Ford Excursion :: 2000 V10 - Smoke Coming Out Of Dash Along With Electrical Stink
Aug 23, 2017
Had this rig for 6 years, and I love it. Two weeks ago, wife was driving home and she and the kids saw smoke coming out of the dash, along with an electrical stink. Shortly after, she noticed the blinkers not working. While trying to diagnose, I have found that the radio, heated seats, headlights, rear AC, blinkers, front wipers, rear/mirror defrost do not work. On a test drive, the rig also has an odd idle, as if it is going to die, then catches up by revving... repeatedly. Sometimes throttle is unresponsive.
I started by replacing the battery. I cut back battery cables til there was no corrosion and reattached them. All fuses in the cabin and under the hood look good, and none of the relays (yes, I pulled them all) seem to have any damage, melting, etc. My battery to engine and frame grounds are good. I also tried spraying starter fluid around vacuum lines to see if that changed the idle -nope. The only code on the rig has been on for a couple months, both right and left banks lean.
I am not great at tracing down wiring, but I am starting on grounds, then will start on hots.
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In an attempt to bleed my drivers side caliper today I noticed clicking coming from the #2 relay switch under the dash. The clicking stopped once I pulled out the relay. I continued to bleed my caliper which I've been having issues doing so. It was kinda odd how I was able to bleed the caliper after pulling the relay. Is it possible that the [email protected] system could be causing issues with the pcm? 2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles .....
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I have an electrical odor coming from my vents. I always smell it when I start the vehicle. Other then that its not continuous just intermittent. I did have the passengers side front running board light short out and have since cut it off until its warmer to replace it. I wrapped it in electrical tape and stuck it back in the running board. I did have the odor when the fuse was burn out for the running board light. I replaced the pressure switch for the cruse control last year. I was thinking the blower might be going bad. What it may be?
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Tried to start my truck after sitting for 2 days in sub zero weather. wouldn't crank. pulled the batteries and charged them over night. Tried to start it the next day-wouldn't crank but the starter relay clicked. Was going to pull the starter and check it but decided to replace the relay first. replaced it and tried to start but now have no power to the cab-nothing comes on. I've checked the batteries with a load tester and they are ok. I've checked the fuses and they seem to be ok. when I tried to start it and the relay clicked there was a loud buzzing noise that seemed to be coming from under the dash. it has done this before but this time was louder than usual. I live out in the sticks so taking it somewhere is a last resort. It is a 1999 7.3 with 290000 miles.
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I have a 1985 Silverado where a mouse must have chewed through the main electrical wire that goes from the battery to the starter. Without knowing this, I tried to start the truck, it turned over a couple times, then a burnt electrical smell and smoke was coming from under the hood.
I replaced the wire and the starter. Now I have all electronics restored but when I turn the key, nothing happens. The lights don't dim and it doesn't even click. If I arc the solenoid on the starter, it turns over and runs just fine.
I have checked all the fuses and relays under the dash. Those don't appear burnt out and I've tried swapping relays and that doesn't work either.
Is there anything else that could have shorted out? Are there other fuses or relays that I'm missing? Or is there something with the ignition that could be causing it?
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I have a 2000 Ford F250 lariat 7.3 .... This vehicle has an aftermarket double din stereo pillar gauges for Pyro meter and transmission temp and has also had a snowplow attached but since re moved since I purchased it. It also has H ID headlights, which are run by the passenger side headlight connection.
The problem I'm having is that whenever I turn on the parking lights it is blowing the number eight fuse under the hood. Which is giving me no dash lights running lights parking lights or taillights. Initially the fuse would last for a few minutes and then burn out. I should also add that the trailer wiring harness doesn't work either and the driver side headlight will work sporadically.
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I have a 2000 2wd with the 5.4 in it. I tow a travel trailer and loaded is 6500lbs. Today leaving the campground I had to climb an extremely steep hill as soon as you left the campground. No time to build speed. The old Ex made it, but I was definitely worried. The truck ran fine the rest of the 2 hours home. I went to back my camper into its spot to store, and smoke started coming out from under the hood. When I crawled under it, tranny fluid was leaking on the ground. A pretty steady drip. I let it cool down, added fluid and drove around. Didn't leak anymore. Did the tranny just get hot and had to burp? The drip was coming from where the tranny connects to the motor.
