I have a 2001 excursion limo with 108,000 its a v-10 2 wheel drive with stock wheels and tires. I believe both my front hub bearings are going out, I am hearing some grinding at slower speeds and while turning, but seems to be ok at highway speeds...Anyway I think I am going to replace both front hub bearing assemblies.
View 12 RepliesHave a 2001 Corolla with 150k miles on it. It isn't straight up dying, but it is shuddering when driving at slower speeds or while stopped at a stop light. Have had the air intake looked at so that shouldn't be it. Sometimes the lights on the dash will dim when this happens but not sure if it might be a battery issue or that is just happening because the car is dying.
View 4 RepliesOne my F350 with 175,000 miles on it, at low speeds when turning the steering wheel it seems as if it has two places during use that it rubs or has an oblong spot in it. I have 285 tires on it and have for years.
Kind of like if you were turning a shaft in a seal and it rubbed or was rough. It makes a faint, muffled, barely audible grinding noise or feel. I have a lift and level of about 4" and 285s for years. This just started in the last 5 months or so.
When turning right, either sharply or just during a long gradual turn in the road, I hear a grinding or running sound consistent with RPM coming from the rear - I think the right rear. It driving flat, no sound. If turning left, no sound. To me, it seems if the right rear is unloaded a bit weight wise, the sound occurs.
I'm thinking wheel bearing. Hoping not differential, but it really does seem to come from right rear not center of rear. Only if turning right and moving weight to left side.
Brought my Treg in for service today for a host of things:
Grinding/Scrubbing when turning at low speeds. TPM Pull to the right/Alignment/Uneven tire wear.
Limited remote range
Drivers side whistling noise when fan speed at 3-4 bars and windows are closed
Service Advisor tells me the Transmission Control Module is the cause of the scrubbing/grinding at low speeds. I have seen the posts with respect to the Stepper motors.
I have a 2013 Passat TDi SE with about 64000 miles on it and 20 rims. I noticed a grinding noise when turning right at low speeds. It was a very slight noise at first, but has gotten louder over the past 1-2 months. The grinding noise sounds like it's coming from the back of the car and only at fairly tight turning radii, with speeds 10 - 20 mph (think going up the levels of a parking garage). What could this be????
Other things to note:
No other noises, vibrations accompany the sound.
I do get the steering rack creek when turning lock-to-lock, but this sound is definitely not that sound.
I mentioned I have 20 wheels thinking that might have something to do with it. They don't rub at all going in a straight line, however.
Sound is only present when turning right.
I have a 2004 Echo with the 5 speed manual. Everything is factory original on this car except the tires. (159,000 km). While turning hard to the right at low speeds or pulling away from a stop and turning right, I get a harsh grinding/scraping noise and it seems to be coming from the drivers front wheel. If it was a CV joint, or wheel bearing, wouldn't it make noise all the time?
View 3 Replies I drive a 2004 chevy Tahoe and have had this problem for about 8 months. It started out very faint and occasional, but has now escalated to loud and consistent. So it ONLY happens when turning right. I've tried to replicate it when turning left and had no success. It happens when I am turning fairly hard at a decent speed. ex. Pulling into my driveway. I've already checked the wheel bearings and Ball joints.
Another thing is that the ABS light is on sometimes when i start the car and comes on every time i turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. It also has a problem where it will shake almost uncontrollably when driving at 65+MPH after hitting a bump or sometimes just randomly on a smooth surface. We just got new tires and balanced them. It did the same with the previous set we had. I know I'm asking for a lot, but where to start?
A while ago I had a '99 Ranger. Long bed, regular cab, 2wd, 5-speed, 2.3. I had really poor acceleration. I was used to Toyota pickups with the 2.4 22RE, and the Ranger was considerably slower to come to highway speeds.
So, I took it to two different dealers, and they told me "that's just the way they are." I guess I believed them and sold the truck. Now, I am kind of thinking about another Ranger. Do people here think the '99 2.3 has an acceleration problem? Are there certain years to avoid the I4 in a Ranger?
I have a 2012 F-150 4x4 super crew all factory with 54,000 mi. I've noticed a new noise/hum at slower speeds, more frequent now. The noise doesn't sound like its from the front or back specifically. I pulled the front wheels this evening and the front rotors seem pretty tight, how easily should they turn with vehicle off for about 30 min? I started it and pushed and released the brake and quickly tried to turn them, very tight, after a minute or two they relaxed a little, another 5 min they seemed tighter? I sharpie mark on both inside and outside of the rotor and turned it past the pads and they are both squeezing equally ruling out binding of the slider bolts.
View 3 RepliesWhenever Im driving at slower speeds - parking lots, side streets, etc I get a squeaking/squelching sound coming from somewhere in the front end of the truck. I thought at first it may have been a rattling heat shield someplace under the truck, but now Im not so sure. No loss of power, check engine light, or anything of that nature has occurred so Im not sure what to do. Its a 2010 Ford F150 XLT 4wd ....
View 5 RepliesI have a 2014 V6 Mustang. Recently I've begun to smell that special scent of burning metal intermittently, more often at slower speeds or when stopped completely. In addition I've noticed that my mileage has been dropping a bit and that the car doesn't pick up quite as fast as it used to. Today on a hunch I put the car on a non-incline surface and let the clutch out relatively quickly. I was shocked to discover that it didn't stall - it absolutely would have when it was newer. The brakes also don't appear to be shedding dust so I don't think one of them is locking up.
