well as the title says, i lost my only key to my 01' excursion, and now am gonna have to find a locksmith in Los Angeles willing to come out and not only cut but program the key as well
View 14 RepliesThinking back, this may have started Saturday.... or may be earlier. Saturday I noticed smoke out the exhaust when I would let off the throttle, like coming up to a stop sign, or getting off an off-ramp. Didn't think that much of it. Yesterday I notice its worse, so I'm looking at my Quadzilla monitor on the way home and I'm seeing ZERO psi of boost.....
Is it possible I lost my turbo and my Excursion still motored down the highway towing 7,000 lbs. with the cruise @ 65 and the truck never skipped a beat ??
Got it home so I could unload the trailer...... at this point is there any harm in running the truck to get the trailer into the back yard to get the trailer put away and get the truck in my driveway to work on it? Tried to do some reading here last night and it looks like plenty of others have lost a turbo and (apparently) not sent shrapnel into their engine.
I assume I can find a disassembly / assembly video on Youtube on removing a turbo from a 7.3. Can the Riffraff turbo rebuild be done by a guy who is mechanically inclined, but by no means a diesel mechanic ?? What other parts will I need in the process?
My 02 Ex V10 suddenly lost its power steering. And I mean completely, so it was a bitch to get it home. There are no leaks and the reservoir is full. It makes no noise at all when I try and turn the wheel, so it does not even sound like the pump is working at all. Does this sound like the pump or the gear box? Is there an easy way to tell before I just order the pump and hope that is the problem?
View 2 RepliesThe stock radio in my 2003 X seems to have lost a lot of volume. I assume there is a stock amplifier but where it would be. Is it internal to the radio? I did check all fuses that were related to the radio.
View 3 RepliesRear lift gate refuses to stay up in cooler weather, cylinders must have leaked down.
View 14 RepliesSo tonight, I lost most of my brakes. If I kept at low speeds and pressed the pedal to the floor I could eventually stop, but not well. I imagine this might be more of a general question not specific to Ex's, but I thought I would start here.
View 4 Replies2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 DOHC. Starting Problem. When the door is opened the interior lights come on, door dings, etc. As soon as the ignition is turned everything goes black all power is lost. Disconnect battery cable and reconnect, the open door again and the interior lights come on, door dings, insert key and turn, everything goes black, the car does not start. This cycle repeats over and over again every time the battery is disconnected and reconnected. I have replaced the battery, ignition switch. The starter was replaced last year. Why does power blackout, and car not start when the key is turned?
View 1 RepliesMy wife has a 01 ford focus zx3 3 door automatic wont start she was driving and it lost power and shut down I replaced the plugs, wires, pcv hose and pcv valve, coil, fuel pump good 40psi, compression 150 to 180, even drop the converter still wont start could the injectors play a role.....
View 11 RepliesDriving along, suddenly lost gears, engine revved a slight bit then lost power and stalled, the engine turns over but will not start but when it turns its in a lower key sound, the timing belt is in place but has recently been changed, would you think it has slipped? Seems a total lack of combustion in the top of the engine, would a slipped timing belt cause this?
View 4 RepliesThe light engine is on - I understand that the O2 sensor on bank one is gone, the car hesitates and I would like to understand what is wrong. Maybe other sensors or perhaps the turbo. The car has 62,000 miles. Will the car recup power by replacing the bad O2 sensor?
View 2 RepliesI purchased my 2001 Nissan Sentra about 4 weeks ago and the check engine light came on about a week into owning it. I scheduled an appointment to get it checked, but continued to drive it without issue until one day I started it and as soon as I began driving it lost power. The more gas I gave it, the worse it got. It just wouldn't let me go anywhere. So I parked the car and let it sit for about an hour. Then when I went back to show someone else the problem, the car started and drove again like nothing was wrong. Since then, this has been happening frequently. I will start the car, it will spit and sputter and lose power, I will turn the car off and wait a while, it will start up again no problem.
My local mechanic told me the computer was throwing a bunch of different codes, including the one for the catalytic converters. They also told me that since the problem seems electrical (the car seems to reset itself when I turn it off) it could be that the computer is going and that’s what needs to be replaced. I've taken the car back to the dealership where I bought it, they replaced the oxygen sensors, thinking that would fix the problem. I just got the car back yesterday and drove it for about 60 miles without any problems, then that check engine light came back on and the same old problem is back. My question is, how do I know if the problem is mechanical or electrical? What if I replace the catalytic converters when it’s actually the computer that was the problem all along or vice versa?
Check engine light came on and stayed on today. Engine lost almost all power so I guess I was in "limp home mode". CEL ODB-II code was P2138 according to AutoZone.
Accelerator position sensor malfunction
Probable causes:
1. Open or short circuit condition
2. Poor electrical connection
3. Failed APS.
After turning off the vehicle, it seems fine at least in town but the check engine light is still on. This is the first "problem" with the vehicle and it's at about 98K.
