Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Remote Key Fob Programming
Feb 9, 2016
My 2000 excursion will not enter the program mode to allow me to program 2 new remote fobs. A couple of years ago I successfully programmed two remotes and it was easy. One broke so I thought well I will buy 2 more. I have tried the procedure over 100 times and I can not make it work. Followed instructions to a tee that came with the fobs and also the procedure in owners manual. Is there a relay that could be bad? I can use the door number code and my last key fob still works fine. I have disconnected the battery, both cables, held them together for 1 minute and left them off for 1/2 hour. Still no luck.
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I have a new keyfob for my wife's 2000 X, and I'm trying to program it. The procedure is simple, right? Get in the truck, put the key in the ignition, lock the doors, unlock the doors, then cycle it to the run position (back of off), 8 times -- staying in "run" the eighth time.
I've done this OVER and OVER after my wife said it wouldn't work for her. The problem is that when you hit run the 8th time, the locks should cycle, indicating that it is ready to program the remote. The problem is the locks never cycle.
I also tried the same procedure without the locking and unlocking step prior to turning the key. And I also tried it by locking and unlocking prior to inserting the key.
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I have 2 fully functioning keys but I am looking at trying to program a miscut key I got for my truck just for the fob. What Id like to do is basically leave my key in the ignition and have a FOB with the actual key cut off so it is only the head containing the fob. I can remote start the truck, unlock the doors and then get in a use the key in the ignition as normal. I just hate the hugs key on my key ring. Is there a way to program the key fob, not the PATS key. Its miscut so thats not an option.
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I just bought a new 2010 F150 and it came with the factory remote start with the separate key fob. Can I get one of the integrated key fobs and program it to my truck/starter? Also if that is possible where can I get one?
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I have tried to program 2006 Toyota camry for remote key activation .. but after all the steps completions the locks are not responding to activate the remote key.
Have tried many times as shown in videos but car not responding.
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I received a free keyless remote for the passat from a friend and would like to program this remote to my car. I tried the method that everyone is talking about online, which is to turn the ignition to the "on" position with one key (w/o starting the car). Then put another key on the driver side door and turn to unlock position and hold until 3 beeps. I've held the key for over a minute and still don't hear any beeps. What am I doing wrong?
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Just bought a 2005 excursion diesel and they handed me a key fob and said that all I have to do is program it.
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Have already fixed the weak lock motors on my 2000 F250. Now I can't get the truck to go into programming mode. I know it has Keyless entry, as I located the relays and identified the wiring while trying to fix the weak locks before I found the fix here.
I've tried the key on off 8 times but the locks never cycle. I've tried it with the driver door open and closed, cycling the locks from unlocked to locked to unlocked before cycling the ignition switch. Tried cycling the ign switch 5 times, 8 times and 10 times.
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With snow on the ground all winter here (usually), and the summers getting into the 90's I was thinking about getting a remote start system. I know Viper is the big name but I just want something to start it, not do a bunch of prima donna functions I don't need. I normally do everything myself but electrical is not my forte and I hear that a DIY person can't get much info because they think only installers should do it. Also from what I gather, it takes a relay due to the transponder key. I am thinking $200 max and I hear Best Buy can do it all.
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I have a 2006 F250 and it has the stock keyless entry. I would like to have remote start system as well. I know I can buy an aftermarket system, but I'd prefer to no cut any wires. Is it possible to add on the OEM remote start system that may have been used on a superduty or excision of this vintage? and if so, is it a plug in type installation? or do you still have to cut and splice the stock wiring harness.
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I'm putting in a remote starter keyless entry in my 2000 f150 I have all the wires figured out except for the remote start part. Where the wires listed in the photo go? I do have the module required.....
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Okay here's the story I bought a 99 Ford Ranger with a bad 4.0 engine. I had a newer 2002 4.0 and tranny out of another Ford Ranger thought it be an easy swap put the newer engine in and it will only run on the original Older ecm (but ruff) and the older ECM is screwing with the transmission (no reverse) unplug connections at tranny and i have reverse. So I buy a ECM from a junkyard for the 2002 and drop it off at the dealership to have the Pats programmed. and the dealership says they can't program it to make it run. They say the Pats are different from 99 to 2002. So I go another route I buy an SCT performance chip and have them disable the Pats. still won't run.
