Ford Excursion :: 2001 - Will Different Tire Tread Depth Hurt Rear Axle?
Jul 10, 2013
Proud new owner of a 2001 Excursion with 7.3. The gentleman I bought the X from had four Michelin LTX M/S2's. 285/75/R16. Looks like they had plenty of tread left so I was happy, until I got home and noticed a large slice in the side wall of the right rear.( approx 2" long and 1/4"deep.). I will be towing a 8000 lb trailer with three kids. Went to big tire store and they replaced one tire. They said it would be fine with different depth. (Exact same tire). When I got home I looked at tread, has noticeable difference in depth. Looks like 3.5MM diff from what I measured. My question is this, will this be ok or will this possible damage the rear end having slightly diff overall size?
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I have had a Clicking noise on my 2000 x 4x4 since 6 months coming from the front right side tire noticeable over rough roads or over bumps and I went on a journey starting with ford dealer to almost all well recognized service centers and every body says your front suspension is ok and no one seems to know where it is coming from. I thought it was my hub bearing since it fails almost every year but when I was changing the bearing, I noticed a big Excessive play in axle.
See video : My AXLE Shaft - YouTube
Also I noticed oil mixed with grease the grease is prawny with a reddish sort of color or that is some thing else.
See photos ....
Any way after replacing the hub Bearing with a used one and butting every thing together I went on a test drive. Noticed that the vehicle drive line is not right the car seems to wonder and the noise still there so i didn't get far i came right back and park my x then a funny burned oil smell was present.
Is it some thing i did wrong or is it bad situation gone worst ?
Items Checked Or Replaced In The Last 4 Months ( trying to fix)
Tie Rods. Ok
ball joints. Ok
suspension front and rear. Ok
Front stabilizer bar. Ok
control arm bushings. Ok
stabilizer bar bushings Ok
steering linkage. Ok
brake pads. A new front set installed
Rotors . Both front changed with oem parts
body mounts + sub-frame mounts. Some replaced
shock absorbers . New 4 set installed
- Rear Monroe 911176 Reflex Light Truck Shock Absorber
- Front Monroe 911175 Reflex Light Truck Shock Absorber
tires. Replaced with a new set off four
Hub Bearing. Second hand (that's when I saw it)
Spare Parts waiting list (Ordered):-
O ring ord part # 4C3Z-1K106-AA
(knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB).
and some other dust seals which i can't recall.
I am looking for how to fix axle play and get red of the noise. (this is a video from you tube for clearance)....
F250 wheel bearing, is this bad or not? - YouTube
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About 5K miles after putting on 18x8.5 rims with 235-40 tires noted bad reverberating droning tire noise and noticed stairstep pattern of excessive wear on inside tread blocks, equal on all 4 wheels. Is this just from going from OEM ET47 to ET35? Is camber adjustment indicated and is camber adjustable also on the rear wheels? (Of course, noise and reverberation gone when OEM wheels put back on)
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I had the rear axle seals replaced less than 1000 miles ago. Now the axle is getting whiny. First I thought maybe that the tires made noise but now I'm pretty convinced it comes from the axle.
With a seal replacement, what do they do that might impact the axle - over tighten the bearings?
I also had the rear diff fluid replaced - perhaps they put in the wrong stuff...
Should I replace fluid and see if that stops or should I simply take it to the dealer and let them deal with it?
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When I bought my 2008 accent I had to replace the two front tires in order to pass inspection. I think the garage didn't notice that my rear tires were actually a different size. The entire summer season I had been running two 205/45/16's on the front and two 205/55/16's on the rear.
After the winter I took them to a different garage to take off my winters and they refused to put my summers back on.... is this a major issue to run the 205/55/16's on the rear axle and the 205/45/16's on the front axle? I know they fit but is there a real safety concern or the garage covering their own bases.
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Finally pulling the trigger on some springs so I can get this work done, Tousely prices were great on the W's compared to local dealers. Here are some questions.
1. I am planning to go with the W springs up front.
2. Can I still use the B for the rear mod, or do I need C's to keep it level? (Or F's)
3. Do I need blocks in the rear, or just the springs on the axle?
4. Do I need the 2" shackle up front?
5. I have dual Fox shocks that came with the ex when I bought it. The prior owner said they ran a little rough. Are they able to be re-valved, or is it cheaper to go with Bilstein?
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I think I ran a wheel bearing dry on the front end of my 2001 Ford Excursion. Do I need to replace the outer axle stub when I replace the hub/bearing assembly? Where's the least expensive place to buy one?
I think this has the Dana 50.
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2005 4wd excursion. I have a leaking rear seal on passenger side.
I have the hub assembly off. I'm down to the spindle. My old seal came out in pieces. There's either a piece of the old seal or another seal on the back of the spindle.
Are there two seals? This what looks like a seal still on the spindle against the plate on the back...
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I have noticed a few drips coming from the rear axle input shaft where the drive shaft connects. It has only done it once and there is no residue on the trailer hitch so I know it didn't dump everything on the road. If change this seal, how difficult is it and do you have any information which might make it easier.
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While diagnosing an issue with my ebrakes I found the drivers rear axle seal was leaking coating the ebrakes in gear oil, replaced the seal. Decided to pull the differential fill plug and check to make sure it was full - drained a good bit out pulling the hub to replace the seal. To my horror this is what I find when I pull the plug. First photo is as it came out on the magnet - second is after a clean up. What is it? I am almost afraid to drop the cover....