My 03 2.7 has suddenly lost around 4 MPG in city driving. Haven't taken it out on the highway to know where that is at. Used to get around 20/21 and now I'm around 16/17. Mileage is at 97k now and has new spark plugs and brakes done recently. I know the brakes are not dragging. All the fluids are fairly new and the car drives the same as before, I can't feel a difference in performance. Just lower gas mileage. I haven't changed out the T-stat yet, but the temp gauge in car reads the same as always. I checked the car with a code checker and there are no pending codes. I know this is the age where the oxygen sensors could start to go bad and have never replaced them.
View 12 Replies2001 Santa Fe with 2.4 engine auto FWD 198k miles. When it is started first in the day, the engine sounds good and shifts well. After a few minutes and also after stops, first gear works well but then the following gears do not work well almost as if the engine and the transmission quit talking to each other. Traveling at 60 mph starting up a medium hill, the car downshifted and could not pick a gear. Although I pushed the pedal harder, the car did not respond rather continued to slow down. It acts like I lose 2 of the 4 cylinders in all cases. I replaced the spark plugs and two of them had oil on top of the plugs and also all around the threads. I replaced both coils thinking that one of them was the issue but no change has been observed. I replaced the throttle position sensor; no performance change. I do not believe it is the transmission as I have not notice any clunking, or bad shifting when starting out. While coasting at 40 mph in neutral and my pedal pressed at a certain position, the rpm gauge fluctuated from 3k to 3.6k many times for the duration of 20 seconds.
View 2 RepliesMy 2001 Santa Fe 2,4l - Have suddenly lost the abillity to shift gear. Its stuck in 2 and the shift stick is very loose in the "front to back and back to front" motion.. in other words there are resistance sideways.
I suspect it to be a broken shift cable. So my question is : changing shift cable on a santa fe easy? Is the best approach to start from inside the vehicle or from transmission side?
I bought my van in 2011 from my dad's former employer. It was a fleet vehicle and wasn't in the greatest of condition when I bought it. In 2012 I was told that I had a leak in my oil pan from a mechanic. I never ended up getting it fixed for various reasons. A few months ago, I lost power steering in my van and have been driving since without it. My dad wanted to see if anything could be done to fix it and found out the van is completely rusted underneath and ended up puncturing a hole in the bottom when he tried to jack the thing up. I am really hoping to get a (new) used car but don't have the money right now. I was wondering though how long would you expect I could "survive" with my car like this?
View 16 RepliesI have a 2001 Mercury Sable with 114k miles. Just bought it and it ran fine for the most part until one day while coming home from work. It was still running but lost a lot of power and wouldn't go fast at all. I took it to my mechanic and he told me that this car has 3 converters on the exhaust system. First of all, I think having 3 is overkill and secondly, I am wondering why these things are so expensive. The one up front that mounts to my manifold is $350 just for the part. The one in the back can be bypassed (legally) but why did they make this system so complex and what are my options at this point? If I found a Sable that was being parted out, could I use the converters from that? Would it have to be the same year?
View 15 RepliesI'm having trouble with the automatic transmission in my 04' Elantra, it acted like the speed sensor was failing, but later the same day it lost all gears, forward and reverse. after turning the car off and sitting a while I started it back up and had gears again, but the trany is making noise. Fluid level is ok.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Elantra with about 132,000 miles. I was out driving today and the transmission started to shift rough. Than at a stop light the car would not accelerate. I had to put the car into low or 2nd gear to get the car to move. Than the radio started to cut in and out and than the gauges on the dash started to turn on and off. When I arrived home and parked and turned the car off, it won't start back up.
View 2 Replies I have a 2001 Chrysler (Mitsubishi) Sebring Lxi Coupe with the 3.0-liter V6 engine and (in)famous Chrysler A-604 4-speed automatic transmission. Mileage is approx. 115,000. Several days ago, I was on the highway doing 60 mph when the car suddenly, and without making any noise, lost power, as if the engine had quit. When I gave it more gas, the rpm on the tach shot up quickly to 3500, but the car was still losing speed. The Check Engine Light never comes on. Long story short, I pulled over to the side of the road and got the car flat-bedded home. The engine starts and run normally, but the car will not move in any forward gears (drive, first or second) nor in reverse.
The OBD II module is not throwing any codes that are related to a transmission problem. The transmission fluid is not discolored and does not smell or look "burnt". The fluid level is at the full mark on the dip stick. Up to this point, the transmission has performed and shifted flawlessly. I have serviced the transmission regularly every 30,000 miles since buying the car with 60,000 miles on it. I have been reading that this transmission was one of the first to be designed with electronically activated shifting, and has been installed in many models of Chrysler cars, vans, and pickups starting in 1989. Any way to check whether this may be an electrical/electronic problem first before getting a tow to a transmission shop for diagnosis of an internal mechanical failure requiring overhaul or a new trans?
2001 windstar, IMRC works fine (closed) under 3000 rpm. When above 3000 rpm the intake runners open and i get surging/loss of power.
No error codes.