Ford Excursion :: 2000 V10 Won't Start / Truck Will Not Even Crank / Relay Will Continue Clicking
Jul 17, 2016
2000 excursion V-10. I parked the truck, went back to start it and all my gauges blink, and the number one relay under the dash (interior light relay) begins clicking. The truck will not even crank. The relay will continue clicking (even with the key off) until you remove and replace the relay. Sometimes I will get absolutely nothing when I turn the key. I have tried jumping the battery, no change. Also tried starting it in neutral to trouble shoot the NSS, but it won't even click when in neutral. I checked battery connection, and followed the battery cables to look for a short but found nothing.
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I have a 98 f150 Lariat 4wd Automatic with a 2000 4.6. When i turn the key the only thing that happens is i hear a relay in the fusebox in the dash clicking. I can cross the starter relay on the firewall with a screwdriver and itll start right up. Heres what ive done troubleshooting wise.
1. Checked battery terminals. Fine, it will start with jumping the relay so it seems good with that regard.
2. Tested the relay per the manual. Good.
3.Ohms Tested the white ignition switch box under the dash per manual. Good
4. Voltage tested the Trans Range Sensor per manual. Good.
5. Checked over all fuses, none blown.
6. No theft lights come on.
I figure since it will start jumping the relay that the battery, starter, and starter solenoid are all good. Only thing i cant seem to find is the Starter Interrupt Relay, or any sign of fusible links on the main battery cables. I am really at a loss here i figured one of the components ive tested would be it.
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Black Beauty finally gave up. Replaced battery, replaced fuel pump relay. Would only run with starter fluid sprayed into the air intake. She'll crank but not start. Here she sits at the dealership.
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1999 XTL 4.0 auto, was doing fine, replaced Interior light bulb, now wont crank over!!! i suspect the anti theft system... how do i fix or ByPass the security system, i can start the truck by Manually engaging the starter Relay under the hood.
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I am having trouble with my 2001 F-150. Starting yesterday it would not start. At 1st i thought it wa the battery, so i took it off, charged it, put it back in the truck and still no start. There is a clicking noise coming from a relay in the cabin fuse box, disconnected the battery, removed relay to inspect and everything looks good. After plugging it back in, and connecting the battery, the truck still wont start and there is a clicking sound coming from the dash near the radio. Rhis is my work vehicle!!!
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I have a 2000 V10 4wd. I'm going to list what happened in time order to best describe this problem. Sometimes when key is off there is a clicking from under the brake proportioning valve and sometimes a 2 second long buzz. When this happens, the A/C blower motor can run with key out also. If mistakenly left on over night it kills the battery.
I also notice that sometimes while driving my airbag light comes on randomly and sometimes it dings with doors closed. Also a few weeks ago the overdrive light starts blinking every few days. A few weeks later it wont start. No crank. So I put in new starter because mine was looking pretty crusty. Still no crank, but if I jump connection on inner fender solenoid/relay, then it starts fine.
Next day I put in a new solenoid/relay on passenger inner fender. Cranks fine and starts fine for the whole day until it randomly begins cranking by it self. With no key in. It did this several times even after re-checking everything and cycling key switch to check for bad connection there. The trans starts shifting hard, like the line pressure increased and sometimes it growls a little when it shifts into 4th
I then figured it was the Digital Trans Range Sensor which only allows start signal to go from key switch to the inner fender solenoid/relay if the trans is in park or neutral. I tested the DTRS and it seems to be working fine. It only has power at the solenoid if its in park or neutral on the tan/red wire, but the wht/pnk wire has power even when not cranking.
Being I couldn't figure out why it had power, I cut the red/lt blu wire at the ignition harness and ran a wire from the key switch side to the solenoid. Cranks and starts fine for 2 days and no mystery cranking either. Then after my wife had it all day acting fine I go to leave work that night in the rain after working a 14 hour day..... no crank. I noticed the "THEFT" light blinking but I've noticed that before and never had an issue starting.
When I came back to work in the morning it cranked and started fine 3 or 4 times then crank but no start again. I reconnected the crank wire back to factory thinking I bypassed something necessary. No change. Still acting randomly. I just ordered a VSS for the rear axle and a new DTRS for the trans. Gonna put these in today and test. Next will be a key switch since I'm having things work with key not on and I have 8volts on my grey/yell Accessory wire with key off.
