Ford Excursion :: 2000 V10 - Brakes Are Not Cutting
May 1, 2017
I have a 2000 Ex V10 4x4 that I use as a daily driver and also haul with it(4 horse trailer loaded). The brakes are not cutting it, they suck. The rotors have been turned 3x in a year and it is due for pads and I am sure rotors now.
I want to upgrade so that I don't continue to keep having this amount of problems. Sadly the beast gets abused with 3 teen drivers at the moment, so I am pretty sure that is contributing to the eating of brakes.
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My 2000 excursion (94K) front end shimmies when I put on the brakes...could my rotors be warped...or is there something worn in the front end?
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I have a 2000 7.3 with about 114,000 miles. I just had my water pump, thermostat and belt replaced about a week ago. I've been driving the truck since and everything feels normal. This morning I drove the truck to work and parked it for about 10 hours. Got in it after work and everything started up fine. I noticed the brake light on the dash was lit up which I thought was odd because I never use the E brake. E brake wasn't on and I stepped on the brake pedal and it felt like I had no brakes. I turned the truck off and didn't try driving it, I didn't want to risk anything if I didn't have brakes.
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2000 Excursion V10 4x4. I'm getting a popping noise coming from the rear end when I apply the brakes and come to a complete stop and when I release the brakes to take off. It only happens the moment it comes to a complete stop and the moment it takes off. Not when I'm putting it in forward or reverse or accelerating or decelerating. U joints are fine. I was laying under the truck poking around the other day and when I roll it back and forth in park the few inches it'll go, when it comes to the end of it's travel the axle wraps a little and it seems like the transfer case output shaft flange is moving in and out of the transfer case and causing the noise. I'm assuming there is a snap ring holding the output bearing in place. I didn't have time to drop the driveshaft but am planning on it this weekend to see if it still does it when I roll it and to inspect the transfer case. I need to check to make sure the driveshaft splines are not seized up but they seem to have a little free play to them.
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Rear steel brake line ruptured the other day (was pretty rusty). Despite being an idiot in regards to automotive repair (among many other things), I decided to give it a shot. I was able to get the damaged section off, went to Autozone with the broken piece, they matched it up, were nice enough to cut it and put on one larger fitting (because the two were different sizes) and flare it for me.
I was able to get the one side (at the T fitting) on OK. That was the "new" side, the one they flared at Autozone. Looks good. No leaks.
The stock side, at the passenger side caliper, leaks like crazy. Not out the threads, but out the hole through which the line passes. Know what I mean?
I'm having a hard time figuring out what's happening, because I'm not sure how this thing works. Does the line fit flush to something inside the connection at the caliper? Is it a bad flare?
It did not go in easy, but the new one was just as much trouble as the fitting that came out (stock?), so it must be right.
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Today I was backing my ex up in my yard(down hill) and it acted like it was going to cut off. So put it in drive and it would not go,so I thought low in fluid. So I checked it, it was fine. So I tried it in drive down the hill and its fine. So confused as I was I tried in reverse again and it done it again. Any clues to why? Its a 03 v10 with 76xxx miles...
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I have a 2005 EX Eddie Bauer. In the past week the climate control system has acted funny twice. Once on startup it did not turn on and once while driving it just turned off - as in digital readout is blank and the unit acting as if it has no power. It seems to "fix" itself... What I should be prepared for - bad unit or something else?
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When I am at stop light my truck cuts off while in drive, it idles low when cranks up, it sputters like its not getting gas, I already replaced IAC valve, cleaned throttle body & mass air flow sensor, I replaced fuel pump,fuel filter,all spark plugs & bad coil packs, check battery & alternator, checked all vacuum lines & every now & then the check engine light comes on with a p220 code: Output speed sensor which I replaced, what else could it be
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Have an 05 Limited Excursion v10 where the front blower motor will cut out randomly. The rear blower will work without issue even when the front is not working. When the front is working (98% of the time) all speeds seem to work and can adjust to all heating/cooling positions. After searching the forum I thought the likely culprit was the blower motor; which I replaced this pass weekend but coming home from work it cut off again, clearly the issue is not resolved. I know the ford resistor are known to be prone to issues but symptoms do not seem to point that direction. Also it is does not happen with any consistency, happens at idle just as frequently as the expressway. What else to check and how to check before I have to give in and take to dealership...
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I owned a 2012 Ford Mustang that had a safety issue with the stability control. At random times around 50MPH, the stability control would randomly kick on, cutting throttle and applying the brakes - sometimes with force - causing the car to slow down, shimmy, and sway from side to side. These incidents didn't happen often, but when they did - watch out! Since the dealer couldn't replicate the issue, I decided to take a video of the car performing it's deed (and others have as well. This is by no means limited to just my car). Ford - at the corporate level - basically told me that unless the problem was happening when the dealership was looking at it, they weren't going to do a thing about it. As far as they were concerned, what I was experiencing was perfectly acceptable, and apparently normal.
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I have a 2000 - F150xlt - 4.2L - V6:
Today while leaving work for lunch I started the engine and suddenly the ABS light came on and the engine cut out before I put it in gear. Then as I was driving each time it cut out the ABS light came on. So I stopped at the convenience store across the street from work to get some gas thinking it was low although it had a 1/4 tank. But after filling up it would not start. Then relay #2 began clicking in the fuse panel and would not stop whether the key was on or off. Several minutes of this went on and then I pressed the brake peddle in once more and everything on the dash lighted up, the dials fluttered around, the clock came back on, etc...
