Ford Excursion :: 2001 2WD Won't Start / Key Spins In Cylinder
Oct 9, 2014
I have an 01 2wd with 6.8L, 149K and had her for about 3 years now. Today I went out to leave work, inserted key and went to turn it on. As I reached the say 3/4 position all the dash lights came on as usual and then I heard a small "click" sound as I finished turning the key, then is just went loose. The key now has no resistance. it just sort of "free spins". not all of the way around or anything. She did not start and the dash lights are still on. Had to disconnect the battery to get dash lights off.
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So on Christmas day I turned on my truck and all was well. I had family over and we were going up to my range to do some Christmas day target shooting. I let it warm up for about 20 minutes we then loaded up and headed out.
When I locked the hubs I soon found out my 4WD was not working? Due to the cold? It worked fine last time out and now not at all. I decided to forge ahead in 2WD, Sure enough we got stuck in deep snow. I had to gun the engine off and on to get out and as soon as I broke free (CHECK ENGINE) appeared for the first time ever. Worst Christmas ever!
The truck is running fine, full power and no irregular noise from the engine. So I ran the test and P0303, P0307 misfires on cylinder 3 and 7 appeared. This whole post is about me doing a full tune up this spring the truck is parked since Christmas and will stay parked until I do a full tune up.
New Plugs.
New Wires.
New Coils.
New oil filter and oil. Changed last year with less than 2000 miles but changing anyways.
Flush radiator and add new radiator fluid.
Clean air filter (Aftermarket, It is washable).
Is there anything I'm missing? Also, any tips on figuring out the 4WD issue?
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2001 EX 4WD 6.8l ... Just finished an engine rebuild and have a single DTC showing that I am having a problem isolating. In short: P1299 Cylinder Head Overtemp Protection Active. I have new sensors all around however. I have run a separate ground to the intake manifold to rule out bad ground. I have cleaned all ground connections otherwise. After clearing codes and start from cold, the issue does not occur until the engine warms up. I was seeing temps over 250 F on my scantool.
I pulled the thermostat and ran from cold... took a lot longer, but the condition eventually occurred. Scantool shows temp of 255.2 when protection kicked in. However, the engine, radiator, intake manifold all just slightly warm to the touch, barely no heat coming through the HVAC system. So, I do believe I had a new bad thermostat in the mix, but why do I still throw a code for the high temp. Temp gauge sits at Cold the whole time. Here's the catch, if I disconnect only the air coolant temp sensor, the problem does not occur, the engine runs like a kitten.
Key On, Engine off, the coolant temp gauge goes right to Hot and stays there. When the problem first started, the coolant temp gauge started going back and forth between Cold and Hot repeatedly. I have replaced that particular sensor twice to rule out a new bad sensor. Key on, engine off; with new sensor reads 185 ECT temp. Original sensor read 318, first replacement read 257. This third sensor is the only one that actually registers changing temperatures.
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Here's a little more info on the truck I'll be working on:
-2001 Ford F-150 XLT Supercrew Cab 5.4L Triton.
-Has been used as a work truck so it has some miles on it 200,000+ and it shows. He showed me the lower control arm and the upper control arms bushings are a worn. Some coming apart and others with cracks in the (the bushings).
-So might need some more things replace but need to learn more about the truck to figure out exactly what?
Anyway, I'm probably just scratching the surface of the work needing to be done on this truck but for now I'll focus on the more important issues since without a functioning steering wheel he cant drive the beast. Might end up doing some customizing to the truck in the future such as changing the headlights to give the truck a more meaner look, along with the grill.
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176,000 miles. Replaced heads and oil cooler approx 25,000 miles ago. Haven't had a lick of engine problems until today. Just got my '06 out of the shop getting new brakes and rear wheel bearings today. Drove to the store to grab something for dinner and it wouldn't start.
Checked my scangauge and only getting 350lbs HPO.
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Santa Fe 2013. I bought it a few months ago and soon after a strange issue appeared from time to time. When I push the start/stop button it spins the engine but it wont start no matter how much I wait. Usually it start fine for the second time. This happens sometimes and sometimes not. About 2 months ago it didn't want to start for about 5-10 minutes no matter what I tried (push the button with the tip of the key), so I decided to go to a service station.
