Ford Excursion :: 2001 V10 - Severe Misfire To Stalling
Jun 24, 2014
2001 V10 Excursion, just as the title implies, has severe hesitation issues and stalls out seemingly randomly, yet consistently. It started back 3ish months ago with a slight misfire(maybe?) at higher rpms (3.5k+) occasionally. Ive changed all 10 plugs, with no malfunctioning symptoms on them. I've cleaned and then replaced the MAF, and it seemed to fix it, but shortlived, and it was the exact same the day later. Air filter checked and cleaned, tb checked, tps visually checked. Codes were not thrown until it started to get quite bad, but only resulted in a lean condition both banks code. I seem to have fuel pressure, replaced the fuel pump and filter when the pump died about a year ago. As the problem worsened, I replaced the o2 sensors the other day, with still no change.
I plan on getting a fuel gauge to confirm for certain, as well as a vacuum gauge. I will check the fuel pump relay, and I am gonna beat on the CAT to see if its busted. Aside from replacing the COPs, it made me an hour late to work as I had to limp it along the highway, hazards blazing.
Before it starts acting up, I cant apply more than 5% pedal or it cuts out terribly, and a short while after that the motor starts surging terribly no matter the speed, and the pedal does absolutely nothing, like its not connected. I either stop and turn it off, or it dies, either way I stop. Restart the truck after a few seconds and it works fine for another....I dont know 100 yards maybe. Makes for one heck of a roadtrip.
Looking for any options that would kill a v10. Can a bad Cat kill a truck? I don't think all 10 cops would fail...or can they? Ignition module? Busted TPS? I'm lost.
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Today I took my AWD 2.7 Santa Fe out. All seemed fine until I made a turn... I noticed I was loosing power and came to a stop, despite pressing the gas pedal fully. The car then started to vibrate extremely hard and all of the dash lights came on. The car stalled completely. I tried to start the car again, but it took a few tries. The car shook severely in park, but when put in drive immediately became much worse and then completely stalled. I did this many times trying to get out of the street. I finally got it to work good enough to get off the road - I did however notice that it would not shift out of 1st gear. It had very high rpms, but refused to shift.
I am guessing this is the crankshaft position sensor? Could this be a MAF problem? I believe I read on this forum about high humidity making Santa Fes go crazy - it has been over 95% today, and raining. I managed to get the car down the road to a shop we trust. They are going to try and read codes later.
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I am perfectly capable of doing the repairs just short on time. the only shop in town is booked out 2 weeks, i need my truck sooner. 2006 f150 5.4v 3v 168k. I bought it with 150k and it was clean and ford maintained from the original owner. for a while it has been fluttering from time to time during acceleration. last week it started shuttering and missing around 45 trying to accel. no cel. I've read and actually fixed my freinds 08 but replacing cop and plugs. I bought motorcraft plugs and granatelli coils. friday morning it didn't want to start, cranked for a bit then locked up, as if hydrolocked.
I let it sit 5 minutes then cranked again and it fired but hesitating and missing like never before. anything passed 3k rpm it ran good no load. i had to drive it and it doesnt want to shift properly, revving way past normal shift points. smoking alot more than normal. hard to tell being 5 degrees out. finally got some codes. bank 2 sensor 1 stuck rich 4 times lean twice. Saturday i changed the oil plugs. and coils plugs were not original but were worn enough to visually see. all of the passenger plugs were a nice brown color. all of the driver side were jet black of carbon which follows the o2 cel. i reset it with my glorifed code buddy and it took a while if at all to come back. so im thinking not an o2 sensor????
It runs rough and will stall from time to time, I am to the point where i wont drive it. i will be replacing the camshaft sensors and vct solenoids tonight, and that one 2 if i have time. from what I've read phazers will cause a rough idle but once under load at least have some performance. when i accel it the rpms stall out before a shift i cant get anymore power, say wont got over 3200rpm. when chains and guides need to be replaced whats the symptoms??
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I have a 2005 hyandai elantra with 176k miles. ck eng light came on with P0340 cam shaft positioning sensor. I replaced it and cleared code and ck eng light came back with same code. So as last resort took it to dealership who replaced the wire from sensor to ecu and told me i had a bad ecu. I replaced it with a used one from a semi-reputable salvage yard (i mean i have used them several times with no issues). The code came back almost instantly. Symptoms of the car starts good cold within a few minutes it is very slow to accelerate and i have noticed a severe loss of MPG. I have also checked timing because i changed the belt in this process.
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This summer my power steering went out. I replaced the steering rack with a remanufactured rack, which failed. I got the replacement rack replaced by the remanufacturer and installed by a different shop. Same problem: SEVERE vibration when turning hard right followed by the PS error code, or just little twitchy motions when driving. I'm having the second shop take a look at it again this monday as I suspect that this is a data processing issue.
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My wife's 04 AWD 2.7 Santa Fe has developed a severe vibration. I have rotated tires, checked ball joints and tie rod ends, and had it aligned. The tires show very even wear and don't appear to have any bulges or broken belts. The vibration is so severe that the vents rattle louder than max radio volume, but it completely disappears in even the gentlest right turn.
