Ford Excursion :: 2002 7.3 - Trans ID - 4r100?
Aug 1, 2013
Where do i look for the trans ID on my 02, 7.3 ? thought there all 4r100's is that right..
View 2 RepliesWhere do i look for the trans ID on my 02, 7.3 ? thought there all 4r100's is that right..
View 2 RepliesI have a 02 excursion 7.3 with 120000 miles. Went camping and towed my 28ft travel trailer weighs about 9000 lbs loaded . The trans got super hot dumped fluid in the past this time same thing but the front seal went had it replaced and the trans pump rebuilt on the way home it got super hot a few times what I need to do now. The trans guy said the trans had been rebuilt in the past don't know when cuz I bought the truck used 1.5 yr ago..... The truck has tow package coolers its set up for towing how the hell do I keep the temp down...
View 14 RepliesI am having trans problems with my 2002 V10 excursion. When in overdrive, the trans will rev up 300 rpm before downshifting into direct drive. It never varies in rpm always exactly 300 rpm. It's not slipping and it seems to be an electrical problem. It has 190k on it but has only been used as a family vehicle and has never towed. It has 50k on fluid change.
View 12 RepliesWell stock trans went two weeks ago so warranty company had another stock one put it (4r100). Finally got the truck today and I noticed my overdrive was flashing. I have no issues though shifts fine speedo works Rpms are normal I checked fuse 19 under the dash that's fine so I'm lost
If I turn the key on I can use the button like normal but once I drive it just flashes. It works but flashes .
I have an early 1999 Ford F350 4x4 7.3. I purchased it used about a year ago. The trans was replaced with an ATS 4R100 and a billet torque converter. I have the paperwork for it to confirm it along with the mileage when it was installed. It currently has about 35k on the new trans.
Several months ago the trans heated up to about 200 degrees on my trans temp gauge that was already installed when I purchased it. Not a huge deal and after pulled over and high idling it off I went and no problems.
About a month ago I was towing my fifth wheel when I noticed the temp rising on a level grade. I also noticed the OD light flashing. I made it home and when I went to drive it the next day light was not flashing and it shifted and drove like normal without the trailer.
I towed the trailer again and same thing, OD light flashing and started heating up. I changed all the fluid and flushed it based on the trans flush procedure I got in this forum and replaced with an OEM trans filter. Towed the next day and everything was good. Temp was good and no OD light flashing but I lost 4th gear. All other gears shifted fine, no slipping, just won't go into 4th.
On my way back home the OD light started flashing again and instantly the heat started rising on the trans again. I was finally able to get it into 4th if I let off a little, but as soon as the OD light started flashing I lost it again.
I have a friend of a friend who works for Ford who offered to come over to hook his scanner up. When he hooked it up there was no stored codes from the OD light which we both thought was odd. Took it for a test drive and the OD light started flashing so we could get some readings. He said it showed an error shifting from 1 to 2 and another error when shifting from 3 to 4. I unfortunately forgot to ask him for the specific codes. He tried to read the torque converter info but said my truck was to old and the PID was not supported to read that info.
He said it appeared it was mechanical but without some type of break out box where he can physically shift the gears he couldn't say for sure if it was mechanical or electrical. He did not seem to interested in doing that test for me as he rebuilds trans on the side and said he could rebuild it for me.
It seems my overheating takes place when the OD light starts flashing. It still drives fine and shifts smooth with no issues with or without the OD light flashing. 4th gear usually doesn't work but on a rare occasion it will go into 4th fine which makes me believe it may be electrical.
I am new to diesels but have learned a lot about my 7.3 lately. I recently installed injectors, up pipes, hutch mod, and several other little things so I can get things done myself but am just a DIY'er who can follow good directions. I know very little to nothing about transmissions though.
While working on another issue I did notice there is a large wiring harness that connects up on the driver side of the trans. I unplugged it and was checking the wires and after removing the dirt and crud on it you could see the outside wire sheathing had deteriorated exposing the copper. I bought some liquid electrical tape and sealed everything up. I did look for a replacement wire harness at the time and the one I ordered was very similar but the plug was different so that is why I used the liquid tape at the time. I did not seem to have a problem at the time after fixing it but wanted to mention it here in case that may be an issue.