There they connected the car to a computer to check if there were any error codes logged. But they haven't find anything, after the second time I visited the station they replaced the battery in the key, told that maybe that was the problem.
I really don't know much about cars but it was a strange idea as I would expect the same behaviour when the battery is low than when the key is not present: Car not doing anything but displaying a message that the key is not present.
Anyway, it kinda worked, or I was lucky. For more than a month everything was fine, not a single issue. And today morning it started again. I brought my car to a hand washing, and after they cleaned the outside with steam they wanted to park the car inside the building to clean the interior, and the same issue occurred. And after that it happened with me as well several times this day.
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-15 degrees at 7:30 this morning and my F-150 4.6L started just fine. At 9:30 and -6 engine would turn over well but wouldn't start. When I shut the key off, I would hear a "vibration" from the area of the instrument panel and the speedometer needle would shake for about 15 seconds then quit. At 1:30 the truck started fine but the trip odometer had rest to 0.0. What happened and where to start looking?
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2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a hard steering problem. I've changed the power steering pump, high pressure hose and gearbox.... the fan spins slow and it still steers hard ... could this be a hydrolic fan problem ???
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'99 Yukon. Starter spins engine fine but engine won't start. Spray a quick shot of starter fluid or drip some gas on the air filter and it starts fine. After sitting idle for a half hour or so the situation returns. Car will run highway speeds (70-80mph) fine and will handle stop and go in town. Local mechanic wants to replace the fuel pump, which was replaced a couple of years (30,000 miles) ago. This seems an expensive first step with no diagnostics done.
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Got a problem that has left me in circles. 85 BMW 325e, manual. Won't start. Previously had some driveability problems, sporadic brief stalling. Using the key in ignition switch, starter spins the engine with no hint of a start.
1. IGN components all test to spec and during start attempt there is spark on all cylinders.
2. Fuel flow and pressure is within spec, both when FP relay is jumped and during start attempt.
3. Speed and reference sensors test good.
4. All inputs to dme have been tested, including power and grounds, and are good.
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I have an 01 Excursion. I tried to start it this morning and the radio and lights came on, but all it would do is make a really loud clicking noise. If the battery was dead would the lights come on? My friend who picked me up to take me to work also told me my battery connections needed cleaned...
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2001 Ex V-10 4x4. Ran like a top yesterday. Turns over fine but not even a sputter today. Plenty of fuel & battery. Has spark. Tried starting fluid, but nothing. No codes. Checked fuses and relays in dash & under hood. Fast forward an hour...
Went out and tried it again - fired up like nothing ever happened. Plowed snow for the better part of an hour, - ran like a champ again, smooth, no missing or stutters - parked it and shut it off. Tried to start it again within a minute or so and it would start, run rough & die. Tried a few more times with same results. Now it cranks fine but no start, no sputter. Gonna try a fuel filter tomorrow.
If it were the fuel pump, wouldn't it throw a code?
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Truck runs great if I get it started. Here are symptoms.
-Extremely hard to start when engine is cold
- It will start fairly quick if plugged in all night
- After running there is no issues with starting unless sits over night
- Batteries good and engine cranks fast
- Tests and parts I have replaced
- Replaced GPM (Glow Plug Module) I do not have the relay as most seem to have on their engines. I did replace this unit.
- Replaced Glow plugs all 8 this morning. Since they where cheap enough it did not hurt the wallet.
- Replaced crank position sensor. Tach moves when engine is cranking.
- Checked the HPOR and it has oil about 1/2" from top.
Now what is left to check besides doing a buzz test to rule out injectors? Also if truck runs fine and does not run rough could injectors still be bad?
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2001 6.8 Ex wouldn't start again today Get a loud click but starter doesn't turn over. Yesterday jumped it, took it to Advance where they checked battery and alternator; both checked out great. To start it this morning I ran my negative jumper from battery to engine block and it fired up It's about 12 degrees out and was same yesterday. Thinking dirty/bad ground somewhere ? Do I just start following the negative cable everywhere it goes or am I missing something here No garage and it is chilly.
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I am a new and very happy 7.3 owner. i have lurking around these forums and decided I didn't want to be a creeper anymore. So onto the fun stuff.
