Ford Excursion :: 2001 V10 - Cracked Heater Line - Passenger Side Header Melted
Dec 17, 2016
It seems that the install of my Doug Thorley headers didn't go as well as I thought. Turns out the passenger side header melted the bracket holding the heater lines and then punctured one of the lines when it rubbed against the header. Right now I'm not sure what to do. I noticed the melted bracket and pulled the fender well, but that's when I noticed the leak. I guess some of the melted plastic was keeping it from leaking everywhere until I removed it. I live in AZ so the rear heater isn't really necessary so if a stop gap measure is to bypass it then I'm game but I can't find any info on how to do it. If the only real solution is to get the entire line replaced then I'm a bit hosed I guess. 2001 V-10 4x4 BTW.
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So I had a stuck caliper on the driver rear side. I pushed the piston back and checked everything to make sure all was in working order. After some though and reading about the calipers getting stuck which old brake lines, I decided to upgrade the line with the Russell stainless steal lines.
I got all the lines put in but I seem to have fluid leaking on the passenger side fitting which I can't seem to get to stop. I put the old line back in but it is still leaking. I am not sure what I need to do or check to get it to stop. It seems to be leaking from the thread area. I checked the fittings and they don't look cross threaded so I don't understand why it may be happening.
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On my 2003 Excursion 7.3L, I notticed I'm leaking what I think is coolant from the passenger side rear hard line by the front spring hanger. I haven't pealed the plastic loom away yet, but I did see the loom is chaffed near the spring hanger. What lines are the ones that carry coolant, and can I just cut the hard lines and replace with a section of rubber hose?
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1999 f250 with some mild upgrades. Trucks got 189,000 miles. Stole it from an older guy for 4k. In fantastic shape. As the weather got colder I noticed an exhaust leak. Took it to a muffler shop only to find that it's got an aftermarket header on the passenger side only. Is that common to replace only one side?. the gasket has gone bad and needs replacement. I wanna replace both headers?
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I had a brake line crack on my way home yesterday(that was interesting..) It was the drivers side rear metal line from the splitter to the rubber hose. I went to autozone and was like ok easy enough this line is the same length and appeared to be the same diameter. bend to fit and all was well or not.. the fitting on the end was a different thread pitch and size. 1999 f250 4wd if it matters....
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I have an 01 Ford ranger with a 3.0 six cylinder. The passenger side exhaust manifold got so hot it melted the housing around the a/c evaporator. The local dealer said both converters need changing for a mere $2400. Took it to a local muffler shop where did a test and said they were ok. But it still doesn't want to run and the muffler guy unhooked the exhaust from the manifold and it still wouldn't run so he said. And to me out looks like 5 converters not just two.
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I have a 2003 Ex with the 7.3. There is a leak in the rear coolant line just in front of the rear right tire. Is there any way to bypass the rear heater under the hood?
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Question, I have a 2003 VW Golf GLS 2.0L AHV (5 speed). The brake vacuum line is cracked after the check valve on the intake side. I looked up the part number on the hose (at work and don't have it on me at the moment), did some research and noticed some revisions to that part number. Eventually settled on [URL] ..... (I ordered a new one since I needed to order a few things). Needless to say, I am beginning to think I ordered wrong.
I noticed that the check valve on the new hose has a 3rd piece that a smaller hose looks to clamp on? The check valve that is in my car doesn't have that. Did I order the wrong part? or did I need to be a cap?
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What are signs the intake manifold may be cracked? 2001 V10 Excursion....
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2003 F150 5.4 4x4 supercrew ,76k miles
Recently the passenger side exhaust manifold cracked on my truck. I bought this truck about two years ago with 58k on it and currently have 76k miles. I remember getting the carfax report and being relieved to see that it had exhaust manifold replaced in July of 2014 at 49K miles along with a new EGR tube. I called the shop that worked on the truck to see if he could confirm that both manifolds were replaced since carfax only said manifold & egr tube. The shop manager confirmed that both manifolds were replaced and he told me that they were most likely manifolds from napa according to the part number.
Now, my question is, what's the best brand to replace the manifolds with? Should I just go with OEM and spend the extra $130 per side? I know the manifolds are a common problem with these trucks but only lasting three years and 27K miles just seems ridiculous to me.
