Ford Excursion :: 2000 XLT V10 - Battery Light Is Coming On For A Few Seconds And Going Off
Jan 20, 2016
2000 Ford Excursion XLT 4x4 V10 ... Part store shows I need a 3G alternator ... Current alternator put on by PO in 2013/14 s a Duralast DL7764 from Autozone. Tag is still on it.
My battery light is coming on for a few seconds and going off for several hours before it comes on again. Connections are good....crappy Autozone alternators.
But for some reason my motor has a 6G alternator. All parts stores say I need a 3G. Did Ford put 6G'S in all excursions, or do I have a 2004+ motor in my 2000 Ex? Or will a 6G fit where a 3G is supposed to be? All connections look factory including electrical hook ups.
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i have a 2000 ex,6.8 4x4.every now and then the dome light stays on.theres also a problem where theres a buzzing sound coming under dash while driving and makes the dome light flicker.these are seprate problems.lol.when the buzzing sound is present ,it stops when i open the door,running or not.but starts up again when i close it,even happens occasionaly when ignition is off and no key in ignition.electrical problems are my worst night mare!!!!!!!! My battery is dead in the morning when this is happening .oh yea,and the o.d.light flashes occasionaly as well.im totally lost.
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As I'm driving along, I get the battery light coming for a few minutes then going out. Is this a sign my alternator is on the fritz?
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My battery light keeps coming on and off, batteries were replaced by the dealer and checked out good at advanced auto parts.
2002 Limited 7.3L
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I have a 2000 Ford Excursion XLT 2WD with just over 155,000 miles on it, for awhile now My battery light has been on and off or it'll flicker and some times it will even stay solid. I checked the batteries and the alternator a while ago and got good readings from them. I just thought it was a code that never got reset. Well this morning I was driving it and I noticed that when I brought the RPMs over 3,000 the battery gauge would go up to 18 volts and the battery stayed on until the RPMs went back down past 3,000. It did this all morning until I got home and just for kicks I put it in park and revved the engine up to 3,000 RPMs, when I did nothing happened. I tried looking online for an answer and I called a few mechanic shops who all said it was my alternator. I want to make sure that it is in fact the alternator....
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I have been having an intermittent (2 times in the past 2000 miles) oil pressure gauge not reading. As I own a 6.0L I understand that this is just a pressure switch in reality and if the engine was starved of oil the HPOP system would kill the engine. The first time the oil gauge went out it was raining out. The second time was after going through a carwash and getting the underbody wash. At this time my battery light also came on for a few seconds.
Both problems seemed to go away after an engine restart. Today it is snowing lightly and my battery light came on again. I happened to be monitoring the battery voltage and FICM voltage via OBD II using Torque app. At no time while the battery light was on today did the battery voltage drop below 13.5V. The FICM was also stable at 48.5+/-.5V.
As the battery voltage read by the PCM is not actually dropping and the previous oil pressure gauge and the fact that my left blinker indicator is out I am thinking I may have electrical issues with the gauge cluster. I have never had these issues while driving in dry weather. Where do I start troubleshooting this? Also I am going out of town for the next two weeks and my girlfriend was going to use the vehicle. Is it OK for her to drive?
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So I have a 2000 6.8l V10 that I recently swapped the engine on (reman). While I was doing that, I decide to do some LED upgrades. I swapped out the turn signals, side marker lights, and headlights with LEDs. I added some LED fog lights, and I have a Rigid light bar.
I replaced pretty much everything on attached to the engine aside from the alternator (it didn't give me any problems, so I figured it was good).
When the truck is running with the lights off, there are 6 LED strips running as DRLs, when the lights are switched on, the side marker, turn signal and headlights turn on. When I switch to high beams, my fogs turn on. The light bar is on its own switch.
During the day with the headlights off, I dont notice the battery/charging system indicator light turn on at all. At night, when I flip the headlights on, I've noticed that it sporadically and randomly flash. The flashing indicator light does not appear to be associated with bumps or anything.
