Ford Excursion :: 2001 V10 - Slight Miss When Cold / No Codes
Jul 20, 2017
I have a 2001 Excursion with the V-10. Two weeks ago, the upper nipple on the radiator cracked and I overheated. Was towed home and replaced the radiator with a quality aftermarket one. I then drove to the whiz wash and cleaned the antifreeze off of the engine.
Immediately I noticed a slight "miss" when cold, particularly when backing out of my driveway. I have no lights on the dash and it is throwing no codes. The miss gets much better (almost gone) when the truck is warmed up.
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2003 passat wagon 2.8l v6 with p0421 and p0431...a slight miss as well...
Cold start up is fine and initial driving. After car warms, there is a slight shutter at idle (just occasionally) and upon acceleration with low rpms. (It really feels like a miss) Went to AutoZone and came back with the codes above. I thought it might need a new coil but now I am not really sure. I want my performance back but seriously doubt cats are bad at the same time.
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What to look for. 2001 escape 3.0 starts and runs but it has a miss and no codes came up yet . the engine will rev up but it really takes time to idle down . don't matter if its cold or hot it just don't want to drop to idle as fast as it should.
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2005 Escape 3.0 with 160k miles. Slight miss under cruise, goes away under slight throttle. No service history known about vehicle. Best to replace spark plugs and coils with Motorcraft parts? And the intake gaskets too? Suggestions for correct plugs?
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I've been chasing a problem all summer. Began with crappy batteries dying intermittently. I replaced the batteries, FICM, finally cleaned EGR valve and replaced ICP with pigtail. The problem is still persistent. Basically a rough idle, puff of whit smoke on cold startup, rough running at around 1500 rpms( driving at 50 mph). The ICP was soaked in oil so i was confident replacing it would finally cure my issues. It actually got worse with the rough idle turning to a surging idle and quite rumbly at 50 mph speed. I guess its time to look to injector issues but i thought id check if after replacing icp/ cleaning egr. I also have a slight exhaust leak at turbo out that i can see. The clamp is not seated properly. This after turbo connection to exhaust.
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I have a 2013 F150 4x4 with a 6.2 and it has a slight miss at idle. It's done this since new and over the 20kms it has now I've been given the round around on it from 2 different dealers. I'm told there is no code so they can't do anything. I'm thinking maybe a coil? Or perhaps injector?
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Truck has a slight miss at 65k when in 6th at low rpm and also when sitting still. Wanting to replace the spark plugs. The truck has Motorcraft CYPS 12Y in it which shows up as SP519. No one carries those anymore. What's the next best thing?
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I have a 2004 f150 with 135000 miles. Bought it a few months ago. I notice after the truck is up to operating temperature it seems to have a slight miss, you can kind of feel it when sitting in the truck. Cant really hear it. Outside the truck I am hearing a ticking sound. I have changed the spark plugs on the passenger side, because that's where the ticking sound was coming from.
Come to find out the last spark plug in the back was finger loose. Got them changed, on that side. Still have the miss after warmed up along with the ticking. Few weeks fast forward I put all 8 new COP on. Same results. I also have changed the oil and filter both with Motorcraft. Where I could look? I also have a 1 year unlimited mile power-train warranty.
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I'm looking at a 2001 Excursion with 242k miles. Truck is all stock, and everything checks out well. The only thing is there is a slight vibration at idle, that increases quite a bit when the engine is revved to about 12-1500rpm. Ran a CCT, and #8 was flagged. I know that can be somewhat normal depending on the CPS, right? Otherwise the truck is smooth, and in great shape. Should I be concerned about what feels like a slight miss on #8?
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So on Christmas day I turned on my truck and all was well. I had family over and we were going up to my range to do some Christmas day target shooting. I let it warm up for about 20 minutes we then loaded up and headed out.
When I locked the hubs I soon found out my 4WD was not working? Due to the cold? It worked fine last time out and now not at all. I decided to forge ahead in 2WD, Sure enough we got stuck in deep snow. I had to gun the engine off and on to get out and as soon as I broke free (CHECK ENGINE) appeared for the first time ever. Worst Christmas ever!
The truck is running fine, full power and no irregular noise from the engine. So I ran the test and P0303, P0307 misfires on cylinder 3 and 7 appeared. This whole post is about me doing a full tune up this spring the truck is parked since Christmas and will stay parked until I do a full tune up.
