Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Wanders At Curve Road?
Dec 6, 2013
We bought a 2000 Ex V10 4x4 less than a year ago to pull my 2 horse trailer when I wanted to ride (so I didn't have to borrow my husbands truck). This is the 2nd Ex we have owned but the first was years ago and that one was nearly new. This one has 176,000 miles on it and it had significant sway to it. So we have had the steering box rebuilt, new shocks, all new sway bushings replaced and it drives a lot better.
It USE to be just my towing vehicle, but now it's my daily driver (had a BMW X5) and I've noticed that it steers fairly straight on a nice straight smooth highway but when I take the back roads to work (a lot of curves) it wanders. What else should I do to it? And would an air lift in the rear work the same? We had one in our other Ex and it made pulling a trailer better.
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2000 Super Duty 2wd. My truck has a lot of slop and wanders down the road. My rotors are also warped and after they get warm they shake like crazy. So I plan on new rotors, bearings, calipers, pads, dust caps and rear rotors, calipers and pads for the rear. I will also be doing factory wheels and new tires and shocks all the way around.
My questions is to rebuild the front suspension and do it to last what all will I need? I see some moog kits but I do not think they are complete for what I need. I only have 126,000 miles with a sound motor and tranny so I feel she is worth it. I know how to work on the truck but the suspension is my weak spot. At 126,000 miles I feel it is a good investment
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My truck seems like it wanders when driving down the road. Could it be the fact that I haven't gotten used to the electric power steering? The truck is a 2013 F150 screw 6.5 bed 4x4 5.0....
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My truck wanders all over the road especially on the highway. The stealership said everything on the front end looked good and tight. I just recently had the front end aligned by an alignment shop, but the wandering still occurs. Is my last resort to try and tighten/adjust the steering box? I have owned and driven bigger lifted trucks before and they were no where near as bad. I realize this truck isn't meant to drive like a sports car, but it should at least drive in a straight line. I am at a loss and it is becoming very frustrating to drive most times.
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It's an 02 f250 4x4 crew with 7.3, 6 in lift and 35 in tires. It has all ways wandered a little bit and I just accepted it. I changed everything in the steering from ball joints, tie rods and drag links less than 2000 miles ago. Everything still seems good and tight. Recently it has gotten a lot worse so I checked again and everything seems to be tight. Where to or what to check next? It's to the point I don't feel safe letting my wife drive it and I don't enjoy driving it.
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This piece just blew all the coolant out of my vehicle. Pulled it off and headed to the parts store.
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Test drove an Ex yesterday. It bounced around a lot while going over a bumpy road. Bounce seemed to come from the rear. Is this just bad struts? This is the first Ex I have driven. Just want to make sure this isn't something they all do.
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The Ex has started intermittent (less intermittent now) shaking while driving down the road. Not very noticeable at low speeds 20 or less. Idles smooth. Took it in and had tires checked, balanced, rotated, and aligned.
No difference. It was so bad my wife got pulled over by a police officer on the freeway here. He was extremely nice, looked under the car and suggested as possibilities. The locking Hubs on the front (4x4), U-Joints, Axle issue, Stuck in 4 wheel drive, or bad power steering pump.
Once she picked me up and we drove home from our dinner, I got pulled over. When it is in its violent shaking mode, it pulls to the right. when the shaking subsides (for an unknown reason) the pull to the right is gone. I do not notice anything that causes it to start or stop the shaking.
2001 Diesel 4x4, 4" Exhaust, Injen Cold Air Intake
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I have 2 F-350 4x4's and they both wander back and forth when driving. They feel like they don't have enough caster. One is a 2000 V-10 extended cab with 8 foot bed. The other is a 2015 6.7 diesel crew cab with 8 foot bed.
I have driven the 2000 for so many years that I have grown use to the very slight sawing of the wheel to keep the rig straight. When my wife got her 2015 it does the same thing. The 2000 is leaf spring and the 2015 is coil spring. This bothered me when I first got the 2000 (used) but I just figured it was part of
the charm of a big truck.
I know I could put a caster shim in the 2000 but there must be a better way to solve the problem. Both are stock, no lift and no heavy winch or stuff.
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I have a 2003 Ex 6.0 psd, 155k miles, and was on my way to work to a site 40 miles from nowhere. I was about 10 miles from my destination cruising around 65 when the Ex started losing power. I would say within a couple of miles power was gone and i had no choice but to pull over. I popped the hood, got out had a look around and saw no leaks or anything out of the ordinary. Let it sit for a few minutes and tried to restart it to no avail. There was no check eng light or any signs something was wrong.