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I am purchasing a 2003 Excursion with a V10 sight unseen this weekend. It has a stalling issue. Apparently it will run and then die. What are the things I should look at besides the fuel filter. The owner said the fuel pressure was ok.
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Santa Fe 56 2.2 Diesel ... I am suddenly experiencing the engine management light symbol being illuminated and have severe lack of power I am wondering whether it is Mass air sensor ? blocked fuel filter? or blocked exhaust?
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My EX died on me twice today when I put it in reverse. Once at the doctors office and once in my driveway when I got home. Is there any sort of interlock that would cause it to die when I put it in reverse. I replaced the idle control servo not long ago so I am hopeing it is not that although with the crap parts coming from China it is not impossible.
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I have a 2000 v10 excursion and once in a while when I shift from park to drive it will stall and lunge forward. It will stay running if I go to neutral but as soon as it goes into drive it will stall and also reverse seems to work sooner than drive will come back I have been stalled and had to put it in reverse and pull to the shoulder.
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I've been researching the issue here on FTE, and this past weekend replaced the IAC Valve. I also cleaned the MAF.
Symptoms are random stalling. Before today, it was only at idle. Today it did while under power. It stalled three times before I had it towed home.
It starts up fine, but after stalling it did seem like it wasn't getting fuel when I cranked it a few times. But, then it was good. It still starts fine, and idles fine.
When a pump goes on one of these, do they act up first, or they simply stop working?
This issue has taken place over the past several months, but seems to have come to a head today.
Last resort is changing out the filter before I take it in.?
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Well first the exact car I have. 99.5 Jetta 2.0 AEG. It all started with one loud backfire with a stall at a stop light while in neutral. After that it was random stalling and jerking while driving. So I checked my everything and all seemed well. I replaced spark plugs because they where fouled and nasty. Cables are good. They're near new and tested them with a multimeter. Next I checked my injectors and they are surprisingly very clean.
I had also ran seafoam prior to these problems a few weeks before it all started. Next step was new fuel filter. Old one was nasty and black stuff dripped out. That didn't work. So I checked for vacuum leaks with throttle body cleaner. Nothing. Visually threre is nothing wrong under the hood. So today I changed the fuel pump. Went for a test drive all seemed well. Can out of the bank. Then it won't start. So I wait like normally. And it normally gets me home. Nothing. Will sometimes start but if I'm not holding the gas it dies. I don't know what to do. My only other thing I can think of is the coil pack.
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I have a 2003 Excursion 4X4 V10 (6.8l) gas with 130K.
About six months ago, the truck started stalling at irregular intervals. The truck runs fine for weeks at a time, but will suddenly die. This happens at idle, and under power. After stalling, the truck usually starts back up, but there has been a few instances where I thought it sounded fuel starved. It has stalled as many as four times in a row (within 15 minutes), but shortly after it runs fine again.
I researched this board, and tried the following: cleaned the MAF, and replaced the IAC Valve.
But, it stalled again, so in late February I took it to the dealer; a AAA approved repair facility which means they guarantee the fix for two years.
The dealer claimed to have pulled a P0231 code. As a result, they replaced the fuel pump and assembly, along with the fuel filter.
The truck ran fine until two weeks ago, then it went thru a series of stalls again. In each instance, the truck started right up, and I drove it to the dealer.
The dealer took it in again and had it for six business days, but they could not replicate the issue. I suggested they test the PCM/fuel relay and the signal going to the fuel pump - they said everything checked out okay. No charge, the ticket remains open.
What could be causing this? I am not too good with electrical stuff; in fact, I know very little. Another member explained a way to test the signal at the time the truck stalls, but I am not sure if I could competently do it. I am thinking I need to start replacing part after part until it stops? I don't mind doing that, but would need to know which parts to focus on. Should I start with the MAF? I cleaned it, but do not know how to test it.
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I'm having continued issues with my mom's POS 2005 Hyundai Accent. It usually runs great cold, but once it's warmed up, it will stall out while driving. This almost always happens when accelerating from a stop. After it stalls, you have to let it set for 30 seconds to a minutes before it will start again. It will also sometimes idle roughly.
I've changed out the TPS and the MAP sensor, the battery, the CPS, the fuel pump, and the spark plugs. I did find that the radiator bypass hose was leaking on to the wiring for the O2 sensor. I fixed that, and the wires appear to be fine. I've sprayed throttle cleaner around the intake and can't find a leak. I scanned the ODB codes and I'm getting a Random misfire, misfire on cylinders 1, 2, 3, and 4, the Throttle Position Sensor and the MAP sensor, both of which have been replaced.
Tonight during my troubleshooting I was trying the wiggle test on the various connectors and got zapped when I was wiggling the coil pack connectors. Is that normal? I'm starting to suspect a wiring or electrical issue, but I'm not sure how to troubleshoot that.
