Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Rear Wheels Hopping At The Hub By 50 Mph
May 9, 2016
Vehicle is a 2000 Ex. Limited 2WD 6.8, 3:73 rear, 135,000 miles purchased at the end of December (Merry Christmas to me!). When I purchased the vehicle it had some vibration at speed, that I chalked up to the completely worn tires, tire rod ends and ball joints, all that I knew about when purchasing. The vibration slowly builds up to 70mph, and then comes on like a light switch where it is nearly violent, then slowly dissipates over 80mph. First on the vehicle were new BFG TA/KO2's 285 75 16. No change in vibration. Next were ball joints and tie rod ends. No change in vibration. Next were new inner/outer front hub bearings, rotors, pads. No change in vibration. At this point I was scratching my head a little. I had the tire balance checked twice by two different shops. Alignment was also checked by two different shops.
The vehicle has 2" spacers under the front coils and an aftermarket 4" lift block in the rear of unknown manufacture. I decided that the vibration may be due to an incorrect taper on the block causing a pinion angle issue. I replaced the block with a stock F-350 block for the same wheelbase truck. No change in vibration.
At this point I figure all that is left is the driveshaft and I am very fortunate to have the great guys at Driveshaft Specialists about 2 miles away from my office here in San Antonio. They took it out for a drive and said "we'd love to sell you a new driveshaft, but we don't think that's it." They put it on the lift, jacked up the rear by the differential and ran it up to speed. By 50mph the rear wheels had VERY VISIBLE "hopping" at the hub. You would have thought there were 5lb weights attached to the inside of each wheel. It was vibrating like crazy. There isn't any noise or play to indicate bearings (and with the amount of wobble/hopping/vibration I was seeing the bearings would have to be reduced to dust). Their best guess is that somehow the axles are bent
They referred me to another shop where the Ex will be going today, for possibly new axles. I am leaving for a 2500 mile round trip road trip Thursday and am at my wits (and wallets) end.
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Here's a new one. Driving along the other day and the back starts hopping. Stop to check and I notice that the rear brake is hot. Stop and wait for it to cool down and then look at the rear calliper, give a wiggle and it is free again. It then drove fine for a couple of days and then today, whilst driving down the road it starts to hop again. Stop and the same hub is hot. Only a mile home so drove slowly back to check it out. Thinking it is some muck got into it causing it to stick. (Living in the Rockies, lots of sand on the road at the moment to deal with all the snow.) When I get home found that front left wheel is cool but all other 3 are HOT!! The hopping started on a long flat stretch and I hadn't applied the brakes. Is it possible for the ABS sensor to apply the brakes when you are not using the pedal or is there another reason for 3 wheels to start braking?
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My 2002 X won't shift into 4wd. The dash light comes on, but only my rear wheels are engaging. Trying for a half hour, I intermittently was able to get it into 4LO without the front wheels engaging still, but it took me a long time to get it out of LO. While in neutral, I would switch the dash selector out of 4LO into 4HI and it wouldn't switch. Id move the truck a few feet forward and then back and try again and finally got it out of 4 LO, but it went back to just the rears, even with the 4x4 HI dash light on. I replaced the ESOF hubs with warn hubs a few months ago, so the ESOF aren't the problem. The only thing I didn't do when I swapped out the ESOF was plug the vacuum lines, would that affect manual hubs? I am visiting relatives in eastern WA and it has snowed 5 inches in the past few hours. I need to make it 180 miles home tomorrow.
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I've only had the Ex for a few months so I'm still learning... After a trip to Orlando this weekend, I noticed a very faint odor of differential fluid from the driver's side front and rear wheels.
Nothing on the passenger's side. I've inspected the pinions and axles and found no wet areas at all, so I'm a little perplexed. The wheels and axle housings were pretty cool considering a 5 hour round trip.
I was also wondering if what I am smelling is due to the axle vent hoses?
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I have a 2000 Toyota 4 Runner with 115k miles on it. While in Colorado a month ago, we were driving down a snow covered hill and some guy banged on the window telling us the right rear wheel wasn't spinning. We put it in reverse and it rolled fine that way but still didn't when we headed back in drive. I goosed it a little bit and it went "bam" and drove fine after that.
