I've noticed the brakes don't build pressure when pumped with the truck in park. I can push on the pedal and it has pressure, but it seems lower than normal. I can also push the pedal to the floor slowly, even if I pump the pedal multiple times. I don't see any obvious signs of a leak and the fluid is full. This is a 2001 v10.
View 1 Replies2002 VW Eurovan. It will (after some braking) not release the brake pressure and actually lead to undriveability. In other words: I can go for a drive, apply the brakes at the stop signs and then I can feel how the van gets slower and slower even though I am on the gas. All 4 wheels keep getting brake pressure, the pedal gets harder and I have to stop. Then I have to turn the engine off, after 20 secs I can hear a loud groan that goes through the vehicle and the brakes are released. If I restart the engine too soon, the same thing happens again right away. If I wait at least a minute before restarting, then I can drive away until it happens again (and it does not always do it). The van got a new brake booster 15kmiles ago. I am at a loss. Brake fluid flushed regularly, newer pads and rotors, 195kmiles on the van.
View 19 RepliesWe had the Excursion parked untill we can get the thing up to have the radiator flushed and new thermostat put in. But we had to drive it today. Had no choice. Well, To our surprise the truck wont go into park. You can shift it untill the needle goes into the "P" like always but the truck will roll and go "click, click, click" as it rolls. It wont start either (guessing due to neutral safety switch). I got under the truck, everything seems tight, I tried to put it in park from the lever on the side of the transmission but it will not move any further. Could the whole neutral safety switch be bad and not fully putting the transmission in park? I can pull it down to neutral to start it and it goes into all gears and moves just fine.
View 14 RepliesIm lost here, my 6.0 is building coolant pressure on start up, and the temperature is not overheating. I cant tell if the pressure is staying high while driving, but its blowing coolant passed the cap. Thermostat? The truck was on a coolant pressure tester for 24 hours and never lost a pound of pressure.
View 14 RepliesToday while parking my van infront of a building, with my foot lightly on the brake- my van accelerated uncontrollably and smashed into the building. Luckily I was only 2-3' away from the building- and no one was infront of me. The reving noise and speed at which I hit the building was shocking. I was afraid to drive it, suffered some whip lash and had it towed to a dealer. They have said they can't find anything wrong thru the diagnostic testing. I'm afraid to drive it again-
View 30 RepliesI've seen a lot of off road racks mounted into rain gutters or the side of jeeps and whatnot, but can I just use the factory rails? Which way is better? The idea would be to remove the factory cross bars, and saddle up the custom rack in the rails that came with the vehicle.
Also, as far as weight is concerned the rack is going to be about 112" x 52" with a custom light bar in the front. The rack itself is going to weigh about 120-160 lbs. 1" square aluminum tubing., with 1 and 1/4 inch base, about 16-18" tall in the back, 10" in the front
I would like to be able to use a ladder and get up on it myself (200lbs), but I have a feeling this might be too much weight. me+sparetire+rack = fail?????
I know the rack itself can handle it I can jump up and down on it on the floor, but x roof is going to hold up or buckle?
Searched and can't find anything like what I hear out of my V10. After I start the truck, say 10 seconds later, I get an inconsistent clunk type noise that I can't nail down. It like a clunk that flutters if that makes any sense. Truck has 125k on it. I've had it since 113k and noise has always been there. Im concerned as I'm soon going to be towing a travel trailer.
Also this passed week I started the truck and got a ticking noise almost like a lifter noise that would come and go. I tried changing the oil and substituting one quart of MMO. Ticking started after that. So I drained that out and put in 6.5 quarts of valvoline 10w30. Truck still runs fine down the road and I just completed a 300 mile round trip with no issues. But as soon as truck goes into park that clunky flutter noise is there.
My degas bottle is building pressure and coolants puking out. This happens after a light drive started months ago it sat at mechanic for 3 months he never touched it just wanted to replace motor so i brought it home. The truck starts and idles and runs fine temp gauge sits at normal. There was white smoke a few times several months back when it started up but went away after warm up but none now. I don't drive it i have a spare vehicle i tried doing exhaust gas test on degas bottle to check head gaskets today with no luck. They gave me the gasser only fluid with tester. No coolant on the ground and I've added the dye to see it with ultraviolet light no leaks around radiator.
View 14 RepliesSo I just bought a 2001 F-150. It has the 4.6 v8 it's a 4x4 automatic. Sometimes i'll go to start it in park but nothing will happen. But if I put it in neutral. It'll start right up.
View 7 RepliesI have a 01 F150. I just turned it on and everything was fine it turns on lights turn on but when I tried to get out of the garage I would not shift. Windows won't go down . I am guessing it's something electrical .
View 1 RepliesMy 2001 f250 on occasion will roll a very uncomfortable distance when I put it in park. Not all the time, but enough to concern me. It will roll a good 12-18" before the park rod or what have you engages. Doesn't seem to be affected by grade. Matter if fact it has always done it on just slight grades. Nothing like a boat ramp. It rolls enough that if someone had been front or back it would have bumped them.