I also thought swapping out the solenoid pack may fix it. I did not want to drop the trans and send it for a rebuild if I did not need to. I know there are some other sensors associated with the trans like the TSS I think but don't know if they are even related to my issue.
I tried getting the codes from the guy but he does not have them and I can't get him back out. I have an OBDlink device connected to Torque on my phone but I couldn't get it to read trans codes. Could be user error.
I just bought a 2002 F250 7.3 4x4 auto. It had a TS 6 position tuner installed. In stock mode, I got about 11 mpg. I wasn't too impressed. I found that when I left it in 75hp mode, my mileage went up to 21. I drive easy and try to keep shifts at or below 2,000 rpm. The problem is that, when in any position other than stock, my transmission shifts HARD.
My question is: what's going on here? Does the TS change the transmission shifts? Or is the extra bump in power enough to stress the tranny? Based on the factory gauge, the transmission is not running hot. The fluid is nice and pink with no odors or metal shavings. I'd hate to prematurely kill my transmission, but nearly doubling my fuel mileage is hard to pass up.
I have an isspro sensor that I need to install on my 4r100. I have it all installed except for the actual sending unit. My question is where is the best place to put it?
I've watched multiple YouTube videos and it seems a lot of people use the test port on the driver side above the linkage. I found out the hard way that it is a very poor choice of location. A lot of people say that the best way is to drop the pan drill a hole and weld in the bung? I was wondering would it be possible to put it on the "out" line on the transmission oil headed to the cooler? 01 f-350 7.3
Whenever I manually pull my gear selector into first gear it blows one of the 10a fuses (not sure which number). I lose all gauges and accelerator pedal. It's about the fourth fuse from the right on the bottom row.
View 4 RepliesI just came home from work and wanted to show a VW that a 3.2ton SUV could be fast with the right engine.
Ok....I won..........but it was the first time that I recognized a kind of slippage under WOT....and I was in 4WD.
That slippery feeling don't come from the wheels. What to do now besides not to race anymore until repair?
I have an 04 Excursion v10 with 170K on odometer. I am having trouble with transmission shifting into 3rd. When I take off it shifts fine to 2nd, but it will not go into 3rd as it should. I can back off throttle and re accelerate a couple of times and then it will shift fine all day long. The OD light is not blinking but I did scan for codes and there is a soft code P1741 - there is no light on dash illuminated. Just wondering if this sounds like a valve body problem or shift solenoid. I am out of town and can't ohm test solenoids til I get home.
View 4 RepliesMy 4R100 transmission just went out in my 2001 X with a 6.8 Triton in it. I am wondering if a transmission from a 5.4 is the same exact thing since it is more common.
View 12 RepliesOn my previous 1992 F-350, when I serviced the E40D 2WD trans I replaced the filter during a trans service. I read about some filters falling down inside pan causing shifting issues. There is an aftermarket clip sold that holds the filter in the up position and prevents it from falling into pan.
Is the clip also used on the 2WD 4R100? is it the same issue of potentially falling down in pan as was the case with the E40D? Preparing to service my 2003 F-350 2WD 4R100 and install a new filter and want to be sure I have all parts/supplies ready to go.
Today I was 160 miles into a 250 mile drive and things were going well. I was cruising at about 75-80mph and approaching a fairly long hill of moderate grade. As I climbed the hill, my rpm was dropping, as expected before a downshift. The downshift never happened. I kept pushing more pedal and eventually, at maybe 40mph, it downshifted, but still no power. Engine being held at around 2500 rpm. No power no matter how much I pushed. Down hill I was able to resume speed but as soon as the next uphill, same thing, no power, no shift. Pulled over, it was raining hard. Checked for wet fuse box, control modules, pcm, wiring harnesses, everything dry. Checked all fuses. Disconnected battery in hopes of forcing reset, no change.
