Ford Excursion :: 2000 V10 - Oil Light And Gauge Flickering From L To Normal Range
Mar 21, 2016
2000 v10 with 188400 miles. Everything runs great. No leaks. Oil pan gasket is weeping, but not dripping. Don't want to cross that bridge yet. Been towing a dual axle trailer with a little car on it quite a bit the last couple of months. Probably total 1,000 miles. Drove it up north which was a steep climb so it really had to work getting up the hills.
My question is, the oil light started flickering last night, and the gauge was also flickering from the L to normal range. It was jumping quite quickly. I put a quart of oil in it today, and the gauge never acted up again. So i think that ruled out the oil sending unit. The truck doesn't leak oil anywhere, at least according to the driveway. Maybe burning oil since I've been towing a lot? I checked the oil dipstick, but couldn't get a good reading. I can post pictures later.
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I have a 2000 Ford Excursion XLT 2WD with just over 155,000 miles on it, for awhile now My battery light has been on and off or it'll flicker and some times it will even stay solid. I checked the batteries and the alternator a while ago and got good readings from them. I just thought it was a code that never got reset. Well this morning I was driving it and I noticed that when I brought the RPMs over 3,000 the battery gauge would go up to 18 volts and the battery stayed on until the RPMs went back down past 3,000. It did this all morning until I got home and just for kicks I put it in park and revved the engine up to 3,000 RPMs, when I did nothing happened. I tried looking online for an answer and I called a few mechanic shops who all said it was my alternator. I want to make sure that it is in fact the alternator....
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Ok so here here goes I have a 1999 f250 super duty with 5.4 triton it seems to be over heating but the gage stays in the normal operating temperature range. I just changed the water pump. Could it be the thermostat and Would it hurt to remove the thermostat until I can get one...
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At idle temperature is above middle. Upper radiator hose, which is connected to the thermostat is hot. Lower radiator hose that feeds back to the engine is cold. Radiator fan will not stop running if the temp guage is at middle to needle above middle. When running the temperature reading is normal at 30 mi/hr (middle to just below middle). Temperature will also go down if at high rpm idle, about 2,500 RPM.
New thermostat replaced last week. Water pump replaced less than one year ago. Upper radiator and lower radiator hoses are pressurized when running and off.
I suspect the thermostat was installed incorrectly. Pressurized hoses mean excess air in the cooling circuit/system. If so, does it mean I have to bleed out the air? How do you bleed out the air on a cooling circuit of a car, I thought the reservoir tank already does that naturally? I think the normal range for the temp guage should be 1/3 of the whole range of the guage, right?
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Over the past weekend i noticed all the electronics having a slight "flicker", so I figured my alternator was on its way out. After replacing the alt with a reman, I still had the issue. Then, replaced it with a new new one and the issue still persists. I will be getting a meter to test later when my buddy gets off work. The gauge on the dash is running high and battery light is flickering. Is there something I am missing? I ran another ground to frame also.
2001 SCAB 5.4 144,000mi 4x4 ....
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I just got this f350 6.0l and I experienced an electrical problem with the trans gauge, started flicking a lil then go all the way up to over hit and check gauge light go on and my tow light starts blinking..
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I have a 2005 F 350 with a 6.0 Diesel! My heat quit on my wife and I the other night! I replaced some fuses and started the truck to make sure the heat was working and it was! So I thought while I am here I should replace some bulbs in the cluster that were out!
I took the cluster out, looked at the bulbs and they looked oK so I put them back in and put the dash back together! When I went to start the truck once I turned the switch on my gauges and lights started flickering on and off fast and all it will do is just click when I try to start it! I just had it running 15 minutes before this!
I went through all the fuses and if I take one of the relays out and turn the switch on all the lights and gauges seem to work right but when I try to start it, nothing! I replaced the relay and it starts flickering again! I had the relay checked at Napa and they said it was good! The relay was for the Powertrain module!
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Today was drive my x 2000 v10 limited 4x4 114k miles). It was 90 degrees Out and was driving in light traffic going 40 and noticed my temp gauge almost up to h then dropped fast. So shut the ac off and it continue to rise and drop fast I went few more miles to where I was going checked everything could see no problems it sat for about 30mins then left on my drive back home 36 miles and had ac on and no problems stayed where it normally is. I am thinking of just replacing the belt cause I never have. No weeping from water pump. Or any smell.
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2000 f350 interior buzzing noise opened the door went away, shut the door after a little while came back. Then notice the dome light flickering, took the dome light bulb out it completely stopped?
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I was wondering what is the normal range of trans temp in this truck? I was driving home last night and after a couple burst of wot , getting on the freeway, I checked the info display and it showed 200 degrees for Trans fluid. Truck was unloaded with 80 degree Temps.Also I guess how accurate is the dash Guage? does this seem like higher than normal Temps? 15 f350 cc sb 11 k miles ,gas motor. i aslo drove another couple miles coasting around and the temp never dropped past 196 .
