Ford Excursion :: 2001 - Loud Hum Out Of Front End At Highways Speeds
May 18, 2017
As the title says I picked up a 2001 7.3 power stroke excursion and I have some questions.
Issues : Loud hum out of front end at highways speeds I believe this to be the hub main bearing I already have the assemblies apart. Oil leak 4 inch spot after 4 days. door lock actuators. Passenger side inner axle seal leaking (very small leak but I'm sure it will only get worse).
Repairs to be made before road trip in 6 weeks to NC
1. Replace hub assemblies
2. Replace all outer axle seals
3. (Maybe) Inner Axle seals
4. U joints since axles are already out
4. Diff fluid front and rear
5. Trans/transfer case fluid and filter
6. Engine oil and filter
7. Flush coolant and replace thermostat and o ring
8. brake fluid
9. Have truck reviewed by competent diesel mechanic. Know of any in CT?
My main questions are about the carrier. How do I remove the carrier without the spreader tool? Since I'm not changing anything do I need to check backlash before and after removal? If putting it in the freezer before reinstallation to shrink it, to be successful? In everything listed above removal and reinstallation of the carrier makes me nervous being a sensitive drivetrain component.
Either way its definitely a cool truck and id like to get it off the jack stands and start driving it.
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Having problem with my car (2001 Elantra GT) - over the last month or so it's been occasionally making a very loud (not but consistent) grinding noise coming from the front of the car when decelerating at low speeds. The noise sounds like gears slipping over each other but cuts in and out. It's pretty loud and not a nice noise to hear! Sometimes it makes the noise when I brake firmy but not until I reach lower speeds... mostly it's just when coming to a stop, but it did it once last week when I was pulling very slowly out of a parking spot and not even braking.
As it's become more frequent (going form maybe once a week to several times every car journey) I have started to feel something in the brake pedal also, like there's something kicking it from behind. I took it to a mechanic and had to pay a ton of money to get a broken front left ABS ring replaced (it also had the front right ring replaced in May), and within 2 minutes of driving away from the place the noise was back. Before I spend even more money that I don't have on taking it back for extra diagnosis.
I'm told that this is almost certainly the ABS system that has a fault even though the ABS light never shows except when I start the car, and I've taken the fuses out of the ABS in order to confirm that it is. I haven't heard the noise after a few days of driving with ABS unplugged so I think we can be reasonably sure here. Is there anything that I can check myself or test (I'm not very handy when it comes to cars) or can you tell from this information what it's likely to be? Other things that I've noticed with the car which may or may not be relevant are:
- the warning lights for brakes, ABS and TCS are all lit with the fuses for ABS1 and ABS2 taken out. I take it this is normal for all 3 to illuminate with the fuses out?
- since unplugging the ABS I've noticed a slight metallic squeal from the brakes as if the brakes are worn down. Didn't notice this before I unplugged ABS though it may have been there, not sure.
- sometimes when going over a speed bump or just a minor imperfection in the road I hear a clunk in the front of the car and feel something move in the underside of the car. Happens mostly at lower speeds also, but not if I go over the bump really slowly.
- in the fuse box when I took out the ABS fuses I noticed there was a bit of minor melting/brown burn marks on the top of the connections marked (iirc) ECO3 and ECO4 on the diagram (large white connectors). Is this anything to be concerned about?
- sometimes when I have air coming into the car through the air vents it will become significantly warmer for a few minutes, then slowly go back to normal. Can't think of any circumstance that links the times when this happens (eg. speed, weather etc).
- the oil pan has a leak which is on the list of things to fix when the car works properly.
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I bought a new 2010 (Gen III) Prius IV one week ago. I have driven it less than 200 miles. Last night, I experienced a few seconds of steering wheel shaking while driving at highways speeds. I assumed I had hit uneven pavement. At no point was it difficult to turn the wheel. But after the shaking, the car seemed to sometimes drift to one or the other edge of the lane. I chalked that up to unfamiliarity with the car and to rain and darkness. Today, I read Forum posts that described the lighter touch that usually works and the importance of wheel alignment.
After the shaking, another 45 minutes of driving, and a half hour parked, I headed home on a slower road. That is when my wife noticed that the Electric Power Steering warning light was on. We are both pretty sure it was off before that. This morning, I pulled out of the garage and back in, and turned the wheel both ways as it moved. The light did not come on.
I called the dealer to discuss what had occurred. I made a service appointment for Monday so they can check it out. Someone in a Gen II forum (where I mistakenly posted this at first) advised me to pull over and take an evidence photo of the light if it comes on again.
The PS warning light wouldn't be too surprising to see in a Prius driven tens of thousands of miles. If yours ever came on when your Prius had low mileage, I'd be curious to know the outcome. I misidentified a benign icon as the EPS warning light.
