I need to back flush the heater core in my 2000 EX with a 6.8. Looking at the outlet hose I don't see anywhere to separate it, do I need to cut the rubber section and put a flushing "T" in it ?
View 1 RepliesTruck has recently developed a weird overheat issue. Ill try to give a s much background as possible:
I changed the heater core in the winter and that definitely cured the lack of interior heat issue the truck had since I got it. Blows hard and hot now. (I suspect I should also swap out the rear one too)
On occasional since then I have noticed the odd time a "gurgling sound" in the heater core area. Its not all the time but here and there.
Within the last 3 weeks or so I have gotten a check engine light. I've been a bit too busy to address it, and don't tend to drive very far (work and back) but have downloaded the comp and have a P0174 and P1299. Now just in the last 5 days I have noticed the temp gauge , which is normally firmly parked at about 1/3 in the zone has moved up to nearly the hot area. I can easily bring it back down by using full heat. I have cleared the codes and they haven't returned yet, but I'm suspicious of them non the less.
What can cause lean on only one bank? I have looked at the usual suspects and don't see any obvious leaks. Is it very common to have a intake gasket leak? what's the easiest way to check for that?
My rad appears in good shape although the AC condenser is pretty beat up. I'm definitely going to flush out the coolant, it looks good and used.
I really need to know. Since the X has 2 heater cores, how do the hoses run that connect the two together? Do they run in parallel, or in a series?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 F-150 5.4L 4x4. I am currently deployed and my wife has the truck. Just yesterday she told me my heater core went out again the only way she knows this is its the 4th time in just over a year. What would cause a heater core to go out so many times in a short period? What should I have my wife do? I do not want to get rid of my truck and I wont be back for another few months.
View 2 RepliesCoworker's 2000 Focus's heater core started leaking on his 50m commute this morning. He is ready to donate the car at this point. Any stop leak product (i.e. Bars) that would stop the leak without clogging the cooling system.
View 5 RepliesI cant find my original post but I am reporting back on a low heat output issue. Not the climate door. It was the heater core clogging up. Instead of replacing, this is what I did. Purchased a "drill pump" and some clear hose and some CLR. Cut both the heater hoses,taking consideration of where best to install "T" connectors.
While hoses disconnected,filled heater core with CLR(as much as I could get in it). Hooked clear hose,drill pump configuration,on to the heater hoses. Ran drill pump in both directions for several minutes and stopping and letting it sit for a few minutes.
About 1 hour all together. Pieces of debris came out of the heater core and I could see it through the clear hose. Flushed the heater core out. Installed "T" connectors and it is heating very well now.
We got our first taste of fall weather in Houston this weekend, and with it I've discovered a new problem with my truck. After the engine was up to temp, I noticed that the heater would blow cold air any time I sat at idle. If you rev up the rpm's to 1500-2000, you can feel the air start to get warm again. I'm guessing this means my heater core needs to be backflushed.
View 4 RepliesHow difficult is it to remove and install a heater core on a 2000 Toyota Camry with 4 cyc ?
View 18 RepliesPlastic coupling between core and hose, is there a specialty to needed to remove from heater core?
View 1 RepliesThe heat up front blows nice and hot but no matter how I adjust the rear ceiling mounted controls it blows cold in the back. Is this a blend door issue or something with the rear controls? Also, on a side note, one of my rear power vent windows just stopped working too. I guess it's either the overhead switch or the motor back there.
View 8 Replies 2005 Ford E Series heater core is "always on"?
That is, coolant always circulate through the core, there is no "valve" that turns it on or off.
The HOT / COLD dial opens and closes a door (vacuum operated) that allow air to enter the heater core area?
My commute into the office was more difficult than usual because of the fumes pouring out of the vents. I have a 1997 F-150 5.4 V8. should I remove both in and out hoses from the firewall and connect them with a plastic fitting not to risk breaking the aluminum fittings on the motor?(There is an advanced a mile away) OR is it possible for me to remove the in hose from the firewall and remove the out hose from the motor, and run the in hose directly into the motor. Are the fittings the same and can I do that with limited time and tools?
View 8 RepliesThe water level is up, the heater hose is hot on both sides of the heater hose bypass valve, the MtrCrft thermo is pretty new, but it blows cool air out the vents even after a half hour of driving. It was working great last week and then nothing. I guess you can see the blend door moving if you pop the glove box out?..........haven't tried that.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 Limited Ex and was wondering can upgrade the heater controls to the digital controls. What would have to be done to accomplish this task?
View 7 RepliesThe heater on my 2001 ford F150 is not heating. The blower is working, the inlet hose is hot, the outlet hose is cold. Removal of hoses confirms that there is very limited flow through the heater core. I flushed it but got only minimal improvement. However when I back flush (reversing the flow through the core) the flow is great. Here's the question: Can I reverse the flow through the heater core on a permanent basis? It seems this would give the needed flow of hot fluid through the core to allow heating. Is there a problem with doing this?
View 14 RepliesI have a 89 ford mustang with 4 cylinder. After being stored for the winter I noticed anti-freeze leaking from drain tube below heater core (small amount). I am not looking forward to replacing the heater core in this car! Any reason this happened after the car sitting in storage all winter??? or just a coincidence??
View 7 RepliesFord dealership is having problems with heater core repair. 2002 Ford F150 Supercrew. Problem is antifreeze (or early on just smell) in the cabin. 4 heater core replacements in 2 years. A hose (?) replaced. Electrolysis kit replaced. 4th heater core replacment finished yesterday. I know that I need to let the dripped antifreeze work out of the system, but I am smelling mild antifreeze this AM. Usually gets worse over 2-3 days then I have to take it in. What might be being missed here?
View 5 Replies1991 F250 Diesel. I'm on my 5th heater core in the past 18 months. This last one lasted less than 500 miles. I'm using the Spectre brand from Autozone. I find it hard to believe i could have gotten 5 bad ones in a row. I have pressure checked the system and it's normal. There is no fluctuations in the readings, so I doubt there is a head gasket issue.
I checked for stray voltage in the coolant and the results never got above .17 volts, but it was usually lower than that. I thought I had an electrolysis issue when I noticed the heater core tubes touching the firewall, so for this last core, I insulated the tubes, but that didn't work. I've checked everything I can think of. The truck has 117K miles on it. I don't drive it much, less than a few thousand miles a year.
How to replace the heater core?
View 13 RepliesFriend of mine has a 99 Ford F150 with the 5.4L. He thinks the heater core has gone on it as it blows a mist through the top vents when he turns the heater on. He can also smell antifreeze. Up here in Canada, its, well quite cold, nuff said about that. He has had estimates of anywhre from $800-$1000 to change it whereas the cost of the core is below $100. Is there anywhere that he can get a diagram.... of how to change it, all he knows was that he was told to remove the entire dash to gat at it.. Is that true ?
View 14 RepliesI've got my dash pulled apart but am unclear as to what I need to do with my steering wheel. I've got a 2007 F150 manual that says "remove steering column pinch bolt" along with a warning about not allowing the steering column shaft to rotate once the bolt is out. I believe I have identified the bolt (sits a few inches away from the steering shaft's u-joint on the side facing the driver -?).
How do I ensure the shaft doesn't rotate? Do I need to make the wheel lock before removing the bolt? Will the steering column drop down thereby allowing the dash to be pulled away from the firewall or do I need to remove additional bolts?
I saw this video : F150 Heater Core part 1 - YouTube
For 98 F150, but the differences in design are throwing me off a bit.