Ford Excursion :: 2002 7.3 4X4 - Runs For 20 Minutes Then Dies And Won't Start
Apr 14, 2015
I have a 2002 Excursion 7.3 4x4 and when it will start is runs for about 20 min then turns off. When I go to start the truck again the theft light flashes rapidly and the glow plug light never turns off. I have tried reprogramming the key to the PATS by leaving it turned for 30 minute then turning it back then starting and that worked for a few times but it doesn't anymore. Additionally I used to be able to take the terminals off the batteries for 20 minutes or so and then it would start after re connecting them but now I have to leave the batteries off for like 24 hours then it will start fine 1 time run for 20 minutes and die and won't start all over again.
I have a snap on solus pro I am borrowing to figure it out but am not very familiar with it, I can only find codes P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid circuit (but mine is 4x4) and U1262 data fault for J1850 there is nothing pulling up under the PATS option in the scanner so I don't know whats wrong or where to even begin, it just shuts off.. The truck runs great till it shuts off, buzz test in the scanner doesn't do anything and neither does the glow plug test. When the truck dies is just turns off like someone turned the key off, no running rough or anything first, I am pretty sure the computer is shutting off the injectors and then locking me out.
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It is a 1991 C1500 2wd, ext cab, short bed 5.7L engine with about 300k miles on it that I have had for a year. Supposedly a different 350 engine and transmission was put in a couple years ago.
This problem has been going on for 2 weeks. I'll start the car up and it runs just fine, no problems. After driving for about 20 minutes, the engine will die while driving, and will not start back up until the next day. I have sat in the car for literally 4 hours patiently waiting for it to start. I'll turn the key and the engine will rotate, but will not start. When someone shows up to give me a jump after the battery gets low, it will not start. I'll go home and go to sleep, and sometime the next day I'll go to my truck, and it will start back up, and I'll drive back home, and I'll make it as long as it takes less than 20 minutes.
It is not just a "morning problem", but a "first time I have started the truck that day" kind of problem. Last week, it happened to me in the mornings. On Saturday, I didn't leave my house until 2pm and the problem happened. Today, I first drove it at 8pm, and the problem happened.
Things I have changed so far (mostly from Autozone):
Starter - burnt it out when it first died 2 weeks ago, now I know not to crank when below 9 volts - lifetime warranty
Spark plugs - no more engine popping or driving with 2 feet - changed last week on Tuesday - AC Delco CR43TS gapped at .035
plug wires - changed all in November, since I noticed one of the old ones was tore - lifetime warranty
Distributor cap and rotor - changed last month when the engine started popping - autozone
Ignition control module- I changed today, I really thought that would fix the problem after speaking with the Autozone guy - lifetime warranty
Ignition Coil - changed last month because of popping
Fuel Filter - changed last Thursday, thinking it was a fuel problem
Here are some of the other symptoms I have been noticing over the last couple months:
Pretty bad gas mileage, I know it is a V8, but it is just as thirsty when I am not carrying anything as when I am pulling a car. A couple months ago, after driving for about 30 minutes or so, the engine would make a "Pfft" noise and would start popping and I would have to drive with 2 feet to keep the engine running.
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My friends car suddenly quit running while he was on a trip, he went through the carwash and as he pulled out the car died. He had it towed to a shop and they charged him $400 to run a few tests and replace the fuel pump relay thinking it would fix the problem, obviously didn't or i wouldn't be typing this. At this point the car cranks but won't start.
This is what the sheet from the shop says, "retest through PCM to locate problem. Ran diagnostics per flow chart. all power, grounds and G28 engine speed spensor output to ECM test good excepting pin T121/86, wire color Lilac/yellow. Signal between camshaft position sensor to ecm. No voltage signal recommend replace PCM and RETEST."
I've put a used ecm (ecu? i've read both terms used) in and the car cranks, starts, gets to idle and dies. If i give it gas after it starts it'll rev up once, then die. I'll call it progress, but i want this damn car out of my driveway.
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Coming home from a road trip we stopped for gas not 5 minutes later the check engine light started flashing. The car was fine as long as you were puching on the gas but as soon as you slowed to a stop it would either die or shudder until I gave it some more gas. Being stupid I figured that I could probably get it home since It was only 25 miles of freeway driving and I wouldn't have to stop until I got near my home. I took it to a mechanic the next day and they said that it was my timing belt.
The next day I get a call from them telling me my timing belt is fine but they discovered that a valve adjuster shim is missing on cylinder 6 and the adjuster cup is jammed down as well as a crack in the locating pin hole so that the pin is moving causing the cam to shift in relation to the cam gear. They suggested I rebuild or replace the cylinder heads and may need to replace the engine. What this could be?
