Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Starter Motor Fuse Keep Blowing After Radio Install
Oct 17, 2016
So i bought an excursion 3 or 4 days ago and yesterday I went to install a double din dvd receiver. As I was installing something shorted out and I blew the radio fuse. No big deal or so I thought. Got the radio in and replaced the fuse but then the X wouldn't start. Went through everything and found a 5 amp fuse and a 15 amp fuse blown as well. Turns out the 15 amp fuse is for starter motor or something. Well I replaced the fuses and they kept blowing. Unhooked the radio completely and still keep blowing and the X is still obviously not starting. Pulled every relay I could in hopes something would reset and nothing. Any clue what it could be at this point?
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2002 F450 7.3 Turbo
Ok first problem : Starter Motor fuse kept blowing and I spent weeks trying to figure it out. No luck. so wired up a push button just to get the truck started, its a work truck so it was needed asap.
2nd problem : he truck stopped starting completely. Wont start in Park or neutral and after a NEW STARTER (because I thought the solenoid on the starter was bad I replaced it) Everything work correctly for one start with the key. After the second time trying to start it blew the starter fuse again. So I tried the straight wiring to starter. still nothing. I was wondering if there are any shims or anything at the transmission housing to correctly position the starter. I am thinking that maybe the gear is stuck or gets stuck sometimes. when I straight wire the starter it does nothing but the wire gets hot so I know its pulling.
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I have a 2000 Excursion V10, I keep blowing the #19 10A miniature fuse while I am going down the road. All gauges and speedometer all of sudden die but the vehicle keeps running until I turn it off. When I try to restart she won't fire until I put a new fuse in.
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I had a problem with this issue a few months ago, was 45 minutes away from home, blew the fuse to the starter. Switched another one in, blew it too. Had it towed to a shop, they did some diagnostics, felt like it was a short in the starter, replaced it and all has been well (as far as that particular issue) until this morning. Got in it, turned the key it cranked for less than a second and stopped. I pull the fuse, sure enough, blown. Swap it with another, it blows.
I know I have a bare wire in the column, the OD light wire is chaffed, I fixed it before but it must be worn again because I can get it to light up depending on positioning of the shifter lever and as I recall, every time the fuse blows the steering wheel is cranked to the left.
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Just bought a used 15 F-250 with 57,000 miles, yesterday tried to start it and nothing happened. Checked the starter fuse and it was blown, replaced it and it immediately blew when i tried to start the truck. Pulled the starter and had it tested and it was good, replaced the relay and still blowing fuses. I have got it to start a couple of times but as soon as you kill the engine and try to restart it blows the fuse. What was the fix? Truck had no problems trying to start before this problem started.....
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Upon trying to start my 2003 f250, it keeps blowing the 15A "Transmission Range Sensor then to Starter Relay Coil" fuse. Initially the truck would still start if i did not use the aftermarket Viper keyless start. however, now it doesn't start at all and keeps blowing fuses. I contacted the guy that installed the alarm thinking it might be something on his end. He walked me through reconnecting the factory starter wires which would isolate the issue if it was something on his end. it's still blowing fuses. battery terminals are good and clean.
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The fuse marked #14 which controls the starter and the windows keeps burning. This first happened about 3 months ago and I took it in to a shop which charged me to check all the wires just to tell me that all the wiring was insulated properly and to let me know incase the fuse blows again to keep a spare at all times. Today it happened again and when I replaced the fuse it blew even before I could properly install it and blew 4 fuses in total.
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I have a 06 Mercury Mariner and this past week fuse #26 keeps blowing turning the HVAC blower motor off. I replaced the blower motor since i had one already in the garage and same thing is happening. The AC will run for awhile and in about 10/15 mins the fuse will blow. Fuse #26 is the Climate control system mode switch, are these known to go bad? Is this the part I should replace or look for other problems IE compressor?
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Every time I step on the brakes, there is a bright spark in fuse #13. My brake lights, turn signals and hazards don't work. At this point my truck isn't drivable.
According to the owner's manual in my truck, says circuit #13 is for "stop lamps, CHMSL/hazard, trailer tow stop lamp, and speed control."
I'm assuming that the hazard part covers the turn signals as well, but I know the cruise control works even when the fuse is blown. I used it last night on the way home (this was before I realized I didn't have brake lights).
So I know I have a short somewhere. The only mods I've done to the lights are the aftermarket headlights, but if the fuse only gets blown when I step on the brakes, I don't see what that would have to do with it. Also, these lights have been installed and working for about a month before this started. The only thing that I did around the same time was install the gauges. I ran the power to them from #5, the customer access circuit.
Are there any other "common" areas for this to happen? I already removed the rear brake lights and it didn't work. I am quickly running out of 20A mini fuses.
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Fuse #27 keeps blowing as soon as I shift into reverse.
Prior to shifting, everything works as it should - I've unplugged the rear sensors, back up lights, trailer plug, and each time, fuse #27 keeps blowing.....
Where I should look? Also - looking for a 2003 excursion wiring diagram that shows what all fuse#27 controls?
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Yesterday My wife's 2010 Elantra needed a jump start, I had Accidentally connected the Jumper cables up incorrectly. I corrected the issue and the vehicle runs fine now. however the AUDIO fuse in the interior, which controls the radio and any alert Dings keeps blowing. Its a 15A fuse. I replaced it yesterday with a brand new fuse and it worked when tested the first time. this morning however it is now not working again and the fuse is again blown. do I just replace it with another fuse? is there something else I can check? will a 20A fuse work better?
