I have a 2000 v10 excursion and once in a while when I shift from park to drive it will stall and lunge forward. It will stay running if I go to neutral but as soon as it goes into drive it will stall and also reverse seems to work sooner than drive will come back I have been stalled and had to put it in reverse and pull to the shoulder.
View 14 RepliesI have been getting awful gas mileage lately. I have a 2000 6.8L V10 Excursion, so I wasn't expecting much but it got bad. I know winter weather kills gas mileage but i finally noticed I do not have fifth gear. Fluid is good, clean and not burnt and all other gears hit when they need to, what this could be besides a new tranny.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 excursion V10. It will die in gear forward or reverse the overdrive light flashes and cel shows code p0720. I have new plugs and COP on all 10 cylinders. I have replaced the differential speed sensor and the sensor on top of the transmission. I have a basic code reader it shows at the time it dies the vehicle speed is 70 mph while the speedometer shows 0. When I unhook the abs module it still has code p0720 but it does not die. I am replacing the abs module?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 Excursion w/ V10 and I have an issue with the transmission form time to time. some times it does not want to shift out of first. if I pull over and turn it off for a few minutes it will be fine for a while and it doesn't do this all the time. A few nights ago it did this so I pulled over and turned it off and it still did it but then it started shifting on its own just fine till we got on the high way which is started shifting in and out of over drive going around 60-65 MPH. didn't want to go too fast not knowing what it could or would do. it did this for a few miles then it started working fine. next day it did the same thing not wanting to shift out of first then started working fine. drove it around last night and it all worked perfectly. The CEL is on but I get a no communication text from the scanner so that is another thing I need to look in to. I'm guessing it is an electrical issue being when it works it shifts fine and it does not slip at all.
View 14 RepliesMy 01 excursion with a v10 6.8 liter gas engine was running rough and cutting out at 40 miles an hour climbing hills and similar situations. Had some engine codes for cylinder misfires. Changed all the spark plugs. Now it does not cut out and runs generally smoother. But something is still very wrong. At idle, you can hear it kind of shuddering.
In first and second gear it does pretty well, but when it goes to 3rd the shudder and vibration in the vehicle becomes noticeable, it can become very bad as you slowly climb to 40 miles or 50 miles an hour. If you give it gas and rev the RPMs up and go on up to 60 or 70 miles an hour, it smooths out and you would not think there was anything wrong with it.
The mechanic said we would have to wait until an engine code comes up, but I would like to understand and fix this problem if we could.
I have a 2000 Excursion 7.3 4x4 with 237k miles on the original 4R100. Yesterday afternoon I went to back out of a parking space and the truck wouldn't move. When I put it in R, the transmission will engage and upon pressing the gas pedal it acts like it wants to move but will not budge. It rolls forward with no issue or noise. It will not roll backwards at all - not in neutral and not in reverse. The transmission shifts fine but with some hesitation to engage each gear. I have noticed some slippage but nothing crazy.
I 1st thought something might be wrong with the rear end but after some research I think it might be the transmission.
I am purchasing a 2003 Excursion with a V10 sight unseen this weekend. It has a stalling issue. Apparently it will run and then die. What are the things I should look at besides the fuel filter. The owner said the fuel pressure was ok.
View 14 RepliesMy EX died on me twice today when I put it in reverse. Once at the doctors office and once in my driveway when I got home. Is there any sort of interlock that would cause it to die when I put it in reverse. I replaced the idle control servo not long ago so I am hopeing it is not that although with the crap parts coming from China it is not impossible.
View 14 Replies2001 V10 Excursion, just as the title implies, has severe hesitation issues and stalls out seemingly randomly, yet consistently. It started back 3ish months ago with a slight misfire(maybe?) at higher rpms (3.5k+) occasionally. Ive changed all 10 plugs, with no malfunctioning symptoms on them. I've cleaned and then replaced the MAF, and it seemed to fix it, but shortlived, and it was the exact same the day later. Air filter checked and cleaned, tb checked, tps visually checked. Codes were not thrown until it started to get quite bad, but only resulted in a lean condition both banks code. I seem to have fuel pressure, replaced the fuel pump and filter when the pump died about a year ago. As the problem worsened, I replaced the o2 sensors the other day, with still no change.
