Ford Excursion :: 2001 4x4 - Warn Hubs Will Not Engage?
Mar 28, 2015
I bought a 2001 Excursion Ltd 4 years ago. A previous owner put Warn Premium hubs on it, which I would have eventually done myself.
I got stuck a couple of weeks ago and tried to use my 4wd. Nothing.
A friend suggested I replace the Transfer Case Motor as it can go out if you don't use it. I got that done today but I still don't have 4wd.
I can hear the transfer case shift and see the drive shaft spinning, but the front tires don't spin.
I thought it was the PVH solenoid, but discovered the Warn locking hubs don't use the vacuum and it has been disconnected/plugged.
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I have a 01 f250 v10 4x4 ... My stock hubs squeak non stop when they are engaged. I want to get a set of warns.
I am going down to napa tomorrow, looking for a detailed link, or instructions of how to install these things? i have searched but just keep coming up with people raving about how great warn hubs are!
Do I need any special tools, do I need to grease the new ones before installing?
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And the vacuum pump was replaced.
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My Excursion is having an issue with the 4x4 system. The. 4x4 selector switch on dash lights up properly for 4x4, but the auto hubs don't actually engage. The hubs will lock only if I manually lock the hubs. I can hear relay click, so I don't think its electrical. The hubs had new o rings installed when I did front ball joints a few thousand miles ago, and the 4x4 worked fine up until today.
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I'm running out of light and I need to find the Warn Hub installation thread.
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The Transfer case motor works fine changing from 2H to 4H and back to 2H. Verified the drive shaft is locked in 4wd. Drive shaft is free when switching back to 2H. Hubs work fine and no problems on the vacuum side. Garage is 50+ degrees.
Very occasionally I can get into 4 Lo. (Neutral - complete stop - brake pedal depressed). My main question is could the Transfer case motor be bad if it works in and out of 4H with no problem? I have not seen any answer to this question from my searching. Also, could the dash switch be going? Last summer this started and now seems to be getting worse. This weekend I could only get into 4L one time. Where to start checking (motor on transfer case or dash switch or other)?
I have tried rolling slowly, backing up etc... Problem is I can easily hear the motor work when going to 4H and going to 4Lo (when it is working) most times when it is switched to 4Lo, there is complete silence like there is no power to the motor at all. Tapping the motor does not work. I pulled the electrical connectors off the motor and all pins on both plugs look clean and new.
Thought to first check the dash switch but not sure how to check it. The motor could be also a problem? Is there a way to remove the motor and check it?
I want to get this fixed by the spring since I use 4Lo every weekend when launching the boat. (Never has been deep enough in the water to get close to the Transfer case)..
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2004 fx4, transfer case engages, but front wheels won't engage. I assume the vacuum solenoid is stuck, any other thoughts?
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Monday I started my truck after leaving it in the garage while on a 8 day vacation. Shifting into reverse led to almost no movement at all. After a few seconds, I shifted back into park and then reverse again and got a solid reverse right away. I may have noticed sluggish shifting into reverse previously, but not this noticeable. What could be the culprit?
2001 Excursion 7.3 4x4 .....
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I have a 2005 F150 113,000 FX4. When I put the truck into 4x4 high the light comes on and the front driveshaft engages. Same with 4x4 low. the problem is that the hubs never actually lock. When I move forward in some mud or wet grass the right front hub makes this grinding noise like it is actually trying to engage but never does. Same with 4x4 low. I do not have any weird noises when I drive in 2wd.
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I am considering buying a 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty XLT 4x4 V10 engine tomorrow. I am hesitant because I cant get the 4x4 to engage. It goes into 4x4 low and high and the front driveshaft spins but it wont engage the wheels. One side locking hub locks but the other side the locking hub is cracked off and so I there is no way to turn to lock that side. I will of course replace the Locking Hub ASAP if I buy the rig but my question here is, if one side is locked should one side of the front axle spin, meaning if only one side Locking Hub is locked should that wheel turn and the other not? Both are not turning but as I said the driveshaft is spinning.
I don't know if both sides need to be locked in order for the front wheels to engage while in 4x4 high or low. Or if one side should engage if only one side is locked; the wheel that's locked of course..
2001 Ford F250 XLT Super Duty 4x4
V10 engine...
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I was using 4x4 High the other day and it was working just fine. Now today, I was at my first parking lot to plow and used the ESOF to shift into 4x4 High and it did not engage with the hubs being in auto mode. The lights on the dash show up indicating that I am, but I am still in 2wd.
If I manually lock the hubs, it engages 4wd high. I tried the same thing using the ESOF to switch over to 4x4 low and it does NOT engage either.
I also noticed that heater blower was switching over to full defrost even though I had it set on the floor setting (manual heat climate *****).
Does this sound like a vacuum leak? I haven't had a chance to test the lines yet. Btw, this is my second work truck and not the one listed in my signature below. It's a 2006 f-350 6.0 xlt.
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About a month ago I bought a 2004 F-250 160xxx from a reputable Ford dealer here in town. The dealer performed a safety and emissions inspection, and spent about a grand on other repairs, as a condition of my purchase. Today I had it in the shop for an instrument cluster issue (at a different Ford dealer, closer to my house), and was told the vacuum lines were all messed up. Their write up is below:
"Check 4x4 operation. Transfer case shifts to 4x4 and 4x4 low. Front hubs do not engage automatically. Check vacuum at the hubs. No vacuum. Check the vacuum at the solenoid. No vacuum. Perform visual of the engine vacuum lines. There is no vacuum to the reservoir. Vacuum line is routed wrong from the fuel pressure regulator to the vapor management valve. There is other vacuum concerns. All of the vacuum line routing needs to be inspected and corrected."