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My Excursion keeps blowing fuse #45, a/k/a "Ignition switch Run/ Start feed"
Going to have to go in shop. Seems to be a short in the steering column.
Then the dash lights go dim, headlights die, engine sputters and dies. I am guessing alternator most likely.
These two things might be related? Maybe there's not a short in the steering column, I dunno.
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Ok I keep blowing fuse #3 in the interior compartment. Let me preface this by saying I have my always-on power for my rear view mirror which is the display for my back up camera, pulled from a wire that is fed by this fuse. The camera is on reverse power only and it pulled from the reverse lights in the rear of the truck, but the always-on power is pulled from this location for the display. Doesn't matter if I have always-on power to camera if the display fuse it has blown and I am guessing the mirror power is the source of my problem.
The fuse controls the OBD and the cigarette lighter and it seems to blow every time I plug anything into that power port that is more serious than say a phone charge. When this fuse goes then my mirror display is down, and back up camera is mainly used for hitching up a trailer solo. My camera is pointed straight down at my hitch ball and it makes hitching up by myself very easy.
I have a volt meter but not sure where I need to test, and well what a bad number is when I do test it? The mirror instructions say to pull always on power under the dash and the right wires are attached, and the fuse rating matches, so don't think it's a too much being pulled issue. Maybe a bad connection or maybe a relay issue? I had this fuse blow several times before I had the power mirror but it's certainly gotten worse.
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I have a 2009 Corolla LE and the radio does not work. It keeps popping the fuse for the radio under the hood. Is this a common problem? If not any system wiring diagram? I am about to take the car on a big trip and if I cant get the radio to function....its gonna be a long ride...
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My 2000 ford excursion gauges fuse keeps popping. It started earlier this year and I couldn't pin point when it would pop. Now I'm sure after 30.00 worth of fuses that it happens when I change the gear shifter from park or rev to drive.
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2000 Model, The fuse keeps blowing on this. I thought it was the cruise control fuse because the cruise kept not working and when I replaced fuse it would work. Only for a little though, then I looked at manual and it says the fuse is for the brake position switch. I am presuming this is just like the old days and that is the brake light switch under the dash. They use to have two wires now there is like five. Anyways I do not see any bare wires or anything that would blow a fuse, is it common for these switches to go out or what??
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I posted earlier about the tranny in my 01 Ex v10 having a transmission problem. The show looked at it and found the O2 sensor had shorted out and in some way sending the truck in to limp home causing the tranny fuse to blow????
Any way they fixed it or so they said and I drove it for a few hours and it did fine. The next morning I drove it and it blew the fuse. (under hood box I belive #19) I took it back to the shop and they beat and banged on it....got it wet etc. and can not get it to do it again. I know whe have an electrical issue but what all runs off of the fuse that controlls the tranny?
Is there any online wiring diagrams of excursions or superduty drive trains? Where all to look for the problem?
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On my 2005 Elantra - my radio, dash board clock, dome light, and keyless entry stopped working all at the same time.
Fuse #25 that controls these features is burnt out. As i replace this fuse, it immediately sparks and blows the new fuse.
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Yr 2000 F-150 with V6 . Only 68K miles. 3 weeks ago went into fast food for lunch and then truck would not start. The starter would spin it over real well and plenty of gas etc etc. I came back the next day with a tow truck to take it to the dealer and it cranked and ran perfectly for 3 weeks till yesterday. Same thing. Will not start in parking lot of grocery store.
I only have one key and someone suggested that it could be the chip in the key or the theft system acting up. I only have one key from when I bought the truck 7 years ago used. Someone else said when the anti theft system is screwing up, the motor will be totally dead and starter will not work.
This time I am again planning to tow to the dealer and I fear a huge bill for something that is actually very tiny at fault since the truck runs perfectly well and then mysteriously will not start. This is the 2nd time in 3 weeks I have been stranded. I pulled all the fuses and reinserted. I checked all spark wires and they are in good shape and tight. What could it be that all of a sudden causes the engine to not start up and run intermittently ?
It is something I can do myself and I am pretty capable. I replaced in the last year water pump, power steering pump, ball joints and alternator. So what is not getting..... fuel or spark? The only two things we need for to run ... right ?
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I have a very small oil leak that looks to be just above the starter in the passenger side of my Excursion. It never puddles but I can see it is a little wet and oily in the area. I smell it once in a while burning off of the exhaust but again very rarely and minor. It's a $4000 truck and has plenty of rust underneath and I have no intention of pulling the heads to replace a gasket if that is where it's coming from.
Just wondering if there is a likely culprit known in this area. I know I've seen reference to such a leak somewhere but I can't find any threads on it quickly. If it's a head basket, I assume it would be losing anti freeze more than oil, but where I can look? I am not above using some sort of surface putty or stop leak type of thing if it's got a chance of stopping it for a year.
I also am getting ready to pull off the passenger side exhaust manifold to replace the gasket and just can't wait to see how many studs have broken or will break off. I have until spring (camping season) to get it done and don't really ever need to drive it, so I have time when its not too cold in Wisconsin.
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My 2000 Passat 1.8T is being evil again. Fuse 15 keeps blowing and I can't seem to find where the short is... however, its stuck at my work. Its a pretty big short, the fuse sparks as soon as I put the fuse near it. BIG SPARKS. Any way to start it without that fuse in?
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