Ford Excursion :: 2000 Truck Would Not Shift - Fuse Blown
Sep 7, 2013
About three weeks ago driving. My truck would not shift come to find out it was a fuse that blew. Well I pull over and replace the fuse it starts right up I get about a mile from my house and it blows again so I shut off my x and then replaced the fuse. Will not start...
Now I am getting a Pats code 1:6 and my obd2 reader says no link on my x. It used to read it all the time. I am trying to figure out what I can check to fix this problem are there any relays. Oh also my check engine light does not come on when I turn the key but my truck does crank. does this mean there is no power to my ECU. I did replace my ecu and it did not solve the issue.
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It is a 2000 excursion its got codes # 135 155 443 743 755 1747 And overdrive light is flashing really....
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1997 F150 xlt 4x4 ... When I shift the gear shift lever to below D (2-1) it blows a fuse and I lose instruments. Replacing the fuse is not difficult, just tiresome..
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I have an 02 Excursion, V10. It has the extension brake switch harness, with the fuses. I had a blown 2a fuse. I have a brake pressure switch, that is still open. Any better approach to the redundant switch. If not, I would like to know an updated switch part #, and is there any reason I could use key run, for the battery? Using a Bosch relay coils thru the switch, then battery to the cruise servo?
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My 2007 F150's turn signals and hazard lights quit working. I checked the fuse and it was blown. Once I pulled the old fuse out the truck wouldn't start at all. What happened?
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Horn isn't working found fuse blown. Replaced fuse and horn stays on. Swapped relays still stays on. With fuse out pressing left side of horn cover on steering wheel I can feel/hear relay click. Pressing right side not so much. What and where to check? Is there a way to disconnect the horn buttons on the steering wheel?
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Further reading suggests it could be the fuse blown causing this code, this code was coming up among others with the old lambda, so at least it cleared some codes.
Where is the fuse located for the O2 sensor? Will try that. How much more fuel will it be using also? Used half a tank doing approx 110 miles surely that's not right?
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Fuse #27 keeps blowing as soon as I shift into reverse.
Prior to shifting, everything works as it should - I've unplugged the rear sensors, back up lights, trailer plug, and each time, fuse #27 keeps blowing.....
Where I should look? Also - looking for a 2003 excursion wiring diagram that shows what all fuse#27 controls?
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2000 Excursion with the 5.4 in her. Lots of miles. Used only to tow a travel trailer. Blew out the #3 coil packet and spark plug today. Have to pull the head for sure. My question is why? Is there a more severe problem as to why it did this? Or is my old girl just worn out. 270,000 miles.
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I put in an aftermarket stereo. It has been a while since I have done that and somewhere along the wiring process I made a mistake and blew a fuse. I knew the lights around my speedometer weren't working but what I didn't realize is that my running brake lights weren't working, it took me about two days to realize this.
I fixed my wiring mistake and started looking for the blown fuse. I found one (I believe #19 inside the vehicle) and replaced it. This fixed my running brake lights and half of my instrument cluster. The lighting on the right side of my speedometer seems to work but to the left of it seems to be no light.
Also, I have an automatic car starter and before I jacked things up when I use to start it and the blinker lights use to come on and let me know that my car was running. I have checked the majority of the fuses(I believe all of them) and it doesn't seem that I have anymore blown fuses.
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I bought a 2000 excursion a month ago and have already had 3 plugs blow out on me. They've been repaired professionally with time sert but the mechanic is starting to wonder if back pressure is building up causing this. He's suggesting to replace the catalytic converter as it's original and has 120,000 miles on it. He's made it clear that he doesn't know if this is the cause but to lose 3 in a month worries him. Is there anything else I can do?
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I have a 2000 Excursion V10, I keep blowing the #19 10A miniature fuse while I am going down the road. All gauges and speedometer all of sudden die but the vehicle keeps running until I turn it off. When I try to restart she won't fire until I put a new fuse in.
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My rear A/C and heat are not working on my 2000 X. I don't have an owners manual for my truck, so if there's a rear A/C fuse somewhere either under the dash or under the hood?
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Well I went to go to home depot and the key turned and my theft light started blinking and I hear a clicking noise coming from my fuse panel. By the way this is on a 2000 7.3l 4x4 limited. I found what was clicking (see picture) it is the second relay down, the one with the chipped plastic. My question is is this a relay I can replace or is it part of the fuse box? Where I can get a replacement? This is my daily driver so I need to fix this ASAP.
