My 2001 Excursion's 4x4 low and high do not work at all. Any chance it could be a simple issue? I bought the vehicle last spring and didn't notice any issues until it started to snow.
View 14 RepliesRecently my brakes were feeling a little spongy so I took my X to a local shop who installed new front and rear brake pads and flushed the brake fluid. The brakes seemed to operate properly.
But, then while driving on the interstate in Tampa, I had to SLAM on the brakes but it seemed like it took forever to slow down. It's hard to describe, but it's like when you are moving at interstate speeds and then you have to SLAM on the brakes, the X just slows down and comes to an eventual stop. It does not stop quickly.
I do not feel any pulsing from the antilock braking system so I don't think it is being activated for some reason. This seems to only happen at faster speeds. I have no problem when driving around town and slowing down for stop signs or red lights. It slows and stops just fine.
So I took the X back to the shop and they replaced the Booster w Ford booster. I thought I checked it out as soon as I picked it up around town AND on the interstate.
But, today I had to SLAM on the brakes while on the interstate again and it is acting just like before - just slowing down, but not fast and without the antilock brakes activating (apparently).
Down hill toward intersection with light that turned red. I braked fairly hard and then all of a sudden, brake pedal goes to floor and I go through the light. I pump brake once or twice and still nothing. Luckily I made it through without hitting anyone and eventually stopped with emergency brake. Turns out the line to the rear brakes blew. It was probably weak and maybe the pressure from braking hard blew it. This was sudden. There was no warning whatsoever. Reservoir was empty and practically no brakes in the front. There was enough front brakes to keep the truck from idling forward, but that is it. I thought that I should have had full front brakes with a modern day master cylinder. Looks like Ford blew it with this one. Very dangerous design.
Is there an upgrade available? I never want this to happen again.
Had the ex up on a lift today as I plan on swapping out the shocks and noticed that the front bump stops are completely gone.
Could this be contributing to the harsh bumpy jarring ride I have?
I don't quite understand what they do as they just appear to be bolted to the frame and the next piece of metal they can hit seems far away from where they are positioned?
My 7.3 skips when driving, completely random, but it did skip many times in a row when driving over a bridge, moisture seem to be the culprit somehow. I have replaced CPS, UVCH, Glow Plug, Glow plug relay. I have not replaced the harness from outside the valve cover to the CPU that controls them. Its a 200.000km truck (125.000) miles, that has been well kept and seen little towing in its life. How did you fix your 7.3 from skipping? When it was not a CPS?
View 14 RepliesIt has a 5.4 v8, and won't start. It started fine when I bought it and quit a few days later. It turns on with the key, but when the key is turned to start it doesn't turn over. (Doesn't click, goes completely silent)
I can jump the positive post on the starter and the solenoid attached to the starter and it turns over and starts right up. This leads me to believe the starter itself is okay.
I replaced the fender mounted starter solenoid. Did not fix the problem. I am thinking about replacing the starter itself as they are pretty cheap and come with the solenoid attached but I don't want to just throw parts at it.
Because it worked and quit so suddenly I feel like it is a component issue and not a wiring issue. But I could be completely wrong, and that is why I am here.
I have an 03 v10 with a Powerdyne supercharger. The Ex came with an extra computer with a Superchip. The Superchip has a proper tune for the supercharger but when I install it with the extra "bad" computer the truck will completely shut down after driving ~100 miles. This is very dangerous because I lose power steering and brakes during the shutdown. The Ex starts back up after a few minutes and then shuts down more frequently until I reset the computer. I speculate that something is going wrong after the "bad" computer has learned the driving habits.
The other "good" computer works great and does not ever shut off the motor, but at full throttle the Ex will bog and I am losing HP produced by the SC. I don't think it has the optimal tune because my wideband AFR reads lean right before it bogs and I think it is bogging to protect the motor from a lean condition. I would like to install the chip into the "good" computer that never shuts the truck down to get the benefit of the proper tune, but I don't want to risk damaging it or experiencing the dreaded shutdown. A few questions :
- Why the truck shuts down while under power?
- Any reason to think that the chip will cause the "good" computer to shut down while driving?
- Could the chip be causing the shutdown, not the actual "bad" computer itself?
- Would the best option be to send the chip to 5star tunes and have them program a tuner with the superchip tune...and a few others?
- Any way to flash the "good" computer with the superchip tune?
I tried oiling the hinge and installing a new wiper but it seems like the spring isn't strong enough.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1995 ranger four letre 5sp, dubbed Beula. I figured there'd be a few gremlins and there was and is, which I know to be more common than not in older trucks. The top priority is figuring out why when I push the lever for the high beams forward, the headlights cut out completely, whether in gear or not, and I don't know where to begin troubleshooting. I've surfed around the forums looking for answers and really only found conjecture.
View 14 RepliesI replaced the blower motor resistor on a 2010 F150 with dual climate control where the blower was stuck on high.
After replacing the resistor, now the lower speeds work fine, but when placed on high speed, the fan completely shuts down. Replace with the old resistor, and it only runs on high.
