Ford Excursion :: 2002 - Door Locks Quit Working?
Aug 7, 2016
I have a 2002 excursion xlt 4x4 v10
The door locks quit working. The previous owner did the tin foil repair... I replaced the four door actuators today. Now all of the doors lock and unlock on the manual buttons. The fob doesn't work on any door.. when i try and use the door code pad, the locks go into a cycle.. the keep trying to operate by themselves. I had to disconnect the battery to get it to stop. I can't find the door lock relays. I have most of the dash out. Where these are?
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Troubleshooting a problem with friend's 2000 F250. His power windows aren't working and are causing problems with his door locks and interior lights. When he tries to use his drivers side power window, his power door locks quit working. If he puts the switch to raise, the interior lights flash. From what I've read, it sounds like the GEM to me, we've inspected the wiring and it all looks good. I pulled it out today and it looks good inside, no sign of water leaks on it. If it is the gem, how much do they cost and do they require programming?
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1997 Ford Expedition 4x4
When I push the switch for the drivers window I can hear the relay in the fuse block make a click but window doesn't move. If I push the switch for any other window (on the drivers door or any other door) no click at the relay and no window movement. I've swapped the relay with other relays in the fuse block but nothing changed.
I've tested the driver side window motor by running 12 volts directly and the motor works fine. When I press the PDL switch I hear a buzzing sound coming from the passenger floor area behind the glove box but the locks do not go up or down. I started the truck and when I put it in gear I can hear the PW relay in the fuse block clicking repeatedly. Put the truck in Park & the clicking stops.
I was told (on another forum) that the problem is most likely my GEM module. Bought a used 1 on eBay and installed it today but nothing changed.
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I have an '02 X. I have re-programmed the seat belt alarm setting per the owners manual and set the "lights on after ignition off" to suit my needs.
The one thing that is driving me nuts though is that when I turn the ignition off and get out only the driver's door is unlocked. I want ALL locks to unlock. I haven't seen anything in the manual about this. How to re-program the locks so that they all unlock when the ignition is switched off?
I've put put about 2000 miles on the X now, towing my 5000lb trailer, mild offroading and running around town. It sure puts a smile on my face!
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So on my 2001 excursion v10 my power door locks won't work. The 30amp fuse under the hood is blown and originally thought it was simply the fuse. No biggie picked up a new fuse... yay it works! Well it did for 2 locks and 2 unlocks then blown. So after reading I suspected it was the resistor inside the door lock actuator. So I did the free mod (taking them all apart and using foil instead of a resistor) got done last night popped in a new fuse... 2 locks 2 unlocks and a blown fuse. So I feel like I wasted a bunch of time doing the resistor mod but whatever,and now im back where I started. So right before this problem started originally one of my boys was messing with the number pad on the driver door. Not sure if its related just thought I'd put that in for out there.
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After lurking here on FTE for the past several months, I finally had the opportunity yesterday to pick up a new to me 2002 Excursion Limited w/ 7.3 diesel engine. The kids (5yo twins) absolutely love it and even the wife is growing very attached
I think I bought it for a very fair price and it's in just about pristine condition with 110k on it. The previous owner took very good care of it and had just about a full maintenance history for the vehicle. The ball joints and tie rods were replaced at 90k and it still has the original tranny-it does shift very deliberately and solidly though. My first true mod will be to add the 6.0 cooler and a tranny filter to hopefully put off what seems to be the inevitable with the 4R100 transmissions. I'm not thrilled with the wheels/tires and plan on swapping them out asap along with the headlights/taillights.
If there is one particular issue so far, it's that the power door locks don't work. When the buttons are pushed (inside and out), there's absolutely no reaction - not even clicking to indicate that the actuators are bad/stuck. I've pulled the #19 fuse and it's fine - reinserting it doesn't reset anything. I'm wondering if the vehicle security module may be bd? How can I narrow it down to make sure it is indeed the problem before dropping the coin for it plus reset?
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Had the two batteries disconnected on the 2002 Excursion (7.3). Once reconnected, the door actuators all repeatedly lock. They all click every 5 - 10 seconds. Sometimes they click every second for about 5 seconds.
I can't actuate ANY of the door locks on the truck, the switches seem dead. Also, the "door open" LED in the dash is lit. The "THEFT" light is blinking fast as well.
I've disconnected the batteries again several times to see if I can reset whatever is going on. I am keeping a spare key in my pocket because I will get locked out otherwise.
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All at once my power locks and windows on all doors and the power mirrors quit working. The Driver Info center also says "Unknown Driver" when I start the car. After that happened the check engine ligth came on and when I went to get that checked there was no power to the ODB port (not sure if it is related or separate). Also, the brake, ABS, and traction control lights are on...they have been so I'm sure that is a separate issue.
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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The ruck is a 2002 Ex limited v10 4x4. The cruise worked fine till my wife drove the truck! the green cruise light blinked a few times, now, there is nothing.I'm no good at electrical issues.
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I have a 2002 f150 supercrew, 4wd. The power door locks stopped working the other day and I am trying to fix it. So far I have checked the fuse in the power distribution box, good. I have checked the wires from the doors to the cab along the door sills to the rear doors , all good. I did find a couple of iffy grounds on the left kick panel and cleaned and repaired them. I am having a heck of a time finding the group of relays that control the lock and unlock functions. Remember , I have no power lock function at all. I would swear its not getting power to the relays but until I find them , I just don't know. Where they are supposed to be?