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Got a 2 wheel drive 2000 Excursion with approx. 215K miles with the 7.3L.
Slight shake in motor + you can literally floor the pedal and you'll move a little faster than a snail.
Does this sound like bad injectors? Also - tried to start it today and it was just cranking forever...Couldn't get it to start..I did notice while I was in drivers seat looking out the window...some white smoke coming from tail pipe while it was cranking...
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I have a 2000 7.3 with about 114,000 miles. I just had my water pump, thermostat and belt replaced about a week ago. I've been driving the truck since and everything feels normal. This morning I drove the truck to work and parked it for about 10 hours. Got in it after work and everything started up fine. I noticed the brake light on the dash was lit up which I thought was odd because I never use the E brake. E brake wasn't on and I stepped on the brake pedal and it felt like I had no brakes. I turned the truck off and didn't try driving it, I didn't want to risk anything if I didn't have brakes.
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I have a 2000 7.3 f450 having some electrical issues. When you turn the key on sometimes the dash will start ticking and left side light flashing...engine will turn over but it won't start. The ticking is coming from under the hood relay 32 (you can hear and feel it clicking). Book says its injector driver module power relay. A lot of the times it will start fine other times it will be running and just die (prob because of this issue) happened once when I was driving.
What to check here already replaced the relay still have the problem.
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A little background info...up until about 6 months ago my 01 Ex V10 was a grocery getter for the wife; only got a few thousand miles a year for the most part. Since we moved from Washington state to Texas it has turned into my daily driver (after a 2500 mile drive towing 8k trailer).
A couple of weeks ago we were running errands and after we got home there was smoke coming from under the hood, but I couldn't pin point it. I let it be because I figure it would let me know when something was really wrong. A few days later it did it again but this time I found the problem; transmission fluid was leaking out of the bell housing onto the y-pipe. I did my research and come to find out it is most likely the front pump seal that got soft from overheating. So my buddy and I drop the transmission and replace the seal. Put it all back together and everything seems great.
Another week goes by and we have driven the Ex fairly extensively around town and even took a couple short day trips and everything is great. Then as we are turning onto an on ramp to get on the highway I give it gas to speed up and all of a sudden the RPMs climb like it dropped into neutral. I had enough momentum that I got over onto the shoulder and started to check thing under the hood. Looked like I was low on trans fluid; ok so I added a quart. Put it in "D" and still nothing. Then I try "1", "2", "R" and they all work fine.
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I have a 2004 Excursion with a 6.0 Bought the truck already studded, EGR deleted, and a 54V FICM. When I bought the truck it had a hot stall, no restart problem. Found the high pressure oil leaks and resealed them by replacing the #3 injector and replacing the top injector seal in the #4 .Oil pressure reads very good now and I drove the truck for a couple weeks problem free.
Truck started smoking (white to gray) and felt like it had a miss. No misfire or contribution codes. Truck failed the bubble test and I narrowed the leak down to the passenger side by removing the banjo bolt
Banjo bolt at the front of the passenger head
Found the #3 injector loose...the copper washer
Copper washer had disintegrated/melted and appeared to be stuck to the side of the injector. Scraped off easily enough, cleaned up the injector and injector cup and reinstalled the injector with new O-rings and copper washer.
Put the truck back together and still smoked the same and still felt like it had a miss. Ran KOER test and found sometimes a contribution code for #2 and sometimes #6 .
Drove the truck to work and it didn't feel down on power...mostly just smoked and rough idle...but on the way home there was a lack of power and just as I pulled into my driveway the truck stalled...wouldn't restart. FICM voltage was good, high pressure oil read over 900, IPR was holding around 40%.
Pulled the secondary fuel cap
Secondary fuel cap to run another bubble test...there was no fuel in it...completely empty. Started to think that I had a fuel feed problem. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge
Fuel pressure gauge and drove the truck again...pressure wasn't great (45 lbs) but never dropped below 42...not even when it stalled. Pulled the cap again...dry again...yet the truck read fuel pressure.