New Plugs.
New Wires.
New Coils.
New oil filter and oil. Changed last year with less than 2000 miles but changing anyways.
Flush radiator and add new radiator fluid.
Clean air filter (Aftermarket, It is washable).
Is there anything I'm missing? Also, any tips on figuring out the 4WD issue?
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I posted a while back about my 04 5.4 having an issue at idle. I did all the normal things like replace coil, spark plug, etc etc. No change to the issue. It still acts as though it's misfiring on a cylinder and I get codes P0306 and P0316. Finally took it to ford and had a diagnostic check ran. Everything on the top end was in working order. The tech even put a known working coil on 6 and nothing changed. I was told that it's either an intake or valve issue on that cylinder. But no definite answer to problem.
Fast forward to yesterday. I got a wild hair at lunch and went out and started truck. Pulled injector plug off of 6. No change to the way it was running. I did the same for 5, 7, 8, 1, and 2. All of which made a big difference in the way it ran. It was obviously misfiring with no fuel to cylinder. This gave me the idea to swap 5 and 6 when I got home to see if the issue followed the injector from 6. I did NOT. I pulled the plug on 5 and got the obvious change in the way it ran. So there is definitely something going on at cylinder 6 that I cannot figure out.
PCM, bad intake, bad valve? I'm not rich so a trip to ford for repair is gonna have to wait. Truck seems to run fine when driving except for slight hesitation during acceleration.
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2003 F150 5.4 72852 miles
I have a Rough Idle & sometimes a hesitation or stumble on acceleration. I cleaned the MAF & IAC motor & Air & Fuel Filters are new. I got a 20890 scanner & ran test 6 53 as suggested in many posts by BlueGrass. Here are My results & what They Convert to.
1 00F5 .3675
2 0051 .1215
3 0000
4 0000
5 00A3 .2445
6 0000
7 0000
8 0000
I'm guessing the cop's are ok & probably need plugs? I was hoping to just swap a coil. Too cold to do plugs & truck won't fit in my garage.
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I just purchased a 2005 elantra with 133k on it and she runs fine other than a slight erratic idle. And by slight I mean it will jump about 50-100 rpm idling and every blue moon it will jump up to 250 rpm sitting there. After idling for a while my CEL came on with the following codes.
P0507 idle air control rpm high
P0506 idle air control rpm low
P0170 fuel trim malfunction bank 1
P0121 throttle position sensor
What could be causing this? I took the iac off and cleaned it with maf cleaner but it didn't work.
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I bought a 04 FX-4 a couple months ago with 102k on it. Brought it back to selling dealer, they replaced #1/#6 coils, its ran great till this past week. Again it has stumbled a couple times this week. It only seems to have the miss at idle (comes and goes) take off from light, within 50 feet its running like a champ again. I cleared the codes (disconnect battery)and now it seems my idle is not steady, it fluctuates. Is the idle a product of the codes?
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I just purchased a 2003 F250 Super Duty with the 6.8L V10 It has really high miles on it as it was a landscaping companies fleet truck. I'm sure that it was pretty well serviced as it has 300K miles on it and it's still running pretty decent.
I picked up the truck and I have to get the smog done soon. It idles with what I can only describe as a slight miss and it runs and drives great. seems to have plenty of power for the miles that's on it.
There is no active CEL on but I scanned the OBDII system and found a P0171 Lean bank 1 code in the pending codes list of the scanner. I guess this year engine doesn't have an EGR Valve or DPFE sensor because I've looked high and low for it and there non existent on this engine.
I've checked for vacuum leaks by spraying brake cleaner or carb cleaner all over the place and it makes no difference and all the vacuum lines and connections look okay.
When it's running It does sound like a vacuum leak right behind the top of the plastic throttle body but I can't find it, I don't know if this big *** engine just sucks that much air or what.
Like I said I need to smog this thing soon and I don't want it to fail if it's missing or has another issue. The fuel injectors look new and one coil pack looks like it's a replacement...
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Had this truck a few years now, and it has always had a slight miss/hesitation and maybe a few codes. The timing chain skipped a tooth and the truck was down for about a year. I have 4 other trucks, so it wasn't a big deal. I finally had time to put a new oil pump, chains, guides, tensioners, phasers etc. The truck actually runs very well and quiet. But, now misses far more than I remember it doing.