I'm hoping that when I get around to actually doing this that they wont be to bad because of how recently they were replaced. For now I just cleaned the area with a wire wheel and used the inferno metal repair. Seems to have done the job but I don't expect it to last long, just another month or two until I move to a place where I can actually work on my vehicles.
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What caused this. The attached pictures show what looks like melted plastic on the window frame to the right side rear passenger door. I noticed the damage after running errands one morning. What might have caused this? Any thing electrical inside the car or external?
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My passenger-side motor mount is cracked out. Is this a common failure? The aluminum part that connects the "frame" to the engine mount is cracked, the hydraulic rubber mount looks almost new, not sure how the previous owner missed the crack in the aluminum. Car has 140K miles on it. I'm thinking about just having it welded up.
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While swapping on my winter tires yesterday, I noticed the strut boot (I believe it's called) on the passenger side has a large crack, almost split in two. See picture attached.
The Prius is a 2006 with almost 370K KM (~231K miles), and I am hoping to keep the car for another 1-2 years, until the PIP2 is out.
Is this something to be concerned about? The strut is not leaking, and the suspension seems otherwise fine.
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The brake line on the passengers side went bad. Called ford for replacement and they said ford is not supplying that line any more. Where I can get a replacement? Its hard line and connects to the rubber line.
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My passenger side braided line from the HPOP to the passenger head decided to rupture. Got 300k on the clock so that recommended 100k change interval is on the low side. Do I need the 'special tool' to remove the line from the HPOP and what is the current recommendation on a replacement line?
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So I have a 97 f150 with a 4.2. the driver side header has a hole in it. Any tip or trick on pulling that bad boy off without busting the studs? ow ya she has 352k on her, I am guessing those nuts wont want to move...
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My wife drives a 2010 Hyundai Elantra with a 5 speed manual trans with about 40K mi on it . We purchased the service maintenance package that covers all scheduled major and regular maintenance. A year ago they replaced the head gasket because they discovered a small oil seep. This was covered by the warranty.
Well a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the heat is fine on the drivers side and blows cool on the passenger side. This is a problem particularly when defrosting the windshield. When she brought it in for the next scheduled service a couple of days ago I asked that she mention this problem to the service people.
Their response was "we need to do a cooling system flush which would not be covered by the service contract" to the tune of a couple a hundred bucks. The coolant is the transparent green it should be due to it being changed one year ago so I have my doubts about it being the heater core.
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I've got a pretty substantial drip someplace at the vacuum heater valve and I am trying to figure out what I am dealing with. I replaced the valve and clamps but the leak persists. The three hoses are so close together I cannot tell which one is leaking.
What are the part numbers for the three hoses? There is one that runs from the intake/front passenger head to the valve that is just held on with clamps. One runs straight down to some sort of fitting and connects to a metal line. I think it may be a quick connect fitting. It is very short.
The third runs from the back of the valve to the firewall.
There is a fourth hose that comes back up from the "somewhere" below and also is a metal hard line with a fitting and rubber hose that goes "someplace" else back towards the firewall. Not connected to vacuum valve...
In any event, if I am going to rip into this, I'd like to just replace the hoses in one shot and done with it. No luck finding much on Google.
The 2 pics included show the valve and the front heater hose. ( I saved the OEM clamps by just sliding them back on the hoses as pictured. I figured if the valve and worm drive clamps didn't fix this I'd put them back on.)
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The driver side seat heater on my '05 X is not working. The orange light comes on but no heat. The passenger side works fine. Where I should start my troubleshoot? Any common/known problem areas?
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My girlfriend has a '98 Passat with a 1.8t and she ran over something that cut the aluminum hard line that runs under the passenger side the length of the car. There are three there bundled together. The one that got cut is the outboard line. I couldn't see any fluid and when the car is running it cycles on and off with a valve or exhaust sound. Exhaust sensor of some kind.
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Is the wiper on the passenger side supposed to be visible above the hood line when in a resting position? It looks as though there is room for it to retract under the hood line, but mine doesn't seem to. Not the end of the world, but I would prefer not to see anything creeping up in the passenger corner when I am looking out. Maybe the wrong blades installed keeping it from retracting?
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