Ford Excursion :: 2001 - Door Ajar Switch Stuck In Open Position?
Apr 19, 2017
2001 excursion 4'4 V10 XLT.
One or more of my door switches is stuck in open position. Door ajar light on and interior lights on.
Interior lights stay on for about 15 min than go off.
I have sprayed all 4 doors and both rear hatch lock assemblies several times with WD40 and electrical cleaner with no improvement.
When I open drivers door there is no key chime with key in cylinder. Could the hood switch cause this issue? How do I determine which door/doors is/are the offending crimimals?
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It was working fine then I drove on a 2 hour highway trip and now it will not open. This is the Xtra cab where you open the front door and then the rear from the inside. The door ajar switch is out. I suspect one of the latches is stuck. There is one on the top and one on the bottom of the door.
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None of my 4 keys will operate my ignition switch.
It's stuck in off position. Steering wheel is not locked and I have pulled pretty hard on it to see if I could get the ignition switch to turn.
I have a new switch on the way but I have to get the old one out and don't know how to get old one out if I cannot turn the switch to on position.
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The lock on the rear driver side door doesn't work, it stuck on lock position and it won't open with the remote. You can't even turn the lock by hand from inside. It's like it's jammed or something. The rear passenger door lock was broken a while ago, it was making a nasty noise but still working so I had it changed but this one just stopped working.
How am I gonna fix that. I was thinking in order to fix the lock, they have to remove the door panel first, and to remove the door panel the door should be open to get to the screws. Is it gonna be stock for ever ?
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The "door open" light is stuck on and the truck thinks one of them is open. I went around and slammed all the doors and it went off. Didn't think anything of it till we went on a road trip and now its stuck on. No door slamming is working. How to unstick the sensor wherever it is?
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Having issues with the door switches. My driver door, when opened, will cause a quick "door ajar" message then go back to as if I closed the door. Only once have I closed the door to have the dome light stay on. Doesn't do it all the time but is more frequent with the cold weather setting in. I got the service truck next week so its a good time to bring it in for warranty work.....
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Any trick? I folded down the larger (driver's side) middle seat to get a large payload in...now it won't pop back up...no matter how much lever pushing and seat-yanking I do. It's a 2001 Limited.
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Lubricating each door switch has not work to fix the "door ajar" issue on a 2003 Ford Expedition EB model. I have traced both front door wires to a single harness plug, but have not been able to find a pin-out description. Where on the wire harness each door ajar switch can be tested?
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I have 2001 EX with the 7.3 and my rear vent windows stuck open and I am stumped as to what might be the culprit. There isn't any power getting to the switches in the overhead console.
I replaced the relay 204 in the engine compartment, I believe that is the correct one.
Where the actual fuse is located for this and its number? Because both of them are stuck open not just one side.
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So yesterday I installed a Kenwood Double Din with a back up camera....that being said I was in and around the car all day, door panels, trim panels, rear bumper etc etc all removed. After completing the install the "Door Ajar" light stayed on, on the dash. No interior lights remained on to show a doors open, and the trunk light goes out when the doors closed. The drivers side door module is no good, and its been no good for a few months now. It doesn't show when the doors open, so i doubt that is the problem. What it could be? Any way to figure out which door is the one that's staying open?
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I bought my 2001 with 85k and prepared myself that it would likely need some work. Had cat-back replaced a week after purchase. Next up, door locks - I can hear the switches in all 4 doors trying to lock/unlock, they move ever so slightly which makes me think that due to minor usage over the past 14 years, they are just a bit sticky on the inside of the door panel. Before I go tearing off the door panels. Not sure I uploaded pics correctly....
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Like the title says, my 99 ranger has the door ajar light stuck on, which in turn is making the dome light stay on. It's kinda been acting up lately, but would go out eventually. Today I washed it and had the doors open for a while. After I shut the doors and started it the light stayed on and hasn't gone off since. I pulled the negative cable tonight. And no, the doors aren't open! FWIW I cant pull the doors any tighter closed and make the light go out..
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Door ajar light is on all the time. How do I check which of the eight switches are bad. I've tried the wd spray trick before and it worked but now it won't respond to that treatment and is on all the time. Overhead light goes out after a few minutes of driving.
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When I turned the key on, interior lights stayed on and the door "ajar" icon was on. Open and shut all the doors including the rear hatch. Still on. Did it again and still on. Ran X through the car wash yesterday and all worked OK when I parked it. Didn't have my glasses on so I could not see a specific door open. In fact they all appeared to be open. Did not have time to screw with it.
Where are the door/hatch switches located?
