Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Whirring Sound From Rear And Rough Running When Rainy
Jul 10, 2017
I have two issues with my 2000 6.8L gas excursion. Neither seem to be causing any harm...
1st issue - While its raining, or even just really humid, on a cold startup, my truck runs rough. it almost feels like it wants to die, but doesn't. After about a 1000 feet down the road, it runs normal.
2nd issue - I've started noticing that almost always, I here a whirring type of sound coming from the back. It is not from the brakes, as they are new and the sound is best heard at a complete stop. The sound lasts for about 3 seconds and then repeats after a few more seconds. At first I thought it was the coolant circulating through the pipes that run to the rear heater unit, since the sound sounds a lot like fluid flowing through a pipe. However, my coolant level is normal and the system is tight and I have not had to add any since the only major overhaul in January. At idle, the engine sounds like it isn't idling at a constant rpm, but more like a slight up and down in rpm, but the amount is so slight, it doesn't register on the tach. The only other thing that comes to mind is the fuel pump. Is this sound a sound of imminent failure of the fuel pump? Or is it normal? The truck otherwise runs great at any speed and pulls my boat as well as I would expect it to.
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I have a 2000 excursion 4x4 v10 with 90k. The past few months I've noticed a tug or miss fire at low RPM (2000 AN UNDER) the past week its gotten worse, some occasional rough idol and the missing is getting worse. Whats wrong?? I don't want to take it to ford yet! No Check Engine Light yet...
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So, I'm minding my own business pulling out of Starbucks with my gingerbread latte, making a nice and easy right turn when I hear "clunk" ("pop" maybe??). I hear a scraping/whirring sound on deceleration only (once I get past say 30-40 miles per hour). NOT brake related at all, occurs only when I let up on the accelerator. My baby is a 2000 Ford Taurus with 238,000 (yep, you read that right). I'm thinking transmission (and, I really want to be wrong). I've had the transmission flushed every 30,000 miles and serviced at 150,000 per Ford's maintenance schedule. I have taken very good care of my vehicle, but I do put a lot of miles on it every day as I drive 120 miles round trip to work 5 days a week.
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My 2008 Prius has started making a noticeable soft whirring sound whenever the engine is running. You can hear it both inside and outside of the car. The sound lasts exactly 30 seconds, then pauses for 4 seconds, than repeats . When the car is turned off, the sound can be heard for about another 10 minutes before it shuts off entirely.
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I have a 2009 Prius with about 56K miles on it that I absolutely love. Now I know from reading in the forums an my own experience that when the A/C compressor starts running you hear an electric whirring sound. My question is... is it a cause for concern when the sound it makes seems different -- the pitch sounds lower to me now. The A/C still works fine, but I didn't know if this changing sound means the compressor was on the way out.
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The X 6.0 was running rough at 1700 rpm and cold it barely ran at all. The dealer did full compression test - pass with no issue. Fuel pressure regulator was bad, they replaced it. They also replaced the fuel filter. That didn't work, so back to the dealer and they diagnosed that the injectors were not optimal for about half of the cylinders. The recommendation was to replace the injectors and they gave me their quote...time for some DIY.
So, I dive in; order and install Warren rebuilt stock injectors (new down tubes and dummy plugs as well). I also went ahead and replaced both oil cooler and screen as well as the EGR cooler with an aFE improved design. I also noted the Turbo was throwing oil into the intake so I replaced the turbo with the PowerMax. Additionally, I replaced the FICM with a BulletProof unit set at 53V. Heck, I went ahead and installed an XPD coolant filter system as well.
Got the X back up and running this weekend and she runs nice, smooth and with authority. So far so good.
This morning I start her up, notice that she isn't running as smoothly. I drive and now the X is not running with that real authority (not as much power but she runs) and I note that some roughness is once again apparent at 1700 RPM.
Obviously, all of this work didn't take care of the root of the problem. What else could cause this issue? Will Rev-X take care of it (I'll get some of that ASAP)? How did she run so well for a few miles and now the problem is coming back?
I have the PHP FICM programmer and am looking to install that next but I doubt that will eliminate the root problem. I don't want to get frustrated so I'm trying to approach this systematically.
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The wife was stopped at a light in her 2006 S60 and when the light changed and she accelerated the car stalled and died. It would not start and thus I had it flatbedded back to the house. Id been told at the dealer during a service trip ($$$) that the alternator might be going bad as it was making a whirring noise and was given an estimate to replace it, the serperntine, pulley, etc.. of $1300. At the time it wasnt a driveability problem and being a working stiff I didnt have the 1300 to spend so I decided against doing the work. Thus, when the car stalled I figured it would be the alternator causing the problem and draining the battery.
I recharged the battery overnight figuring I could get the car turned on then remove one of the battery terminals to verify faulty alternator. However, car would not turn over, Id only get what sounded like a click from the starter. Fine, I figured, the alt killed the battery so I went and purchased a new one and installed it. Car would still not start and Id still get the click from what I believe is the starter. Tried the old bang the starter with a hammer and still nothing. Checked the connectors to the starter and all seemed ok.
