My 2000 v10 w/194K has developed an intermittent shake when braking. Severity from mild to severe. Had the problem earlier, suspected the rotors - replaced front rotors and pads with EB slotted rotors and Yellow Stuff pads. It was fine for a couple of months, now its back. Replaced the slide pins last night (they were in good shape, replaced anyway). Where to look next?
View 14 RepliesSo I just bought a 2004 Ex 4x4 4wd with only 50k from a dealer. While test driving the truck would shake/shudder when braking at 50-70 getting worse if you were going faster, as a condition of the sale they said they would look into it. They did and said it was the tires?? They balanced and rotated and did and alignment. Are they correct? the tires are BFG AT 33x12.5x16.5 on aftermarket rims.
View 11 RepliesWhen I bought my X, the front end would periodically shake and pull to the right.
I recently redid the front brakes on my X. Replaced everything except the rotors; they looked okay. That fixed it pulling to the right and fixed the shaking somewhat, but it still shakes when I apply the brakes.
I don't feel it through the pedals. It's all up front, too. You can see the steering wheel shaking really bad.
What I'm thinking is maybe it's my tie rod ends? I think my front brakes were locking up and causing the shake to happen all the time. I think when I fixed that, it made it to where the shake only happens under braking. This makes me think it's the tie rod ends, or something else loose up there. I recently replaced the ball joints, too.
Or could it be the rear rotors? I just want to make sure I'm close before I start throwing parts at it!
My X has started shuttering in overdrive this morning. I have taking it out of overdrive and seems to go away , maybe a slight notice.....
It did shutter one time at about 2000 rpm while power braking.... but cant get it to do that every time.... possible coil...???
A friend of mine has a '93 Explorer 4x4 with an automatic. He's getting an intermittent shake at highway speeds. It shows up every 5-10 minutes or so. Apparently the problem has been going on for a few months now. I took it for a test drive the other day, and it feels similar to driving on rumble strips. It shakes in both 2wd and 4wd, but he says it seems worse in 4wd. The vibration feels more like it's coming through the seat than the steering wheel. The vibration will go away if you take the foot off of the accelerator, or if you pull it down into Drive. He's got about 220K miles on it. The previous owner said the transmission was rebuilt about 30K miles ago, but who knows. He's had it in the shop for a couple of days, and they've checked the usual suspects - u-joints, ball joints, and the sort.
View 6 RepliesMy gf's best friend has a 2007 Camry 2.4L sedan. Automatic trans if it matters. Has a really bad shake/thump when braking so I'm thinking it has warped rotors. She had brakes done by "some place" a year or so ago and I think they may have over tightened the lug nuts or something. She's also hard on brakes...and cars in general.
Ordered the Powerstop rotors and pads kit from RockAuto (non-performance setup, ceramic pads and regular rotors) and will be working on it soon.
Any link to the service manual or a place where I can get information on doing a brake job?
First issue I noticed was the brake pedal/steering vibrating - my assumption was "warped" rotors (I use warped in quotations so that this does not turn into a discussion on whether or not rotors can warp.) I checked the front and the rotors and pads seem fairly new, the back pads were pretty much gone so I replaced those. Reduced the problem somewhat. Yes I still need to do the rotors but would rear rotors that are warped cause that much shaking?
Next issue I had noticed was that for a while that the car would shake somewhat when accelerating usually going up hills or when the car is under strain. Then I noticed that when I had the car fully loaded with passengers it would shake fairly noticeably when accelerating every time.
I thought the problem may be worn plugs since it seemed to come from the engine, well after 2 days and many hours of work not the problem.
By the way I bought the car only a few months ago and have very few service records so not too sure what has or has not been done. The lady did keep up with the maintenance though.
I got a 2006 Solara SLE. while braking from highway speeds, the steering wheel shakes VIOLENTLY. city driving its not noticable. cruising the car is silky smooth. The one front caliper was sticking and i replaced pads, pins, rotor. Still shakes. i tried swapping pins as one pin has a sleeve at the tip and i didnt remember which one went where. i did notice the pin with no sleeve fits loosely. the rotor is AZ Duralast brand. the car has 200k trouble free with no suspension work ever done.
I am lost what to do and need to make a long trip coming up. I was going to try in order- replace other rotor, spin the one rotor and replace guide pin with a sleeved one, then do lateral run out test/lathe, alignment, then if that dosnt work a stick of dynamite. Iheard a bad tie rod or ball joint can cause this, i find it unlikely as it would probably shake all the time. Other small issue is a loud thunk in the rear when it hits bumps. Rear swaybar mounts?
Bought an Ex last year with 200k miles on it. Started having issues this summer. First off, it will shake when pushing on the gas. If I let off the vibrating stops. Secondly, if I tromp on it, the speedometer drops for a second then comes back up and the "ABS" light comes on for that split second too. Thirdly, it will randomly die on me. This morning dropping off the kids at school, it died 3 times while backing up. Starts right up, but will just kill, no sputtering.
The Check engine was on, so I took it into Advance for a reading. Computer said there was an issue at the rear output sensor. So, I replaced the Speed Sensor on the rear differential last night. Take it for a test drive, and the check engine light is still on, but the Overdrive light on the shifter is flashing randomly.
Now, I assume the shaking and dying is Fuel related. I am ruling out the spark plugs as it idles fine (maybe I'm wrong). I purchased a fuel filter to replace that and hopefully it works.
If the front rotors are warped would I not feel it when braking anytime and not just braking hard at high speed?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Excursion with multiple transmission symptoms, so here goes.
The problem doesn't occur until after the vehicle has been driven approximately 100 miles as far as I can tell. At that point, I'll start to notice smoke coming from underneath the vehicle caused by the transmission leaking fluid onto the exhaust from the front of the transmission. At lower speeds, and while idling, the transmission will shake and shudder. It's not noisy or that extreme, but definitely noticeable.