Normally these would be signs of a clutch going bad. I'm suspicious because my car only has 25,000 miles on it. It has been driven through two Michigan winters and thus subjected to some abuse, but even if I were riding the clutch daily (I would never) I would be surprised to see it go out so young. Should I be looking at something else, or should I just break down, go to the dealer, and fight with them until they replace it?
The other day I pulled a fella out of a ditch. It was a dulley 350 with a lowboy trailer and a small dozer on it.
Well, after finishing and driving away. I inadvertently left the truck in 4x4 while driving on wet pavement at speeds ~30 mph. What I noticed was: when I let off the accelerator there was a low growl/vibration noise coming from the front/under the floorboards while the truck coasted to slower speeds.
I have never had my truck A) in 4x4 on clear roads or B) at speeds above 10mph in 4x4. Maybe they all make noise at low speeds in a quite cab in 4x4. I wouldn't know, I've never driven it under these conditions.
So, can you hear your truck in 4x4 when not giving it gas and coasting on the road?
I did not think I put the truck through too much while pulling that fella out, but now I'm wondering....oh, and I at one point I coasted forward and ran over the towing strap that was attached to my front pull hook and it made a HECK of a noise...could that have done something bad?
4x4 still works, and everything seems/sounds fine otherwise. I might just be hearing the front end putting friction on the transfer case and I can hear it in the tranny as she coasts to a stop (it goes away as soon as I press the accelerator at any speed) but like I said, I've never noticed this before.
As the title says I picked up a 2001 7.3 power stroke excursion and I have some questions.
Issues : Loud hum out of front end at highways speeds I believe this to be the hub main bearing I already have the assemblies apart. Oil leak 4 inch spot after 4 days. door lock actuators. Passenger side inner axle seal leaking (very small leak but I'm sure it will only get worse).
Repairs to be made before road trip in 6 weeks to NC
1. Replace hub assemblies
2. Replace all outer axle seals
3. (Maybe) Inner Axle seals
4. U joints since axles are already out
4. Diff fluid front and rear
5. Trans/transfer case fluid and filter
6. Engine oil and filter
7. Flush coolant and replace thermostat and o ring
8. brake fluid
9. Have truck reviewed by competent diesel mechanic. Know of any in CT?
My main questions are about the carrier. How do I remove the carrier without the spreader tool? Since I'm not changing anything do I need to check backlash before and after removal? If putting it in the freezer before reinstallation to shrink it, to be successful? In everything listed above removal and reinstallation of the carrier makes me nervous being a sensitive drivetrain component.
Either way its definitely a cool truck and id like to get it off the jack stands and start driving it.
My drivers window gets progressively slower the further down it goes. Does this seem like motor is shot? Can you open window motor case and rebuild it like the older ford window motors?
View 4 RepliesOK, when I first got the car in June it needed strut mounts so I got the 034's and new bearings and all was good, recently I noticed just a creaking/knocking type noise, not the same as before. So I checked the bolts on the mounts just in case and they are good. Been reading lately about the subframe and it is leading me to believe that may be it. The noise is more noticeable at slower speeds when just going over slight road imperfections(like small dips) and sometimes I do not hear it at all even over rough roads?
View 6 RepliesBrakes are too agressive on the Passat 3.6L 4Motion? Seems like the initial application, especially at slower speeds is too jerky. You have to be very soft on the pedal so as to not get your passengers hit the dash...
While you do want brakes that grab, I think that the modulation needed is beyond most drivers talent in order to execute a smooth stop without jerking.
I track my other car, so I'm familiar with brake modulation and race pads but again for a normal driver, this does not seem normal. The Audi A6 Bi-turbo is much smoother.
I have a 2001 Ford F-250 with the gas v-10. Yesterday it started just fine as always. Today I get into it and it starts to turn over just fine then starts to make a grinding sound and the truck won't start. I have had a fuel issue in the mornings with once it started you had to barely press the gass to keep it running. But never makes a funny sound and always runs fine. This only last for a couple of min and then it runs fine for the rest of the day. The grinding is not the starter. I took it off and had it checked and it was fine.
The truck had been using oil. When I checked the oil level it was low but it was still on the stick. "I know a motor needs oil to run smooth but it's my dads truck and well let's just say he is not the best on maintenance". Also I smelled the oil and it does have a gas smell to it. So it definitely does have some gas in the oil. I tried to light the dipstick with a lighter and it wouldn't light. So not sure how much gas is in it but that's what I did.
So the question is, would something just in mid crank go bad and then not let the motor crank. Truck made no weird noises before this so I find it hard to believe the barrings just went out in mid crank and now it is shot.
Also I just checked compression on front cylinders.
Driver side read 75lbs
passenger side read 100lbs
It's a metal on metal rattle sound when I'm going slower speeds and paved residential streets that are a little rough. passenger front is where it seems to be coming from. I can almost know when it's going to do it when I'm coming up on a rough spot on the road. super frustrating. Started noticing if after my mechanic replaced both front springs when my driver side spring broke. Took it back to him and he couldn't hear it and made sure everything was tight. What it could be. Thought maybe stabalizer link but not sure how to tell if it's bad.
View 1 RepliesWhen I gently apply the brakes at slower speeds there is a single "click" noise. This happens every time. I took it to the dealer. They said it was normal. I am just trying to find out if indeed it is. Do other people get this click when they apply the brakes.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2007 volvo S40 T5 AWD with 25,000 miles. When driving at slower speeds and I let off the gas, I hear a "clunking" noise similar to driving over a lose manhole cover. The car makes a very slight jerk as well. I notice this as well between 2nd and 3rd gear, but not just then. I am thinking transmission problem, but don't know and want some info before heading to the dealer.
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