It does not seem to matter if I have just the DRL/low beams on, DRL/high beams+fogs, or DRL/high beams+fogs + light bar on. The indicator light comes and goes with the same random consistency regardless of how much power I am sucking from the alternator/battery. The RPM's of the engine also appear to have no effect on when/how often the indicator light comes on...
I drove for over an hour last night, and the voltage gauge never changed, so the battery does not *seem* to be draining (~1 year old Optima yellow). I added an extra ground wire going from the battery to the engine about a year ago (long before this LED upgrade) to ensure a good ground, so I dont *think* the wires are the issue. Is my alternator suddenly going bad? Any higher output ones I could replace it with? Is it a simple fix that does not require a new alternator?
Here are some pics of the lights:
(This was before the fog light install)
These lights only come on when the truck is in reverse:
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Rookie move. The battery went dead on the excursion so I nabbed one out of my Focus so I could just move the beast to another parking spot. Long story short, the battery's design was exactly the same, aside from the polarity on the posts. I didn't check and now I'm not getting a response from the vehicle at all. No lights, no clicks, nothing.
I'm assuming I blew a fuse, and possibly fried the PCM. Where to start? I'm not sure which fuse I'm looking for, as none of the diagrams have a "main fuse" listed.
The details: 2000 Excursion, V10 6.8.
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My battery went dead so I replaced with new. This did not fix the problem so I replaced the alternator. It's working now but the battery light stays on. I think I still have a problem.
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I have an 02 X, and it's been giving us trouble for almost 2 years now. We've babied it along, but it is acting so crazy now. Here's the current weirdness...
Truck idles, ABS light comes on, within 15 seconds engine dies. Battery is DEAD, must have a jump to restart. Otherwise, if we catch the ABS light and Rev the engine to 2500 rpm and hold it for a few seconds until the ABS light goes out, then it is fine and does not die.
We have replaced the alternator with a stock Ford brand (whatever their brand is from the dealer) because we were told the ones from the auto part stores didn't have a strong enough or steady enough current. (This thing had already eaten 3 auto parts store brand alternators in 2 years.)
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My X keeps needing to be jumped and after being jumped it runs like a top as usual. Took it to Autozone and had them hookup their little portable doohikie and told me the battery is fine but the alternator should be pushing out 14a and it's only pushing 13? Didn't realize 1aI made that big of difference but whatever. I am taking the alternator off in a few minutes and I'm gonna have it bench tested to confirm the output.
Is there a heavier duty alt that I can get? I will be pulling an RV before too long so I'd like to get one that's gonna last. Btw, 2000 excursion limited v10 gas 6.8...
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This is concerning my little brothers truck. It is a 2008 4.2 liter with around 55,000 miles on it.
He drove it to work today, and called me this afternoon saying that the truck starts then dies a few seconds later, and the battery light illuminates. He and a coworker checked the battery and connections....cleaned off corrosion on terminals, battery reads 12.xx volts without a load on it, it is the original though.
As of right now he is changing the fuel filter which hasn't been done yet. I also know of issues with the fuel pump driver module. I remember checking the one on my 2005 back when I owned it. As I recall it causes a no start condition, but would it cause a start then stop condition like this? He will check this when he is done with the filter.
Anything else that we can check in a parking lot to try and at least get it home?
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Last week my battery light came on for the first time in years. I have a 185 amp DC Power alternator after dealing with so many bad oem ones.
Anyways, battery light came on when i pulled up to a stop sign. I proceeded to plug my sct x4 in to see what the voltage was, with the battery light it was 11.50. I shut the truck off started it back up, no light and voltage was 13.7. Went through the stop sign got into some more traffic, started to accelerate again and this is when the truck shuts off for the first time. Put it in neutral, and it started right back up.