I found a relay that clicks when inserted in it's socket even if key off. Its located driver side by Firewall by the Brake Booster. It has a tan/red wire(same as activation wire on inner fender solenoid but doesn't effect starting.
I have a schematic of starting system but I can't post pics because new acct here. The starter wire is red/blue at Key Switch then wht/pink after Central Junction Box, then dk blu/org after CPPJ clutch pedal position jumper(mine is auto trans. thats why is has factory jumper) but then turns to wht/pink before the DTRS then tan/red out of DTRS and at solenoid(I'm not sure it goes direct from DTRS to solenoid but color stays). As mentioned earlier, the white/pink wire has power but it shouldn't unless cranking, so its either getting it from the CJB or from where it changes from dk blu/org to wht/pink. Is there anything between the CJB and the DTRS? If nothing then why does color of wire change, and what could be giving the wire power?
Just as a note, in case it matters....my interior lights don't come on when door is opened but when it is open it dings like the key is in even when its not.
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Having some problems with my truck.... First off I bought a 2002 excursion and drove it for one day. Then I was at the car wash cleaning up the truck. Then I saw the window fogging up so I turned the car off. Now it won't start.
I had previously installed a new stereo, but had some problems, so I ran the remote wire to the fuse box, because the wire in the harness wasn't getting power.. So after a little trouble shooting we found out that the fuel pump wasn't working or was bad.
We replaced it, now it has pressure but will not start, will start with starting fluid but will not crank on its own. someone told me it may be a bad PCM? and a dealer can only replace it... I don't have tons of cash, as i bought this truck on 8/30/12 and this happened the day after i bought it.
The previous owner has paid or the fuel pump replacing but I don't think its right on my part to have him pay more money as this may be a mess up on my part with hooking the radio up to the fuse box... we have tried the fuses,realys, crank sensors...
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Still haven't found out the problem with excursion quitting it has stopped for good this time cranks but wont start, fuel pump and filter have been replaced shop said it was going bad, sent to dealer twice no fix.
2000, XLT, V10, 150k, 4X4 .....
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I'm new to diagnosing AC issues in automotive applications but understand how it works and am mechanically capable. Anyway, when i turn the AC on, to max or normal the fan blows with no cold at all. I did notice a clicking relay sound under the truck only when the AC was turned on, it happens every 2-3 seconds. Does my system need recharged, or is it a bad relay? Also, is there a guide on recharging my sig rig?
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We just bought a 2000 F350 knowing it has some issues. The #5 fuse (generator/secondary) under the hood consistently blows fuses the second it's inserted, meaning there's a dead short. Truck will crank but not start. As well, theres a 5 amp fuse under the dash, which when inserted, keeps the instrument cluster on as if the key was on, even with no key in the barrel. We cannot hear the fuel pump running, the fuel reset switch is fine, all ignition wires at the column are showing 12 volts at the right times. What could be wrong? I'm a 12 volt specialist, but not a ford tech.
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2000 ford excursion limited v10 removed factory radio and put aftermarket stereo now wont start just clicking....
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I installed an EP27 electronic turn signal relay and changed the tail bulbs to Sylvania red 3157Rs in our Exped and everything works fine. I installed another EP27 in our Excur and the relay starts clicking when nothing is on and nothing else has been changed - all stock bulbs and working fine before.
No lights are blinking, but the EP27 turn signal relay is clicking away. Select left turn, right turn or hazard lights and they blink fine. Deselect the lights and the relay continues to click. Swapped the relay from the Exped to the Excur and it clicks, too. Reinstalled the stock turn signal relay and all is fine. There must be some difference or problem in the wiring, it doesn't make sense.
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Intermittent problem, occurred 4 times during past 4 weeks, always during wet/rainy/damp weather. Three times when car was sitting overnight, once at work in parking lot after a 12 hour work shift. Each time, the engine started 5 or 6 times then died like someone turned the key off two seconds after the engine started. Then the engine would not crank or turn over, just some clicking near the relay box under the hood. Lights, power windows, etc. all work fine. Battery voltage OK. Jump starting or battery charger makes no difference. Note: With key in "run" position, no display to odometer though all idiot lights light up like normal.
