Ford Excursion :: 2001 V10 Less Responsive / Sluggish Performance
Dec 14, 2015
I purchased a 2001 Limited V10 about 18 months ago with 95k on it. We are now at 110k and have done quite a lot of work to it. Recently it has become noticeable less responsive (still driveable, just seems sluggish).
-Replaced all four brake calipers (originally thought a dragging rear caliper was causing sluggish feeling)
-Replaces exhaust at point after cat as it was rusted
-Replaced all spark plugs at 98k and also one COP at that point as it was misfiring.
-All fluids were changed right around 90k.
I'm at a loss as to what could be causing this as I really thought it was my bad brake calipers...
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So after a lot of work, I got the door actuator fixed. Instantly after, the window was sluggish to go down but it went all the way down, then it was sluggish to go up. Striked me as odd. Maybe I got a wire in the way? Happened twice more and then it wouldn't go down past an inch (from the top) and still will barely move. What could have happened or how I fix this? It is the driver's window and I live in a gated apartment complex
I should probably note that I had to unscrew that beam on the very left of the door (close to the actual door lock) and it wouldn't go back after 20 minutes of haggling with it so I took a small hammer and hit the bottom part of it so it would be aligned with the hole for the bolt. If this caused the problem, how much of a nightmare is it to fix it...?
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The lock in my right rear door has been temperamental for some time. I had always assumed I just needed a new solenoid, but I wonder if there's something else to this, like a broken clip or something that needs lubrication. All of the other locks work fine.
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I have a 2010 6.4L turbo diesel. Without a trailer on a mtn incline I have no issues. She will fly up the hill and she is quiet when I'm not pulling the 10,000 Lb trailer. When pulling the trailer, I have a loud howling noise and reduced performance. I had it at the Dealership and I had them check the engine/turbo and they found no problems? I asked if they tested under load and they said yes?? Someone suggested that the "Waste gate valve" was defective.
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just bought a 01 f350 v10, 40,000 miles, plowing beast, anyways when taking off truck seems sluggish, give it more gas as its fine. At idle there appears to be a skip. There are no check engine lights on, could it be the coil pack or even maybe fuel problem? Have done plenty to this beast to get it close to perfect and this motor issue is it.
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My '01 7.3 is having some transmission problems, My O/D light is flashing. Trying to go after stopping at a light is a difficult, it drives very sluggish, like its not in overdrive. Scanned it and got three codes P0732, P0720, P0503. I replaced the ABS/VSS on the differential and the problem still exist.
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The past couple weeks, my '03 Santa Fe 2.7 has begun to grind a while before starting -especially when weather is hot and has been sitting a while. Once it starts, all is normal. Most of the time it starts right up -no problem. This just happens once in a while. Slowly, it seems to be getting worse. I replaced battery -no change. ...................???
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I have a 2003 Elantra, which I've had for several years, and love greatly. Recently though, she's been giving me problems.
When it first started happening, about 6 months ago, it seemed that she was simply sluggish, and wouldn't accelerate as well as normal when I pushed the gas.
It has gotten worse from there, within the past 4 months, sometimes when I turn her on, she idles very rough, and the entire car shakes. Originally when this started happening, if I turned her off and back on, she would run smoothly again. Unfortunately that's no longer the case.
If I attempt to drive anywhere when she's acting up, pushing the gas makes the RPM drop down, and she doesn't move. This has caused a lot of problems at stop where I'm turning onto a busy road. Occasionally when I'm driving around, her RPM drops far below what it should. For example, she frequently drops down to 700 RPM when I'm driving 35 mph... normally when going that speed, the RPM is about 2000.
Most troubling to me is the fact that the engine turns off on me without warning sometimes. I've had her do it when I'm at a stop waiting to turn, at stop lights, and dangerously, even when I'm slowing down through traffic or getting ready to pull into a parking spot.
I've tried multiple things, fuel injector cleaners, replacing temperature sensors, and I've checked all the valves, wires, and hoses. I've had it attached to a code reader and of course she never acts up while it's attached.
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I just changed timing belt all accessory belts and water pump on my 2001 Hyundai Elantra. Now the check engine light is on and it is sluggish in throttle response. It sounds smooth. I was quite sure I had the cam and crank marks dead on. I turned it 2 revolutions by hand and they both looked dead on before I started it. If I were off 1 or 2 teeth would that be the cause? And if so how do I fix it? Also will it hurt it to drive it that way?