The mechanic became suspicious when he couldn't find any code or any trouble. We sketched the icon we remembered seeing for the service supervisor. He explained that it was the cruise control light. I either forgot I had turned cc on or I had pushed it accidentally when I operated the wipers.
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This weekend I am planning to do some major repairs to my X, she is a 2004, Limited, 4X4, 6.0 PSD with about 130K. I am planning to replace my wheel bearings, axel seals, and upper and lower ball joints. Some of these are just maintenance items that I will be replacing since I am already there and others are in hopes of eliminating the hum I am experiencing at highway speeds.
I am looking to purchase the Moog ball joints along with the wheel bearings (which I believe is my noise maker). I am going to replace the axel shaft seals because the right side was leaking when I purchased the X in August 2013. I might even change the front brake pads since they will be removed at the same time, all depends how worn they are.
What else should be replaced?
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I have a 2001 excursion limo with 108,000 its a v-10 2 wheel drive with stock wheels and tires. I believe both my front hub bearings are going out, I am hearing some grinding at slower speeds and while turning, but seems to be ok at highway speeds...Anyway I think I am going to replace both front hub bearing assemblies.
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My 07 AT 2.0 has a weird problem - when auto downshifting after a long drive at highways speeds, the whole car thuds. This happens after driving about 20 miles or so at 60MPH+. 5 or 10 miles are not a problem.
What happens is that when it slips down into 2nd, it sounds like something jams (no grinding). The force/feeling is similar to running into something at a slow speed - like bumping a car while parking.
If I slip into Tip and downshift manually, it doesn't happen. Outside of this the car has 22K miles and drives great.
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I have a 2001 Excursion v10. Every time I turn my AC on, as soon as it engages, there is a very loud clicking/ticking noise coming from the engine. What this is? Is it the compressor going out?
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I have an 01 Excursion. I tried to start it this morning and the radio and lights came on, but all it would do is make a really loud clicking noise. If the battery was dead would the lights come on? My friend who picked me up to take me to work also told me my battery connections needed cleaned...
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I have a 00 expedition 4wheel drive eddie bauer. 100k miles. New tires, recent alignment, new upper ball joints and tie rod ends, recent suspension change over to passive system with new shocks. Also must note I have "newer" front wheel bearings but they were from advance auto and not the suggested Moog ones.
I have a loud clicking noise at slow speeds. def sounds like its coming from the front area. Speeds up and slows down with acceleration. brakes do not change noise other than slow it down with tires. The truck also vibrates on the highway. I notice the tires are wearing (cupping)
Is it the cheap wheel bearings? what is the best way to test for bad wheel bearings? i think they are under warranty if I can find the receipt. Anything else i should test? can it be c/v joints or something?
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I took my first road trip last weekend in my new-to-me 2010 Tiguan. At speeds over 70mph, there is a quite loud buzzing noise from the front of the roof area. It sounds like 2 pieces of metal are slapping together at a very high rate of speed. I can't for the life of me figure out what it could be. It is really, really annoying. So much so, that I may take another car for my NYC to Florida trip next month. I'd really like to take the Tiguan though...
I have the panoramic roof - it all seems tight and has no rattles whatsoever. There are no loose moldings, no gaps in the windshield molding. The roof rails appear to be tight, however the front of the right one is slightly raised off of the roof surface. I was going to try to tighten it somehow, but don't know how to even access the screws that hold it down.
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2001 6.8 Ex wouldn't start again today Get a loud click but starter doesn't turn over. Yesterday jumped it, took it to Advance where they checked battery and alternator; both checked out great. To start it this morning I ran my negative jumper from battery to engine block and it fired up It's about 12 degrees out and was same yesterday. Thinking dirty/bad ground somewhere ? Do I just start following the negative cable everywhere it goes or am I missing something here No garage and it is chilly.
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Just picked up an 01 4x4 v10 a few weeks ago. I have a severe vibration that occurs when I hit a bump at highway speeds. The vibration cannot be felt in the steering, and I must come to a complete stop to cure it. There is a rattle, consistent with rotation coming from the passenger front tire. It seems to get louder the longer the I drive it, Going away and starting over after the truck has sat for a few minutes. I have had the truck on a lift and there is no play in ball joints or tie rods. I have recently replaced the sway bar end links. When this started I had the front tires balanced to make sure that's not the issue.
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I have an 01 V10 4x4 with front end noise. I've done steering linkages and sway bar bushings. The clunks are gone but I'm left with some creaks when the body sways.
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What all is needed to swap to the newer style and how easy is it?
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I have a 2001 Excursion 4x4 with 35" tires and 139,5000 miles on the clock. After driving about 20 miles yesterday while running errands, I heard a "chirping" noise. Since I had just left a stoplight, I first blamed it on the Jeep Grand Cherokee leaving the light with me. It wasn't long before I realized the noise was coming from the Ex. I noticed the sound around 40 to 45 mph and while keeping the truck fairly straight. I caught some video/audio but didn't see where I could upload it.
