The right rear wheel is getting hot on my 2001 ltd 4x4 7.3. It also has some smell of brakes. That wheel had a new caliper, and pads as well as a new line about 2 years or 15K ago. What should I look at first? Could the emergency brake be sticking?
View 2 RepliesGot home from work last night, passengers side rear wheel was smoking, and damn hot to the touch. Drivers side rear was hot, but not as bad as passenger's side.
My first thought was worst case sceneries - wheel bearings. After getting it in the air, in neutral, I can turn the wheels, but, it takes a lot of effort. There's no grinding noises, but, it sounds like a brake is in constant contact.
I'm in the process of taking both wheels off, but, I'm leaning towards either the brakes/calipers or the ebrake dragging. It definitely smells like hot brakes, and not diff fluid.
After smelling burning for a few days randomly, I've narrowed it down to the rear driver side wheel. After about on the highway, I stopped, and it is HOT! I pulled the wheel but the hub spins easily 1/16th of a turn or so, as it's in park, so the brakes are not dragging. What else this could be? Or are they dragging at random? The rotor is perfect, no rust and no groves, so hte pads are doing their job. 1/16th of a turn is way exaderation, but it can move. Also there's no sounds at all.
View 13 Replies2002 Excursion Limited V10, 96k miles...
History - 3 of 4 calipers have been replaced, to include the caliper on the suspect wheel, along with new brake lines. On occasion, while driving, i can smell the brakes. It emanates from the right rear wheel. I'm reluctant to think it's the caliper. At this point I'm thinking the him needs replaced. Any reason for this too is, on occasion the ABS light will flicker on.
I'm uncertain as to the cause of this because of it's intermittent nature - both the brake smell and the ABS light. When the ABS light comes on, it only flickers on, but when it goes out, the speedometer will drop to zero and come right back up. The truck has an electrical ghost, I know. For that matter, the door ajar light is always on, and the codes say it's all four door sensors - it's not the sensors, and it's not the GEM.
More importantly, though, I need to figure out the issue in the right rear wheel.
2001 7.3 l 4X4. I have done a ton of work to get the suspension and steering right. Changed all the shocks, added hellwig sways to front and rear, replaced steering gear with redhead, ball joints and added warns hubs. My question is today was the first time engaging the four wheel drive. I locked the hubs and turned the switch to 4X4 low, it starting squeaking and squalling and felt like my wheels were coming off. I put everything back to 2WD. I switched it to four wheel with out locking the hubs. no problem. When I locked the hubs in it started again. Been doing some research and looking at needle bearings, wheel bearings and axle joints.
View 10 RepliesI have an 01 Ex, 6"lift, 35" tires, 185,000 miles. I have gradually gotten to this point where the steering is very loose. I can roll the steering wheel back and forth with out "catching" the wheels & with the bigger tires, they catch grooves in the road & pull the vehicle side to side. I took in to a reputable 4x4 shop & he suggested the steering gear box was going bad. So I had them replace that. That did solve about 50% of the problem. So what is the next thing to look at??? Ball joints?
View 12 Repliesgot an issue with my 01 excursion. When driving the steering wheel with vibrate or shimmy. As in if the rotor maybe warped or tire has a small bubble in it. Here is the kicker. It does not do it all the time. Some times I can drive it and it drives just as smooth as can be and I can go all the way to town and back. Then sometimes I can drive it to town and either turn a curve or hit a bump and then it will start doing it. Then I will come back home. Then the next time i jump in it and start driving down the road and it is just fine. I just had the brakes and rotors were just changed.
View 6 RepliesI recently purchased a 2001 XLT, 5.4L RWD. It has the rear windows with actuators installed. The upper console has the vent switches to open and close them. They don't work. I removed the upper console and the vent switches have no wires running to them and no visible wire harnesses that have been cut or removed.
With the headliner removed, I chased the wires from the actuators (white with brown/yellow with brown on the right and white with blue/yellow with blue on the left). These four wires meet up over the right rear door and run in a bundle to the upper console where they seem to end in the plug for the Rear A/C controller. There is no indication that these harnesses have been altered. They appear to be taped like they came from the factory.
My questions are, were the opening rear window vents standard on the XLT or only on the Limited? If only on the limited, would they have installed actuators regardless of what model and just dead-end the wires into open plugs? There may be the chance that the upper console was aftermarket because there is a price tag sticker on it...
