Ford Excursion :: 2000 Will Not Roll Backwards - Some Hesitation To Engage Each Gear?
Mar 30, 2015
I have a 2000 Excursion 7.3 4x4 with 237k miles on the original 4R100. Yesterday afternoon I went to back out of a parking space and the truck wouldn't move. When I put it in R, the transmission will engage and upon pressing the gas pedal it acts like it wants to move but will not budge. It rolls forward with no issue or noise. It will not roll backwards at all - not in neutral and not in reverse. The transmission shifts fine but with some hesitation to engage each gear. I have noticed some slippage but nothing crazy.
I 1st thought something might be wrong with the rear end but after some research I think it might be the transmission.
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I have a 2013 RX 350 AWD and I'm wondering if it is equipped with hill assist. If so, how does it work?. On my other ride (Q50), the car won't roll backwards on a hill if I let go of the brake.
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I have a 2000 excursion v10 with 66k miles on it. This past weekend i went to engage my 4wd and it would not work. the light on the dash is on and i think i heard a click but no luck. A buddy told me to tap the transfer case motor with a hammer but am a little skeptical. another friend told me to check the vacuum switch with the vent/ defroster but i am not sure that holds true with my yr/model (i did a test where i left the vent setting on face/feet then turned on the 4wd. the airflow seemed to remain as set). About a year ago i removed, regreased and repacked my front hubs.
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I recently picked up a 2000 Excursion with the 5.4 V8. Engine has 150,000. I got it cheap because it has a surging problem over 1500 RPM. This problem is intermittent.
I have 1 DTC. P1000 which is OBDII checks not complete. I cannot clear this even using the factory procedures. FYI..I have a snap on solus scanner. I think this is a voltage problem, If you try to start the engine with the scanner plugged in, the scanner shuts off, so I'm thinking the PCM loses battery power supply when the starter engages, resetting the PCM.
This problem is NOT a miss.... something isn't opening or shutting off above 1500 RPM. This truck doesn't have an EGR system, it has the EVAP system. This may be the problem, thats why I'm here. OK. heres a list of what I've replaced since I started working on it.
Engine oil and filter
air filter
fuel filter
8 COP's
8 plugs gapped properly
cam position sensor
IAC sensor
MAF sensor
Removed throttle body and cleaned.
Vacuum checks. 22" at purge valve,fuel dia, and vacuum canister
Checking with the scanner at 1500 RPM with problem
SFtrim1% bounces between5-15
SFtrim2% bounces between2-0
LFtrim1% bounces between11-13
LFtrim2% bounces between 5-6
O2S11(mv) bounces between 200-781
O2S21(mv) bounces between 200-800
Ssystem is in closed loop holding throttle at 1500 RPM... Note engine surges when at the RPM or above. I'm thinking the engine is lean, not sure how to read the trim numbers...
Idle is fine ... Problem is intermittent ... Also noticed that engine will only advance spark to 30 degrees @2000 RPM during this problem. I have seen it advance to 38-40 degrees when I do not have this problem, so I kind of understand the power loss,knock etc due to the timing, my question is whats causing it to do this?
EVAP question.... The purge valve should open according to PCM command a certain value, correct? I can monitor the duty cycle % but cannot activate and check proper duty cycle through scanner . When I try to I get an error message of module error -unspecified.
Disconnected hoses at purge valve,Full manifold vacumn on one, nothing on other, no flow through purge valve, but scanner shows 30% duty cycle. I would think the should be a little flow at 30% Maybe my problem? Troubleshoot procedure for the EVAP would be good.
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I drive a 2000 Ex V10. My truck has been having an issue at idle after it warms up, almost every time after it sits and cools down.
My problem is that once the truck warms up, it will drop down to 500 rpm's and will have a hesitation/miss/lope for about 20 seconds. When it does this I can hear the exhaust making a sputtering sound. On two occasions during windy rain it would hesitate while driving but then straighten up within a half mile or so and be fine. I have changed all the boots, cop's and plugs and don't think that is where my problem is.
What I can't figure is why it seems to hesitate/lope once it warms up! This problem not related to a failing boot, plug or cop?
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My reverse lights and back up alarm will not engage unless i hold up on the shifter while in reverse the only thing i found was a adjuster for the indicator....
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I noticed difference in smoothness of gas pedal recently, I have an sct x4 tuner and it shows the short term fuel is 1.25% on idle. Does it mean rich or lean?! And what is the solution for this symptoms!
2000 5.4l xlt
Note : cold start runs fine, goes hesitant when warm, furthermore I have changed the temp. Sensor....without any difference.
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Took my 2007 Honda Pilot in on Thursday for an oil change and trip inspection to a very reputable mechanic that specializes in Japanese cars. He said he found a small amount of leakage on the rear cover of the transmission (it is a two wheel drive) so he removed the cover, resealed, and refilled the fluid. The evening after I picked it up, as I was driving up a hill, the car started rolling backwards and no gears would engage. Had it towed back to my house.
No fluid in the reservoir and the dipstick smells burnt. Obvious trans fluid on the underside of car. Is the transmission fried? Does he owe me a new transmission? No trans problems in it's history. It has been a great car and I am anal about the maintenance. I have all records since new. Should I have it towed back to him on Monday morning or towed to a dealer? The car has 89,000 mostly highway miles on it.
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I have a M5OD that I replaced the clutch in in my '99 150 4wd in December . Manual Tranny. Now when taking off in 1st gear the transmission seems to be sliding or shifting backwards, but only in first gear. Got under my truck and looked, can't find any identifying marks to where it might be moving or what is causing this. All frame mounts are tight and the bell housing is flush with the motor. Yes, i did do the clutch change myself in shop class.