How to proceed, or what else might be the problem?
I have a 2001 ford f150 with a 4.6 liter v8, my ac compressor is completely seized up, I can't afford to replace the ac right now. So I would like to just get a shorter serpentine belt to bypass the ac for now, need to get a measurement on the shorter belt for my engine? and the proper way to re route the belt without the ac?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 E350. The front HVAC completely stopped working, but still getting good air flow from all rear vents. Checked fuses, but not sure where to go next. Not sure if it could be the blower if rear vents still work. Have read that a vacuum leak would cause it to default to the defrost setting, but that isn't working either.
View 5 RepliesOn my 01' the bottoms of the bump stops are completely gone. Rusted out to the point to where the rubber stop on the front lower control arm (if the truck bottomed-out) would go right thought it. The rubber stops are fine.
This pic was taken from below the control arm looking up. You see the rubber bumper and just above it is the stop (some what triangular shaped). the bottom is rotted away... Are these replaceable or repairable? They seem like they are welded to the frame.
I have a 01 SF 2.4 4cyl. I just returned from a road trip in which my engine light came on. The codes read for mixture too rich and bad MAF sensor. I took it into the shop and has a new MAF sensor installed, full tune up and oil change. I picked it up yesterday. After just 16 miles the engine light came on again, this time reading mixture too lean. Now, at 35 miles since servicing, while trying to drive home, it would rev up and down, then completely stalled, and now it will start, but not stay running. It made a 4000 mile trip even with a bad MAF and rich codes, but now can't even make it 40 miles.
View 6 RepliesWe swapped transmissions in 01 elantras.. We installed a new clutch kit . When we go to start the clutch won't completely disengage, it only pulls it some, not enough. We replaced Tran fluid and bled it. We swapped out the throw out bearing arm and at first it worked now it doesn't..
View 3 RepliesI've looked all over online about this and spent hours tinkering with it but I can't seem to figure it out. I have an '01 gti glx with the lcd climatronic. fully functional but none of the backlights work for the buttons or the screen and I'm wondering what at all it could be... Not a hugely pressing issue, just annoying trying to figure out which button is which at night..
View 1 RepliesToday I'm installing a UHF/VHF radio in the X and after I got the cable run through the firewall I started looking for either a) the best route to the battery or b) a junction box the PO put in of which I have many.
So as I'm poking around on the drivers side of the engine compartment I find a large bore wire that terminates into a junction block with 'caution, high voltage' printed on the cover. This is right under the area where all the other junction blocks, relays and alarm from the PO are. Unfortunately the PO used wire who's gauge is to small for my current needs.
The block in question is shown in the following photos. It can easily be seen just left of the 86 written on the side of the relay. You can see a bit of red positive cable going into the black box below the relays. My question is if this is an OEM box or something aftermarket.
Zoomed in: Large gauge wire with red entering the box
Zoomed out for reference
I have the Retro-Solution Digital kit on my 2005. While the low beams look great, the high beams are not much brighter...Is this a standard problem with the after market HID's? I need a much brighter high beam !
View 4 RepliesMy 2002 Prius died the other day. Getting DTC P3125 when I ran it through my scanner, but I don't have an advanced enough one to get the sub-codes. It's got 215,000 Miles on it, so I would expect something major to be happening at this point.
Here's a detailed description of what happened --- I was driving down the freeway the other day and started noticing my car was sputtering a little bit and losing a slight amount of power. I pulled over to a restaurant to say hi to a friend; when I came back out I started the car and the check engine and battery lights came on. About 10 more miles down the freeway the car started heavily limping and barely was able to get me off the freeway, then the car completely died. When I would start it back up it would die in about 5 to 10 seconds. The 12v auxiliary battery, not the main hybrid battery, had completely died.
I figured it might have been just a dead old battery that needed replacement so I put in another new one. It ran amazingly for about five minutes around the parking lot, then the same thing happened again. It completely died just like before.
The 12v battery isn't getting re-supplied with the juice it needs. Something's wrong in there.
The either the inverter is shot, it's just overheating due to a faulty coolant pump, or the MG2 generator isn't putting juice back into the 12v system.
I checked the fluid reservoir. It looks like it's flowing, but there is a few bubbles floating to the top of the fluid. Is that normal?
I purchased a 2000 4X4 V10 with 63,000 miles. It sat with very little movement for 12 years or so. I have been driving it for a few months and it now has 73,000 on it.
To my question. I have an high idle after start up. After the engine starts the idle goes up to 2K but comes back down to normal(1K or so). It takes a second or to 2 for the idle to drop. This seems strange to me. Is this normal? I've done some searching and found plenty on high idles but none seem to fit this condition.
Well my blower motor only blows on high which IMO points to the resistor, went and bought one and still only blows on high. Tried to test the plug that goes to the resistor but couldn't get anything, shouldn't there be 12v going to the plug and then step down to the resistor until high is selected then 12v bypasses the resistor all together? Blows strong and cold, too cold actually since we cant turn the blower down so we have to turn it off for a few minutes.
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