Proud new owner of a 2001 Excursion with 7.3. The gentleman I bought the X from had four Michelin LTX M/S2's. 285/75/R16. Looks like they had plenty of tread left so I was happy, until I got home and noticed a large slice in the side wall of the right rear.( approx 2" long and 1/4"deep.). I will be towing a 8000 lb trailer with three kids. Went to big tire store and they replaced one tire. They said it would be fine with different depth. (Exact same tire). When I got home I looked at tread, has noticeable difference in depth. Looks like 3.5MM diff from what I measured. My question is this, will this be ok or will this possible damage the rear end having slightly diff overall size?
View 5 RepliesI have 2001 EX with the 7.3 and my rear vent windows stuck open and I am stumped as to what might be the culprit. There isn't any power getting to the switches in the overhead console.
I replaced the relay 204 in the engine compartment, I believe that is the correct one.
Where the actual fuse is located for this and its number? Because both of them are stuck open not just one side.
I have Elantra GT 2006 with traction control and ABS, disk brakes. The rear right wheel is overheating. Checked if sliding pins are moving. They were fine. With working engine if brake pedal is pressed wheel does not move, pedal is released and wheel can rotate. Three days ago I replaced rear right caliper together with the caliper hose. It did not work. After driving in city for 15-20 minutes right rear wheel will be hot to the point that you cannot hold your hand (left rear and front ones are barely worm). I tried to remove the fuses for ABS and it did not work.
View 6 RepliesI'm buying a 2003 Ford Explorer, XLS Sport Utility 4D. She's got 150k miles on an automatic transmission (pretty sure this model only came in auto anyhow).I'm mostly concerned about the rear axle, as the title prompted. The rear wheel seems awfully close to the front of the wheel well. Is this normal? I google searched some images of this model and seems to be the norm in some cases, and in other cases not.
Attached is a photo of the concerning placement. Is the rear axle bent? Is this suggesting that the rear end is on it's way to crapping itself?
99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
Four wheel drive will not come on, no light on dash or engaging.Some times light on dash will flash.
View 12 RepliesFour wheel drive will not come on, no light on dash or engaging.Some times light on dash will flash. Why?
View 7 RepliesI am looking to swap the worn steering wheel in my Excursion. I would like a wood and leather like the Navigators have. Any tips on doing the swap?
View 14 RepliesI have 265/75 R16 tires and 11 inches between the rear tires and the top of the inner wheel well and 9 inches between the front tires and top of the inner wheel well. I can't tell if the springs are stock or not. Does this distance seem like the stock distance?
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I have a drag/click coming from my front wheel. I had thecaliper off so it was definitely in the hub assembly. I went ahead and greasedthe hub through the ABS sensor but the drag/click was still there. I amthinking it is either the wheel bearing or the axle bearing. My question is ifI lock the hub and the drag/click goes away does that mean it is the axlebearing? Also, is it possible the auto locking hub could be part of the problem?
By the way, my Ex has 130K on it and the 4x4 auto selectworks fine. There is no play in the hub and no noise that I can hear. The onlyreason I am digging into this is a drop in gas mileage that led me to find outthat both front wheels are very tough to rotate (with the front drive disengaged).
is it just a 337 thing? but, the rear wheel on the left is poked out farther than the wheel on the right. I didn't measure it just yet but it looks as it's almost a 5mm difference. I didn't realize it until today when an old friend was inspecting my car.
View 11 RepliesI'm stuck failing a vehicle inspection for the steering wheel not returning to center after a turn. It turns most of the way back but you definitely have to finish the job yourself. I've jacked it up and turn the wheel lock to lock with no bind at all, one finger, nice and smooth. I've replaced almost everything up front (ball joints, u-joints, bearings, drag link both ends, etc.).
Mechanic that did the inspection seems to think the steering gearbox and/or the power steering pump could be the source. I have only seen threads for loose/wandering steering (which is why I replaced everything up front already) pointing to the gearbox. I brought the state trooper in to verify it and he said while he wouldn't necessarily fail it, he can't override the mech's call because it does require assistance to straighten out.
We have the 6.8 4x4 2001. Mostly use it for towing 6K #. Bought 2 years ago. Front and rear brakes were new and all 4 rotors were machined at Ford dealership prior to purchase. Have put on 13,000 miles since then, majority towing.
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