At this point, the dreaded "my wife seized the engine" thought popped in my head. I then tugged a bit on the serpentine and noticed the crank turn slightly so Im pretty sure she didnt seize the engine. (fingers still crossed on that one).
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What may cause a strange whirring sound when my R32 is on. I can be in park, sitting still..whatever...It sounds like it's coming from somewhere around the rear tires.
Whirring...humming... Honestly to me it sounds similar to an electric motor trying to do it's job but something is keeping it from doing so. Would be the best way to describe it. I just got the car a few weeks ago and the sound started last week.
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I have a strange issue that just started happening. A whirring sound comes from the vent in the back seat I believe which sounds like escaping Air. Not like the last 2 years I've owned it. At the same time I noticed that the accelerator now takes a second to engage after I hit the pedal from a stop every time. Furthermore the engine seems to be over revving, as if engine braking. I've restarted the car a few times. I've checked all the fluid levels.
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So I bought an 04 3 months ago everything seemed good all deltas were good had a small leak nothing serious. I had the egr deleted then i did the mistake of flooring it 1 morning at top end and the mech is telling me threw a valve. The truck was stumbling and running ruff with white smoke. looks like cycl. 7 took a hit and shows 10 psi of compression. The injector are in working order and so are the rockers. the bill is 3500 all in for new gaskets and oil cooler head work, arp studs and labor.
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I have been chasing down what was a perceived vacuum leak...
My Ex (V10, 4x4, 217K miles) started to have an intermittent rough running/no power situation very randomly. No codes on the scanner, and no real apparent cause or condition to pin it down. I noticed what sounded like a like throttle ping...figured it was a vacuum leak someplace in the spaghetti under the hood.
I began to run down the possibilities. I have recently had the entire suspension replaced and upgraded all 4 corners to Power Stop brakes. Figured it might be something related like the classic lines to the hubs.
Replaced the vacuum lines to the hubs - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Replaced the vacuum switch for the hubs - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Replaced fuel filter - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Ordered a new vacuum reservoir...
While waiting on that, changed all 10 plugs and coils. Not. Cheap. Ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Replaced IAC - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
As I was getting ready to install the vacuum res, it just croaked. it would turned over like it wanted to start, but wouldn't catch.
Of course.... So, now it had to be towed and yes, the fuel pump puked and that was that. I've never had one do anything but just quit suddenly before, so lesson learned. Evidently these pump can act up for a bit before they die.
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I bought my 2002 Excursion 6.8L about 2yrs ago, no less than a week of having it I started to have all sorts of problems. (insert nagging wife here) the biggest of problems was the darn thing started to run very rough and the ABS light cont to flash, then the truck just died (engine stopped, EXTREMELY scary in a intersection) I replaced the VSS in the rear diff.. acted a little better for a while then..no luck. I called around to every ford dealer in town. I need more break light fluid to there isn't enough grease on my wobbler pin?
So I got the initiative to simplify what I was seeing and hearing. I found that there was an OSS sensor on the tail of the transmission...drove my very intense self up to the dealership and bought myself a new OSS sensor. I got home and replaced it, then I drove my truck under the largest shade tree I could find and replaced all the coils and spark plugs. (Insert bloody knuckles and curse words here) Job Done. I thought to myself if this doesn't fix it then I don't know what to do. (I couldn't sell it)...again the point being...the truck has never ran better, gas mileage has doubled and the true power of the v10 has been restored. I found 4 different types of spark plugs in it and 3 different types of coils...?
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So Friday before last my ex laid down on me while i was headed to work. So I parked it in a walmart parking lot and caught a ride to work with a friend then had it towed home that evening. Problem i was having is it started running really bad, miss firing, smoking, and sounding real rough, but I wasn't getting any trouble codes. So after both uvch's, icp, ipr, icp pigtail, checking fuel for water contamination and pulling my hair out, i decided to check the oil and found it to be 4 quarts low. Talk about feel like a knuckle head.... While it was down it did receive a new water pump, a diesel site 203* thermostat, new billet thermostat housing, Gooch's Radiator Flush Procedure, and some fresh rotella etc.
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Noisy Fuel Pump ??? At least that's what I think it is. Pretty prominent whirring going on, sounds like it's coming from the rear passenger area. Dealer listened to it, agreed something was up. No immediate answer, will have to schedule service.
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When I first start my excursion in the morning, it starts fine, idles fine. If I don't let it sit for about 5mins plus i have this issue. I will start off and it has no power at all. I can barely get up to 20mph. It doesn't seem to want to change gears, I don't hear the turbo spool up. Then all of a sudden it will go to next gear, turbo spools up and it has power again. It is like I said a 6.0 power stroke, its a 2004 excursion with 214k miles.
