a bit rough. But the trouble starts when I put the pedal down. If I do it in Park, well, if I push it quick the engine just dies. If I push it slow, the engine revs then quits, revs and quits, over and over. Similar if it's in gear. If I push it hard, the engine stalls. If I push it gentle, it revs up, but chugs along a bit.
I've run some seafoam through it, thinking it was clogged up with all that junk, and sure enough, lots of smoke comes out, but nothing is improving so far. What have I done wrong?
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My 2005 Grand Am is stuck in park. It has been difficult to shift for the past day or two, but today it just won't budge. Putting the car in accessory and trying to shift from there doesn't work either. What might be wrong?
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I've a 1998 Kia Sephia with AT. It was hit by a tree when Irene hit and was sitting in my driveway for a month while I did some minor body repairs. Now I cant shift it out of Park! I took the console off to look at the shifter. The interlocks work (shifter button and break) but the cable that goes to the shift lever on the trans wont budge.
Is their something on the transmission that would prevent it from shifting? Or is the transmission itself frozen? Would changing AT fluid or an additive? The car is parked right in front of my garage (nose in), so I cant budge it or tow it!
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I'm having an issue with my clutch and I'm really in a hole. Two days ago I was driving my car and everything was fine. Later in the day the shifter got stuck and would not budge out of 5th gear. Eventually it popped out. Driving like normal again and then yesterday I was on my way home from work and all hell broke loose. I was a mile away from my house and the car would not shift into any gear without a fight.
I also at this time lost my clutch pedal. It went really soft but did come back up.. it would not engage however. Limped it the rest of the way home and took a look at it. What I came across was a full brake/clutch reservoir, no leaks around the slave, and I didn't see any leaks around the master. I will say that after the car sat for about 10 mins the pedal felt normal again but quickly went soft after a few pumps.
2.0 AEG 5spd. Trans code DZQ if any of that would be relevant..
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I have a 2005 and the passenger window decided to stop working; it is halfway down and won't budge. Is there a seperate fuse for the individual windows? If so where are they?
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