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Ripped out rear heater core lines. Bashed up body
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I've got a 2000 Ex that goes through rear tires like they're candy. I am running 37" tires and they wear very quickly on the inside. I do have a positrac rear end but i don't think it's functioning as the last time i tested it only one tire spun out. (not sure if that makes a difference)
So since this is a solid rear axle there's not really any alignment that can cause the insides to wear prematurely is there? The front tires wear fine with no issues. Anything I should check? Right now the insides are bald again so I'm going to have to buy another set of tires but since this last set lasted me about 8 months Id really like to see if i can solve this problem before putting new tires on it.
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I'm 650 miles from home in WV and the truck overheated and I saw coolant leaking from the area above the passenger side rear tire.
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I picked up an '01 F-350 standard cab and bed plow truck for parts and am preparing to swap the rear axle into my E99 F-250 SB unless someone gives me good reason to just swap the carrier. I want the LS differential. I will also do hutch/harpoon on the tank so I figure that bed removal will make both jobs easier. Once I have both beds off I can give things a visual and see what lines and cables need to be changed out as well. I believe that there is a difference in the passenger's side caliper but I am not 100% on that and I don't know what I will need to change if anything. I am hoping that my drive shaft will remain.
Thus far I have gotten to rotted bed off of the donor truck. The bolts would not come out and I had misplaced my cutoff wheel so out came the torch. In the process of blowing the heads off of the bolts I also blew some holes in the bed but didn't care, it's scrap. Fortunately I did not blow any molten steel onto the fuel tank. I was able to lift the bed far enough to reach the light plugs in the rear and disconnect them without damaging them. The large one that is still attached to the frame goes to the trailer lights and could have stayed connected. The two smaller ones with ends up feed the tail lights and license plate lights, they have to be disconnected.
The bed is shot so I just hooked chains into the rear pockets and drug it off with the front end loader. I did have to get off a couple of times and unsnag it from the frame. Oops, and to cut off the fuel tank fill and vent hoses.
The bolts are extremely rusty and wouldn't budge so I cut them off.
The organ recipient has a spray on bed liner that I had to cut through to get to the bed bolts, the heads look like new and the bolts look like they will all come out for me.
And this is what the nuts and clips look like that mount the bed to the frame.
Yep, there is plenty of rust.
Also, I found two safety cables wrapped around the bed frame and main frame mid bed that will need to be disconnected before bed removal. These are on the E99 SB only, not on the '01 standard bed.
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I HAVE A 2001 10 CYL EXCURSION with Pirelli Scorpion 265/75R 16 AT tires Istill can't get a good answer on correct tire Pressures-door plate says 38/45 tire wall says 80psi max. I've seen guys post 55/65 for non towing then maybe 60/70 for towing. Currently my steering kinda sloppy-inflations were messed up 55-52 front and 50-47 rear- also manual hubs somehow were in lock pos.Just had ball joints done but mechanic said didn't need alignment.
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So rolling down I29 and its cold and the wind is howling. Rear tire goes out sidewall blow. Thinking load rating of C is not enough for the EX?
Anyways not a big deal cause I'm smart! I checked my spare and all the stuff I need to change it cause i'm prepared. Go to put the tire iron on that I removed from under the hood perfect fit too. Guess what, it is way to small for the lugs. Luckily I had earned some karma points the day before working for a guy with a 02 F250 7.3 who's alternator died. A guy in a suburban stopped and his wrench was close enough to crack the nuts.
So after searching and not finding much my two questions are. Any replacement for the factory tire iron that bolts under the hood? Is there another vehicle other then an Ex I can take it from? I like the idea of it being there bolted down under the hood.
What load rating is everyone running and or recommends. I noticed my spare was an F lol which is far from C. My EX is 7.3 and She was loaded heavy with black friday goods.
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I'm trying to find to rear axle ratio on my 2001 F-350 dually and the axle code seems to be missing.
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I have am 01 6.8 two wheel Limited. about 150K. My question is about both the front tires having more wear on both the inner and outer edges. The inner is a bit more but not by much.
I have been keeping very close track of my air pressure because I know the usual suspect is low air pressure but I am running 75psi and the max sidewall reads 80psi. I have never had it below 72psi. The truck tracks and steers down the road very nice with no drift or pull to either side. wheel balance is good.
Front end align is good. I have no issues with how she drives down the road. Everything seems to be checking out to be in spec..?
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The right rear wheel is getting hot on my 2001 ltd 4x4 7.3. It also has some smell of brakes. That wheel had a new caliper, and pads as well as a new line about 2 years or 15K ago. What should I look at first? Could the emergency brake be sticking?
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Upgrade the sub in 2011 and new Super Duty has measured the depth of the factory enclosure or could measure it for me? I am trying to figure out just how deep a sub will fit in the enclosure.
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Have a 95 aero E4wd. Have replace driver side cv axle and drove about 8 miles then the outer joint broke. Had mech change cv axle and drove about 2 miles and the inside broke.. Same mech replace it and drove 3 mile and heard like rubber on metal like a flat tire. The cv axle did not break and won't turn when in gear. Back to shop with aero. Lifted on lift and jacked up front and rear. Turned the driver side and the passenger turned with it also it turned easy. Started it up and placed in gear, all were rotation except driver side , it was hung up. What should be fixed on diff?
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