Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Surging Like Feeling Around 30 MPH In V10
Aug 11, 2016
2000 V10 about 179k ... Well my wife was traveling from California to Everett, Wa area and well I told her to keep on oil level they failed to do so and check engine light came on. They pulled into Orielly shop managed to fill it back with oil but the only things that came up on engine light with shops OBD reader was air bag and possible fuel pump.
I don't have the codes but let me remind you I'm getting my information from my frustrated wife who moved up there with my kids while I'm in San Diego for Military Training. I will be heading that way soon but in the meantime I want to try to troubleshoot it. I asked her to go back to auto shop and get the codes this time.
The truck drives and runs fine now except engine light still on and around 30mph from what I'm being told with the best description possible it surges. Recent tune up to include wires and plugs. Air filter is good to go. I'm leaning towards fuel filter? maybe bad gas on the travel but if it only does it at certain speeds maybe not. Or Air system like vacuum leak? Possible transmission issue? Not sure if that would cause anything or not.
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I have a 2008 Mitsubishi Endeavor with 308,000 miles on it and am on the return portion of a road trip with 700 miles to go and my car is driving terribly. I had my oil changed today and they used a high mileage oil, said that my filters were fine and I needed to do a tranny and power steering flush which I said I would do once I got home. My service engine soon light has been on and every so often while idling or slowing down my car would putter and act as if it would bail out but never actually die. When I ran the computer it said it was an issue with the o2 sensor but after put a fuel cleaner in the system, it always felt better.
Not today I drove about 900 miles Saturday, did a little bit of in town driving Sunday and it started to putter while idling but what was new was the surging during acceleration and the continual puttering or bumpy ride feeling when I'm at high speeds and 2000 - 3000 rpms. I'm in the middle of nowhere and after talking to Autozone, my mechanics and trying to self diagnosis online, I've been told that I need to indure the bumpy ride to get home but when I do, will need to figure out what with the o2 sensor needs fixing or Ill need new spark plugs or a new fuel pump. all that sounds good but the way my car is puttering feels terrible! there's no odor, leaks or sound ... it just feels like I'm going 80 miles an hour but I'm going to stall out at the same time.
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But I'm still getting a grinding/clunk noise and general loose feeling from the front end. The only play I can feel is when I grab the u-joint/knuckle and pull up and down on it. I also noticed the seal at the end of the axle shaft tube is not there on 1 side... would this lack of seal cause the looseness?
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I'm having an issue with my brakes. It was very intermittent, but seems to be happening a little more often lately. 99% of the time they work fine.
I'll try to describe. (vaguely) It will sometimes feel like the ABS is engaging, get a very hard pedal and some pulsing feeling. Sometimes just the pulsing without the hard pedal. It will happen at random times. Today it did it in the driveway going 5 MPH. No reason the ABS should think of kicking in.
I feel confident to rule out anything downstream at the wheels. I am leaning towards the master cylinder, but maybe that's wishful thinking. Afraid it also could be something sticking in the ABS which I assume is $$$.
Brake fluid is 18 months old with maybe 20k on it.
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Went out this morning, fired right up, then banging noise and a slapping feeling internal to the engine, oily smell, and dead. I fear the worst.
Can one transplant a newer version v10 into these things or is it time to start parting it out and shopping for a new one?
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After changing out my tensioner on my 6.0 but not directly about 24 hours later I started getting a surge/power/smoking problem after accelerating. Seems to be no problem at idle. Last night driving from Nj to SC it seemed to do it after I stopped to pee. If I could get it back to 60-65 mph it would run fine but accelerating to there was rough. I change my ebp sensor and thought that solved it but it came back. Unfortunately I couldn't get the sensing line off so that wasn't cleaned.
Unplugged the egr and thought that did it but it ended doing it again. When looking at the dashboss it looks like exhaust pressure goes up and boost goes to zero. What would cause the guide vanes to close is that a defuel or is that just the result of another sensor. It's a late 04 build with ipc on valve cover and ebp sensor at front of engine. Also it seems to happen at higher speeds. Going up and down hills at 75 or even 70 it seemed to do it often. I ran 60-65 between pee stops for hours without a hiccup..
