Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Won't Move Forward - On Acceleration Jerks - Brake Pads / Hoses?
May 17, 2013
I have an issue with something when I stop. When I apply the brakes and come to a complete stop, right when the forward motion is completely stopped the ex kind of rocks back on the shocks. When that happens the ex jerks just a little. Kind of like if the brakes were sticking to the rotor, or the shocks are sticking. Then when I start to accelerate it jerks again. How can I tell if the brake hoses are bad, calipers are bad, or if it's the caliper slide pins, or if the shocks are bad?
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I have a 2000 Excursion and it appears the AC lines going into the condenser are leaking. I had a local shop replace them, vac and recharge the system for 96.00. The ac was never really cold, and he used a vac pump and gauges to recharge. He said he thought there was enough refrig in the system for me. I got tired of just cold air so I put a small bomb in the system tonight and woah, I had ice cold air again. I noticed that where he replaced the O-rings, it appeared to be oily again! I went to a friends house and he as the glasses and UV light and we could see the dye around the connections where the hoses bolt to the condenser. We cleaned em off with brake cleaner and will recheck tomorrow afternoon. How odd is it to have the O-rings replaced and then have it leak again? I know he did not use OEM O-rings. I do not think its the condenser, we can only see the die on the fitting and around the flange of the hoses.it is easy enough to replace the condenser and it is not labor intensive. I called the shop and he said it would be about 25.00 plus a recharge but he doesn't know its leaking AGAIN. Should I go and replace the condenser as well? This image doesn't show the lightly wetness around the flanges.... but here it is.
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What should the idle be at for a 2004 f150 fx4. When I first start the stuck it jumps to about 1200 or so and then after a few seconds settles at about 500 and stays there at all stops. It seems to be smooth but when I let go of the brake, the truck doesn't really want to move forward. It is a crew cab so I know there is some weight there. If anything is wrong, what are some possible fixes.
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2000 ranger v6 automatic trans electronic 4wd shift on the dash. Plowing snow all of the sudden lost both forward and reverse never slipped or made any noise. Transmission fluid is fine to the level and clean. Put in drive nothing and reverse nothing put it back in park you can hear the park paul trying to click in. Towed it back to the shop thinking maybe the transfer case was junk. Decided to check the actuator on the transfer case no power going to it, go back to the switch no power there either check the fuses both are good and have power. The question i have is could a bad GEM module cause all this? ps the windshield wipers do work.
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I bought Akebono cermaic pads for my GS 350 AWD which I thought were high quality good fitment pads as they even advertise them on tirerack. Now I am not really impressed. After about a month every time I pull out of my garage in the morning they click and squeal (squeak).
The scenario: After I come home from work at night I pull into my driveway and park in the garage. The pads are already seated in the forward position from driveing forward and parking. Then in the morning I go and back up in reverse to pull out, I tap the brakes to stop and shift into drive to pull forward; at the moment I depress the break pedal the two front rotors simultaneously click and sometimes squeal. Sometimes when I get in my car at the transit center in front of everyone this happens.
Is there a shim kit or something I can add to the brake pads to sit in between the pads and rotors to get them to stop moving. I know that there not moving a lot but whatever play they have is causing me brake pad buyers remorse.
I went with these Akebono ceramic because they dust much less then stock semi-metallic pads. Becuase I had them on my Audi and they didnt dust nearly as much as the stock set. But once and while they too would click in this situation but nearly as much as now in my Lex.
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Before I got my GX someone posted they had to press harder on the brake to keep the vehicle from moving forward. My truck idles at 550 rpm and the vehicle will barely move forward even with NO brake. Just resting my foot on the brake will hold it easily.
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I have a 2000 Excursion 2wd 7.3 diesel. Drove it an hour yesterday and drove fine. Got home and decided to check the mail so I put it in park, left it running and got the mail. Jumped back in and put it in drive and it would not move. Tried 1 and 2 and would not move. Put it in reverse and it barely moved.
I turned the vehicle off and back on. Put it in drive and it drove fine like nothing happened. Same thing happened today. Turned it off and back on and it worked fine again. It happened a 3rd time when I stopped put it in park and back in drive but I was able to move in drive once I revved it up a bit.
As long as it is in drive like at a red light with your foot on the brake it is fine but if you put it in park and then go to drive it wont move unless you turn the vehicle off and back on. The fluid is full, red and no burnt smell. Maybe converter or ???? Is it ok to drive i this way???
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So, the power locks on my 2000 Excursion (with 205000 miles) always have electric/signal to them, and occasionally will make it go down or up (ie. lock the doors), but usually not. It seems like they are just too weak, or tired - that is, will go down/up a tiny bit. I don't even know what to ask...
Is there a fix that does not include replacing all the power lock mechanisms? Is there a way to... "oil" the mechanism?
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I'm new here and I am having issues with my Lumina. It is a 93 Chevy Lumina Euro 3.1L 6 cylinder and has 192K miles on it. It has had one owner for the past ten years that I know for a fact.
Here's what happened. I was coming back home (2hr trip) The brakes had started making that roaring sound on the way down and had gotten worse when I got ready to make the trip home. Okay so I know the brake pads needed to be changed. No big deal. Well going down the road at 65mph I round a curve and my car starts making this REALLY LOUD grinding clattering noise. It took me forever to get it stopped. I will still in the road and I needed to get it out bc it was right around a curve. So I put it in drive and it wont move. So I put it in reverse and it moves just fine with no problems and no noises made. After backing it out of the road I tried to put it in drive. It moved forward a few inches and stopped like something was binding it up.