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The "Door Ajar" light on my Ex has apparently decided that I would enjoy having the little red light on the dash illuminated. Normally, I'd consider this just a nuisance, but it's convinced the interior and running board lights to play along so that they don't go out until they time out. I'm pretty sure that it's in the rear door somewhere. Where the sensor(s) are for the rear doors and how to test them?
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So my 2000 ex has the door ajar light on. I have narrowed it down to the drivers side rear door. I have sprayed wd40 and pb blaster into the latch and its still on.
I have taken the panel off and sprayed everything inside. I pulled apart the wires running inside the door and tried doing some experimenting with twisting wires together, Hoping to close off the circuit.
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I am sure that it is not related to the doors or latch sensors not working because I've sprayed a ton of lube in there, lots of door slamming, and the "Door Ajar" light isn't on with the truck keyed on. I already have the middle row map light bulbs removed. I heard that should fix it but didn't. Running board lights won't go out but not the door/hatch sensors?
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I own a 2002 excursion and my dash light for door ajar stays on, I pulled all of the contacts off the rear doors and hatch and found that there are no electric hook up to what I thought would be the contacts i needed to be looking at. So what relays the signal to my dash that the doors are in fact closed?
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My 08 Prius developed a hiccup yesterday. While driving down the interstate there was an occasional red flash from the dash. It would come and go so fast that by the time I could actually process it and focus it was gone. I had to stop by the dentist office as I was ready to walk out the door I heard a car in the parking lot with the horn/alarm sounding. I mentioned to the folks in the waiting room that someone alarm was going off. A lady replied that green Prius with the bike rack!
Sure enough it was mine! I was unable to find any causal factor. I left there and at my next stop, the horn/alarm started sounding just as I walked through the entrance door to Home Depot back to the parking lot. This time the Door Ajar/Open light on the dash was lit. I opened and closed all the doors and hatch. The Door Ajar light was still on I then manually manipulated all the door switches and opened/closed/slammed the hatch several times. No Joy I drove home.
About the only thing I was able to find was that it was probably the hatch, the switch is sealed within the locking/latch mechanism and that I could simply just unplug it. So I began troubleshooting.
After removing the rear hatch/floor, plastic bin, etc. I removed the plastic cover from around the latch (above the bumper not on the hatch lid), then removed the longer plastic cover that runs along the same area and provides the cover for the area between the rubber gasket and the inside of the hatch/floor area. Now I was able to see the latch mechanism and associated wiring (looking down toward the spare tire well). I also had the hatch light turned on (left side) which was easier to see than the Door/Ajar light on the dash.
I manually tripped the latch and the light flickered. I pressed down on the latch (hoping to put more pressure on the internal switch)…the light continued to flicker. Using a 10mm socket, I removed the latch, wiring retainers and disconnected the plug. The electrical plug, located about 8†to the left of the latch has 4 wires. The two on the bottom power the electrically operated latch and the two on top go to the Door Ajar switch (the one that is inside the latch assembly).
I noticed a little bit of corrosion and discoloration on one of the male pins (the plug that is connected to the latch end of the wiring). The female plug (connected to the car end of the wiring) also had some discoloration.
I plugged them back together and found that as I moved the wires/plug the light would flicker and change sometimes turning off. I unplugged it and connected my ohm meter (using small jumper wires with clips) to the two top (male) pins on the switch end of the plug. The switch tested fine. I even tested it with my homemade battery powered continuity light (wanting to test the switch under a load). I also wiggled the wires going into the plug itself, Perfect, no problems here! So, I determined the problem was truly with the plug itself. I also jumped the two female connectors with a short piece of wire (simulating the switch) and the light would come on (as it should have). OK, plug problem confirmed!
I cleaned the pins (both male and female), applied some dielectric compound and plugged it up. The light remained off for a few seconds then started flickering again! I could even hear a slight hissing sound coming from the plug (never a good sign). I tried tweaking the male pins (bending them slightly trying for a better connection) No Joy.
I clipped the wires (only the top two) from each end of the plug (red & white/black stripe wires coming from the latch).
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Bought a '02 V10 gas 4wd Ex a week ago pretty cheap, and looking to fix a multitude of little issues.
I have been reading about the door ajar warning light issue, and mine alike has door ajar light always on. However, my dome/interior lights do not react to the opening of any doors/rear door hatch.
It's not out of the question that the last owner might have disconnected what he needed to to avoid fixing the problem and still use the truck. Where to start given I can't troubleshoot down to one particular door ajar sensor?
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My 04' FX4 rear door locks hesitate to open with the key fob or the door switch. I can get them to open sometimes but not every time. Why this is happening?
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