Occasionally when i start my Ex, there will be NO tach reading (0 RPM) and NO fuel gauge reading (E). The Temp and Oil gauges will work fine though.
After a min or so, they come to life and move normally. This happens intermittently.
2001 V10 4x4 Limited.
I have a 2001 Ranger 4.0L 4x4 with 101,000 miles on it. I went to go get in it the other day and the Air Bag Light came on out of the blue. I've drove it some since and it is still on. The light blinks for about 1 minute upon startup and then stays on solid for the remainder of the trip. What would make this come on so suddenly and is there anything I can do/check?
View 3 Replies2003 F150 5.4L Tow Package 140k miles... Had coils, all plugs/wires replaced two years ago due to vibe climbing hills. Now at startup in the morning for a minute or two during idle, the engine vibrates severely then subsides and runs fine rest of day. Doesn't do this every morning. Truck lives in FL. The issue is either temperature related or moisture related. Ford service has the truck presently and attempting to diagnose from an overnight stay. They already 'fixed' the problem last week by replacing #1 plug/wire and resetting the power control module (pcm) but two days later the problem came back. Tech said today that the plugs currently installed are Bosch (any issue with these plugs?)
2003 F150 5.4L 140k miles
2011 Expy 5.4L 44k miles
So at cold start, my my car squeals but once I drive for a mile, it goes away. I think it is the belt. How can I test it to see.
As well, seems like it runs a little rough right now when I am sitting idle at a stop light. Could the belt be causing this?
While driving down the road 60 mph, my X hesitated/bucked once then the motor quit... Luckily I was able to pull over to the side of the road. Tried to restart... The 6.8 turned over but didn't start. I turned it off, sat about a minute, it started no issues.
Same thing happened again except this time I smelled an electric component smell... Like after running a new computer... before the motor quit.
The check engine light is not lighting up when the issue happens. No codes. The issue has happened 3 more times. Twice, minutes between episodes... another time, 150 miles between episodes. All times I smelled "the smell" just before it quit.
Will the PCM (computer brains of the X) shut down if it overheats due to an issue... Thus the computer component smell.
I have been trying to do a search... What is the exact name of the computer brain in a 6.8?? What does it take to swap in a new one?? I have read that the PATS system is effected if changing out the brains (PCM).
Every time I turn the car on, the "from start" fuel economy reading resets to 15l/100k. After driving for a while it goes down to 4l/100k but then resets back to 15 once the car is turned off. Is there any way to get it to stay at what it finished at?
View 11 RepliesI have an 01 6.8L v10 Limited 2wd with 143K. I have had it for about 3 months and have noticed a raw gas smell sometimes at the back of the vehicle. I come home from work, get out walk to the back and can smell it. Noticed it once or twice while at a stop light with windows down.
I have looked at some of the other post about this and eliminated some of the options , I think. There are not any trouble or pending codes when scanned. The gas mileage around town is about 13.5 mpg. Pulled all the spark plugs and they look good. Performance seems good to me being that I have only had it for a few months. Idle is smooth.
Smell is definitely from the rear / gas tank area. I have test driven it down the street and then start checking immediately without finding anything obvious. I do not see or smell anything under the hood. I have looked at the fill tubes and they are not wet or rusted. I have not seen any drips or wet areas looking around it immediately after driving. Just the raw fuel smell at the rear.
So I think it is something in, on or with the tank...?? Also can the metal skid plate/box be removed from around the tank without the tank itself dropping or is it all one big unit that drops down?
I could smell fuel so I popped the hood to look for a leak. On top of the filter housing cover fuel was puddled in the little nooks and crannies of the black cover and some had leaked over the side into the valley between the heads. Is this a common leak? How in the world did fuel get on top of the cover but not on the hood insulator cover?
Also, just bought this not too long ago and the po said he had just done the fuel filter service on it. The gasket seemed pretty flimsy and weak and didn't really fit the gasket surface. Although I'm used to my cummins powered trucks and they use a o-ring to seal the housing cover. 2001 excursion 7.3
So I have a 1.8 5spd wagon which flooded out the comfort control module. I got another CCM but I still have a flashing oil pressure light. a flashing brake warning, a solid ABS light and an airbag light. The tach doesn't work and the MFD only occasionally works. Before I replace the ABS module I would like to eliminate anything else that might be in common with all these systems, is there a hidden fuse anywhere or a relay?