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I recently purchased a 2005 Ex 6.8L V10 and I have been struggling to figure out the Cylinder 4 Misfire for close to 3 months. First thing I did was replace all 10 spark plugs with Motocraft plugs. Check engine stayed away for a few weeks... then came back. I next replaced just the #4 coli with a DG508 Motocraft coli I picked up at O'Reilly's. Again the check engine light stayed away for a few weeks.
Finally, I cleaned out #1-4 fuel injectors and swapped positions of #1 and #4. This time the check engine light stayed away for over a month. However, it just came back today, and again, it is #4. I am now at a loss for what to do. I assume it is not the fuel injector since I swapped the #1 and #4 injectors. If I have new plugs and a new coil pack, then what am i missing?
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I have a 2004 Excursion with a 6.0 Bought the truck already studded, EGR deleted, and a 54V FICM. When I bought the truck it had a hot stall, no restart problem. Found the high pressure oil leaks and resealed them by replacing the #3 injector and replacing the top injector seal in the #4 .Oil pressure reads very good now and I drove the truck for a couple weeks problem free.
Truck started smoking (white to gray) and felt like it had a miss. No misfire or contribution codes. Truck failed the bubble test and I narrowed the leak down to the passenger side by removing the banjo bolt
Banjo bolt at the front of the passenger head
Found the #3 injector loose...the copper washer
Copper washer had disintegrated/melted and appeared to be stuck to the side of the injector. Scraped off easily enough, cleaned up the injector and injector cup and reinstalled the injector with new O-rings and copper washer.
Put the truck back together and still smoked the same and still felt like it had a miss. Ran KOER test and found sometimes a contribution code for #2 and sometimes #6 .
Drove the truck to work and it didn't feel down on power...mostly just smoked and rough idle...but on the way home there was a lack of power and just as I pulled into my driveway the truck stalled...wouldn't restart. FICM voltage was good, high pressure oil read over 900, IPR was holding around 40%.
Pulled the secondary fuel cap
Secondary fuel cap to run another bubble test...there was no fuel in it...completely empty. Started to think that I had a fuel feed problem. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge
Fuel pressure gauge and drove the truck again...pressure wasn't great (45 lbs) but never dropped below 42...not even when it stalled. Pulled the cap again...dry again...yet the truck read fuel pressure.
Research showed that I was possibly pressurizing the fuel system with combustion pressure and that was possibly displacing the fuel from the fuel system. This would explain the run for a few minutes, then stall and no restart for a few minutes...I'm assuming that the pressure would bleed off and the fuel pump would start over.
Still failing the bubble test and still pointing to the passenger side. I pulled and recleaned the injector and cup...new orings
oRings and copper washer. Bubble test again...fail.
Pulled glow plug from #3 , failed bubble test still.
Pulled glow plug from #1 , failed.
Pulled #5 , failed...pulled #7 ...failed.
With no glow plugs in the passenger head I am still bubbling up to the fuel filter housing. Pulled the banjo bolt from the front of the drivers side head...no more bubbles.
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I have a 2000 excursion 4x4 v10 with 90k. The past few months I've noticed a tug or miss fire at low RPM (2000 AN UNDER) the past week its gotten worse, some occasional rough idol and the missing is getting worse. Whats wrong?? I don't want to take it to ford yet! No Check Engine Light yet...
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I recently bought a 2002 Excursion limited v10. It's got a couple of issue, mostly small stuff. The biggest is that it recently developed a pretty bad misfire. The code I'm getting is p0359 which is for the coil on cylinder 9. So I changed that and I'm still getting the same code. I took it to the shop and they're saying that they are not getting a signal on the wiring harness for cylinder 9 and they think that it needs a computer. They want to check all the wiring first to eliminate the possibility of a short or bad connection. My question is, if the coil somehow shorts out against the block, can that burn out the computer?
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Well It has been an expensive month for my Ex. New starter, Then a miss-fire. I ended up replacing all 10 plugs, and all 10 coils and I got ford coils.
Today I got in it, hit the ignition. It started for a split second and stalled. Went to go fire it up and well, its turning over faster then usual like its not getting any fuel or something. Now I am at the mercy of a local town shop, because the tow to the shop I run is about 450.00. I am thinking its the fuel pump... But we will know shortly.
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So when I bought the car, it had a check engine light. I had it checked it said cylinder 5 misfire. I assumed it was the glow plug so I bought it and replaced the glow plugs myself. Check engine light went away for about a day then came back on. Got it checked again and still said cylinder 5 misfire. This is my first diesel and I'm clueless as to what's wrong.
2001 7.3 Limited with 232k miles Bergen County NJ.
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2000 Ford Ex 5.4 V8 175K miles
Top of radiator (plastic part) had a small crack and started leaking on drivers side. Fixed with JB Weld. Ran fine for a day. Now I have a bad misfire and codes P0301 and P0302 (Cyl 1 and 2). Cleaned MAF and checked Air Filter. All good. Plugs replaced at dealer less than 20K miles ago.
So I took off Cyl 5 (easiest) and found that the boot is fine but the collar on the boot is done for. Can this cause the issue?
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