Ford Excursion :: 2000 V10 - RPM Fluctuating Down At Idle Once In A While
May 10, 2012
My 2000 V10 is throwing some codes. The truck drives great, the only thing I notice is the rpm fluctuating down at idle once in a while. It doesn't stall, just not smooth. Here is the log from my torque app that I saved yesterday while driving: Where should I start ? Clean the MAF first ? oxygen sensors ?
Current Fault Log
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P0136: O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0175: System too Rich (Bank 2)
Pending Fault Log
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P0153: O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
Historic Fault Log
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ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
------------------------------<wbr>----------------------
ECU reports no other fault codes logged
End of report.
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Speedometer Going Crazy. 2002 Excursion, 5.4, Auto Transmission, 246800 miles. Put key in ignition and immediately noticed no odometer display. Put it in drive, Odometer began to register but SPEEDOMETER fluctuated wildly. Reading the posts as best as I could, I replaced the VSS sensor on Rear Diff, and no change in symptoms. I don't want to replace sensors just to replace them.
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So any ICP sensor been proven bad but i was not leaking oil? The symptoms of my truck sound similar to a bad ICP...fluctuating idle, surging, stalling, but it does run and start. IT tends to start acting up when it hits operating temp.
I have an 04 and the ICP sensor is in the easy spot to get to on the valve cover vs under the turbo (that's awesome) so its an easy swap. but just wondering if there is any way to test it over simply swapping it. I do not have a monitor yet but a dongle is on order and will get the torque app for my tablet.
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OK, Got this 2000 Excursion with 6.8. Recently, it just won't hardly idle, the code says MAF, but it ain't cause I bought a new one.
The Idle is like this: with MAF plugged in It starts and the rpms shoot up to appx 1200 for about 3 or 4 seconds, then it goes down to a point where you think it is going to stall, BUT at the last second it goes back up to 1200 rpm. It will usually do this for 5 or 6 times, but eventually it does stall.
If MAF is NOT Plugged IN it will start and idle perfectly, but the moment you push the Gas it will barely run at all.
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I have a 2000 excursion V10. It will die in gear forward or reverse the overdrive light flashes and cel shows code p0720. I have new plugs and COP on all 10 cylinders. I have replaced the differential speed sensor and the sensor on top of the transmission. I have a basic code reader it shows at the time it dies the vehicle speed is 70 mph while the speedometer shows 0. When I unhook the abs module it still has code p0720 but it does not die. I am replacing the abs module?
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I purchased a 2000 4X4 V10 with 63,000 miles. It sat with very little movement for 12 years or so. I have been driving it for a few months and it now has 73,000 on it.
To my question. I have an high idle after start up. After the engine starts the idle goes up to 2K but comes back down to normal(1K or so). It takes a second or to 2 for the idle to drop. This seems strange to me. Is this normal? I've done some searching and found plenty on high idles but none seem to fit this condition.
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This is for a friends gasser V-10. It has a new fuel pump and oil change. Wont idle or stay running?
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I have a 2000 X V10 and am having an intermittent high idle condition. I have searched the forums and found some useful info but nothing that addresses this issue. Here's what I've done. New IAC, found PCV valve hose leaking-replaced also new valve, found another vacuum leak-repaired, tested TPS and that was fine according to the specs I found. So here's my problem-upon starting engine occasionally "stumbles" then roars to life idles 8-1100rpm. Drives well till stopping at an intersection and idles 1100-1200 rpm.(lots of brake) Can pull into parking spot place in park and will idle up 1500-1800 rpm and then only drop to 1200 or so. I have checked everything I know. ALL these idle conditions are INTERMITTENT. (and yes I did check for codes "0" ) There is no loss of power.
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I'm trying to find out what I need to check or replace to get my 2000 Excursion to idle at normal rpm's in park and neutral.
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I noticed last night while I was driving the idle speeds were fluctuating, it idled around 600-700 rpm, then would bump up to 850-900 rpms, then dip down to 500 rpms and then back up... the whole car would kinda shudder a little bit... I don't know if this is related but I had the engine running at idle for about 2 hours before driving it, and I observed the strange idle behavior after it had been running that long. My car also stalled twice... once while sitting idle and the other while I was in traffic (bumper-to-bumper, barely moving).
When normal driving, the car is great, just like it used to be, but at idle it exhibits this odd behavior. Does it have something to do with my engine running at idle for so long? Is this a problem I should be concerned with? And lastly...do I have to bring it in for another repair and possibly be without it for more days?
One other thing I ought to mention... I had just put gas in, 93 octane from Sunoco (this particular location I hadn't visited before, but i don't think thats the case) - could it just be bad gasoline? Or maybe could the shop I had left it with have put regular gas in while they had it...
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I recently bought a 00 Excursion v10 2wd everything looked right no major problems. I noticed it has a rough idle and i thought it could be the EGR i went under the hood and there's no EGR in sight. I plugged the OBD reader to see if it would give any codes since the there was no check engine light on and wanted wanted to make sure it worked, It showed a P0304 code its Cyl4 misfire i checked plugs/coils and i noticed there's a little insert inside Cyl4 plugs hole in the head that it has the plug screwed on. I decided to change all the plugs and the coils and i still have the rough idle and code i can hear a ticking noise around the engine in the passenger side.