I plan on getting a fuel gauge to confirm for certain, as well as a vacuum gauge. I will check the fuel pump relay, and I am gonna beat on the CAT to see if its busted. Aside from replacing the COPs, it made me an hour late to work as I had to limp it along the highway, hazards blazing.
Before it starts acting up, I cant apply more than 5% pedal or it cuts out terribly, and a short while after that the motor starts surging terribly no matter the speed, and the pedal does absolutely nothing, like its not connected. I either stop and turn it off, or it dies, either way I stop. Restart the truck after a few seconds and it works fine for another....I dont know 100 yards maybe. Makes for one heck of a roadtrip.
Looking for any options that would kill a v10. Can a bad Cat kill a truck? I don't think all 10 cops would fail...or can they? Ignition module? Busted TPS? I'm lost.
I've been researching the issue here on FTE, and this past weekend replaced the IAC Valve. I also cleaned the MAF.
Symptoms are random stalling. Before today, it was only at idle. Today it did while under power. It stalled three times before I had it towed home.
It starts up fine, but after stalling it did seem like it wasn't getting fuel when I cranked it a few times. But, then it was good. It still starts fine, and idles fine.
When a pump goes on one of these, do they act up first, or they simply stop working?
This issue has taken place over the past several months, but seems to have come to a head today.
Last resort is changing out the filter before I take it in.?
I have a 2003 Excursion 4X4 V10 (6.8l) gas with 130K.
About six months ago, the truck started stalling at irregular intervals. The truck runs fine for weeks at a time, but will suddenly die. This happens at idle, and under power. After stalling, the truck usually starts back up, but there has been a few instances where I thought it sounded fuel starved. It has stalled as many as four times in a row (within 15 minutes), but shortly after it runs fine again.
I researched this board, and tried the following: cleaned the MAF, and replaced the IAC Valve.
But, it stalled again, so in late February I took it to the dealer; a AAA approved repair facility which means they guarantee the fix for two years.
The dealer claimed to have pulled a P0231 code. As a result, they replaced the fuel pump and assembly, along with the fuel filter.
The truck ran fine until two weeks ago, then it went thru a series of stalls again. In each instance, the truck started right up, and I drove it to the dealer.
The dealer took it in again and had it for six business days, but they could not replicate the issue. I suggested they test the PCM/fuel relay and the signal going to the fuel pump - they said everything checked out okay. No charge, the ticket remains open.
What could be causing this? I am not too good with electrical stuff; in fact, I know very little. Another member explained a way to test the signal at the time the truck stalls, but I am not sure if I could competently do it. I am thinking I need to start replacing part after part until it stops? I don't mind doing that, but would need to know which parts to focus on. Should I start with the MAF? I cleaned it, but do not know how to test it.
I have a 2004 Excursion with a 6.0 Bought the truck already studded, EGR deleted, and a 54V FICM. When I bought the truck it had a hot stall, no restart problem. Found the high pressure oil leaks and resealed them by replacing the #3 injector and replacing the top injector seal in the #4 .Oil pressure reads very good now and I drove the truck for a couple weeks problem free.
Truck started smoking (white to gray) and felt like it had a miss. No misfire or contribution codes. Truck failed the bubble test and I narrowed the leak down to the passenger side by removing the banjo bolt
Banjo bolt at the front of the passenger head
Found the #3 injector loose...the copper washer
Copper washer had disintegrated/melted and appeared to be stuck to the side of the injector. Scraped off easily enough, cleaned up the injector and injector cup and reinstalled the injector with new O-rings and copper washer.