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2001 Accent 1.5 GL 165K miles.
The clutch doesn't engage until it's on the floor. I have to push real hard to allow the gear to engage. It then shifts... sometimes smoothly, sometimes it takes a hard push of the gear shifter, or it grinds until getting into gear.
I've changed the master cylinder twice in about 3 years but those times the pedal had no spring and just fell to the floor and stayed. Now, the pedal has spring (I push it to the floor and it springs back) so I assume the MC is ok. I even bled it with fresh fluid.
I'm not sure if the tranny fluid has ever been changed. Would changing the fluid fix this problem or does it sound like I need a new clutch? I'm guessing it needs a new clutch (or corresponding parts) since I've had two MC's go bad in a few years.
The pedal, even when it's shifting smoothly is pretty non-responsive and still engages a little mushy (comparing it to my 2012 Elantra 6sp).
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I have been getting awful gas mileage lately. I have a 2000 6.8L V10 Excursion, so I wasn't expecting much but it got bad. I know winter weather kills gas mileage but i finally noticed I do not have fifth gear. Fluid is good, clean and not burnt and all other gears hit when they need to, what this could be besides a new tranny.
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I have a 2000 v10 excursion and once in a while when I shift from park to drive it will stall and lunge forward. It will stay running if I go to neutral but as soon as it goes into drive it will stall and also reverse seems to work sooner than drive will come back I have been stalled and had to put it in reverse and pull to the shoulder.
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I have a 2000 excursion V10. It will die in gear forward or reverse the overdrive light flashes and cel shows code p0720. I have new plugs and COP on all 10 cylinders. I have replaced the differential speed sensor and the sensor on top of the transmission. I have a basic code reader it shows at the time it dies the vehicle speed is 70 mph while the speedometer shows 0. When I unhook the abs module it still has code p0720 but it does not die. I am replacing the abs module?
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I have a 2000 Excursion w/ V10 and I have an issue with the transmission form time to time. some times it does not want to shift out of first. if I pull over and turn it off for a few minutes it will be fine for a while and it doesn't do this all the time. A few nights ago it did this so I pulled over and turned it off and it still did it but then it started shifting on its own just fine till we got on the high way which is started shifting in and out of over drive going around 60-65 MPH. didn't want to go too fast not knowing what it could or would do. it did this for a few miles then it started working fine. next day it did the same thing not wanting to shift out of first then started working fine. drove it around last night and it all worked perfectly. The CEL is on but I get a no communication text from the scanner so that is another thing I need to look in to. I'm guessing it is an electrical issue being when it works it shifts fine and it does not slip at all.
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My truck has a very specific hesitation/failure to engage at 1300 rpm and 45-55 mph. I took it to a reputable national chain that specializes in transmissions thinking this should be a very specific issue that I was able to catch early. After "transmission rebuild" with new torque converter, I have the exact symptoms. How is this possible?
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My 01 excursion with a v10 6.8 liter gas engine was running rough and cutting out at 40 miles an hour climbing hills and similar situations. Had some engine codes for cylinder misfires. Changed all the spark plugs. Now it does not cut out and runs generally smoother. But something is still very wrong. At idle, you can hear it kind of shuddering.
In first and second gear it does pretty well, but when it goes to 3rd the shudder and vibration in the vehicle becomes noticeable, it can become very bad as you slowly climb to 40 miles or 50 miles an hour. If you give it gas and rev the RPMs up and go on up to 60 or 70 miles an hour, it smooths out and you would not think there was anything wrong with it.
The mechanic said we would have to wait until an engine code comes up, but I would like to understand and fix this problem if we could.
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Got in the car today and moved the gear selector into the manual shift mode. Usually there is no play forwards or backwards. Today there was about 3/8 of an inch travel forward before the spring tension started. I'm taking the car in tomorrow to have the console latch replaced but was wondering why encountered this anomaly in the shift mechanism?
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We pulled out of the parking garage going up the hill it acting like i was in neutral all of a sudden. it was running fine but i was coasting backwards. After checking the tranny fluid it was mostly gone so as my wife and kid sat in the still running car I went for fluid. I put in in and then drove up that hill went around the corner and it did it again. Then i got towed home. When its cold it works when I drive a little this happens. Its on all gears and no matter how much gas I give it there is no attempt at shifting and no weird noises.
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I have been having problems with my drivers side power window on my 06 Ford F-150. At first, it would roll down, but wouldn't roll back up, so I replaced the switch. After replacing the entire power window control switch, if you push the switch for the drivers window down, it will start to go down, then stop, and you have to press it about 20 times to get it all the way down. You can definitely hear the switch clicking off. All the other windows work perfect. I took it to get the oil changed and asked about it, and they said to change out the regulator, which I did, but the same thing happens. I checked the fuse and that was fine. Is there a relay or something I should check?
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The brakes seam to be dragging on my F550.It won't roll when out of gear. Noticed a good deal of brake dust on all 4 corners after just a couple hundred miles. Also,when it does roll I can some times hear it creak slightly. At not time does it lose any braking action nor does the brake pedal get hard or soft.I know it will need pads and rotors soon since the rotors are pretty grooved. (Just bought the truck last month....it's on my LOOOOONG to do list.....).
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With my previous cars I only had to put the car in gear and it would not roll or move. However, the first night I took my R home last week I woke up to the car which had rolled half-way down the driveway. Now I always use the e-brake.
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