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I only have one key and 2 FOBs for my 2005 Escape, but I do have the key number (4 digits plus a letter). I understand I need more than one to program another myself. Is there an inexpensive way to obtain/program a backup key?
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Purchased a key from ebay like the ones pictured. Long story short, after much struggle I've gotten it programmed to manually start the truck and to lock/unlock with the buttons. I have yet to program the remote start button. The information that I've found so far says to locate the remote start system override button to begin programming it to start the truck.
I installed the Ford remote start unit myself along with the VSS (vehicle security module). I have remote start working via a cell phone app. The vehicle security appears to be working as it should. There is no override or any other buttons on the RMST unit. Only an LED indicator light. The ebay vendor's listing states that the key can be self-programmed. So far they've been unresponsive to my questions. Am I overlooking something? Is there another way besides paying my dealer again to hook it up to their IDS to program this key?
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I know this has been done to death, but on my '08 F250 XL I can't seem to get the truck to enter into the programming mode to program some fobs to it. I've done the cycling business and the best I get is a flashing light on the dash of the truck with a little lock on it, but nothing else. Can you not program the XL? Is there a major step I am missing?
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I have a 2000 Passat and one day the the alarm remote just stopped working. I bought new batteries for it but it didn't work. Shortly after that my A/C started taking about a 1/2 hour to start working. What is the reason for both of these to start acting up?
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I have a 200 GMC Jimmy SLE and I am trying to program the new FOD key for it. I followed the listed instructions here [URL] .... and here [URL] ..... but it will not enter program mode.
So, is there another method to try to get it into program mode? I have looked here and else but the only other instructions has to do with pre 2000 series blazers.
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I have changed the batteries in the remote for my MY 2000 Jetta MKIV VR6. Now the remote is not working. A search suggests I need to program the remote using a specific procedure. Alas, I have found various procedures, and so far none has worked.
First of all, I have two keys, Both were functional. One still is.
What I tried:
-Put key with fob in ignition and turn key to accessory mode position.
-Wait 5 seconds
-Hold lock button on 5 down for 10 seconds.
-Turn ignition off and remove key.
-Close doors on car and trey to lock/unlock - not working!
I'm sure I can find a few more suggested methods, but what's the proper method?
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I just put new plugs in and changed the fuel filter. I also hooked it up to a ecm reader to see if there where any faults and it does not have any. I reset the computer just he same. But for some reason I can't get it going over 30 mph and when i floor it. It just doesn't go anywhere. At first it did read faults in the 6 plug but I didn't have a check engine light on i just replaced the coil and plug but now after I did everything I cant get above 30 and its scary. I just don't know what to do?
It does idle normally. As for the fuel pressure i took the filter off and turned it over and fuel runs through fine from the tank. I checked the wiring and it looks ok. No codes are present. This just started it happened a long time ago but after I changed the fuel filter it worked fine so I changed it again thinking it was the problem again but after i did it the problem still persists. I don't have any check engine light on either....
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I don't get it. Usually after I've driven the car, either of the remotes (I've changed batteries on both) do not work. However, if I go into a store and come out 10 minutes later, both remotes will lock, unlock, open the trunk, sound the emergency horn without any problems.
I've even replaced the Keyless Entry Theft Cont Module, which is basically the Remote Entry receiver located in the trunk. I still have the exact same problem with the new receiver.
The remote fobs have new batteries, and one is brand new and programmed with a GM Tech Tool II. The system's receiver is new.
What else could it be. Why does the remote entry only work when the car has been sitting idyll for a while.
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I am having a hard time figuring out what is going on with my A/C. First time you start it for the day, works great, blows cold air, but will only do it for about five minutes, then the compressor kicks off.
I have tried by-passing the high and low pressure switches, compressor still will not kick on. Checked the air-gap, it is fine, and I actually removed the shim, so there is almost no gap at all now, didn't fix the problem.
I tried replacing the A/C clutch relay, no luck there. I can tell you that if I manually push the contact in on the A/C clutch relay, the compressor kicks in and runs.
The only thing I can think of at this point is the A/C control panel in the dash, but wanted to check before I buy that expensive part and replace.
If it matters, this is on a 2000 Excursion, with the 6.8l v-10
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