1st time, after about 15-20 minutes, car started. 2nd time, towed to my mechanic (who thought security system lock out) then a second tow to dealer. Dealer found power into power distribution center but none out. Replaced PDC. Car worked fine for 1 week. Same problem twice since repair. First post repair failure I had van re-towed to dealer. Of course, it started for them. Left overnight 2 more nights. Started for them every time. They say it is a "problem with computers" but they don't know exactly what. They also say the Alarm set Dash light is coming on with the rest of the dash lights and that is a no-no. 2nd post repair failure happened this morning. Tried locking door to reset alarm. No change. Locked doors, opened rear hatch. Lights flashed but horn did not sound. When car is working and I do that (open hatch with other doors locked), in addition to lights flashing, horn beeps! I also disconnected the positive battery terminal, waited 10 minutes, reconnected and attempted restart. No change. Car still won't start and odometer display does not work.
Van has 110,000 miles. Otherwise in fantastic shape and runs great (though only gets about 20MPG). Owned van for 2 months and have driven about 7,000 miles. 1st problem I've encountered (other than a very uncomfortable drivers seat - feels like a spring is sprung!)
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I just bought a 00 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 auto...it wouldn't start but not because something was wrong. it kept making a clicking sound and the theft light was one blinking...took my bronco to work and when I came home it started right up...I was thinking one of the keys didn't have the chip in it but it started with both keys....it doesn't have a key fob or keyless entry. I tried locking my drivers door with the key and unlock it...
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In an attempt to bleed my drivers side caliper today I noticed clicking coming from the #2 relay switch under the dash. The clicking stopped once I pulled out the relay. I continued to bleed my caliper which I've been having issues doing so. It was kinda odd how I was able to bleed the caliper after pulling the relay. Is it possible that the [email protected] system could be causing issues with the pcm? 2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles .....
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Sometimes after running my 94 Limited, it doesn't want to start - it does crank - like it's not getting fuel. I have found the work around and want to know if it would be fixed by replacing the fuel pump relay.
The symptom is just after starting, it starts to run poorly, and then dies out, then will not start at all. I use to keep trying to start it for 20-40 minutes and suddenly it seemed to work.
It seems the work around is to turn the key to on for about 5 seconds and then turn it off - then it starts and runs as good as ever.
So, is this a symptom of a bad relay? I thought I'd start there because of the cost of the relay is fairly cheap. 1994 Explorer Limited 4x4?
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I have a 1998 Camry. My directional light and click correctly when I tun them on. When I GENTLY turn off the directional signal, I hear the relay continue to click, however the dash lights do not blink, nor do the outside lights. If I let the directional lever jump back into place, the problem does not occur. Is it the switch in the column, or the relay?
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Alright so I have a 99 7.3l. One day I went to start my truck and when I turn the key to the on position all is normal and then when I turn it all the way to crank it nothing happens. I hear a relay click ann thed that's it. Me and a buddy of mine spent quite some time on going through the entire truck. The starter was replaced, the neutral safety switch was replaced and the ignition switch was replaced yet the problem is still there. We then discovered that fuse #20 under the dash keeps blowing with every turn of the key. The manual states that this fuse is a starter motor relay coil PCM ( gasoline only). So if it's gas only why is it even in there. Let me just say that I can jump the fender mounted relay and the truck starts.
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I have a 2004 Excursion with the 6.0 diesel 189k kilometers. Had an egregious delete done about 3 weeks ago. A couple of nights ago the temperature was about 10 degrees f and Whalen I started her it sounded like electrical arcing or grinding. She started and off I went. The next morning it was 0 f went to start and made the same noise and then just stopped cranking. Now when I turn to start I get nothing except the relay click under dash. I tried jumping the solenoid and got nothing. Someone told me that my ground connection might be off the starter. Problem is I can't seem to get at the starter.
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Periodically my X doesn't want to start. Doesn't even turn over or crank. The weird thing is, sometimes it acts like the battery is too weak and the radio will flash on or maybe I hear a fast kink-kink-kink sound. Other times, it's just dead, like it doesn't even have a battery in it. Eventually it works again and cranks like a charm. Starts right up.
The ground from the battery to the fender looks good. I noticed the ground from the frame to the body was gone, so I replaced that. Didn't change a thing. I'm reading all the things it COULD be and I'm getting frustrated. I hate electrical problems.
2000 V10 Excursion XLT, 180,000 miles
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Ihave a 2008 E 350 6.0 , while driving i hit a small pothole no big deal the van stops running and coasts to the side of the road. get her towed. The dash lights show the PATS is engaged so it is no start no crank.
The 30 amp fuse PCM power relay is blown. when i replace it it blows as soon as i turn the key. im checking for wire chafing but so far have found none.
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