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I've got a cold start problem. Turn it on, wait until glow plug light goes off, hit the starter and it fires right up. It acts like it runs out of fuel and dies. Hit the starter and it fires up and dies again. Third time it stays running. It's not a long crank either. 1-2 seconds at most. Fuel pressure is 59, HPOP immediately goes 1000+, everything looks good. It will start fine the rest of the day until it sits overnight. This is an early 04.
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I have a 2000 E350 boxtruck with a 5.4 auto. The motor is a new rebuilt with about 4000 mile, coils were replaced with motor, injectors were rebuilt with motor.Today (500 miles from home) the truck died. I was going up a slight hill on an interstate. It will still start, but runs very rough and when I put it in gear and step on the gas it dies.
So I had it towed to a garage. While pushing it into the garage I noticed my gas cap was missing. I know it was on 45 min earlier because I got gas. Did I forget to put in back on? probably.. But I wondering if the missing gas cap could cause the truck to run bad,vary bad?
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Early 2004 (IPC under turbo) 163000 miles. Injectors done last summer. Stock. Got a call that this guy died on the highway. By the time I got there (45 minutes?), it started and ran fine. He drove it for ahile, shut it down, drove it some more and it died again. I finally got it in and looked it over and test drove it. It died on me twice (Both times, I was pulled over and stopped. How lucky is that?) When it died, it showed that the Desired ICP dropped to zero just before the actual and the ICP voltage did. I wasn't watching the Regulator%. Cranking, it showed about 210 ICP and .19 ICP voltage. After it sat for maybe 10 minutes, it finally started.
Now, my question is, do I have a ICP problem or an electrical problem? My thinking is an electrical problem because to me, it doesn't seem like the oil would cool off enough in 10 minutes to allow it to become thick enough to build pressure again. I also noticed that the ICP dropped down to as low as about 590 at low idle once the oil temp was up to about 190, but it wasn't always that low - usually it was around 625ish. I have it idling right now and recording Sync now, but of course it's running fine. If my sync drops out, I need to change the Cam sensor or crank sensor, correct? If it doesn't drop out, I have a ICP problem. Does that sound right?
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So I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L. My car will drive 1-2 miles then it dies. After I let it sit for about 10 minutes it starts up again. I am getting to the end of what I know to do. I have replaced the ECU, Main relay, most of the sensors, Fuel pump, and fuel filter. When I bring it in to get the codes for it all I get is sensor faults even though I have replaced them. I am going to let it run for a little while and see if I can feel any heat from any relays under the dash. I like this car but not sure what else I can do.
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I have a 89 dodge dakota and it starts sometimes and other times it don't start at all. When it does start and runs for a few min it will randomly die and when I try to start it after it dies it wont start back up. Me and my dad just fixed the starter relay yesterday and it started every time after that, now today it wont start. New coil, fuel pump, and fuel filter are new.
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I have a 93 Camry that quit on the highway. No spark, crack in condensor replaced distributer. Still not run. Rotor not turning, replaced timing belt, main engine fuse heating up replaced that. Now it starts right up but only runs 10 minutes. Then won't restart until several hours go by then it will start again. Runs like a champ when it starts.
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My 02 6.8 v10 4x4 4.30 X has a big problem. I was driving on sand and all of the sudden it stopped and dies. Had no trans fluid and a dead battery. After paying $450 to get it off the beach i filled the trans fluid and got a jump and it runs. When put in gear wether in 4WD or not it does NOT move. Only when put in neutral and pulled ... red dot is pavement, blue is where i got to, star is where i broke down on the way out...smh
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When car dies driving or idle- will not start for appx 30min after - cranks over immediately like it wants to, but will not actually start for about 30minutes... is this a sensor?
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I've got a 2002 Ford Sports Trac that won't start ! It will crank till battery dies but is not getting fuel. I have had it towed 4 times in the past year. of the 4 times,this last time it wont start. Every time that I have had it towed back to my house and dropped in the driveway it has started up with no problems. It will run for a few months or more.This last time it would not.
Could this be an electrical problem.Maybe loose ground somewhere or something else. Would like to rule out some things before investing in a fuel filter or fuel pump. Would hate to buy new FuelPump and that not be the problem. Can't find free wiring diaghrams for this issue.
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1997 ranger 3.0 auto.. took it to a shop to have some work done. trans fluid valve covers leaking. had no real problems with the truck.
now, first start in the AM and only them, it runs lean and dies. second start Ok rest of the starts during the day OK ...
replaced ICV, tosses no codes. fuel pressure Ok ...
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So I went out this morning to start the truck up like I do every morning. It cranked once, and didn't start, which is somewhat normal. second crank it started right up, which is normal, then after about 2 minutes, it seemed like the rpms were bouncing and the engine got a little more slower and louder, then it dipped below 500, then stalled. After that moment nothing. It just cranks. Now it was VERY low on fuel, I've been this low on fuel and never had anything like this happen, so my neighbor took me up to the station and I bought 2 gallons. came back, still nada. I went out after letting it sit on the block heater for about an hour and noticed a small puddle of fuel under the truck on the passenger side. I went to start it and the fuel gauge went up to a half tank. cranked, no start. then again and it went up again but slowly started creeping back down.