I tried unplugging the ABS module and it didn't change anything, do I need to code the CCM it has the same numbers on it but even after replacement the power windows still don't work even though the door locks, mirrors, and dome light on all but the drivers door ( I assume the micro switch is bad)work now, also the car starts.
How come I cannot read this thing worth a crap? I just had the oil changed and I can't see a definitive line on the dipstick. This thing burns oil when I am towing so I need to keep an eye on it.
View 5 RepliesMy outside temperature reading on my '05 (6.0 PSD EB) Ex has recently gone black..no reading. I haven't noticed any other issues, just no outside temp readings... Do these sensors go bad or ? Is it a big deal to change them out?
I was told it should be located just to the side of left hand (drivers side) headlight behind the grill, a small black cube (approx. 1 inch square) with three wires coming out of it. However, I'm not finding it there.
Where is the temp sensor located? Is there a fuse covering this sensor?
2001 Excursion 7.3 started missing the other night. Great loss of power, but made it home. Rough idle, "clacky". Next morning, did the following in order: 1) Pulled the fuel filter inspected, 2) removed all fuel from the bowl 3) replaced bowl fuel with Seafoam 4) installed new filter (my typical procedure). Without starting, I then 5) removed HPOP oil from reservoir and 6) filled with fresh oil using exact amount removed as a gauge for what to replace.
Started, idle smooth for a time. Increased rpm by depressing accelerator. Began running rougher and rougher accompanied by white smoke. Finally quit and would not restart. Cranking easily, tachometer showing RPM during crank. Suspected no fuel getting to fuel bowl. 7) Drained fuel bowl using valve on back of bowl. 8) Turned ignition to "on" to get fuel pump to run 9) removed new filter, no fuel in bowl 10) With fuel filter out of the bowl, removed fuel filter and quickly cycled the ignition to "on" and back off -- no fuel entered the bowl. 11) Removed leads from fuel pump. 12) Checked voltage across leads as ignition cycled to "on": 6.5 volts. 13) Checked fuel pump fuse (20A Maxi fuse in location 112 -- BLOWN!) 14) Replaced fuse, performed voltage test: 11.55 volts 15) Checked battery voltage: 12.44Volts.
So, with all that, how in the world does the fuel pump get 6.5 volts with the fuse blown? I looked closely at the fuse and there was no slag or connection in the element. Today I have pulled the 9-pin and 42-pin connections on the valve covers as well as the connectors to the glow plug relay module (used on Ex's) to inspect wires and connections. All looked fine. I plan to us some LP5 electro contact cleaner to clean all the connections and put some electrical grease on the connections, but the big question is where did that 6.5V come from with the fuse blown. I plan to pull the fuse and do the same test to see if the 6.5V is still there.
I have a 2001 Excursion Limited V10. 146000 miles 2 wheel drive. I have had it about a year and this is my first winter to really have experience with her.
When the outside temperature is very cold and the engine is cold from sitting all night, at start up, the oil pressure gauge reads nothing and the oil pressure/temp idiot light is on. Only does this during the first very cold start up or after sitting and engine getting very cold again.
I can drive just a short distance (2 blocks) and both gauge and light go to normal and stay there for the rest of my drive. I am using a quality 5/20 oil and filter and the level is good. Warmer days it has never happened. Truck runs fine, smooth idle, no "limp mode". She has not had any recent work done. All the other dash gauges read fine.
There is something about really cold temperatures that have to be causing the issue , I think. ??
I have been looking on the internet but can't really find anything on this, how do I replace the 2 bulbs that are in the back dome light? It seems like the plastic piece comes off but I don't know how and I don't want to break it
View 2 RepliesThese are my gauge readings at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to an AC conversion for gauges calibrated in Pascals, 35-40F converts to 241-276 KPa, 140-160F converts to 1000-1103Kpa. The gauges are in Mpa which by conversion is 3 decimal points to the left so .241-.276 and 1-1.103 Mpa. Here are my gauge readings at 68 degrees ambient temp. Rear air is same as an ambient temp on max ac and the front is pictured. There seem to be virtually no pressure differences which I would interpret as a novice that there is ) freon flow.