Put the truck back together and still smoked the same and still felt like it had a miss. Ran KOER test and found sometimes a contribution code for #2 and sometimes #6 .
Drove the truck to work and it didn't feel down on power...mostly just smoked and rough idle...but on the way home there was a lack of power and just as I pulled into my driveway the truck stalled...wouldn't restart. FICM voltage was good, high pressure oil read over 900, IPR was holding around 40%.
Pulled the secondary fuel cap
Secondary fuel cap to run another bubble test...there was no fuel in it...completely empty. Started to think that I had a fuel feed problem. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge
Fuel pressure gauge and drove the truck again...pressure wasn't great (45 lbs) but never dropped below 42...not even when it stalled. Pulled the cap again...dry again...yet the truck read fuel pressure.
Research showed that I was possibly pressurizing the fuel system with combustion pressure and that was possibly displacing the fuel from the fuel system. This would explain the run for a few minutes, then stall and no restart for a few minutes...I'm assuming that the pressure would bleed off and the fuel pump would start over.
Still failing the bubble test and still pointing to the passenger side. I pulled and recleaned the injector and cup...new orings
oRings and copper washer. Bubble test again...fail.
Pulled glow plug from #3 , failed bubble test still.
Pulled glow plug from #1 , failed.
Pulled #5 , failed...pulled #7 ...failed.
With no glow plugs in the passenger head I am still bubbling up to the fuel filter housing. Pulled the banjo bolt from the front of the drivers side head...no more bubbles.
I have a 2001 F250 V10. It idles around 1k and when stopped at stop lights or when put in reverse it stalls. I have replaced IAC, fuel filter, tranny filter, oil filter, plugs, coil boots, tranny fluid, oil, air filter, and PVC along with the PVC hose. I'm totally stumped. It doesn't stall if I do a rolling stop.
View 14 RepliesMy '05 (134k, rwd, V10) has had an occasional issue with stalling when going into neutral. The normal idle speed in park or neutral is 700. In drive or reverse it dips down to 350 or so and then evens out at 500. The stalling is not all the time, perhaps 2 out of 10 shifts. It is slightly worse with the A/C running. Every time it stalls, it records a P0506 error which I then clear out with my ScanGauge II.
I have done some research and have replaced the air filter (super dirty), fuel filter (not sure on how old) and cleaned the MAF tonight. For the MAF, I pulled it from the air tube and gave it a bunch of squirts of MAF cleaner. I did this 3 times letting it dry in between cleanings. I have run a bottle of SeaFoam through it, as well. The idle seems to be very smooth and it pulls my 7k travel trailer without issue. That did get a little better with the new air filter and fuel filter.
I went for a ride tonight and the problem persists. I'm taking it in to have the A/C recharged next week and will have the shop diagnose it. I came across this post which details my issue exactly. The steps are to reprogram the PCM and TCM, and possibly replace the throttle body. Is the reprogram something an independent shop can/should do?
P0506 idle lower than expected on 05 ford f350 v10
My 2,000 7.3 with 150K miles have been doing good until the last four weeks. It randomly stalled and once would not start when I got back to it after a 30 minutes lunch break. The stalling happened at unpredictable rpm. Sometimes it stalled at near 2000 while I was still in low gear, other time it stalled when I was cruising on street at 30 miles/hr. Twice it stalled while I was at stop light and at idle speed.
The CPS is new. I replaced the fuel filter and it quit stalling for about 100 miles, I was so happy thinking the problem was fixed but then it stalled again.
Each time it stalled it would take about one minute resting before I could successfully start it again. If I tried to start immediately it simply would not start.
Do you think perhaps it is the two filters in the fuel tank being the culprit? I doubt the filters were ever replaced. I looked around and found a Hutch mod where these two filters were removed. An in-line filter was installed on the frame between the tank and the fuel pump. I just cannot understand why Ford engineers place filters inside the tank, which requires either dropping the tank or removing the truck bed in order to change the darn filters.