Several days later it shut off on me two times back to back. It was a cold start, and both times the battery light was on and the truck would die within 30 seconds. Third start it kept running fine.
This past Saturday morning battery light was on, let it idle for awhile then as i tried to park it in the garage it shut off. Started it up, no light so it ran fine. Later when i started the truck it shut off again. So it has shut off on me 5 times in the last week.
Some more background on the truck:
2005, 199k miles
Well maintained (T6 every 5k, filters every 15k, etc.)
The injectors are going bad, it started running rough saturday 1/9/16, just a couple days before it started shutting off.
I used to a sct x4 to pull codes, i have p2237 (if i remember right) which is an intermittent icp signal. I replaced the pigtail and icp less than a year ago because of the same code.
And three codes for glow plug solenoid open on 5, 6, and 7.
No ipr codes
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My excursion has come out of park a few times. Not good at the boat ramp.....
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I cant replicate the sound when its in park so i did a very dangerous diagnosis having a friend stomp on the break in gear and rev the engine to exactly 2000rpm as i searched for the sound. The sound is coming from in front of the transmission. I had removed the inspection cover as per another members fix for this sound and its still there. Could it be the torque converter touching something after it flexes at that speed?.
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So I was sitting in my wife's car and hear a clunk while the car was in park sitting in the driveway. She said it had been doing that for a few weeks now. The clunk seems to happen every 4 or so seconds while idling and is coming from the engine compartment somewhere. There is also what seems to a hissing or sucking noise that sounds like it is coming from in the dash somewhere and also happens about every 4 seconds during idle. I really haven't had a chance to look into what the problem(s) may be or if they could be connected. I am really not sure what the clunking at idle could be. I think the hissing noise is a vacuum leak I could probably hunt down when I have a chance.
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I just noticed this happening the other day. Sometimes the battery light will come on for a second then go off. It seems to happen when I accelerate. I've watched the battery gauge and it never moves when the light comes on. I have a digital voltmeter that plugs into the cigarette lighter and it reads 14.2 volts constantly, even when the light is on. So what could cause the battery light to go on besides a drop in voltage?
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Came on intermittently other day, got it home then did not start. Charged for a bit, it started on the charger then off the charger a few times I assumed out was the alternator just replaced it. Battery light now on continually, hope I didn't destroy two batteries driving out for 20 mom after light first illuminated, they already to be only one year old. In addition to the ABS light now and the brakes feel unboosted? Hopefully fuses popped?
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My battery indicator light is doing weird stuff. I have a secondary volt gauge that shows good voltage throughout. Checked posts and connections tight. At idle the warning light is off. Under slow acceleration it starts to flash with the frequency increasing with greater acceleration until it finally goes solid with normal acceleration and highway speeds.
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Had this rig for 6 years, and I love it. Two weeks ago, wife was driving home and she and the kids saw smoke coming out of the dash, along with an electrical stink. Shortly after, she noticed the blinkers not working. While trying to diagnose, I have found that the radio, heated seats, headlights, rear AC, blinkers, front wipers, rear/mirror defrost do not work. On a test drive, the rig also has an odd idle, as if it is going to die, then catches up by revving... repeatedly. Sometimes throttle is unresponsive.
I started by replacing the battery. I cut back battery cables til there was no corrosion and reattached them. All fuses in the cabin and under the hood look good, and none of the relays (yes, I pulled them all) seem to have any damage, melting, etc. My battery to engine and frame grounds are good. I also tried spraying starter fluid around vacuum lines to see if that changed the idle -nope. The only code on the rig has been on for a couple months, both right and left banks lean.
I am not great at tracing down wiring, but I am starting on grounds, then will start on hots.
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Yesterday morning taking off out of my driveway I heard a ticking sound. Kinda metal on metal sounding. It sounds like middle of truck underside. Only on acceleration. It does also clunk at times or ping when I put it in gear.is this u joints? Hopefully not rear end. Its a 2000 limited ex. with the v10.
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