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I know that average normal tranny temps for the new 6.7s are 200 degrees give or take which my truck does as well. but I'm wondering about how long is normal for the tranny temp to get up to that normal range? My truck can take anywhere from 20 minutes to almost an hour depending on if I'm on highway vs lower speed driving and it's been that way since I bought it. Am I worrying over nothing or my worries not just worries?
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Just put a side post battery with top post adapters on. I drive to town the battery light was flickering with every little bump finally it turned off. Got to the house car shut off tried to turn it on and nothing no click nothing. The dash lit up half way the radio flickered on and off constantly and and the ebrake light flashed with a beep. I'm at wits end. Just bought a tire and battery and filled the tank and now this happens. 2000 jetta 2.0 GL.....
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W12 2004 light vibration/struggling during light.
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I have a 2001 Excursion Limited V10. 146000 miles 2 wheel drive. I have had it about a year and this is my first winter to really have experience with her.
When the outside temperature is very cold and the engine is cold from sitting all night, at start up, the oil pressure gauge reads nothing and the oil pressure/temp idiot light is on. Only does this during the first very cold start up or after sitting and engine getting very cold again.
I can drive just a short distance (2 blocks) and both gauge and light go to normal and stay there for the rest of my drive. I am using a quality 5/20 oil and filter and the level is good. Warmer days it has never happened. Truck runs fine, smooth idle, no "limp mode". She has not had any recent work done. All the other dash gauges read fine.
There is something about really cold temperatures that have to be causing the issue , I think. ??
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I have been having an intermittent (2 times in the past 2000 miles) oil pressure gauge not reading. As I own a 6.0L I understand that this is just a pressure switch in reality and if the engine was starved of oil the HPOP system would kill the engine. The first time the oil gauge went out it was raining out. The second time was after going through a carwash and getting the underbody wash. At this time my battery light also came on for a few seconds.
Both problems seemed to go away after an engine restart. Today it is snowing lightly and my battery light came on again. I happened to be monitoring the battery voltage and FICM voltage via OBD II using Torque app. At no time while the battery light was on today did the battery voltage drop below 13.5V. The FICM was also stable at 48.5+/-.5V.
As the battery voltage read by the PCM is not actually dropping and the previous oil pressure gauge and the fact that my left blinker indicator is out I am thinking I may have electrical issues with the gauge cluster. I have never had these issues while driving in dry weather. Where do I start troubleshooting this? Also I am going out of town for the next two weeks and my girlfriend was going to use the vehicle. Is it OK for her to drive?
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So just bought an 2001 Excursion XLT 3 days ago! Truck only has 43k. The motor is 6.8 V10. So driving home the other night I noticed all the lights inside and out are flickering!! No battery light at This time. So here's what I did so far had the battery and alternator tested and everything passed. I've read some forums and heard the alternator may pass and still could be the issue... so bought a new one well even with the new one no luck. BUT if I unplug the alternator while running the lights no longer flicker.
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Today while the drivers door was open the interior lights started flickering and then all interior lights went off. Looked at the manual and do not see interior light fuse or relay. Also while looking at the manual, the lights flickered a few times and I could hear clicking behind the steering column. They lights never came back on. The interior "roller" switch is in the correct position, its also does not turn on the interior lights. I have also lubricated all the latches. What can I check or do to troubleshoot?
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Noticed a slight flickering of my guage lights recently. All other lights in the car as well as all screened displays are stable and do not fluctuate. I've raised and lowered the instrument dimmer control which functions as it should to no avail. Voltage of left battery is to spec so I assume the alternators output is OK.
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99 passat with 160,000 miles. I am having a issue with my instrument cluster panel. RPM gauge keeps flickering and when i brake it drops all the way to zero. Also when i brake the oil light starts flashing. I had it in a shop and the guy said the oil was fine and that he though the cluster panel was bad. I got a new cluster panel and still same thing happens.
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My 2000 300M has 135k miles on her. With the a/c on when I come up to a traffic light and stop, it feels like i have to press harder then normal to keep the car stopped at the light. the other night at a light I put the car in nuetrel and the engine rpm went from 700 rpm to 1500 and up to 2000 rpm. There is no check engine light at this time. the car does not to this when the a/c is off. I have not scanned the car yet.
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Twice in the last year my 1999 Ranger (@138,000 miles) has started running very loudly: I checked dash and see oil pressure gauge says no oil pressure. First time this happened, I pulled over, had it towed. At garage they start it up: gauge normal, they check oil says its OK. I take it to the dealership, they replace sending unit, but can't explain why it was running loudly. Today same thing happens: I checked oil pressure gauge, it's OK. After an hour, starts running loudly, gauge in red. Park car for 15 - 20 minutes, start it up: all is well: gauge OK, running quietly. This is amy 'spare' car, so it only gets driven 1 -2 times per month, short distances.
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