Now the kicker, I have very limited knowledge of diesel engines, or gas for that matter. So if my intuition is right, this is probably going to be a learning experience for me... what should I check first guys? Its plugged in right now but I am sure that's not gonna fix it.. I am gonna change the oil first since it needs it, I bought shell rotella triple t 15w40 which im assuming is ok. last winter It was leaking fuel when it was really cold out but that was it, just leaking a bit and then after spring it went away. I know I should have fixed it when it started but I have an extreme anxiety to letting any mechanic near my vehicles and just about as much anxiety trying to fix it myself. I'm at a loss for what to do, I'm a pro with computers but this truck scares the crap out of me, I'm terrified I'll do something worse.
2002 Ford F250 Powerstroke 7.3 4x4, 218,000 Miles....
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I have an 84 Bronco II with a fuel injected 302 in it. I was out wheeling with it the other day, and it was doing great until about 3:00. I got out to see that my brothers radiator had sprung a leak. When I got back in my Bronco and put it in gear, it just stalled. I started it back up and it ran for about 10 seconds then shut off. It kept doing that over and over again. Finally, I got tired of it and had someone get my truck and tow me out of there. Why would it run for about 10-15 seconds only and then shut off like it was getting no fuel (yes, it does have fuel in it)? I have a feeling it might be fuel pressure regulator valve because it was acting up a while ago..
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Changed CPS,EBPV sensor and tube,replaced IPR&fuel pressure regulator,batteries 100%,HPOP full,oil level full,fuel in bowl and lift pump runs(have not tested pressure but has good flow).After replacing IPR truck started quickly and idled for 15 minutes,decided to try a test drive ,truck stalled after reversing 10 ft as I shifted into first gear.Now no start!!Losing my mind.
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I just purchased a 1989 F250 with a 5.8 motor. Great truck for its age. Ive owned other Ford trucks in the past and my Dad had them as a kid. Love them.
When I bought the truck from the 2nd owner it had a problem so I bought this truck with the problem figuring with my past knowledge I could fix it. Not the case. When I got the truck it would start fine and run really great but when it got warm it seems it would die and I would have to wait till it was cooled down to start back up and again it would run fine. Well the problem got worse and worse and now it wont run at all.
It will run on starter fluid so that leads me immediately to the fuel pumps. I say that plural because none of them will run it seems. I did a fuel pressure test at the shrader valve at the top of the motor on the fuel rail and I get no pressure at all when I turn the key. The relay in the engine compartment seems to be working to as I can hear it. I put a new on of those on to to be sure. Leads me back to the pumps again. I replaced the external pump on the fuel rail and I know thats working. I replaced the fuel filter to while I was there.
Is it possible to have BOTH fuel pumps in the front and rear tanks go at once? Seems unusual. My other F150 with dual tanks worked great and when the back tank pump went I could just switch it over to the front tank.
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My 2002 F250 7.3 randomly dies while driving and seems to only be when I hit a bump no matter the size. I have checked the valve cover harness connector outside of the valve covers and they look fine. I checked the ECM connection took it off and reconnected it.
Changed the CPS censor twice, checked the ICP sensor, checked continuity of all the glow plugs through the valve cover harness. Checked the fuel pump, checked all related fuses, changed the fuel filter, checked glow plug relay, batteries hold good voltage and were recently upgraded to bigger batteries.
Engine runs just a little rough but not enough to be of concern. Air filter is clean and oil level is perfect. What could possible be causing my truck to randomly die when it hits a bump and not start back right away??? This truck is new to me and its the first diesel engine I have ever owned.
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The problem started several months ago. At first it would only happen once in a while and would only last about 5 mins. The first time it happened I had it towed to my shop and it ran fine when it got there. Go figure. They told me they couldn't diagnose it if it wasn't acting up while they had it. Makes sense. But it never does it when I'm there for routine maintenance. Now it's doing it for twenty minutes at a crack. It's usually fine around town unless I get stuck in stop and go traffic. When it usually acts up is when I get on the road between work and home.
Every time I stop for gas I have to wait for it to decide it wants to start again. All of this is putting heavy wear on my starter. I changed the oxygen sensor (position no. 01), because that was the only error code that showed up. That didn't fix it. My mechanic says he thinks the next best step might be the cam and/or crank sensor. If not that, then he thinks we should change out the brain. Somebody else said it might be the fuel pump goin out. because I travel too far for work and I can't afford to fix things that probably won't solve the problem.
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I have a 1996 ford taurus lx 3.0 v6 engine dohc about 150000 miles..when i start the car about 5 mins the car dies..so i start it back up then it dies again.. So I start it back up then i keep my foot on gas the car stays running as soon i take my foot off gas it dies. I did have a new fuel pump in..
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