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from time to time when applying breaks there is a feeling and noise like I have hit an ice patch - pump breaks twice and all is well - Breaks are 1 year old / break fluid is full ?
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My truck is a 2000 model 2wd with the 5.4 engine. It has about 234000 miles on it. It suddenly started surging last night rpm jumping around approximately 4-600rpms each time. I noticed that once I got up around 50mph it would smooth out...
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I have a 2000 Toyota SR5 with a 6-cylinder engine. When I first start the car (cold start) in the morning it will run at high idle (1500-1800 rpm) for about 3-4 minutes. At this point, the idle will begin to drop, but then the engine starts to surge. It's a noticeable surge that bounces from around 900-1100 rpm. It almost seems like an electrical surge, but I don't believe that's the problem. After running the car for a while and it's fully warmed up to operating temperature, the surge goes away. My thoughts automatically went to the IAC (idle air control) or maybe a temp sensor?
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Title pretty much says it. When its COLD it surges while idling upon start up. It goes away once you start driving it and the engine warms up. Other than that it runs great. Its got about 235 K with a replacement motor that has about 100k. I've had it about a year. Great vehicle. Its a standard.
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I have a 2000 Grand Prix GT with about 125,000 miles on it. Whenever I accelerate gently on the pedal the rpm will waver back and forth, especially between 2000 and 3000 rpm's. It seems to hesitate as the rpm goes down and then surges back and forth almost on one second intervals until I either let go of the pedal or punch it down to kick it into overdrive.
I have had a code in the past that the o2 sensor by the cat convertor was getting messed up readings, can't recall the specific number off hand though. Do you think that these problems could be caused by a bad catalytic convertor? I have smelled the classic rotten egg smell before from my car too, but it didn't seem to smell when I smelled the exhaust tonight. How would I test this myself easily?
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I have a 2000 hyundai accent and when i fill with fuel it surges like its running out of fuel and stalls when fuel is gets low it runs fine.
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I have a 2002 Accent with 119,000 miles on it. Its an automatic transmission. When I am driving the car feels like it surging forward while I have the brake on...its doesn't happen all the time. But when it does it surges for half a minute, then run fine and then surges again.
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I'm seeing the following symptoms in my 2001 Accent 1.6L:
1. Check Engine Light on;
2. Certain electrical functions occasionally surge. For example, headlights and dash lights will become noticeably brighter for a few seconds, and the heater fan will blow harder. The surges last for about 3 seconds, then stop. Surges happen randomly, sometimes four or five times during a 30 minute drive, sometimes not at all in an hour.
3. The speedo/tacho lights have been cutting in and out randomly for longer than this, and this does not happen at the same time as the surges above.
4. Recently, the surges became more frequent and the Air Bag light started going on, then off. Now it is permanently on.
5. The battery has leaked fluid out from the fill caps, a good few ounces of fluid.
6. There are no blown fuses.
7. The Battery is 6 months old.
8. The alternator is 6 months old, and is the third one after two previous ones failed; the original was replaced 3 years ago, and the replacement failed 2.5 years later.
9. A fried lead to the starting motor was found when the alternator was first replaced, and was repaired. Related?
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I have a 2002 Accent 1.6L 72K miles, idle surging between 1500 - 2500 rpm after stopping from 50 mph, (with Code P0121) replaced TPS - No Luck . I reset the DTS error codes, ran it with a new TPS and same exact problem, Code P0121 came back, and surging continued, this happens when I decelerate from high speed- 50 mph or so and it will not go to normal idle, surges between 1500 and 2500 rpm when in park.
If I give the throttle pedal a good kick, the problem goes away, and it idles fine, nice and smooth and at normal rpm, the DTS code will clear, and stays cleared, mil light goes out. It almost seems like something is sticking, I know its not the throttle itself because when I do a live data, the TPS shows "0", if I manually push the throttle shaft closed at the throttle body, it is fully seated shut, so I know its not a sticking cable or anything. Can a sticking MAF sensor cause this? Maybe what I'll try tomorrow is rapping the throttle body with a rubber mallet while its surging, maybe something is not returning to its normal position in there.