The ball joints have greasible zerks so I know there are not OEM but, other than that, I don't know when/if the wheel bearings or sealed units have been replaced. Recommendations? Is it a good idea to go ahead and replace bearings, sealed wheel bearing assemblies, and seals to have a reference point and prevent damage or failure?
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01 Excursion V10 4x4 230000 miles
When making slow left turns, and sometimes hitting bumps going straight at low speeds 15-35 mph I hear and feel a crunching noise right below the gas pedal floor board area. I;ve had it checked out on a lift plus sitting on the ground and no none can figure out where the crunching (or banging) noise is coming from. Ball joints & tie rods are good, had them checked.
I bought the truck a yr ago and do not know much history of the vehicle. Is does still have the stock wheels, michlin tires and suspension. Ball joints and tie rods were replaced some time ago, not sure when...
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I figured out what was causing my small clunking noises in the front end.. They were faint, but you could hear them at low speeds..
Front sway bar bushes and end links.. Replaced mine with auto7 bushes and moog endlinks.. They didnt "feel" loose or wobbled but replacing these parts got rid of my clunks..
Only downside was the bushes are really hard to replace, need to remove the rack, subframe, etc..
My car has about 150k miles, and the bushes were a little oval..
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I have am 01 6.8 two wheel Limited. about 150K. My question is about both the front tires having more wear on both the inner and outer edges. The inner is a bit more but not by much.
I have been keeping very close track of my air pressure because I know the usual suspect is low air pressure but I am running 75psi and the max sidewall reads 80psi. I have never had it below 72psi. The truck tracks and steers down the road very nice with no drift or pull to either side. wheel balance is good.
Front end align is good. I have no issues with how she drives down the road. Everything seems to be checking out to be in spec..?
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We were using my 2001 7.3 4x4 (automatic, manual lock outs) in 4 low yesterday on dry pavement in an attempt to pull out the remainder of a 6x6 post in concrete. We were working her pretty hard alternating directions of pulling. At one point we heard a loud bang (see also: thud; pop; etc). It seemed at that point that the front axle was no longer functioning in 4wd. We still had the low gearing feel, but at one point I noticed my rear tires trying to slip on the driveway, but fronts didn't appear to be pulling anymore.
Long story short, came in, went to bed, went out this morning and thought I'd jack up the front end and roll the tires in both 'free' and 'lock' to see if the universal joints (yokes?) behind each wheel were spinning or not, depending on whether free or locked in. I noticed on the passenger side a few drops of a clear/light colored fluid that had dripped from behind the dust cover that isn't functioning any longer. The joints worked as they should, based on if it was locked in or not.
I decided to go ahead and put the back axle on jackstands as well and see how it was working when "driving". When in 2wd, rear worked, front was stationary, as it should be. when in 4high, rear spun, front driver spun erratically, nothing from passenger front (where I had seen drip). 4low was same thing - erratic on driver side, at best.
So I know I have front axle/transfer case issues. The question is, with the drip (smells like grease, so I'm assuming its gear oil?) would I be safe to drive it a few days with hubs in free position? I don't want all of the fluid leaking out when I'm driving down the road. I use the truck for work and wouldn't be able to be without it until later in the week or next week. But I also don't want to drive it if it will just make my predicament worse.
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I bought this truck a little over a year ago and have put almost 30,000 miles on it. When I bought it, it had a clunk from the front end, but only when I went over a significant bump. It was most pronounced when I, for example, hit a speed bump at an angle and the body rocked back and forth. It's steadily been getting worse and now it's fairly concerning. It happens on pretty much every bump now. Additionally, I've developed a fairly significant shimmy under braking and a vibration over 65mph. I got into a fairly scary shimmy when trying to slow down as I was going down a mountain a few weeks ago.
The other day I started getting a grinding noise from the front right. It goes away when the brakes are pressed. I don't know if the grinding noise and vibration/shimmy are related to the clunking or if they are the result of a separate issue. I have plenty of brake pad and rotor on all corners and there is no perceptible play in any of the front end components (wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rods, shock mounts, etc.). I suspected the leaf spring bushings, but I supported the truck by the frame and still got no noticeable play when jerking things around by hand.
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I applied brakes while car was moving slowly, less than 10 mph, and heard loud grinding sound coming from left front as car stopped. Shifted to reverse and car barely moved, less than 1 foot, which was accompanied by the loud grinding sound, then stopped. I could find nothing interfering with the wheels but did find pieces of brake pad on the ground along the path the left front wheel had followed. The left front wheel appeared as if the calipers were holding whatever remained of the brake pad and/or backing tight against the rotor. brake pad fell apart on 2002 at 43,561 miles...
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