Ford Excursion :: 2001 - When Brake Applied It Goes To Left?
Sep 12, 2016
I recently purchased a 2001 Ford Excursion V10 Gas with 208k miles and have a problem with it. The problem Im having is that when I brake, it tends to go to the left. At first I thought it was a bad caliper so I took it to a local shop and I feel they ripped me of, they replaced brake lines, calipers, rotors, brakes, I even bought new tires as it needed some of this stuff anyways but the problem still there. In the end I was told they could not fix the issue and that I had a bad ABS module and only Ford could fix that. So I then took it to Ford who took 2 days with my truck and did who knows what then was told that the problem is a bad 'Hydraulic Control Unit' and it was going to cost me $1100 to get fixed. I have no clue what that is?
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So on our trip up here I experienced a strange problem. Normally when I apply my brakes my trailer brakes kick in via the controller. This time when I apply the brakes I'm only getting my truck brakes. I can still use the brake controller manually to slow down but it's worrying. What is going on.
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Well just called it quits from working on the truck tonight. Had some issues with my brakes going to the floor and pulling to the right some, so I went to auto zone and bought all new pads. Didn't think it was time yet because I just replaced the rotors, pads, calipers, maybe 20,000 miles ago. When I got home and everything pulled apart I looked at the pads on the truck and they still had 60% life. I looked closely and noticed that the guider pins on the caliper bracket (front drivers side) were seized. I figured this is what was causing my truck to pull. Looked on the passenger side and it looked similar. Went back to auto zone and returned the pads and bought new brackets for both sides. I got the drivers side replaced and working and all seemed well. I got to the passenger and had a hell of a time getting the pistons on the caliper to compress so I could get it off. Once I finally got it, I noticed the pins on that side were not seized. I bought 2 sets of guider pins so I took the old ones out and greased up the new ones and installed them. Put everything back together and took the truck for a drive. Everything seemed normal at first, but once I got on the highway and hit the brakes, my truck pulled to the left. HARD.. Im assuming this is because of the pistons on the passenger side caliper I was having a problem with, not having the piston compress all the way causing my truck to pull. While I was looking at the caliper, I also noticed what '"looked" like a grease fitting, and also a bleeder valve a few inches away from it. Am I crazy, or is that fitting for bleeding the brake lines also...?
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Have been getting stuck and not releasing when brake is applied? I know there is a rod that connects and releases this for brakes or something but can it be replaced easy or just bypassed which I would prefer ?
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Notice a clunk noise when brake applied and first it seems when the car is turning right, but now I think as long as the surface is uneven it would do that as long as the brake is applied at the same time. It's a 2014 Sport Ltd.
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I have a 2012 Rav4 and I have been hearing a creaking/groaning sound coming from the front left brake when I apply it lightly. It gets worse as it heats up. It sounds exactly like the brake in this youtube video.
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I have a 2012 dodge caravan bought new. After about 6000 miles the left rear brake began making a grinding noise, only when applied, every time the car sat more than a few hours, that goes away after about 2-3 miles. It began in winter and continues into the warm and dry days of spring now with 9000 miles total. Had it to dealer twice and inspection found no malfunction so they say its from rust build up because it goes away all the time and is nothing to worry about. It does not occur with the other wheels. My niece has the same van, in same geographic area and does not have this problem. Does this selective rust build up explanation make sense? Previously burned with bad brakes on a caravan, so am skeptical.
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2001 F-350 / 7.3L / 147K ... What are some symptoms of the master cylinder going out? And is there a such thing as a rebuild kit anymore? The pedal has been getting spongier & spongier over the past months. Truck still stops O.K. but you have to brake earlier than I used to. Pedal can go almost to the floor. Pedal continues to go to floor as pressure is applied. Does not go to floor though.
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Recently I noticed that three LEDs in my 05 SantaFe's high mount stop light glow even without the brake applied. When the brake pedal is depressed, the entire light glows as it should. But only the three LEDs glow at all times.
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Just got a 03 Used Santa Fe 2 weeks ago... 79,000 miles
1. Car "lurches" when at a complete stop w brake fully applied out of no where, so strong that I could easily rear end someone...
2. told dealership car was pulling to right, they said (after some teeth pulling) that a ball joint was replaced and Santa Fe's don't need alignments but in MA this is part of state inspection and considered a safety issue, needless to say, they say I have to pay for it...
3. Rear brakes seem to be hanging up...
All I want is the issues fix.
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I have a 2001 ex. 4x4 6.8 v10. I have been having vacuum issues and brake issues lately. My front brakes seem to be sticking, some times they drag some times the don't squeeze when I step on the brake causing uneven wear and pulling when I stop. Also feels like I have no power assist. I also have a vacuum issue with the auto setting on the hubs, they don't engage I have to manually lock them and sometimes my a/c stays on defrost. And my cruise control doesn't work, the light comes on and love done the self check but it doesn't show anything is wrong. Could I have a bad brake booster?
