I have an 01 Excursion. I tried to start it this morning and the radio and lights came on, but all it would do is make a really loud clicking noise. If the battery was dead would the lights come on? My friend who picked me up to take me to work also told me my battery connections needed cleaned...
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 Excursion v10. Every time I turn my AC on, as soon as it engages, there is a very loud clicking/ticking noise coming from the engine. What this is? Is it the compressor going out?
View 14 Replies2001 6.8 Ex wouldn't start again today Get a loud click but starter doesn't turn over. Yesterday jumped it, took it to Advance where they checked battery and alternator; both checked out great. To start it this morning I ran my negative jumper from battery to engine block and it fired up It's about 12 degrees out and was same yesterday. Thinking dirty/bad ground somewhere ? Do I just start following the negative cable everywhere it goes or am I missing something here No garage and it is chilly.
View 3 RepliesMy 2013 Prius v made a really loud clicking noise this morning when starting the car from a cold start. It was less than 30 degrees Fahrenheit. The car has about 14K miles in it. Is this normal?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2014 Elantra, today it would not start, only loud clicking noise and lights flash. I moved gear shift to neutral same results, moved back into park same results. Do not think its a battery issue.
View 11 RepliesSo this is a two-part question because that's the type of day that I'm having. 1st, I went out to start my car to find that it won't. The radio and lights come on, but it won't actually start, and makes a rapid, loud, clicking noise. I have a video of this however...
My boyfriend thought perhaps I need a jump start, so we were going to try that first but when we went to pull the latch inside the car to open the hood, we found that it doesn't work. So now we can't get the hood open.
So, I'd like to first know how I can get my hood open easily, and what may be going on with it not starting.
I own a 2006 GS300 for 4 years and I have about 90k miles on it. Just suddenly today when I went to go turn the car on, I hear a rapid loud clicking noise and the engine will not start. I've done some googling and one possible solution is to disconnect the battery to let the car reset and then connect it back. What the cause is? I've replaced the spark plugs a few months ago, but I didn't replace the battery.
View 13 RepliesI am having trouble with my 2001 F-150. Starting yesterday it would not start. At 1st i thought it wa the battery, so i took it off, charged it, put it back in the truck and still no start. There is a clicking noise coming from a relay in the cabin fuse box, disconnected the battery, removed relay to inspect and everything looks good. After plugging it back in, and connecting the battery, the truck still wont start and there is a clicking sound coming from the dash near the radio. Rhis is my work vehicle!!!
View 3 Replies2001 Passat Wagon GLS v6 - 83k
Just replaced the drivers-side taillight and hood strut. Been a week or so since the vehicle has last been started as it is sitting in the garage. When I start the vehicle, it will turn over a bit, cranking away, then start clicking (pretty quickly).
If I pay careful attention while it is turning over, I can hear the door locks making some noise, kinda like they are trying to decide whether to lock or not. I will also get dash light flickering on/off. turn-turn-turn / click-click-click
I know it is not the battery. All power works fine when the key is just in the on position, no dimming, etc. Though it seems to be something electrical with the weird noises I get while trying to start.
2001 sierra 2wd ext. cab. over 300 km. 5.3 motor auto .... Battery charged, everything is working when key is on, but nothing happens when key is turned to start. Clicking noise can be heard in 5 pin fuse relay located on left side dash fuse panel.. How do I check it? Could have something to do with anti theft system?
View 3 RepliesSo it only happens when I start the car, I'm thinking its the starting needing to be replace. The car starts everytime, Just when it cranks it makes a the noise, but fires up right away. The noise is gone once the car is started.
View 3 RepliesThis is probably a dumb question but what is going on here:
YouTube.....
This is with the AC running. That wheel spin and loud click (it's a lot louder in person) is starting to annoying me. When I am sitting in traffic or at lights and I have the AC running the noise is very noticible in the cab. If the AC is off the idle settles down and the click goes away. So what causes this - AC compressor going out? It needs lube? Freon?
My 2003 Mustang convertible (6cyl) has recently started making a loud clicking noise under the hood that seems to come on after driving in stop-and-go traffic or when turning on the a/c. I don't notice it when driving on the highway at a relatively steady speed. The clicking will continue for a minute or so and then stop for a while. I had also noticed a strange melting plastic or chemical smell coming from under the hood whenever clicking has happened. I had also noticed a couple weeks ago that at stop lights, the a/c was blowing warm air even when on the coldest setting. The air would then become cold again after driving for about a minute. What could this problem (or problems) be and can I fix it (or them) myself?
View 2 Replies2000 ford excursion limited v10 removed factory radio and put aftermarket stereo now wont start just clicking....
View 7 RepliesAs the title says I picked up a 2001 7.3 power stroke excursion and I have some questions.
Issues : Loud hum out of front end at highways speeds I believe this to be the hub main bearing I already have the assemblies apart. Oil leak 4 inch spot after 4 days. door lock actuators. Passenger side inner axle seal leaking (very small leak but I'm sure it will only get worse).
Repairs to be made before road trip in 6 weeks to NC
1. Replace hub assemblies
2. Replace all outer axle seals
3. (Maybe) Inner Axle seals
4. U joints since axles are already out
4. Diff fluid front and rear
5. Trans/transfer case fluid and filter
6. Engine oil and filter
7. Flush coolant and replace thermostat and o ring
8. brake fluid
9. Have truck reviewed by competent diesel mechanic. Know of any in CT?
My main questions are about the carrier. How do I remove the carrier without the spreader tool? Since I'm not changing anything do I need to check backlash before and after removal? If putting it in the freezer before reinstallation to shrink it, to be successful? In everything listed above removal and reinstallation of the carrier makes me nervous being a sensitive drivetrain component.