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At first I thought it was a vacuum that was causing all of this.I was getting a (small leak) code I replaced the vac tubes and the code still came back. But that is not the main problem.I had two problems at the same time I just didn't know it. A vac leak wold not make it run this bad. I had just recently put in new plugs and found one plug loose. It was easy to take out and didn't need to be broken free. The plug was fouled out bad (black) the other 4 were good. It must have been the loose plug all a long that was giving me problems.
I drove the truck a while before I checked the plugs,I had no clue it was loose. When the plug job was done,it ran well (because engine was warm) the next day with a cold start it ran bad,real rough. I was thinking that the loose fouled plug caused the coil pack to over load and go bad.. Now when the weather is wet it makes it way worse. At least when it is dry I can drive it. Do you think the coil packs could be the problem creating the missing and rough idle??
There is only 70k on the truck I bought it new in 2002....
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When I purchased my 2005 Limited 6.0l I just assumed it had the factory gears in it which are 3.73s but I noticed the other day that my speedo is pretty much bang on with the 35" tires. So, that got me to thinking maybe they've been replaced already. It runs right around 2000rpm at 70mph.
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The X has been running great, well good enough, lately with no issues. I left work the other morning, and apparently the X didn't want to wake up that early. As soon as I started it up, the check engine light came on and it was running like crap. Had a bad hesitation all the way home. It feels like it is misfiring, but only under load. It doesn't do it if I brake torque it or Rev it up. Only while driving.
The codes I am getting are in the P035x family (typed that way for future searches). P0353 and P0358 are the codes I am getting (along with 4x4 codes for the vacuum solenoid...but that's the solution to other problems not relevant to this!). Being codes for the primary circuit, I popped the hood and checked out the connectors. Both connectors are fine, and tightly connected. I did notice however that cylinders 3 and 8 have other than OEM coil packs on them. These are the only 2 cylinders with those coil packs (they are white and the other 8 cylinders have black coils).
I don't want to just throw parts at it, and I'm not getting a hard miss fire code, just the 2 above. I might try to swap the coils with other cylinders tonight and see if the codes move to those cylinders. It has run like this a few times, but never set a code, and turning it off and back on has "fixed"this in the past.
And just for complete disclosure, while looking for where I saved a password, I found notes from August last year where I pulled codes, and these two codes were present then, with a cylinder 7 hard miss fire code. I replaced the c7 coil with motorcraft cleared the codes, and P0353 and P0358 went away and I haven't seen them since. The plugs are brand new and only have about 1000 miles on them (changed them in September when repairing the misfire and I don't drive it much).
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This is for a friends gasser V-10. It has a new fuel pump and oil change. Wont idle or stay running?
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I have a 2004 Excursion with a 6.0 Bought the truck already studded, EGR deleted, and a 54V FICM. When I bought the truck it had a hot stall, no restart problem. Found the high pressure oil leaks and resealed them by replacing the #3 injector and replacing the top injector seal in the #4 .Oil pressure reads very good now and I drove the truck for a couple weeks problem free.
Truck started smoking (white to gray) and felt like it had a miss. No misfire or contribution codes. Truck failed the bubble test and I narrowed the leak down to the passenger side by removing the banjo bolt
Banjo bolt at the front of the passenger head
Found the #3 injector loose...the copper washer
Copper washer had disintegrated/melted and appeared to be stuck to the side of the injector. Scraped off easily enough, cleaned up the injector and injector cup and reinstalled the injector with new O-rings and copper washer.
Put the truck back together and still smoked the same and still felt like it had a miss. Ran KOER test and found sometimes a contribution code for #2 and sometimes #6 .
Drove the truck to work and it didn't feel down on power...mostly just smoked and rough idle...but on the way home there was a lack of power and just as I pulled into my driveway the truck stalled...wouldn't restart. FICM voltage was good, high pressure oil read over 900, IPR was holding around 40%.
Pulled the secondary fuel cap
Secondary fuel cap to run another bubble test...there was no fuel in it...completely empty. Started to think that I had a fuel feed problem. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge
Fuel pressure gauge and drove the truck again...pressure wasn't great (45 lbs) but never dropped below 42...not even when it stalled. Pulled the cap again...dry again...yet the truck read fuel pressure.
Research showed that I was possibly pressurizing the fuel system with combustion pressure and that was possibly displacing the fuel from the fuel system. This would explain the run for a few minutes, then stall and no restart for a few minutes...I'm assuming that the pressure would bleed off and the fuel pump would start over.
Still failing the bubble test and still pointing to the passenger side. I pulled and recleaned the injector and cup...new orings
oRings and copper washer. Bubble test again...fail.
Pulled glow plug from #3 , failed bubble test still.
Pulled glow plug from #1 , failed.
Pulled #5 , failed...pulled #7 ...failed.
With no glow plugs in the passenger head I am still bubbling up to the fuel filter housing. Pulled the banjo bolt from the front of the drivers side head...no more bubbles.
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I am not sure if it is the high pressure or low pressure line. The line had rubbed on the frame and it wore a hole in the line. I want to get this fixed and wondered any remedies or if I need to replace the whole line. Someone said I could take it to a radiator shop and they could repair the line???
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