So I tried starting the engine again and suddenly everything started working and the engine started up. I drove it home and it ran fine with no issues, no cutting out or anything. After lunch I tried it again to head back to work and the truck would not start again. But this time there was no clicking from relay #2. Everything was dead until I pumped the brake peddle several times with the key off and then turned key in the ignition and then it started right up and drove like normal. Why it's doing this and what to check to fix it?
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I have a 2000 Ford F-250 6.8 v10 that is running rough and cutting out when I give it gas but I can turn the key off and turn it back on and it will run right, what it could be?
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My Mk4 2000 Jetta 2.slow has been acting up, a week ago I went to pick something up from my fathers house and a minute later I cam back to start it to only have the idle strange,it as well the throttle being all sorts of weir till it cut out and I had to push it into the drive way. I has the coil pack tested, and it was measured to be right where it needed to buy. I then bought starting fluid and after spraying it into the air intake it started. I had it running till it cut out and had to redo it again. Then when driving home again after putting more in it stopped, I was able to start it again keep moving for another ten second before having it stop again. I am receiving no check engine lights, alternator is good and as wel as the battery.
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I use a bottle hanging like an I.V. drip to flush the Brake Fluid in all my cars. I can pump all the old fluid out, as well as the air. My Superduty 7.3 has a good solid brake pedal after the flush. It seems to me the rear brakes handle 60% of the stopping load. Its been like this for so long I'm not sure if it's ever been different. i then go to a gravel or wet road and test the rear abs, and it seems o work, but definitely has a squirrely feel. I did some strong pavement stops with speed, and it stops, no skidding. Is that the way it should be?
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I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer with about 180,000 miles on it. It has been running fine, then a few weeks ago we got gas at a small little station we had never been to. The day after it started cutting out. We took it to the shop and they put a new catalytic converter on it. They said it also needed a new water pump and something with oil seals, so we went ahead and did that. It drove fine for a while, then the next time we filled up with gas it started cutting out and completely died. They put a new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires and distributor cap, basically gave it a good tune up. It's been driving fine. We filled it up and with in a few miles it start stuttering. At the stop light it rattled but kept going. drove it another 3 miles and it stuttered again. We are out of money and at our wits end!
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Down hill toward intersection with light that turned red. I braked fairly hard and then all of a sudden, brake pedal goes to floor and I go through the light. I pump brake once or twice and still nothing. Luckily I made it through without hitting anyone and eventually stopped with emergency brake. Turns out the line to the rear brakes blew. It was probably weak and maybe the pressure from braking hard blew it. This was sudden. There was no warning whatsoever. Reservoir was empty and practically no brakes in the front. There was enough front brakes to keep the truck from idling forward, but that is it. I thought that I should have had full front brakes with a modern day master cylinder. Looks like Ford blew it with this one. Very dangerous design.
Is there an upgrade available? I never want this to happen again.
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The front brakes are pulsing (slightly, enough to spill my coffee when they line up together) with each rotation. I can't tell if they're warped, or if they have a rough patch on each disc.
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I bought my 2005 Turbo diesel awhile back, and I was having an intermittent problem with the brakes. If I have to suddenly stop, and hit the brakes, it feels like I didnt hit them at all. Sure, I stop, but only after 3-4 seconds of OH CRAP IM GOING TO HIT SOMEONE.
So I just had my truck in the shop, and they replaced my front rotors, turned back back rotors, and replaced all of the pads.
So, I figured that should fix the issue. Not so.
Tonight my daughter was in a car accident, and I was hurrying my way to her, and the light in front of me flipped yellow/red pretty quick. So I hit the brakes, and thought I was going to go right through the intersection..
When I hit the damned brakes, I need to freaking stop. Not keep moving and then slow down gradually. Scared the crap out of me multiple times now. One time I'm not going to be so lucky.
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My brakes sometimes feel like the rotors are warped. The problem is that it isn't consistent. I remember how the original rotors warped and they were crap so I put some drilled and slotted rotors on about 150,000 miles ago. Currently but not all of the time it acts like the current rotors are warped, the steering wheel will move back and forth, feel the shake in the vehicle. But today running a few errands at lunch, there was no wobble etc. I might go ahead and replace the rotors/pads but want to be sure that is the issue. Could it be the hydroboost on the 7.3? ABS?
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Here's what I am running into. I have factory setup and it doesn't feel adequate. I get vibrations, lots of brake dust on front wheels, and just don't feel I have the stopping power if needed in emergency or towing. Especially with how heavy my 6.0 is already.
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Ok, my brakes have felt the same since I got the truck. I push a little harder than I should have to (not a hard pedal, but further to the floor than normal to where it's harder to push) get the truck to stop. If I want to brake check someone that's riding my bumper I have to REALLY smash the pedal and even then it doesn't grab hard or lock up. Since I have owned the truck I have put all new pads, rotors, and calipers on, Russel braided lines front and rear (all 3 on the rear), and flushed ALL of the old fluid from the truck (Twitch and I went through 2 large bottles when we did the brakes).
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After all of this there has been no change in my brakes at all. Not one bit. What's odd is sometimes after it rains when I first get in the truck the first time I stop I get massive awesome brakes, but just the once. I never have a spongy pedal, and I never lose pressure, I just have brakes.
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