When driving in town constant at 25-30 mph occasionally it will loose power for a brief moment(<1 second) and then be fine, the security light on the dash turns on for a few seconds. It drives at 55-65 just fine, unless I am going up a hill or something else increasing the load.
2004 5.4 3v 2wd
CEL-
P0453 (fuel tank pressure issue)
P0351 (ignition coil a primary/secondary circuit malfunction)
P0356 (ignition coil f primary/secondary circuit malfunction)
The coil packs are new, and I have injectors on order. Also found this thing on the back of the motor, it connects to the fuel rail on the drivers side. Where it should go. I looked on my other trucks. But my other 04-4wd has a box by the battery it connects to, but mine doesn't have any of that stuff. And my 08 doesn't have anything like this at all.
And a pix of the truck in question.
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Early 99 7.3. Runs ok has a slight miss at idle however every injector when unhooked makes a change. Has white and blue smoke From the exhaust. Has enough blow by to blow the oil cap off as your unscrewing it. My question is, I know engine restore is bad for these trucks but I can't afford to rebuild the engine. If I run the restore and then clean the IRP once the truck dies is this going to mess anything else up. Do you think it will by me a few months to save up for a rebuild
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This last April I was towing my trailer back from camping approx 125 miles when I detected a loss of power and a slight miss. I managed to make it home. It wasn't until I made it home that the engine finally started coding. Miss on start, a couple of cylinders missing and output shaft speed sensor circuit failure. So naturally, I decided to do what I felt needed done anyways, change all coils and plugs. Oddly the problem got worse to the point where I almost didn't make it home after test driving it, it kept stalling out and was difficult to keep running.
After some research and advice from others, I started replacing some components; MAF sensor,IAC valve, output shaft speed sensor. Nothing. In fact now the truck wont move, I start it up it idles a little rough, but then I put it into gear and with in seconds she shuts her self down. I've replaced the fuel filter, checked the fuel pressure and it is in specs. I've now had it towed to two mechanics neither of which have any solution. They've put expensive computers up to it and still nothing. I really do not know what to do at this point. Lastly the only code that continues to come up is P0720, output shaft speed sensor circuit failure, I really miss my truck!
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Apparently yesterday (no known reason) my sons truck started to develop a miss (so it feels like to me).
2005 f150 5.4 auto 215000km 4x4 stx. No specific cylinder codes. All general codes.
P1000
P1464
P1550
P1703
P1780
None of which I can see causing the miss. No check engine lite, no other codes. Not sure what to look at next. I am starting to disconnect the coil packs one at a time and see if I can pin down the cylinder.
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My second gen prius has slight miss/knock at startup. Done 35000 km. Doing around 19Km/Ltr. No other problem.
Any need for tuning, plug checking, needed at this stage?
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I got a 2001 Escape XLT (V6) a couple of months ago. Its in great condition, only 82k miles on it too. It had the notorious door handle issues which I have had fixed. It also had the wet weather stuttering problem, which I had fixed by having all 6 spark plugs replaced (Motorcraft OEM plugs), the back 3 coils replaced, upper intake gaskets replaced, Valve cover gasket replaced, PCV valve replaced (motorcraft).
It runs great when its warm, the problem I am having is when its cold outside and the engine is cold, it starts up fine but idles like crap and if its really cold outside, it starts and dies 3 or 4 times before it can even get to the crappy, stuttering idle. I have to intermittently feed it gas to keep the cold idle going long enough (3 or 4 minutes) before I can drive it. Once the engine is warm it drives like a champ. The only warm engine issue, is occasionally after driving it and putting it in park, the engine will rev up to 2000, 3000+ rpms, and just keep going up until I shut the engine off.
The codes read P0171 and P0174, which are lean on bank 1 and bank 2. It had also thrown a misfire on cyl 6 but once I cleared that it hasn't come back, just the lean codes are still present.
From what Ive been reading, this can be a number of issues, ranging from the IAC valve, EGR valve, MAF or the lower intake gaskets. I'm very much a rookie when it comes to car mechanics, but I think I can handle changing the IAC, EGR and MAF since they are all on top of the engine. However I don't know if I could handle the lower intake gaskets. Ironically, the gaskets are the cheapest part, but the most labor if I paid someone else to do it.
If I replace the EGR, do I also need to replace the EGR Modulator as well? Looking for brand names that are best bang for the buck when it comes to these other parts I have mentioned?
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