I've also noticed on occasion there is a loss of power at higher speeds when the vehicle is in 4th or 5th gear. This mostly happens when trying to accelerate to pass on the highway. The transmission sounds like it downshifts, but the hard I push the gas pedal, the less power I have. If I push down far enough, the RPM's begin to drop. I've noticed that after I let the vehicle sit turned off for a couple of hours, it begins to work properly again, but it only lasts until the transmission is hot again.
VWVortex, so I've had some issues with my MK4 recently (go figure). It started with steering wheel getting intermittent and random jerks to the right after driving for about 20 minutes on the highway at any speed any gear but only at around 1/6 throttle. I needed to do front end maintenance anyway, so I replaced both complete LCA's with ECS Tuning's ply ones, went stage 2 BFI engine mounts, stage 2 BFI dogbone mount, both ball joints, both tie rods ends, both axles, and an alignment.
Now I'm getting a shimmy in the steering wheel starting at ~80mph. I know my wheels are slightly bent and are being replaced in the summer when the weather is warmer, but it wasn't doing this same shimmy prior to all this. Just the jerking. Could it be they messed up on the alignment? Its really getting on my nerves considering I've dumped a lot of money trying to fix this problem just to have something else pop up.
I just had vehicle inspected and replaced the wheel hub assemblies on the front Left and Right wheels in order to pass. Now while driving strong shaking occurs occasionally when over 60+ mph or at any time after a hit a bump in the road. have to slow down below 30 for it to stop.
View 6 RepliesJust as the title says I'm getting a good pull to the right when braking. Little background, truck has 155k, rotors and pads replaced 10 days ago, new tires today. Now with the new tires the pull is more pronounced than with the old tires but has been there, which I thought was just worn out rubber, apparently not.
All caliper pins are greased and moving freely, and for kicks I replaced left pins to see if some how they were fouling up, they weren't, still pulling. So my question after searching is maybe the last two culprits are bad caliper or bad hose? I just wanted to bounce this off the board and see if I am on the right track to fix this issue.
My 2001 Honda CR-V seems to seize up randomly. I can be driving on the highway and suddenly the car will not go over 40mph. If I keep driving, the car will return to normal after a couple of minutes. I first thought it was not changing into 4th gear, but the transmission guy said no. Took it to a Honda specialist who said it was the transmisssion. Took it back to the transmission guy who again said it's not the transmission and guessed it was brakes. A shop replaced the calipers and hoses. The fix worked 6 months. When the grabbing started again I would pull over and pump the brakes, which would release the grabbing. I took it back to the brake guy who replaced the master cylinder. Now the brakes scrape and gurgle. From outside the car they squeak. this feels like its in the front. There are no codes suggesting the ABS system is faulty, but I don't understand what signals would cause intermittent braking. I'm not confident the master cylinder is the solution.
View 10 RepliesMy 2002 Ex 4x4 developed a shudder during breaking. Today while trying to jack it up and put on jack stands. My 2 3/4 ton jack was too weak/short to lift it up to put on stands. I am using 6 ton stands just to lift the front.
So have to get new jack. Keep in mind I don't have a ton of cash for new jack. What size are you all using to get your ex up on stands?
When my truck is parked, I go to the rear tire and shake it back and forth and hear a slight clunking noise from either the tire or rear end. Its like the axle is making the noise?
2000 7.3 Power Strke Super Crew 4x4
I think I have a stuck/sticky caliper. I am getting some squealing while under way after braking. It will fade away after a little while, but it it's bad enough where a friend left a message saying he could hear me coming...
I am also getting a shudder when braking at certain speeds (from @ 20-30 mph).
I replaced my front rotors @ 40k miles/4 yrs ago w/ PowerSlot Cryo's & Hawks LTS pads on all 4 wheels. I greased the pins at the time on the original calipers ('04 4wd 6.0 X w/ 105k miles now). The brakes have been great since, but the squealing/shudder started this spring.
Is it likely I need to replace the whole caliper, or can I get away with a pin kit? I want to order all the parts and be ready to do a weekend job.
Could the shudder be from the caliper, or is it likely i need to turn the front rotors? I'm planning to put new rear rotors on & new Hawk LTS pads all around again at the same time as dealing with the caliper. What rear rotors &/or calipers to get? I'd like to spend a bit less on the rear rotors vs the Powerslots.
If I brake hard a dozen times, 8 or 9 will be normal, a couple times it will pull to the right but as long as your hands are on the wheel you can barely tell, and maybe once it will pull really hard. I have Hawk super duty pads and Ebc rotors with less than 5k on them and I just replaced the front calipers and hardware because I thought that was the problem.
It's not even consistent. Could possibly be rear calipers (rear also has new Hawk pads and Ebc rotors with less than 3k on them) but I don't think it would pull that hard. Tire pressure is even between sides btw.
We have the 6.8 4x4 2001. Mostly use it for towing 6K #. Bought 2 years ago. Front and rear brakes were new and all 4 rotors were machined at Ford dealership prior to purchase. Have put on 13,000 miles since then, majority towing.
View 14 RepliesI'm noticing some odd behavior from my Brand New (50 miles) Chevy Sonic. When I get to about 40-45 mph steady, the car seems to apply a small amount of braking every few seconds. The effect is strong enough that my head bobs forward somewhat.
On a long drive, I could see it getting VERY annoying. It really "feels' like braking and not like engine sluggishness, but I"m not 100% sure. I was thinking traction control. I'm going to the shop next week but would be nice to be pre-loaded with some ideas, maybe even some things I could look into myself.