There is freon in the system with the high pressure being approx correct but the low side is too high if I understand correctly. Basically when at highway speeds at 75 degrees yesterday the front AC was cold and the rear was outside vent temp only. There are slight leaks in the low and high-pressure valves. I have a Mastercool replacement tool but they did not send a fitting for the high-pressure valve. What these readings mean as far as what may be wrong?
I have been having an intermittent (2 times in the past 2000 miles) oil pressure gauge not reading. As I own a 6.0L I understand that this is just a pressure switch in reality and if the engine was starved of oil the HPOP system would kill the engine. The first time the oil gauge went out it was raining out. The second time was after going through a carwash and getting the underbody wash. At this time my battery light also came on for a few seconds.
Both problems seemed to go away after an engine restart. Today it is snowing lightly and my battery light came on again. I happened to be monitoring the battery voltage and FICM voltage via OBD II using Torque app. At no time while the battery light was on today did the battery voltage drop below 13.5V. The FICM was also stable at 48.5+/-.5V.
As the battery voltage read by the PCM is not actually dropping and the previous oil pressure gauge and the fact that my left blinker indicator is out I am thinking I may have electrical issues with the gauge cluster. I have never had these issues while driving in dry weather. Where do I start troubleshooting this? Also I am going out of town for the next two weeks and my girlfriend was going to use the vehicle. Is it OK for her to drive?
I've had an ongoing issue with my fuel gauge reading incorrectly, and now I'm trying to fix it! Basically, it will change all over the place while I'm driving (not erratically, but definitely moves occasionally). I recently fixed my overhead display, but the "miles to empty" display doesn't seem to be very consistent. It will read 450 miles to empty, and then the next time I look at it, it will have dropped 100 miles or something (after minimal driving).
So I'm wondering where I need to begin looking to fix this problem. I've replaced the dash cluster using Circuit Board Medics, so I'm fairly confident that's not the issue. I've read that it can be the fuel pump or the fuel tank sender, but how to check if these are actually the problem or how much time it will take. Luckily, I've never run out of fuel and been stranded, but I need to fix this or it's only a matter of time!
Just changed the fuel filter in my '04 6.0, no issues worked just like normal, filter primed truck started, great. Well now my fuel pressure gauge is reading dead 0, I know that can't be right because the truck is running, but noticed my fuel mileage seems about 2 mpg lower all of a sudden. Had R&R Injectors installed about 40k ago, figure it's just a bad gauge but wanted to check and see before messing with the frickin wiring. Also, have had a lot of pressure buildup in the coolant tank, has had head gaskets and studs, anything else it could be besides head gaskets? Have had a lot of wiring issues with this truck from the previous owner....
View 14 Replies I bought a Prius C package 4 in Silver with Black interior with 16 inch allow wheels yesterday, I really like the cool technology and the look of the car. I bought it from a dealership roughly 160 miles from my home. Once I purchased it and was driving back on the Florida Turnpike, I first started of getting 43mpg, I was in the higher green area of the Eco meter, basically I was pushing the gas pedal and it was reading roughly 90 percent of the Eco meter is being used, I was driving at 78-83 mph. After an hour or so, I checked again and to my surprise it was reading 32.2mpg, I was really concerned, and slowed the speed, but it didn't change the mpg at all. After another 15 minutes, the mpg raised .1 every 2 minutes or so until I got home and parked my car I was getting 35.8.
This morning I woke up, got into my car and started driving for about 20 minutes, it is still reading the same 35.8. This is with me driving around 50 percent of the Eco meter
I'm concerned, is there something I'm doing wrong, do I need to reset this mpg, if I do, how do I do that.
Coilpacks get 12V during ACESS, 9V when cranking. Crank sensor gets 10V, and VAG reads RPMs on crank, but no spark, no fuel.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Ranger 4.0, 4x4 that just hit 100k and the oil pressure gauge doesn't show a reading for about 1 minute after startup. Also, the check gauge light comes on. What do I replace to fix this and is it something I can do myself? I am mildly handy. Would you worry about fixing it or just let it go because it's obviously getting oil pressure.
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