Ford Excursion :: 2002 - Door Locks Continuously Locking
Dec 28, 2012
Had the two batteries disconnected on the 2002 Excursion (7.3). Once reconnected, the door actuators all repeatedly lock. They all click every 5 - 10 seconds. Sometimes they click every second for about 5 seconds.
I can't actuate ANY of the door locks on the truck, the switches seem dead. Also, the "door open" LED in the dash is lit. The "THEFT" light is blinking fast as well.
I've disconnected the batteries again several times to see if I can reset whatever is going on. I am keeping a spare key in my pocket because I will get locked out otherwise.
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I have an '02 X. I have re-programmed the seat belt alarm setting per the owners manual and set the "lights on after ignition off" to suit my needs.
The one thing that is driving me nuts though is that when I turn the ignition off and get out only the driver's door is unlocked. I want ALL locks to unlock. I haven't seen anything in the manual about this. How to re-program the locks so that they all unlock when the ignition is switched off?
I've put put about 2000 miles on the X now, towing my 5000lb trailer, mild offroading and running around town. It sure puts a smile on my face!
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I have a 2002 excursion xlt 4x4 v10
The door locks quit working. The previous owner did the tin foil repair... I replaced the four door actuators today. Now all of the doors lock and unlock on the manual buttons. The fob doesn't work on any door.. when i try and use the door code pad, the locks go into a cycle.. the keep trying to operate by themselves. I had to disconnect the battery to get it to stop. I can't find the door lock relays. I have most of the dash out. Where these are?
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After lurking here on FTE for the past several months, I finally had the opportunity yesterday to pick up a new to me 2002 Excursion Limited w/ 7.3 diesel engine. The kids (5yo twins) absolutely love it and even the wife is growing very attached
I think I bought it for a very fair price and it's in just about pristine condition with 110k on it. The previous owner took very good care of it and had just about a full maintenance history for the vehicle. The ball joints and tie rods were replaced at 90k and it still has the original tranny-it does shift very deliberately and solidly though. My first true mod will be to add the 6.0 cooler and a tranny filter to hopefully put off what seems to be the inevitable with the 4R100 transmissions. I'm not thrilled with the wheels/tires and plan on swapping them out asap along with the headlights/taillights.
If there is one particular issue so far, it's that the power door locks don't work. When the buttons are pushed (inside and out), there's absolutely no reaction - not even clicking to indicate that the actuators are bad/stuck. I've pulled the #19 fuse and it's fine - reinserting it doesn't reset anything. I'm wondering if the vehicle security module may be bd? How can I narrow it down to make sure it is indeed the problem before dropping the coin for it plus reset?
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I have a 2003 ford f150 supercrew. The problems that I am having is first, my door locks will unlock just fine on the key fob and on the door switch inside the cab but they will not lock at all. I've checked the fuses and everything and cant find the problem. it did this one other time then one day there was a pop from in the dash and they started working.
The second issue that I am having is my 4x4 doesn't work all the time. i turn the switch on the dash and the 4x4 light comes on and i can hear a click but then i have nothing so I took it to my mechanic and he said it was probably the shift fork but he wouldn't know til he took it apart. so i decided to hold off then the 4x4 worked fine for a couple weeks if it was my shift fork would my 4x4 still work sometimes? could these problems be related?
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2003 supercrew. Could this be because of a switch, fuse, etc?
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I bought my 2002 Excursion 6.8L about 2yrs ago, no less than a week of having it I started to have all sorts of problems. (insert nagging wife here) the biggest of problems was the darn thing started to run very rough and the ABS light cont to flash, then the truck just died (engine stopped, EXTREMELY scary in a intersection) I replaced the VSS in the rear diff.. acted a little better for a while then..no luck. I called around to every ford dealer in town. I need more break light fluid to there isn't enough grease on my wobbler pin?
So I got the initiative to simplify what I was seeing and hearing. I found that there was an OSS sensor on the tail of the transmission...drove my very intense self up to the dealership and bought myself a new OSS sensor. I got home and replaced it, then I drove my truck under the largest shade tree I could find and replaced all the coils and spark plugs. (Insert bloody knuckles and curse words here) Job Done. I thought to myself if this doesn't fix it then I don't know what to do. (I couldn't sell it)...again the point being...the truck has never ran better, gas mileage has doubled and the true power of the v10 has been restored. I found 4 different types of spark plugs in it and 3 different types of coils...?
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I drive a 2009 Elantra SE. We have not been using our key fobs for years. We just prefer to open the car with a key and lock it using the auto door lock button in inside of vehicle when we exit. When we shut the door after locking it in this way, the hazards blink once.
We just moved to an area with more petty property crime. Does the above procedure enable the anti-theft alarm, or do you have to use the fob? If I recall, locking the car with the fob causes the hazards to also blink, but the horn also sounds if you press the fob twice.
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I have a 2003 base toyota prius. You can lock all the car doors from the drivers side or from the passenger's side. I did that today and left then had to get something from my car about 15minutes later. When I pushed the lock to open the other 3 locks for the other 3 doors they won't open. Only the driver;s side will open. When I pushed the lock to open/close all the car doors on the passengers side only the driver's side would open/close. I thought maybe I hit the child safety lock so I pushed it but it still wouldn't open the other doors even though all the windows roll up and down from the drivers side and from the actual doors they are on. What is wrong with my locks? Did I accidentally push teething and how can I get it fixed??!!