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I have a 1962 ford falcon ranchero. The driver side brake light, goes out when brake pressure is applied, but is on when lights are fully on, but even then brake pressure is applied and goes out. Right brake light is fine. And turn signal on right works. But driver side back light goes out when brake pressure is put on and when turn signal is put for left side. Right makes a turn noise left side doesn't. I recently replaced the turn signal switch. So its brand new. But older wires every where else. No cuts anywhere on wires. Fine. And replaced the bulb also.
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2001 Ex limited 4x2 w/50k miles-- The parking brake pedal will not depress...at all....not even a millimeter. Feels like it is "locked".
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I recently took delivery of a new 2012 F250. It was a cab chassis, we had a utility bed and lift gate installed from the upfitter along with heavy rear springs. From day one the truck would pull left when the brakes were applied. The brake pedal also feels mushy, not firm. It will firm up when I pump it. I could also smell burning around the left front of the truck when I would get out of the cab. Hot brake smell. Took it to the dealer with only 400 miles on it and they replaced the front pads and turned the rotors, and gave it back. In relatively few miles the problem was right back again.
Took it back to the same dealer last week with 1200 miles on it now. This time they say they replaced the rotors. I went and picked it up it this morning. Within 5 miles drive of the dealership I can tell the brakes are still bad. Now, it will kind of do a "head fake" when the brakes are applied, pulling slightly left or right, before deciding which way it wants to pull. It will pull right or left now during firm braking. And the brakes were stinking by the time I had it back to them. I turned around and took it right back to them again. Brand new F250?
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2001 Ex 7.3 4x4 with 4" lift (6" with 37" Pro Comp tires)
All new front end steering components.
All new Shocks (bilstein)
All tires properly inflated to same PSI
All new brake rotors, calipers, caliper mounts, and pads.
When under hard acceleration the vehicle pulls to the left and I have to compensate by steering to the right. Under deceleration the vehicle pulls to the right and I have to compensate by steering to the left.
I am about to change all four brake lines to Braided Stainless Steel lines, replace all leaf spring bushings with polyurethane, and install a rear anti-sway bar. I'm going through this methodically enough or am I just building a brand new truck one part at a time?
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Just noticed this tonight. While making a left turn, I had the blinker on and had the brakes applied and noticed the indicator on the instrument cluster was blinking. Once off the brakes, it took it a few seconds for it to resume blinking.
When I got home, I checked to see if the right signal did the same and it did. I also checked the rear lights and when the signal is on and the brakes are applied the light does not blink nor does it brighten up like they're supposed to when the brakes are applied, it stays dim as if both the blinker and brakes are off.
I did a quick search. I have not checked any of the bulbs or wiring, but I'm thinking it might be the turn signal switch/ lever. What the problem might be?
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I have a 2003 hyundai elantra gt. All the lights and bulbs work, except for the rear left brake light. I've replaced it twice now, and used a bulb I know was good, so the problem is not a bulb. I checked the fuse, and the fuse is ok as well. When I measure at the bulb socket with an ammeter I get around 20 mA which I assume is too small and I assume there is a loose wire somewhere.
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For some reason my back brake lights on my 2006 santa fe are all goofy. The two in the rear window work fine. The turn signals work fine but the right and left brake lights don't work. I replaced the10 am fuses and the lamps. It did not work at all. I don't understand how the top lights would work but the right / left wont. I even tried the flashers and the brake lights are not on either. I don't see a fuse in the box in the engine compartment labeled for rear brakes, so I am at a loss.
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I have a 1997 Ram 1500 when I apply the brakes the truck pulls to the left for a spit second then goes straight.
Example: doing about 40 MPH take hands off the wheel and slam on the brakes, truck pulls immediately to left, like I did a quick lane change then goes straight.
About a month ago I replaced a section of brake line going to left rear wheel.
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2010 F-150 King Ranch. Randomly when turning left, it feels like the left front brake is engaging and it sounds like your anti-lock brakes when you come to a stop on slush or snow. The truck slows with your foot still on the gas, Saturday it came to a complete stop before it released.
I have had it to 2 Ford dealerships, the first could not get the symptom to occur on a test drive and told me there was nothing they could do because they did not now what to look at.
The dealer I bought it from got it to act up, replaced the IWE 2 weeks ago and 3 days later was still doing same thing. My wife dropped the truck at the dealer again Weds.morning, she told them it did it on the way there. I called at 4:30 to check and they said they drove it 2 times and it did not act up.
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I have started hearing a noise with my brakes. First thing in the morning when I back up and apply the brakes, I get a clunk or pop noise from the left front wheel. It will pop again once I move forward and hit the brakes. It only does the noise one time when I first apply the brakes in either direction. Once the brakes have been used out on the road and are warm, there is no noise when changing directions. I've had this noise in another car I used to have and it was caused by the aftermarket brake pads not being exactly large enough and there was slight pad shifting in the caliper. Being this is a new car and has the OEM pads, I would hope there would be no pad shifting or movement in the calipers.
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