I just so happened to have my OBD scanner with me and plugged it in and read for any extra codes. Three popped up on the screen: P0232, P0263, and P0278.
P0232 Fuel Pump Secondary (Feedback) Circuit High Voltage,
P0263 is described as a cylinder number 1 contribution/balance. In essence, this code is stating that the number one cylinder in the firing order is experiencing a fuel-related problem.
P0278 same as above for cyl 6.
Right away i thought the fuel/lift pump took a dump on me and was causing the fuel issues in the two cylinders.
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My dad has a 2002 Limited X and my uncle had a '99? F350 dually. Both have this issue:
-Occasionally when driving down the road the truck will suddenly just try to veer off to one side or the other and then the steering gets really rough (The steering wheel moves back and forth rapidly. My dad has to pull off to the side of the road, completely stop and turn the wheel all the way to each side twice and it seems to correct it momentarily.
-The other issue is that when making a corner there will be a hard "thump" noise, and then the before mentioned issue occurs.
My dad has replaced all 4 ball joints, the 1 bad tie rod and has gone through a set of Warn Lockout Hubs (In less then 6 months. He had to drive around with the hubs locked in to prevent the truck from pulling due to warn out needle bearing. This somehow resulted in the passenger side Hub being internally destroyed and that wasn't even the side the bad ball joint was on.)
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For a while now, my coolant temp gauge in the instrument cluster would bounce according to the bumps on the road, only when engine is fully warmed up. So I disconnected the ECT sensor to see if there's anything unusual. Nothing suspicious found, so I plugged it back in. Now my temp gauge is at "Cold" all the time. OBD reader shows normal coolant temp rise.
I shorted the ECT connector to simulate a hot condition--gauge still shows Cold. Checked the yellow/red wire against ground--5 ohm. Disconnected battery for 30 minutes--no change.
Now, it looks like I'll have to pull the instrument cluster, which is not something I want to do since I don't really have a place to work on the car, but I take this drastic measure.
Mine is a 2001, with the analog cluster.
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When I drive the 460 on the highway it tends to constantly wander, always needing minor correction. The tires are Michelin Pilot MXM4 18s set to Lexus recommendations, the tire wear is excellent.
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While driving whenever we turn a curve to the right the steering wheel jerks and the whole front end jerks and will either quit when we slow down or come back straight. It seems the faster we go the worse it is also starting yesterday day we have noticed that the front end is beginning to make a popping or thumping sound while turning a curve or sometime will pop or thump randomly. It's starting to get pretty scary.
Just some info, tires are fine, no wear, all correct pressure. Had to recently use 4x4 in the snow but didn't have any problems with it. Did however hit a ditch pretty hard on the driver side and quickly came back out on the road from sliding off in the snow. Has a bad leak from the power steering reservoir to the pump (the line is bad but can't change it on my own and top off reservoir daily). Truck has 227k miles on body and 157 k on newish motor that was just put on in September.
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2000 F350. 4x4, V10. 153,xxx miles. Here's the story. Whenever I hit a little bump in the road, I get a vibration directly under my feet and in the gas pedal, NOT in the steering. It will go away pretty quick or when I hit another bump. It only happens when the front driveshaft is not spinning. Hubs locked in in 2WD, it doesn't vibrate. Hubs unlocked and in 4x4 High it doesn't vibrate.
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I have a super duty with the 5.4 in it. it just quit while off road n wouldn't start back up. pulled it back to camp, wiggled wires around cam n crank sensors n it fired up n stalled numerous times then just wouldn't even fire back up. loaded on trailer n brought home, buddy put his tester on there n said there was no rpm reading so I replaced the crank sensor, it fired up n stalls still. wires seem to be good to crank n cam sensors. don't have a manual to tell me what relays are what.
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I've got a 2012 F250 SD and when i go over some bumps in the road or even down a gravel road, the door panel on the driver side vibrates and it's noisy. Is there any way to pull the panel and add some foam padding or something to stop this? I can see the panel vibrate or heck, maybe it the whole door.
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Sound is coming from the back wheels i believe. Iv been driving with winter tires on since last year December. I only hear it when im going over 60km/h on a curve on highway.
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I own a 93 with 193k miles, and recently I've noticed at speeds 30 mph and above the car will sway when going through a curve, the higher the speed the more difficult it is to keep under control.
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Went around sharp curve it cut off and now won't crank...
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I have a 2000 oldmobile Intrique, with the 3.5L northstar engine. While driving down the road the car will hesitate while the rpm's will decrese for a second and go back to where it was before, the speed odometer will jump up and go back down. the service will flash on and off. The car almost acts like it dies for a second but keeps on going. I have the codes checked and their are no codes in the computer.
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