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Well, it seems like it. Bought new, now has under 20k miles. Car starts and runs great to a destination. Stop, shop, start up and drive off. Then, while in traffic, the door locks (4) start locking and unlocking rapidly on their own, then the car will bog down and is unresponsive to the gas pedal. Seconds later, the engine will rev to high rmps momentarily and then lurch forward to a normal speed and it will seem fine for 10 or 20 seconds. Then it repeats the process. It has happened 3 times in the past year. Wife is terrified to drive the car. All three times we took it immediately to the dealer. The second time, it happened there, as they were taking out back. As of this date, the dealer is unable to identify the problem...no codes. It was in for recall in 2014 for the BCM connection repair. It has gotten a new battery 2 yrs ago, and a new key. It has always been dealer serviced. Since it happens in traffic, and my wife is driving we do not know what dash lights indicators pop up, she is trying to keep safe. It's now been in the dealer, this time, for 5 days, nothing!
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I bought my 2001 with 85k and prepared myself that it would likely need some work. Had cat-back replaced a week after purchase. Next up, door locks - I can hear the switches in all 4 doors trying to lock/unlock, they move ever so slightly which makes me think that due to minor usage over the past 14 years, they are just a bit sticky on the inside of the door panel. Before I go tearing off the door panels. Not sure I uploaded pics correctly....
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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So on my 2001 excursion v10 my power door locks won't work. The 30amp fuse under the hood is blown and originally thought it was simply the fuse. No biggie picked up a new fuse... yay it works! Well it did for 2 locks and 2 unlocks then blown. So after reading I suspected it was the resistor inside the door lock actuator. So I did the free mod (taking them all apart and using foil instead of a resistor) got done last night popped in a new fuse... 2 locks 2 unlocks and a blown fuse. So I feel like I wasted a bunch of time doing the resistor mod but whatever,and now im back where I started. So right before this problem started originally one of my boys was messing with the number pad on the driver door. Not sure if its related just thought I'd put that in for out there.
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So, this 2000 X-Limited that recently bought has an issue.
Power door locks. The drivers door is the only door that works, using either the remote fob or the rocket switch on the door. None of the other doors, or the rear lift glass work.
I have a hard time believing that ALL of the individual actuators in each door don't work.
Does the actuator in the drivers door act as a primary? Are all of the other actuators slaved through the drivers door? Is there a relay between the drivers door and the other doors that could be bad?
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I did look but couldn't find. So the locks work like a bullet when using the remote. However, they...especially the passenger side door locks are slow. Passenger side struggles to move at all on some occasions.
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Renee said her barn door lock stopped locking and unlocking with the key, so I checked the connecting rod from the cylinder to the actuator and found it had broke off the cylinder. I also found a small metal clip of some sort laying loose in the area beneath the actuator.
I checked the 'net and couldn't find any good, close up pics of each end of the rod to see how it's attached. I did find a YouTube vid of the actuator area, but when the goombah in the vid started talking, I thought to myself, that voice sounds familiar! So I scrolled down the page and what do I see? Apocs pic and name, showing it was uploaded by Jon, LOL.
Anyway, can someone remove that back plastic panel on the rear hatch and take a few pictures of the connecting rod and how it connects to the actuator? I know I have to replace the plastic/metal tab that connects the rod to the cylinder, but that opposite end, the actuator end, has me a bit perplexed.
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I am getting ready to tackle a few projects on the new X. First I would like to fix the door locks. passenger side front, it makes a noise when i hit the lock/unlock button, but doesn't move. Hoping it is the actuator but wanted to make sure first. Is the actuator the first culprit to fix? I guess, How do i know it is the actuator? Wanna order them from rockauto soon. I've researched on here door actuators, looks pretty simple.
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I bought the truck from the original owner, its a true to life cream puff. Fully loaded. What I don't like is the doors lock automatically when I start driving. I want to disable that feature. Any way to accomplish this? 2002 Supercrew XLT lariat....
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I have a 2002 f150 supercrew, 4wd. The power door locks stopped working the other day and I am trying to fix it. So far I have checked the fuse in the power distribution box, good. I have checked the wires from the doors to the cab along the door sills to the rear doors , all good. I did find a couple of iffy grounds on the left kick panel and cleaned and repaired them. I am having a heck of a time finding the group of relays that control the lock and unlock functions. Remember , I have no power lock function at all. I would swear its not getting power to the relays but until I find them , I just don't know. Where they are supposed to be?
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Having problems with their door locks attempting to activate when turning the ignition key? If so, how can I correct it or make repairs.
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I bought a 2002 f250 Crewcab bout 6 months ago. A couple of months back I noticed that after driving it and turning off ignition and opening door my radio would stay on and doors would not respond to key fob or switch on doors. Eventually it would reset and radio would turn off and key fob would work. It also makes the locking sound when press on brake. It doesn't happen all the time though and that's only issue. Truck is in awesome shape only 106,000 on it, belonged to an old man who only used it to tow camper twice a year. I've read a few posts that have similar problems and have heard could be gem or vsm.
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