Research showed that I was possibly pressurizing the fuel system with combustion pressure and that was possibly displacing the fuel from the fuel system. This would explain the run for a few minutes, then stall and no restart for a few minutes...I'm assuming that the pressure would bleed off and the fuel pump would start over.
Still failing the bubble test and still pointing to the passenger side. I pulled and recleaned the injector and cup...new orings
oRings and copper washer. Bubble test again...fail.
Pulled glow plug from #3 , failed bubble test still.
Pulled glow plug from #1 , failed.
Pulled #5 , failed...pulled #7 ...failed.
With no glow plugs in the passenger head I am still bubbling up to the fuel filter housing. Pulled the banjo bolt from the front of the drivers side head...no more bubbles.
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Have a 2000 excursion V10. Cruise wasn't working when I bought it. There are no lights on the dash that come on and I changed the switch on master cylinder. What to do. Fuses are good
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I was told that their is an AC control module in the dash. As I have a 2000 that we are still getting parts, where in the dash this control module is?
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i have a 1991 silverado k2500 with the 454 big-block in it as i was driving home yesterday getting on the high way the truck just died completely without warning i looked down because i smelled something like burning wires and there was allot of smoke coming from under the dash where the steering column is when i go to start it all it dose is crank and crank never fires up it has no spark at all ?
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Yet again my honda is doing some new. My mid dash lights don't come on at all anymore (even when i start the car), my power drive and winter drive buttons don't work, I can't stop/start on a hill, I have to get 2rpms going to get anywhere, and my battery volts are over 12 when driving.
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I didn't notice anything until I was towing yesterday and tried to pass a car to get onto the offramp.
Anyway, I went to floor it so I could get around and, in my mirror, I could see a decent bit of grey smoke coming out. What could it be?
It doesn't smoke at all on startup and runs smooth right away.
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My truck is a 2000 7.3 doesn't smoke on start up but once it gets to temperature it does. I'm not going through any antifreeze, just oil and it's coming out the exhaust. The truck still runs great starts right up every morning without being plugged in. Any opinions?
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I have a 2004 prius with about 350k miles on it, bought it about a year ago and we have had our first trouble with it (it's been great so far, and when you consider it's mileage, pretty impressive).
We were driving along and a constant alarm started (beeeeep!!!) and lights on the dash lit up. I assumed it was cranky because the rear hatch wasn't closed or something and kept driving (we didn't have far to go). It wasn't long before smoke with a distinctive burnt electronics smell started coming up from the dash at the front left lower corner of the windshield. Then the brakes started to feel very unresponsive and sluggish (no regenerative braking either). She still runs and drives. So here is where I am now:
The car screams constantly and the brake light, ABS light and the (!) light are all lit.
I've been poking about and figured out that my inverter coolant pump isn't working properly. At this point I am wondering if this is just pure coincidence though (i.e. perhaps its not been working for awhile). I will be replacing this soon.
I checked the error codes and they all seemed to be un-related and or old (catalytic converter not working properly, ran out of fuel, etc). I cleared them and no new ones are populating. (car has only been driven around the block 3 times though)
The 12 V battery seems to be working fine, and it's getting the proper charging voltage. (voltage tested through the console under various conditions)
I have reset the braking system (bridging the #4 and #13 pins thing) and this turned the buzzer and lights off for about 20 seconds. Still no proper brakes. And of course the noise and lights just come back. Still no error codes via my Bluetooth reader and smartphone.
I have my doubts that replacing the inverter pump will fix this brake issue. I am familiar with working on cars, but this is my first foray with 1) a modern car and 2) a Prius. (Previous cars are all mid 90s or older, so I'm a little bit overwhelmed here...)
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i have a 2000 ex,6.8 4x4.every now and then the dome light stays on.theres also a problem where theres a buzzing sound coming under dash while driving and makes the dome light flicker.these are seprate problems.lol.when the buzzing sound is present ,it stops when i open the door,running or not.but starts up again when i close it,even happens occasionaly when ignition is off and no key in ignition.electrical problems are my worst night mare!!!!!!!! My battery is dead in the morning when this is happening .oh yea,and the o.d.light flashes occasionaly as well.im totally lost.
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My excursion has come out of park a few times. Not good at the boat ramp.....
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