Yesterday my wife was exiting a freeway and the Ex shut off while exiting. once she came to a complete stop she tried turning it on and it would start then immediately shut off. she was able to turn it on and it would run then shut off as she drove across the intersection. once she made it across a good samaritan offered to park it for her. She noticed a little bit of black smoke but she told me that the guy was revving it to keep it running.
Luckily there was family at the mall and she waited for the flat bed to arrive. it sat for about 2 hours and they tried starting it and it would start then die. no more black smoke though. we had it towed to a diesel repair shop and they went to start it today and alas it started right up. they let it idle for 30 minutes and it was good. they test drove it and all good. they ran the codes and got the following:
P1876
B1352
B1483
U1147
One thing I did notice a couple of weeks ago, while driving on the freeway cruising about 65, the Ex surged a little and then ran fine. then another time it surged a little while idling. Some more info on the rig. it has a banks six gun tuner and has a cold air intake and exhaust. And it has a Banks Big Head wastegate. I bought the rig 2 months ago and changed all the filters and fluids.
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I have a 2001 Excursion 7.3 Diesel that is having a starting issue. Have replaced the batteries, has new glow plugs, common failing cam position sensor replaced once already. It runs great when it starts, no codes. It will crank, but not turn over at random times. Will do this for 3 or 4 tries...charge the batteries, go back later to start and it will on the second try. Turn it off, try again..and back to cranking, but not starting. Not fun having to worry about being stranded somewhere. Absolutely desperate at this point.
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I have a 01 Ford excursion 7.3 auto and it will not start unless you jump the starter relay, I have replaced the starter, starter relay and swapped out batteries from my 2000 F250 auto, not sure what to do and this is my daily driver. Not sure if this matters but just had the transmission rebuilt. I have tried searching other threads but still not finding what I need. Once it starts it runs and drives. When you turn the key you hear a click like a relay is engaging and all of the lights and gauges work it just won't start with the key.
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I recently purchased a 2005 Ex 6.8L V10 and I have been struggling to figure out the Cylinder 4 Misfire for close to 3 months. First thing I did was replace all 10 spark plugs with Motocraft plugs. Check engine stayed away for a few weeks... then came back. I next replaced just the #4 coli with a DG508 Motocraft coli I picked up at O'Reilly's. Again the check engine light stayed away for a few weeks.
Finally, I cleaned out #1-4 fuel injectors and swapped positions of #1 and #4. This time the check engine light stayed away for over a month. However, it just came back today, and again, it is #4. I am now at a loss for what to do. I assume it is not the fuel injector since I swapped the #1 and #4 injectors. If I have new plugs and a new coil pack, then what am i missing?
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So on Thursday night I replaced all of the plugs and boots on my 01 v10. I used Autolite 103's and Autolite boots. On Saturday the truck threw a code for cylinder 8. I bought a bag of 8 used coils off a buddy who has a mustang buy a few months ago so I put one on, cleared the code and the miss went away. On the way home tonight the truck started missing hard, but no CEL. I use torque, so i did a scan anyway and it pulled a code for cylinder 7. I haven't been out to troubleshoot yet. Could I have done something wrong for 2 coils to go in such a short amount of time? I followed the write up in the tech folder. Used proper torque specs, dielectric grease, and anti-seize on everything.
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I recently bought a 2002 Excursion limited v10. It's got a couple of issue, mostly small stuff. The biggest is that it recently developed a pretty bad misfire. The code I'm getting is p0359 which is for the coil on cylinder 9. So I changed that and I'm still getting the same code. I took it to the shop and they're saying that they are not getting a signal on the wiring harness for cylinder 9 and they think that it needs a computer. They want to check all the wiring first to eliminate the possibility of a short or bad connection. My question is, if the coil somehow shorts out against the block, can that burn out the computer?
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So when I bought the car, it had a check engine light. I had it checked it said cylinder 5 misfire. I assumed it was the glow plug so I bought it and replaced the glow plugs myself. Check engine light went away for about a day then came back on. Got it checked again and still said cylinder 5 misfire. This is my first diesel and I'm clueless as to what's wrong.
2001 7.3 Limited with 232k miles Bergen County NJ.
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