The service rep told me it is questionable whether the 4x4 ever worked, although during the few weeks I've owned it, I could hear gears or other mechanical parts making noise which seemed to me to be in response to me turning the 4x4 electronic switch. She also said there was a vacuum line dangling loose with a screw in the end of it.
Before I contact the dealer where I bought the truck, I am planning my going-in position. But I wanted to get a sense of a) how serious of a problem this might be? and b) how reasonable it is that the dealer didn't catch this issue before I bought the truck while they were in their fixing other things?
The dealer who sold me the truck made it very clear that the sale was as-is, and I took it to my mechanic prior to purchase, though unfortunately he only had time for a cursory look at the engine. Obviously he didn't look closely enough to find this issue.
I'm not sure if I should ask the dealer who sold it to me to fix it, or ask them to allow me to return it, or sell it back to them, or if I should eat the cost of fixing it. How wrong would it be to try to trade it in for something else?
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I recently purchased a 2003 F350 FX4 Dually with the 7.3L Diesel. It has locking hubs and electric shift in the cab.
I have had locking hubs before that you had to engage to shift into 4 wheel drive and I have had trucks without locking hubs.
My truck didn't come with a manual, so I am looking for instructions for the proper use of this system.
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My Gen I Prius is screeching at me with the BRAKE and ABS lights on, and I hear the electrically actuated pump pulsing as it tries to get pressure into the system. The pedal is spongy and will go all the way down, with the right amount of exerted pressure from my foot.
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Have a 1995 F150 with 83k with manual locking hubs. Haven't used them in almost a year. Today turned them to LOCK, normally very stiff, but this time easily turned with two fingers. Front wheels would not engage. Local mechanic put it on a lift, manually switched each hub from LOCK to FREE several times and they work fine now.
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Trying to get my original auto hubs to unlock. Both are stuck locked. The dials turn but they won't disengage. Installing warn premium hubs tomorrow and the instructions say to unlock the hubs first. How can I do this if you can't unlock them?
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Okay, pulled them and checked it all out.. Looks fine, disassembled the hubs and cleaned then greased went to reassemble them on the truck and they will not slide into the hub!?! What's the deal, is there a special trick to this?
It's a simple procedure, but it seems that the center shaft on the axle and the outer splined hub are not centered. thus binding, but why. It came out without a fight. I also have jacked up the front and wiggled it.
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A relative's '04 EX Limited is having an odd problem. He put it in "4x4 Low" to back a trailer into a barn and after the task was complete the transfer case wouldn't shift out of low range. He tried multiple times and after about 5 minutes of fiddling around with it, it shifted into 4-Hi but wouldn't go back to 2-Hi. The hubs are in the "auto" position and will not manually unlock (the selector turns). 4x4 indicator on dash is not lit. Could the dash switch be bad? Why would the transfer case and hubs act up at the same time?
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After a lot of reading and troubleshooting, I have come to know that it takes vacuum to engage and vacuum to disengage the automatic locking hubs on the Ford F series and Excursion. Most indications is that ~ 15" hg is required to engage and approximately half that much to disengage them. The mechanism that either engages or disengages them acts similarly to a ball point pen. The full amount of vacuum causes the mechanism to travel to it's limit, where the hub is engaged, whereas half the amount of vacuum applied only causes the mechanism to travel to its midpoint, which is where is should be for disengagement.
In my case, I have tested for vacuum leaks, none are present. I have installed new Ford OEM hub assemblies, a new locking hub solenoid and have tested the function of my vacuum pump. It draws about 13.5" hg of vacuum on the system. I do not have any issues with HVAC controls in the cabin of the truck. When installing the new hubs, I ensured that they are unlocked, the inner spline assy spins freely and once installed, the wheel shaft spins freely by hand. When I shift to 4WD on the dash, the hubs engage and all is well.
Problem I am having is when I shift back to 2WD, the hubs remain locked. I can tell as the wheel shafts are not able to be spun freely by hand. I have tried backing the vehicle, etc. No luck. Furthermore, when monitoring vacuum while engaging and disengaging 4WD, I can see that the full vacuum (~13,5") is applied when engaging. What concerns me is that only 3.5 - 4.0" hg is applied when disengaging. This is certainly not enough to operate the mechanism to the point of disengaging the hubs.
I have considered replacing the vacuum pump as I am only getting 13.5" hg of vacuum, however, when I research the replacement part, many have indicated that a new one only draws about that much, so I do not see the value in replacement.
Have any of you dealt with the same or similar problem and if so, what was your resolution?
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So I will be replacing the manual hubs on my Ford 2002 Excursion 7.3 diesel 4x4 with the WARN 38826. Just a few questions. Will I need to use the small snap ring? Also, do I have to worry about blocking the vacuum lines going to each stock hub? Any videos or step by step instructions with pictures for my truck.
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It has done this to me several times--both sides. Still learning about these auto lock hubs--though I did get them to "auto lock" now. It looks like the hub lock is not going as far down and creating depth for the retainer ring as I have seen on some youtube videos. I have taken out the hub lock and cleaned the outside of it before and cleaned its seating area but I have not disassembled and cleaned the hub locks themselves--had this about 4 months.
Last night, I had the right front tire off checking brakes. When I go to put the tire on--heavy mothers--I had it hanging on the outer part of the hub lock (installed of course). We're talking seconds here. I pick the tire up to put it on the lugs and the inside of the rim hits against the retainer clip area and it pops out. Why these frigging things keep popping off or hub not seating fully? Is there a reason these have el cheapo dryer vent clips instead of screws or something else?
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