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Mechanics say they don’t know what wrong… I had some transmission work done on my truck – mostly an leak and replacing the harness – and ever since then after it rains or if we have a heavy dew my truck does the following:
Driving from O to 49 miles an hour truck is fine, as soon as I hit 50 the truck starts surging and you can see the tachometer jumping from 2000 RPM to 2500 RPMs. I drive around 17 miles to work where my truck will sit for seven hours. On the way home the truck is fine. I find this to be more of a problem when the truck has sat for a day or two over the weekend without driving it. Sometimes the “check engine” light will come on, sometimes not.
I have taken it to two different places and neither one says they can find anything wrong with the truck. I have driven this truck for over 11 years and know it very well. There is something wrong, but what? 1993 Chevy Silverado 3500 Diesel....
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I just put new plugs in and changed the fuel filter. I also hooked it up to a ecm reader to see if there where any faults and it does not have any. I reset the computer just he same. But for some reason I can't get it going over 30 mph and when i floor it. It just doesn't go anywhere. At first it did read faults in the 6 plug but I didn't have a check engine light on i just replaced the coil and plug but now after I did everything I cant get above 30 and its scary. I just don't know what to do?
It does idle normally. As for the fuel pressure i took the filter off and turned it over and fuel runs through fine from the tank. I checked the wiring and it looks ok. No codes are present. This just started it happened a long time ago but after I changed the fuel filter it worked fine so I changed it again thinking it was the problem again but after i did it the problem still persists. I don't have any check engine light on either....
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I have a 2013 with the 3.7 in it with 24,000 miles on it. I bought the truck used with 8,000 on it was a pre-Owned certified and it already had a k&n air intake which I know it's not needed and I would much rather have the factory intake instead.. 7 months ago I took it to the dealer because I noticed at stop lights it idled rough sometimes almost feeling like it was going to stall out so I took it in and they said that the motor was getting to much air and causing it to run like it was and they said the cooler weather was making it worse and said it should get better when it warms up and they said it wouldn't hurt anything... Well I live in Florida and it's been in the 90s and it still idles like crap you can feel the vibration through the truck...
And it's so aggravating and annoying and I wish I had a stock intake that I could install on the truck to see if it fixes the problem but I don't and I've researched the problem and have seen people with the same issues without the k&n air intake and I've also been told that the stock air intake gives the motor just as much air as the k&n so with that being said did the dealer take the easy way out and blame the intake or should they be responsible for installing the factory intake back on since they made it a certified pre-owned with the k&n on the truck? It's been frustrating because I don't know a whole lot about gas motors.. And I'd like to get the problem fixed while I still have warranty ..
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My 2004 Lariat with 110,000 miles has a shudder feeling when I back up or go forward in low. This only happens when I first take off, as far as I can tell. Would this be transmission clutches slipping or rear end clutches slipping, or something else? What test can I do to isolate the problem?
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I am having a hard time figuring out what is going on with my A/C. First time you start it for the day, works great, blows cold air, but will only do it for about five minutes, then the compressor kicks off.
I have tried by-passing the high and low pressure switches, compressor still will not kick on. Checked the air-gap, it is fine, and I actually removed the shim, so there is almost no gap at all now, didn't fix the problem.
I tried replacing the A/C clutch relay, no luck there. I can tell you that if I manually push the contact in on the A/C clutch relay, the compressor kicks in and runs.
The only thing I can think of at this point is the A/C control panel in the dash, but wanted to check before I buy that expensive part and replace.
If it matters, this is on a 2000 Excursion, with the 6.8l v-10
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I have a 2000 excursion v10 with 66k miles on it. This past weekend i went to engage my 4wd and it would not work. the light on the dash is on and i think i heard a click but no luck. A buddy told me to tap the transfer case motor with a hammer but am a little skeptical. another friend told me to check the vacuum switch with the vent/ defroster but i am not sure that holds true with my yr/model (i did a test where i left the vent setting on face/feet then turned on the 4wd. the airflow seemed to remain as set). About a year ago i removed, regreased and repacked my front hubs.
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