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I bought a 2002 f250 Crewcab bout 6 months ago. A couple of months back I noticed that after driving it and turning off ignition and opening door my radio would stay on and doors would not respond to key fob or switch on doors. Eventually it would reset and radio would turn off and key fob would work. It also makes the locking sound when press on brake. It doesn't happen all the time though and that's only issue. Truck is in awesome shape only 106,000 on it, belonged to an old man who only used it to tow camper twice a year. I've read a few posts that have similar problems and have heard could be gem or vsm.
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My navigation door quit working, tilt function also, and it's stuck open. The Nav unit works fine. Dealer is telling me thousands to replace it - but I suspect it's like the Mercedes dealer where my SL was missing a $10 clip - and they wanted to replace the dashboard... I'm hoping it can be repaired. It makes a little "ping" sound then I turn the car off, but I don't hear the door motor.
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I have a 2002 Rav4, no key fob, just use a regular key. The driver's side door started to have unlocking issues and finally wouldn't unlock at all. The other two outside locks - passenger side and back door - were fine and were the only way I was getting into my car for a couple of weeks. Repair shop pulled the driver's side lock, pulled out the non-functioning tumbler, and had it replaced and re-keyed at a lock shop. Got the car back and driver's side door was working great, but that very day, I all-of-a-sudden couldn't unlock the passenger or the back door from the outside using the key (both will lock from the outside using the key). The shop (which I've been going to for a long time) thinks it is just a coincidence that both the other locks stopped working right after fixing the driver's side door, but that makes no sense to me. Is there anything in the driver's side door that could have been disturbed and is now preventing both the other doors from being unlocked from the outside? The repair shop solution is to just pull the other two locks and do the same thing as the driver's side door - pull any bad tumblers and re-key. I just cannot believe that this is a coincidence.
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We just replaced an injector in my truck. Everything was fine, ran great, etc.
On the freeway home, the dash, windows, locks, radio all quit working. at first they'd stop and come back, stop and come back, etc. then finally they stopped. As I was getting off the nearest exit, the truck started dying on me. Once I got pulled over out of the way, it acted like the battery was completely dead.
After a few minutes of scratching my head and staring under the hood, I happened to look at the passenger side batter, and the crossover cable from the drivers side was broken off right at the terminal!! We must have broke it off while doing the injector. as I look closer at it, it had been broken before. Some idiot before me had actually taken a broken crimp style terminal, shoved it and crimped it into a new one and called it good.
I was able to redneck it back together so i could finish the last couple miles home. I fixed it properly with a new crimp terminal, heat shrink, etc. Why did the engine die with the crossover connection broken? was it because the series was not complete, and all the electronics were running off the battery(s) and not the alternator? I'm really confused. I've heard of people only running one battery before.
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I bought my 2001 with 85k and prepared myself that it would likely need some work. Had cat-back replaced a week after purchase. Next up, door locks - I can hear the switches in all 4 doors trying to lock/unlock, they move ever so slightly which makes me think that due to minor usage over the past 14 years, they are just a bit sticky on the inside of the door panel. Before I go tearing off the door panels. Not sure I uploaded pics correctly....
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My air conditioning on my 02 is having a issue, when you first start it and run the ac all is well and it cools perfect but then after a while it will quit working all together no more cold air, shut it off for a bit then it starts working again and repeats the process, charge is fine, been doing this all summer, it verys on how long it will work somethings for 5 minutes other times 40 minutes give or take, any thoughts?
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So, this 2000 X-Limited that recently bought has an issue.
Power door locks. The drivers door is the only door that works, using either the remote fob or the rocket switch on the door. None of the other doors, or the rear lift glass work.
I have a hard time believing that ALL of the individual actuators in each door don't work.
Does the actuator in the drivers door act as a primary? Are all of the other actuators slaved through the drivers door? Is there a relay between the drivers door and the other doors that could be bad?
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I did look but couldn't find. So the locks work like a bullet when using the remote. However, they...especially the passenger side door locks are slow. Passenger side struggles to move at all on some occasions.
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My Excursion is stuck in 2wd. It worked one morning, then it didn't that same afternoon.
I've checked all fuses that resemble a related fuse in the fuse box.
I've replaced the dash switch, Transfer case shift motor and ESOF/GEM module behind the glove box. I've swapped around the relays under the hood on the drivers side fender well.
I ran a hot & ground to the 2-wire plug on the x-fer case shift motor to have it move the ex back into 2wd (replacing the shift motor required me to manually put it in 4hi with a wrench).
At this point, I'm thinking it's a wiring issue? Where to go next?
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2002 Excursion 7.3 4x4 160,000 miles trans rebuilt @100,000.
Yesterday while driving on the freeway our Ex all of the sudden felt like it was in neutral. Coasted to the side of the freeway, it would not move in any gear including reverse. There were no bad noises/sounds or anything like that.
The Ex ran great before this, with no signs of the trans going out. My question is what could cause the trans to go out all at once, sure doesn't seem like something was wearing out.
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