So here's the problem.. it will move in reverse with no problems at all and only creeps a couple of inches forward then stops. The harder you press on the gas the more it tries to lurch forward but will not move.. like it's caught on something.
We changed the rear brakes on it. Discovered that the driver side rear rotor and caliper were broke beyond repair so we replaced those too. Still the same.. moves forward a lil bit and stops but will go in reverse just fine. We don't seem to think its the tranny bc it pulls hard and seems to not have any problems pulling.. but its like something is bound up somewhere. That is the best way I know how to explain this situation.
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My trailblazer will not move in reverse , and will barely move forward, i checked transmission fluid hot and it's not even on the dipstick but when it was cold. it was?? Do I add more or what?..
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So lately this has been getting worst. You have to step on the brake before you can shift out of park. Well lately I have to step on the brake a few times before the safety will let you get into gear.
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Buick Regal 2000... Could it possibly be a leaf hitting ventilation fan? Turn the fan off to test. Looking for someone who knows something about cars to listen under the hood and try to pinpoint the source.
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I really need to know. Since the X has 2 heater cores, how do the hoses run that connect the two together? Do they run in parallel, or in a series?
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09 stx 2wd 4.6L- I have a 2.5'' leveling kit and 33'' bfg a/t tires. The problem is when I make sharp turns, or turn and go over small bumps. Whats happening is something seems to catching or rubbing it kind of jerks towards the opposite of where I am turning and causes the traction control to slow my truck (sucks on tight off-ramps/ u-turns). this happens at pretty much any speed although it gets worse as speed increases. At first I thought it was the steering stoppers but don't have any wear on them, tires do not rub anywhere. My dealer and a local off road shop cant figure it out...
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It's an 04 F350 6.8L This past winter when it was cold I would start it up and it would rock forward and bounce back as is you shifted in to park while rolling. Now that it's warmed up it won't jerk forward but the whole body shakes only at start up. As much as I like the idea of of the raw torque being so powerful the truck twists with power I don't think that's the case.
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1997 ford f150 automatic 4x4 was perfectly fine till today ,no slipping no warning nothing.pulled in the driveway and about 30 minutes later had to run out.the truck tried and pulled like it wanted to go while in drive but wouldn't.then i tried it in reverse and went fine like nothing is wrong.i put it back into drive accelerated for a minute then it went for about 15 miles.while at a red light tried to go and it wouldnt move but was able to put it in reverse to back out of the lane.so i had it tow roped back home and halfway there while accelerated about 10 miles into it it caught and ran fine till i slowed down.at home i changed the tranny filter and fluid.no foul smell,the fluid looked perfect,no metal nothing in the tranny pan,i tried to put it in 2wd and 4wd to see if it would go and still did nothing.after accelerating the gas a minute it pulled and tried to move forward but nothing.
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Well, I have been through the tech folder and all over the forum reading but cant seem to come up with a good first step. When i accelerate the truck shakes, by the sound it seems that its missing a cylinder. I guess it could also be the motor mounts. Besides replacing the plugs and coils, is there something else that could remedy a misfires or dead cylinder?
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I own a Hyundai hatchback which i converted to a LPG sequential kit 6 months back. The car was running fine till a couple of weeks back. Now I experience jerking at 2nd and 3rd gear and sometimes the engine just turns off while on the move at these lower gears or if the car encounters a pothole(I then have to restart the engine ).
So far, I've changed the ignition coil(6 months back) and spark plugs(1 week back) but I still experience the problem.The Hyundai mechanic says that it could be a problem either with the wiring to the ECU( since soldering instead of couplers have been used) or with the injectors. He says the cord wires and ignition coils are just fine.
The Lovato authorized mechanic who fitted the LPG sequential kit says that it could be a problem with the spark plug cord wires or the ignition coil.
The reason I don't see a rationale with the Hyundai mechanic's argument is that the car has been running perfectly for 7 months. Initially , when the car was fitted with the LPG sequential kit, there was a slight jerking problem but was gone once I got the ignition coil replaced.
The reason I don't see a rationale with the LPG mechanic is that the ignition coil is just 6 months ( 4k kms ) old. I've been struggling with this problem for a while since each mechanic is giving his own version of the problem. I might be wrong in my rationale above.
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I bought my wife a 2010 Explorer a couple years ago, nice car but when it gets to 0 or -0 it wont move. After idling for an hour and some persuasion with the throttle it will lunge forward and then there is no issue until it is shut off and cooled down again. I'm wondering if there could be water in the tranny and its freezing but there is no way to check it.
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While driving at between 20-45 MPH in warm weather only IDEAL SPEED IS 38-42 .. At times the car jerks forward and downward like, even slowing down at red light: Seems like the whole problem is coming from transmission! (Sensors)? The car is cursed. Example:
1- The symptom seems like your driving in drive position then all of sudden it shifts to low gear
2- When driving normal then it seems like the car shifts to neutral and the RPMs shoot up to 3-4
3- Sometimes when stopped the steering wheel shakes bad.
The car runs normal in winter time? Doesn't do it everyday.
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What can cause a car to jerk forward while accelerating? Other symptoms include loss of HP and MPG. Recently had spark plugs and wires changed. Regular maintenance. I am about to see my mechanic and ask him to check the fuel pressure.
2002 Chevy Monte Carlo ss 100,000mi
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