Checked trans fluid, it was clean, red, full, and unburnt. No visual wires broken or chafed. No odd smells or sounds. Nothing noticeably hot. Truck hits 45mph max on flat ground. I limped it this way for 20 miles. If I push my foot to the floor to really force a downshift, engine will rev freely up to redline with no resistance once it downshifts. If I let the rpm drop down, it will catch and lock back in. Now when I come to a stop the truck has a very lopey and rough idle and will stall once I come to a complete stop. It will stay running if I give it gas. In neutral and park the engine still has a lopey idle and is rough. Will possibly die at times. Sounds smooth and perfect when you rev it in neutral or park. Reacts as it should with no hesitations. No check engine light and no flashing OD light. Will shift into all gears, just moves through them with no power. Let truck sit for 3 hours, issue remains.
Found a puddle under the X last weekend. I thought it was the pan gasket when I got under her but much to my dismay, it was not. Fluid was actually seeping from between the extension unit and the tranny. Would this just be the gasket between the two?
View 5 RepliesI have recently found what sounds like a grinding/vibration issue that occurs between ~2100-~2300 RPM's in my truck. After some googling, I thought it may be the inspection plate being a bit bent/loose. I took the cover off and drove around and the noise still occurred.
Things I have noticed:
-Occurs between 1-2 and 2-3 (had trouble with the other gear changeovers as I just have slow backroads around me to test over my lunch break- can test further in the future)
-Occurs during acceleration and deceleration
-Starts at ~2100 and ends ~2300 RPM
Any thoughts for next steps to diagnose? Truck has ~160k on it and I don't really have many service records (purchased within the past 3k miles and problem just started occurring after this past weekend). Transmission fluid seems to be in decent condition.
Not sure if it would affect anything, but I just got back from my first trip with the Excursion where I actually needed to utilize the 4WD. There was much more aggressive terrain than what it is used to seeing on the pavement. Thought I should mention that as well.
V10, if that matters (I recall reading somewhere that '99 7.3s with the auto had documented torque converter issues that warranted a TSB)....
I am in the middle of the 7.3 to 6.0 swap and wanted to confirm the in and out lines of each cooler. All the links to the websites that were writeups seem to be dead.
View 3 RepliesMy ride 2000 excursion limited v-10 4.10 gears. Now here is the issue when I press the o/d button it kicks down right so far so good! Then i press it again and nothing it wont return to o/d that is unless i lift off the gas. The light turns on and off as it should it just won't reengage o/d with out me lifting?
Shifts fine any other time for example if i am climbing a hill and it kicks to 3rd upon cresting said hill it will shift back to overdrive as it should. It is hard to move the shifter and i have read about the switch on the tranny also read about the wires getting worn through in the column but, as the light goes on and of respectively i fear this is not the case.
My friend told me my trans is shot and it does have 200,000 miles but shifts fine as long as i dont touch the button. I am going to try to take the steering column apart soon and take a peak but it is -15 out right now and yeah that just gonna have to warm up a touch first! In the mean time i will keep reading trying to figure it out! Don't tell me my trans is shot
While fixing some trans leaks on my 6.8. I was tightening a clamp on the center cooler and the lines must have rotted. It snapped off. I was having problems with both attachment points. So guess it's just time. Problem is I cant find a good part number to order one. I can't find it on Rock auto. Here is a picture if it. It's between the front and main radiator.
View 10 RepliesWhen I pull the temp at times gets as high as 220. I do have a Trans. I do not allow the temp to get any higher (Royal Purple Trans Fluid).
I have 2 additional trans B&M coolers and the temp just goes up and up.
What I can do to get the temp down? I also have a ex large tran pan.
Side note: I have the BANKS 6gun kit installed with 4" exhaust. I normally have the 6Gun set at 3 or 4 while pulling.
My # is 360- Nine nine one-35 eight eight.
This line is rusted out on my V10 and leaking fluid.
How hard/expensive is this to fix?
I'm in the middle of doing my exhaust manifolds right now, so I'm hoping it's a simple bolt-on fix.
I've been having some issues shifting and been paying more attention to the gauges. On the first start of the morning since its gotten colder, the trans temp gauge gets warm quite quick just idling and the water temp goes no where for quite a while driving or idling.
The truck essentially doesn't shift normally until the water temp is up, over revs, and shifts are much more abrupt and at higher rpm's (like shift pressure is higher if there is such a thing).
My uneducated thinking I think the sensors are reversed, I would expect the water temp to go up while idling and not the trans temp.