View 1 RepliesI HAVE A 2001 10 CYL EXCURSION with Pirelli Scorpion 265/75R 16 AT tires Istill can't get a good answer on correct tire Pressures-door plate says 38/45 tire wall says 80psi max. I've seen guys post 55/65 for non towing then maybe 60/70 for towing. Currently my steering kinda sloppy-inflations were messed up 55-52 front and 50-47 rear- also manual hubs somehow were in lock pos.Just had ball joints done but mechanic said didn't need alignment.
View 14 RepliesI have an 01 2wd 6.8L with 143K. I was wanting to check out the AC before summer gets too hot. I was wondering if low and hi side pressures should be taken at idle with front and rear on max or with the idle around say 1500rpm? I have a 134a pressure chart and it says that at outside of 85 degrees it should read 45 and 255 approx.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 F-250 XLT 4x4 with V10. Truck will not start. No fuel pressure. My Haynes manual does not show ignition or fuel delivery wiring. I have found the relay box behind the radio/dash. I need a wiring diagram and info on which relay is the fuel pump relay. Want to know so I can jump relay to see if fuel pump is okay.
Truck had sat for a few weeks being ran very little, so had to jump start yesterday. Ran for about 15 min, the shut off, re-started and ran for 30 min. Truck sat for about 1.5 hours then would not start. Charged battery overnight and it is 100%.
2001 F350 with 5.4 ... No leaking brake lines. The bad calipers have been replaced. Brake system doesnt seem to build pressure when the truck is running. The pedal gets stiff when the truck is shut off but when its started the pedal goes to the floor. Just put in a new booster and master cylinder. Flushed and blead all the lines several times now and got all the air out and am now getting a nice solid stream of fluid.
View 3 Replies2001 F-350 / 7.3L / 147K ... What are some symptoms of the master cylinder going out? And is there a such thing as a rebuild kit anymore? The pedal has been getting spongier & spongier over the past months. Truck still stops O.K. but you have to brake earlier than I used to. Pedal can go almost to the floor. Pedal continues to go to floor as pressure is applied. Does not go to floor though.
View 4 RepliesAfter a hard rain overnight, my truck would not stay on. I had to give it gas while still in park or it would cut off. Also I noticed white smoke from the exhaust while doing that. Eventually car stayed on. But now at when I come to a stop, the car will cut off when I put my foot on the gas to take off. I also.noticed the overdrive button will start to blink. Once the car gets going a few miles, then it's fine. Then this process starts all over again once the car is parked. Also the service engine soon light came on.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2001 Excursion with the 7.3 and while out driving around on Friday I noticed that my brakes were gone and when I pushed the pedal it went straight to the floor. I pulled over and put in brake fluid (it was empty) and managed to get home. I have discovered that the brake line (it is metal) that runs from the front to the back is rusted out and the brake fluid is just pouring out of it. What is the part called? I spent about a half hour looking for that particular schematic on the ford parts web site but couldn't find any mention of that brake line. Here is a picture. There are 3 metal lines and one is leaking the brake fluid? Can I fix it in my driveway or should I have it towed somewhere?
View 4 RepliesWhen i press the brake pedal the brakes seem to start working ,but they dont apply enough pressure to actually stop the car from speed , it's just happened car was fine yesterday , also i've noticed when i start the car , and press pedal with my hand there is a air leak noise behind the pedal , and a faint low pitched tone noise as well , its as if the servo isnt working fully.
View 2 RepliesRecently my brakes were feeling a little spongy so I took my X to a local shop who installed new front and rear brake pads and flushed the brake fluid. The brakes seemed to operate properly.
But, then while driving on the interstate in Tampa, I had to SLAM on the brakes but it seemed like it took forever to slow down. It's hard to describe, but it's like when you are moving at interstate speeds and then you have to SLAM on the brakes, the X just slows down and comes to an eventual stop. It does not stop quickly.
I do not feel any pulsing from the antilock braking system so I don't think it is being activated for some reason. This seems to only happen at faster speeds. I have no problem when driving around town and slowing down for stop signs or red lights. It slows and stops just fine.
So I took the X back to the shop and they replaced the Booster w Ford booster. I thought I checked it out as soon as I picked it up around town AND on the interstate.
But, today I had to SLAM on the brakes while on the interstate again and it is acting just like before - just slowing down, but not fast and without the antilock brakes activating (apparently).
Initially when I start driving, the brakes work just find. But it seems as I use the brakes, the front brakes build up pressure and slowly start to lock up. They don't lock up completely, but they do cause a significant amount of drag. The rotor, calipers, rubber hoses and master cylinder are all very new. I'm thinking maybe the issue is with the master cylinder and am considering going to get one along with a brake booster(since it doesn't have one currently).
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