I have a 2000 Expedition that hesitates and sometimes stalls when taking off from a dead stop. The problem is not consistent and therefore hard to diagnose. I have had it to the dealership and two other mechanics and none of them have been able to fix the problem. So far they have replaced the intake gasket, fuel filter, EGR and PCV valves and have changed the PFE sensor and connecting lines. It seems they are just throwing parts at the problem and haven't a clue what is wrong. There are no error codes in the computer.
So far I have spent around $1,500 on this problem and it is not any better from when I started and it might actually be a little worse. I seem to think the problem is in the fuel system and not electrical because all lights and gauges function normally when the problem happens. I can also sometimes produce the hesitation by shifting the transmission into second gear while going around 50 mph then giving it a good bit of throttle after the engine revs. What could be going on.
Here's what I have 2000 F350 XLT 105000 miles and a 4R100 tranny, was coming home from work no issues, stopped at my mailbox to retrieve mail.
when applying brake, it lunged forward a bit and stalled, I started back up put in drive, stalled again. started back up put in reverse, no issues.
I put in neutral revved it somewhat and it moved forward enough to start the roll down the small slope at my drive, I then started in neutral again as was rolling and then put into drive and drove 1/2 mile down my lane to house. backed up in my parking spot, no problems then shifted to drive and stalled.
Today I dropped the pan and checked the filter as I have read that sometimes they will fall out and cause same symptoms, filter was where it was supposed to be, no easy cure here.
I own a 2007 Ford Taurus with about 108k miles on it. When I first start the car, the rpms stay very high (2000) or so for about25 seconds. Once I start the car, until it gets all the way warm, the rpms want to stick around 1300 until I'm stopped for a few seconds, then they jerk downwards hard to almost 400 and come up to around 700.
After the car gets warmed up, it no longer sticks when I brake, but then when I'm stopped it lurches shakes and jerks between 400 and 1000 rpms. Occasionally it will die ( maybe twice a week) but then starts right back up again. I have replaced:
Air compressor
Idle air control valve
Throttle body sensor
I replaced the throttle body sensor yesterday and it seemed to drive better but it only lasted for about 12 hours then the next time I started the car it's doing it again. The only solution I've found so far is that it jerks just a little less when I'm in neutral.
I am having a problem with my 03 1.8t 5 speed! about 1 month ago i had to replace my MAP sensor cuz it took a crap! ok everything was good after that i thought! car started stalling in first gear but didn't die completely! it would jerk me forward hard but wouldn't die! after first it would be fine! took it to my buddy at the dealer and said there was a code stored that dealt with the faulty sensor but wouldn't cause it to stall and then catch! of course he drove it and it didn't do it! so he cleared the code and everything been fine until today! started doing it again! don't have a clue as to what could be causing this! It didn't do this EVER before the MAP sensor only after! my buddy said the MAP sensor wouldn't cause it to do that anyway! it feels like the motor completely freezes up then frees itself! I do have a boost gauge and I am not over boosting or under boosting! no cel or blinking cel! what could be causing this?
View 7 RepliesI have a 06 camry as is said in the title, it has 120k miles, 20k of those are mine which i have treated it well in terms of fluids, changing oil at 2k and i changed my tranny fluid 10k ago along with the coolant. On a cold start (Its 5 degrees out for the high) it stays running but when put into drive it dies. My only idea is the transmission, because the reason i changed the tranny fluid is cause my transmission wouldn't shift into higher gears for a large bit of time i.e., getting stuck in third a lot.
View 3 RepliesMy car has 196,000 miles on it & recently starting loading up, stalling. May be heat related. How can I determine if it's the ECM, crank or cam position sensors? The last time it quit on me it scrolled thru "ABS out", "Trac out" & "Gear box failure". Let it sit a minute, restarted it, not a single thing shows up. I'm afraid to drive it as it appears to be getting worse. Our code reader is not giving us anything definitive to go on. Jaguar XJ8 2003....
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