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I have a 98 honda civic ex with the d16y8, have replaced the map sensor and iacv and still have a fluctuating idle only when car is warm or at operating temperature. it has dc sports racing headers into a straight pipe then exhaust tip. does not have any o2 seniors on it(wasn't my choice was like that when i got it) will idle up and down between 1700 and 2200 rpm also after replacing iacv the car jerk when going at low speeds or letting off then getting back on accelerator.
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I've been noticing that my 15 RCF idles a bit weird. Regardless if AC is on or not, the idle seems to always be fluctuating a couple hundred rpms - almost barely noticeable. Usually 500-700rpm back and forth. Doesn't really bother me but I wonder if it's just my car or if all the RCF has the same issue and if it was a sign of a bigger issue.
Doesn't matter which mode I'm in either. Of course it's only noticeable when there is the actual needle stick on the RPM gauge (eco mode and the gauge with the yellow doesn't show well).
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I sometimes have a weird idle. When my car is cold the idle is fine. When the car is warm the idle is fine. The idle only gets weird sometimes when I drive the car, park it for an hour or so, start the car again (temp gauge is about half way from complete cold start to complete warmed up) and I get a fluctuating rpm tach. It bounces around 50-75 rpms for a while. You can definitely feel it in the car and if you stand behind the exhaust you can here it slightly burp/hiccup. The car has 16k miles on it and it's a 2015. The gas mileage and performance has not changed. I don't know if it has done this since day one as I usually have my radio on. I heard it once now I make a point to see if it does it. I also don't have any CEL on.
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I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee L6 4.0 Liter automatic with 223,000 miles.
The oil pressure usually runs around 1/8-1/4 when driving around town and now I am getting temperature spikes. I had the coolant and water pump replaced last fall when I was having similar idling issues then. My coolant isn't a perfect green color--it is a little bit grey, but it is full. I cleaned the entire throttle body last January, cleaned the IAC today, and redid the NSS this week (not that this probably matters, just being thorough in my explanation).
It seems to happen worst on hot days (of course) when idling in traffic for a few minutes and makes the air conditioned air run warmer than it should.
Is this a busted radiator? The mechanic said I did not have a leak when I had him check last week.
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Ok so I have I 2007 hyundai accent with a weird problem. When the car is in normal operating temperature (180-210) and stopped at a stoplight or stop sign the car will have a fluctuating idle. This problem only happens when the car is at idle and with the heat or air conditioning on. With the heat and the air condition off the car will do it once in a great while. Things I have done so far. Replace the pcv valve clean the egr. To me it sounds like a voltage problem like the car is having too much load at idle. But I am unsure. Took it to a mechanic the other day and he couldn't replicate the problem.
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I recently had some issues getting my 2000 Blazer LS started. It would act as though the battery was dying. But if I let it set a few moments, it would start right up. Then a couple days later, I needed a jump start to get it going. I took it to my local Auto Zone to have the alternator tested because the battery was only 3 years old. (It was a 5 year battery.)
They determined that it was the battery. So I went to Walmart and bought a 700 CCA battery. And today the gauge is fluctuating again.... Considering it is cold and snowing here, heat, wipers, and rear defrost tend to be essential. But if I try to run all of them, the gauge dumps. And causes everything to bog down. I do not have any aftermarket electronics installed in the truck. And until last Thursday, this was not an issue.
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So I recently bought a 2010 Chevy Silverado LTZ with 31,000 miles (5.3l engine). After having the truck a few days, I have noticed a couple of problems ...
1) I have noticed there is a rough idle in the passenger seat while the truck is in drive. Once the truck is started and driven about 5 minutes, once you come to a complete stop in drive (ex. stop light) a rough idle over takes the truck. You can feel this idle a lot more in the passenger seat than in the driver seat. The RPM gauge also fluctuates during the rattle.
2) At night my the headlights flicker randomly, on and off very quickly.
3) In the morning when I start the truck and drive it a bit, I hear a rattle which sounds like it is coming from the front right of the truck. Bumps do not trigger this rattle, which usually only lasts a couple seconds. I usually hear the rattle between 1,000 and 1,200 rpms.
I have taken the truck into the shop 2 times to get these items fixed, and they said they cannot feel a rough idle.
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So today we were driving back home and the oil gauge start fluctuating rapidly. However it would only fluctuate when the engine speed was slow, like when you are at an idle in gear. Once I gave it some throttle the needle came back to normal. Also while making a turn the needle stayed steady as well, which made me think that it isn't a low level situation,(plus I did verify the oil level once I came to a stop).
I keep reading about oil pressure sending units going bad. I just so happen to an extra aftermarket sending unit and gauge from summit racing laying around, so I'll hook that up tomorrow and see about what the pressure actually is at idle. I hope that it is just a small problem. Whats the pressure supposed to be for the 4.0 OHV at idle anyway.
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I have a 1999 Ford Explorer Sport. In the past month, I have experienced on a number of occasions a sudden fluctuation in the speedometer. At the same time, the ABS light will come on and the engine becomes loaded. This will last for a second and then return to normal. The interval between occurrences is not fixed or repeatable but often occurs when traveling at a higher speed (65-70 mph) on the interstate. The first garage said it might be the idle valve so we had it replaced but the problem appeared again a few days later. We just recently took it to a Ford dealership that said it might be the rear wheel ABS sensor so we had this replaced. Once again the problem reappeared a few days later.
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What could be causing my turbo to be fluctuating while accelerating? I can definitely hear the difference in the sound of the air and today while towing my camper I could even see the dash gauge bouncing around some.
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