Ford Excursion :: 2002 - How To Get Off Rear Window Struts
Nov 14, 2010
How to get the struts off the rear window of a 2002 excursion?
View 14 RepliesHow to get the struts off the rear window of a 2002 excursion?
View 14 RepliesThe rear (side) pop-out windows on my '02 X have begun to sag at the back of the truck. They operate just fine, but the glass is actually touching the body when they are closed.
It's hard to get a good picture, but I've included a couple anyway.
My rear glass hatch won't stay up. I think it need new struts. How to replace them? I can't seem to see the location of the struts.
View 2 Replies2002 Camry, 140K miles.
While I don't have any leaky struts etc, I have been planning to change struts proactively when I find time. (NOT Quick struts, have monroe OE Spectrum struts).
I understand I have to do them in pairs.
Which one takes more time? Fronts or rears?
And I am guessing alignment won't be way off if I first say do the front set then weeks later the rear?
Rear passenger window will only go up. I tried new motor, same problem, swapped switch with other back door the problem stayed on the same side. Drivers main switch to that rear window does same thing, up but not down.
View 12 RepliesWhen i try to use rear window washer the fluid comes out on the front window with front wipers not activating and rear one moving. The front washer works fine. The hose was disconnected above the headliner.
View 12 RepliesMy passenger side rear vent window is leaking and I was gonna redo the weather stripping but I can't figure how to release the latch from the motor. It looks like a ball and socket type connection with a little wire clip in it, but I tried pulling it out and it wouldn't come out very far, and tried pushing in in more but no luck. I don't want to break the darn thing for sure.
View 9 RepliesSo the rear defroster tab has popped off the window. I purchased this kit from O'Reillys but when I clipped the wire back onto the tab it popped the tab right back off. I even waited 48 hours instead of 24 so it had plenty of time to set, even with the cooler temperatures. Okay, so I forgot about it until I took the stroller out and noticed the trim laying in the back of the X... but still, plenty of time to bond well. I'm thinking of calling a glass shop & seeing what they'll charge to reattach.
View 2 RepliesI think my rear window shocks are shot. Last week when the temps hit -15 they completely failed. Are these a rebuild-able shock or do I need to purchase new ones?
Why do I have a bad feeling that this will be an overpriced item????
My friend who has two of my old Ex's and her silver '04 shut her hatch window first and then went to close the barn door and, well you know how that goes.
My question is, she has my old 2000 Ex for parts. Can the window be removed from the hatch itself or do we have to swap the whole hatch between trucks?
Rear passenger's side window doesn't work, everything else is OK so its not the fuse, switch, or lockout.
View 5 RepliesThe rear most drivers side window, behind the spare, is not working. It has been intermittent since new but always worked at the dealer. Now its out of warranty.
View 14 Replies2005 Excursion..... When the switch is pushed, the relay clicks. The light on the switch does NOT come on.
I have switched relays for testing. The fuse is good. The truck has heated mirrors. Are they related to the rear glass issue?
Bought this in June. No winter use yet. Is a freezing temperature required for operation?
My passenger side rear window will not open. Is there a fuse for this or is the motor just bad?
View 3 Replies2003 ford excursion xlt, 4x4, v10, auto.
My rear window defroster does not work. I have no power to the switch. on the reply I do have power to terminal 30 on the relay. If I use a jumper wire between 30 and 87 it works. I think the problem is terminal 86 should have power when thever key is in run position but it doesn't. I have the factory wiring diagram book but am at a loss. It seems to me it is more of a mechanical connection inside the junction box but there are other components on the circuit that work.
I recently purchased a 2001 XLT, 5.4L RWD. It has the rear windows with actuators installed. The upper console has the vent switches to open and close them. They don't work. I removed the upper console and the vent switches have no wires running to them and no visible wire harnesses that have been cut or removed.
With the headliner removed, I chased the wires from the actuators (white with brown/yellow with brown on the right and white with blue/yellow with blue on the left). These four wires meet up over the right rear door and run in a bundle to the upper console where they seem to end in the plug for the Rear A/C controller. There is no indication that these harnesses have been altered. They appear to be taped like they came from the factory.
My questions are, were the opening rear window vents standard on the XLT or only on the Limited? If only on the limited, would they have installed actuators regardless of what model and just dead-end the wires into open plugs? There may be the chance that the upper console was aftermarket because there is a price tag sticker on it...
Need a wiring diagram that will show me how the rear window defroster circuit works in my Excursion. I have the EATC, which may or may not be related... not sure. So the diagram would probably need top be from 2002-2005. Obviously I ask because mine is not working (and neither are the mirror heaters since they are activated by the same switch - I think???). I've checked fuses to no avail...
Mine has never worked since I got this Excursion put together last year. I have read some previous threads that mention two different rear hatch glass defroster grids, one being a higher output grid (and different resistance?) than the other. Is there a chance my system is looking for the higher ohm grid, but my window grid is the lower ohm unit and therefore not activating the timer? I only ask this because my electrical system is M/Y 2002, but my back hatch is from a 2000 M/Y.
Also, I get no indicator light when the switch is depressed. I have tried 3 different switches just because I had extras... no luck.
2001 XLT V10.. rear passenger window would not go down so I replaced the window motor, all went well.
With the switch and window went down nicely, would not return upwards. Changed switches with the other door, no change. Went to driver door and used the master there, nothing.
Pulled the motor back out, goes only one direction. Tested the old motor, same thing just opposite direction...old motor would not bring window down, new motor will not bring window up. ok..
Now, with them out, I plugged them into the socket again and used the driver door control for the right rear passenger window...nothing at all. At the passenger door itself we have the actuator going in one direction...at the drivers door trying to make the passenger rear actuator work..nada, zip, dead.
Took the motor and plugged it into another door and both motors are working perfectly.. So..can the driver door switch be bad and upsetting the system? I truly hate electrical...this confirms my distaste..
I have an 02 extended cab F150 and whenever it rains the rear window leaks (it doesnt have a slider, it's solid) and the half doors leak too... i sealed the back window with caulk to try and fix it and it worked for about 2 storms and then it started to leak again. The side doors leak at the seam where they meet the front doors... Should i order new seals for the windows? or is there a simpler way to do it that isnt as expensive..
View 9 RepliesMy 2002 has a sliding rear window. I noticed the rubber weatherstripping pieces that seal the sliding piece of glass was out of place. I slid the window open and it fell off. I then looked at the others and they were being held on by a thread.
I took them off. There is black rubber or weatherstrip adhesive in the tracks the strips came from. Do I need to scraped that out and reapply adhesive? Is there a video or tutorial on this somewhere?
2002 excursion with 7.3 diesel. A while ago i had problems with it not starting, and a buddy of mine worked on neutral safety switch. It was the issue, and it then worked. shortly thereafter, i noticed the backup sensors were not working, and figured it was just my luck. what i also didn't notice was the rear lights were not going on when i put it in reverse.
Just so happened one day when I put it in reverse i was a little off in the shifting and the backup sensor worked. I played around and discovered that when i lightly shifted into R (so that it was much more towards Park) things worked. so we ended up trying to adjust it some more. As of now, still doesn't engage backup sensors or reverse lights, and I have to hold the shifter up hard into park to start it. if i don't it wont start. How do I get it to adjust correctly?