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I have a 2001 Elantra GLS 5spd with about 175k. Recently it started driving very sluggish. Under any more than minimal throttle during acceleration or load/resistance (i.e. climbing a hill), it bogs down and will decelerate. No check engine light, no codes, etc. I have replaced the TPS, catalytic converter, Spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, fuel pump, strainer, and fuel pressure regulator. Without any codes, I am at a dead end. I also unplugged the MAP and threw the code for it so I know it is functioning.
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2004 Santa Fe 2.7L V6 2WD ... Car was running fine, filled it with gas, and upon starting, heard a backfire into the intake manifold. It coded for a Cylinder 3 misfire so I had plugs and wires changed.
Now...The car starts, idles rough, accelerates sluggishly, and running rough any time it was around 2000 RPM. After I changed the plugs, it started bucking a little and stalls when I take off in the morning.
Coded and it's reading 7 codes, but some are duplicates:
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High
-P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input
-P0050 H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0030 HO2S Bank 1 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High (Shows Twice)
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input (Shows Twice)
After having a backfire and then cylinder misfire...replacing the plugs and wires.
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I recently replaced the 181K mile valve-burned engine in my 2001 Honda CR-V with a 40K mile engine from Japan. Since the swap idle is slightly erratic, acceleration from a stop is sluggish and check engine light indicates "P1508 error code" which is "Idle Air Control valve circuit failure." Also have an issue with the A/C cycling on and off rapidly when idling that goes away as soon as the engine rpm is slightly increased. New OEM IAC valve is costly so I hesitate to replace it. All parts other than the engine itself are from my original engine in my CR-V.
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My wife has a 2003 elantra. When it is started cold the gas pedal is REALLY sluggish for a couple of seconds but after that it works fine. I thinking it may need a transmission fluid flush but I'm not sure.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Camry with only 56,000 miles on it and I have noticed that the engine has been very sluggish on start-up first thing in the morning. This happens only when the weather gets cooler and is worst in winter. Warm weather, no problem. After I back out the driveway, I have to step on the accelerator 2-3 times before the car will go forward. The engine sounds like it's straining. After initial start-up, no problem. Now, lately I have begun seeing blue smoke coming from the exhaust . . . again only on initial start-up in the morning.
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I had to have 2 of my coils replaced a few weeks ago... since I got it back, the car is not as responsive as it used to be... I noticed it when i first got it back... it went away, and now it feels that way again. When I hit the gas (Floor it), its like it has to think about whether it wants to produce full power. Can even see the RPMs hesitate just a little.
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This evening I had an interesting hiccup happen. Out of the blue the car would not recognize any function of the key fobs (both) inside or out. Recently changed batteries in the fobs and the red LED was coming on with button presses so those weren't the issue. But as I mentioned, the car wouldn't recognize the fob for any button press or proximity for unlocking/ignition.
There have been a few times where the fob right next to my phone would throw the car off, along with a few random scenarios where I had to be right next to the car for remote lock/unlock to work. I figured this was some type of interference as all the occurrences seemed random.
Anyway, after nothing working I tried the fobs again and they worked as if nothing happened before. So, where the car possibly resets or in some way refuses to acknowledge the key fobs for a short time.
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I just had a rental for the new corolla, and noticed that the moonroof rolls out immediately after you press the button.
On my 2012 camry, i would have to hold the button for it to roll out, otherwise more often than so, i hold the button and it takes a while to act on that i press the button. (or doesn't even roll)
This would be covered under warranty right?
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I have a 2011 Hybrid Touareg. I'm just curious if other's are having a similar issue as mine with the V6 or TDI version.
When in drive mode and I shift the shifter to the right for manual down and up shifts, at times, I notice it's not as responsive. I try downshifting, and it won't downshift, it takes maybe 3-4 tries at times. Sometimes it works fine, other times it doesn't respond which can be frustrating. This goes the same with up shifting.
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My 2007 Lexus ls460L is completely nonresponsive to anything. The key won't work and it won't lock on unlock from inside the car either. How would I go about resetting the engine immobilizer?
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I just got my bc extreme drop kit installed, after taking out struts i imagined my corolla would be lighter and faster cuz the struts weigh way more than the coilovers, but when i drove it for first time after install, i noticed the acceleration is weaker and not as responsive, why this is? is it supposed to be like that, whats happening?
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Battery has died..... tried charging it and my amperage is spiking like crazy and wont stop. Prior to all of this my dash lights and gauges were fluctuating at best non responsive at worst. I believed that i had a short in my light switch but with it removed my problems are still consistent my battery terminals are fine, and my battery cables are in good condition. I do not know where the short could be ( i know there are thousands of locations).
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