Either way its definitely a cool truck and id like to get it off the jack stands and start driving it.
I have a 2000 V10 4wd. I'm going to list what happened in time order to best describe this problem. Sometimes when key is off there is a clicking from under the brake proportioning valve and sometimes a 2 second long buzz. When this happens, the A/C blower motor can run with key out also. If mistakenly left on over night it kills the battery.
I also notice that sometimes while driving my airbag light comes on randomly and sometimes it dings with doors closed. Also a few weeks ago the overdrive light starts blinking every few days. A few weeks later it wont start. No crank. So I put in new starter because mine was looking pretty crusty. Still no crank, but if I jump connection on inner fender solenoid/relay, then it starts fine.
Next day I put in a new solenoid/relay on passenger inner fender. Cranks fine and starts fine for the whole day until it randomly begins cranking by it self. With no key in. It did this several times even after re-checking everything and cycling key switch to check for bad connection there. The trans starts shifting hard, like the line pressure increased and sometimes it growls a little when it shifts into 4th
I then figured it was the Digital Trans Range Sensor which only allows start signal to go from key switch to the inner fender solenoid/relay if the trans is in park or neutral. I tested the DTRS and it seems to be working fine. It only has power at the solenoid if its in park or neutral on the tan/red wire, but the wht/pnk wire has power even when not cranking.
Being I couldn't figure out why it had power, I cut the red/lt blu wire at the ignition harness and ran a wire from the key switch side to the solenoid. Cranks and starts fine for 2 days and no mystery cranking either. Then after my wife had it all day acting fine I go to leave work that night in the rain after working a 14 hour day..... no crank. I noticed the "THEFT" light blinking but I've noticed that before and never had an issue starting.
When I came back to work in the morning it cranked and started fine 3 or 4 times then crank but no start again. I reconnected the crank wire back to factory thinking I bypassed something necessary. No change. Still acting randomly. I just ordered a VSS for the rear axle and a new DTRS for the trans. Gonna put these in today and test. Next will be a key switch since I'm having things work with key not on and I have 8volts on my grey/yell Accessory wire with key off.
I found a relay that clicks when inserted in it's socket even if key off. Its located driver side by Firewall by the Brake Booster. It has a tan/red wire(same as activation wire on inner fender solenoid but doesn't effect starting.
I have a schematic of starting system but I can't post pics because new acct here. The starter wire is red/blue at Key Switch then wht/pink after Central Junction Box, then dk blu/org after CPPJ clutch pedal position jumper(mine is auto trans. thats why is has factory jumper) but then turns to wht/pink before the DTRS then tan/red out of DTRS and at solenoid(I'm not sure it goes direct from DTRS to solenoid but color stays). As mentioned earlier, the white/pink wire has power but it shouldn't unless cranking, so its either getting it from the CJB or from where it changes from dk blu/org to wht/pink. Is there anything between the CJB and the DTRS? If nothing then why does color of wire change, and what could be giving the wire power?
Just as a note, in case it matters....my interior lights don't come on when door is opened but when it is open it dings like the key is in even when its not.
About 3 weeks ago, I noticed the SUV would occasional make a loud "CLICK" sound in the front steering area, usually if I made a fast turn motion (either left or right).
So today I put it up on a ramp and took a look and it's obvious there's a part in there that is coming loose. I don't know what the names of the stuff is in there, so I'm posting a photo with arrows & letters so people can tell me what's what, and also what to do.
I tried putting a vise grip on it and tightening it with a ratchet wrench on the top part (16mm), but the lower nut just spins. I decided to not go any further because I really don't know what that assembly is, what it does, if it's broke, etc.
Not my video, but I have the same exact sound coming from my passenger side wheel on my 03 V10 4X4, 130K. Passenger side only, no noise from the other side.
YouTube .....
Before I spring for the Timkin, does this sound like a bad bearing? No play in the wheel, but it's a clicking sound.
We have a 2004 Excursion limited edition with 6.0 diesel. This is a recent purchase for our family. This is our first ever Ford and our first ever Diesel.
Now that we are transitioning into colder weather, we recently tried to place the air from AC to Heater. When we tried, we noticed a clicking or hitting noise from the passenger side behind the glove box. When we stopped the air, the noise stopped. When we kept it on the AC, it stopped. Last night we tried to replicate the issue to get more info and we saw that now its stuck on heater and we lost the AC cold air. The module that is making noise is behind the glove box. It is not coming from the actuator that moves air from the feet to the vents, but it is to the right of the actuator and has a plug with about 4 cables plugged into it.
Questions:
What is this module so that I can order a new one?
Does this sound like a bad HVAC blend door actuator? (not trying to steer it that way if its not.)
Any videos on how to replace it? I only see one bolt that mounts it and it appears to be about 8 mm. Is that the only thing holding it?
2000 excursion V-10. I parked the truck, went back to start it and all my gauges blink, and the number one relay under the dash (interior light relay) begins clicking. The truck will not even crank. The relay will continue clicking (even with the key off) until you remove and replace the relay. Sometimes I will get absolutely nothing when I turn the key. I have tried jumping the battery, no change. Also tried starting it in neutral to trouble shoot the NSS, but it won't even click when in neutral. I checked battery connection, and followed the battery cables to look for a short but found nothing.
View 3 RepliesDrove my son's '01 Santa Fe and the AC is not cooling. The compressor seems to be working but there is a clicking sound coming from under the dash on the passengers side. The clicking is louder when you turn up the speed of the fan. The coolant does not need to be charged.
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