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So i bought an excursion 3 or 4 days ago and yesterday I went to install a double din dvd receiver. As I was installing something shorted out and I blew the radio fuse. No big deal or so I thought. Got the radio in and replaced the fuse but then the X wouldn't start. Went through everything and found a 5 amp fuse and a 15 amp fuse blown as well. Turns out the 15 amp fuse is for starter motor or something. Well I replaced the fuses and they kept blowing. Unhooked the radio completely and still keep blowing and the X is still obviously not starting. Pulled every relay I could in hopes something would reset and nothing. Any clue what it could be at this point?
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I have a 2000 Excursion w/ V10 and I have an issue with the transmission form time to time. some times it does not want to shift out of first. if I pull over and turn it off for a few minutes it will be fine for a while and it doesn't do this all the time. A few nights ago it did this so I pulled over and turned it off and it still did it but then it started shifting on its own just fine till we got on the high way which is started shifting in and out of over drive going around 60-65 MPH. didn't want to go too fast not knowing what it could or would do. it did this for a few miles then it started working fine. next day it did the same thing not wanting to shift out of first then started working fine. drove it around last night and it all worked perfectly. The CEL is on but I get a no communication text from the scanner so that is another thing I need to look in to. I'm guessing it is an electrical issue being when it works it shifts fine and it does not slip at all.
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I have a 2000 excursion v10 with 270k she is a great truck... but she is not starting. I thought it was the starter relay on the passenger fender bc it will start when you jump It with a wrench. I replace the relay and no luck still not starting. When you turn the key I can hear the relays fire that are in the fuse box but the starter will not fire.
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My '00 V10 4x4 w/ 163k miles has had a rough shift from 2-3 (30-40 mph) with high rpms. If I let off the throttle before the shift I can get it to shift smooth, but if I don't let off the throttle it can shift really hard. I only have this issue from 2-3 and it has not gotten worse since I bought the rig almost two years ago. Driving conditions are around town on occasion and for towing a 3k pound pop up. Maybe 2k miles a year so far? The hard shift happens whether towing or not.
I have done just a drain and fill on the trans fluid a year ago. Have not had time to change the filter (even though I have read it's not necessary). I am planning on doing another drain and fill soon along with the filter since I have one and cleaning out the trans pan.
When searching on FTE I read a post about the accumulator springs that can go bad and was wondering if maybe this is the problem? Since I am planning on doing the filter change I was going to do the spring replacement while the pan was open.
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I have a 2004 Lariat 4x4 with a no start condition. I had lights, but it wouldn't crank. I then discovered that it would not shift out of park. Turns out that it had a blown fuse. I did not have any of that type (the funky square 20a fuses) so I pulled the heated seats fuse (30a) and threw it in there, tried to start it and blew it right away. Is there a common short to look for on these? I believe that the guy that owned it before me had a satellite radio in it, and could it be a bare wire from that setup possibly blowing the fuse?Just trying to get a head start on tracking down the short.
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I just recently bought a 2000 excursion 7.3 diesel. I'm new to diesel but learning. So far I've installed a new drop in filter in my airbox. Cut out the plastic behind the grill for cold ram air into the intake. I've done the FPR mod and cleaned out the exhaust back pressure tube. And last but not least I installed an Edge Evolution 2 programmer running stage 3 with timing advanced 2 degrees. Nothing else to the custom settings other than what stage 3 provided. Here is my problem. On the freeway at 65-75mph cruising with the cruise control on, the truck starts to shudder. I suspect my TC lockup is going out but not sure. So I wanted to test it buy installing a manual lockup switch. So I installed the switch running a wire from the plug going into the transmission on the purple with yellow wire using a saddle tap to a switch to part of the dash frame under the dash. Went to test out the switch and nothing happened.
As y'all and other forum's have described I should feel something and the od light should start flashing. I get nothing. Tried testing the switch and my ground source and everything tests out fine. Tested the saddle tap. Its fine. Tested with the switch on and using a meter to check ohms at the tap to the frame of the truck I'm getting 8ohms. I would think there shouldn't be any resistance because its a dead short but that's what I'm getting. Am I connected to the right spot on the transmission or should I move the tap to the plug under the brake master cylinder. Could my TC lockup solenoid be going out and that's what's causing the shudder and why the manual switch doesn't work.
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Tranny died 12000 miles ago and shop rebuilt tranny with new torque converter.
Problem then and now is after long freeway run 60+miles it dies and bogs down with any shift change. If it is placed in 2nd it will bogg down and die. If the tranny auto shifts it also dies. If it cools or just sits it will run again for a while. This does not happen always so it is hard to duplicate it.
Truck is not towing or even loaded most of the time and only once was it loaded when it died, the first rebuild. Truck has 249000 miles, ex v10.
So any clues as to what the shop missed last time and is it worth rebuilding again. Truck is only worth a bit more than the cost of shop time.
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