We were in 4 wheel drive at the time. Last night it happened again. I put the vehicle in drive and it wouldn't budge. I goosed it a little again and it went "bam" and drove several feet until I stopped. It froze up again for a few more minutes. It was NOT in 4 wheel drive this time. Is it time to dump this thing or get a new transmission in preparation for the inevitable?
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I just bought a 2000 ford excursion 7.3. None of the power door locks currently work but the one I am really consented about is the back window that folds up and down. I need to find out how to fix this back window because I can't lock it with the key like the others.
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I've got a 2000 Ex that goes through rear tires like they're candy. I am running 37" tires and they wear very quickly on the inside. I do have a positrac rear end but i don't think it's functioning as the last time i tested it only one tire spun out. (not sure if that makes a difference)
So since this is a solid rear axle there's not really any alignment that can cause the insides to wear prematurely is there? The front tires wear fine with no issues. Anything I should check? Right now the insides are bald again so I'm going to have to buy another set of tires but since this last set lasted me about 8 months Id really like to see if i can solve this problem before putting new tires on it.
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My rear A/C and heat are not working on my 2000 X. I don't have an owners manual for my truck, so if there's a rear A/C fuse somewhere either under the dash or under the hood?
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So yesterday I tried to tackle this project. I soaked the latched in penetrating oil got it all loosened up were I could actually lock it with the key. So tried it with the key fob and no lock or unlock. So I pulled the actuator out and did the "tin foil" trick. Still wouldn't work. Didn't push the lock far enough to Lock the glass. However, it did move the latch. So I went down and purchased a NEW one from auto parts store stuck it in and whip-bang-boom it don't work either. As it don't push the lock far enough to lock the glass.
Vehicle 2000 X 4x4 w/ v10 Yes lock moves freely with little effort
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This is a 2000 EX with 146k miles on it bone stock. I have not done any of the regular maintenance on it yet or even gotten to really check this problem out. I am not driving it at this time mainly due to this problem.
The noise is heard the best at the rear of the engine and underneath the truck as the video shows. It seems to slightly change in sound (maybe a tad bit quieter) once I put it in gear (drive and reverse), I have not really heard a change in it after the truck has warmed up either. It does not sound at all really metallic to me..
[URL] ....
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I tried oiling the hinge and installing a new wiper but it seems like the spring isn't strong enough.
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2000 Excursion V10 4x4. I'm getting a popping noise coming from the rear end when I apply the brakes and come to a complete stop and when I release the brakes to take off. It only happens the moment it comes to a complete stop and the moment it takes off. Not when I'm putting it in forward or reverse or accelerating or decelerating. U joints are fine. I was laying under the truck poking around the other day and when I roll it back and forth in park the few inches it'll go, when it comes to the end of it's travel the axle wraps a little and it seems like the transfer case output shaft flange is moving in and out of the transfer case and causing the noise. I'm assuming there is a snap ring holding the output bearing in place. I didn't have time to drop the driveshaft but am planning on it this weekend to see if it still does it when I roll it and to inspect the transfer case. I need to check to make sure the driveshaft splines are not seized up but they seem to have a little free play to them.
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Rear steel brake line ruptured the other day (was pretty rusty). Despite being an idiot in regards to automotive repair (among many other things), I decided to give it a shot. I was able to get the damaged section off, went to Autozone with the broken piece, they matched it up, were nice enough to cut it and put on one larger fitting (because the two were different sizes) and flare it for me.
I was able to get the one side (at the T fitting) on OK. That was the "new" side, the one they flared at Autozone. Looks good. No leaks.
The stock side, at the passenger side caliper, leaks like crazy. Not out the threads, but out the hole through which the line passes. Know what I mean?
I'm having a hard time figuring out what's happening, because I'm not sure how this thing works. Does the line fit flush to something inside the connection at the caliper? Is it a bad flare?
It did not go in easy, but the new one was just as much trouble as the fitting that came out (stock?), so it must be right.
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I have two issues with my 2000 6.8L gas excursion. Neither seem to be causing any harm...
1st issue - While its raining, or even just really humid, on a cold startup, my truck runs rough. it almost feels like it wants to die, but doesn't. After about a 1000 feet down the road, it runs normal.
2nd issue - I've started noticing that almost always, I here a whirring type of sound coming from the back. It is not from the brakes, as they are new and the sound is best heard at a complete stop. The sound lasts for about 3 seconds and then repeats after a few more seconds. At first I thought it was the coolant circulating through the pipes that run to the rear heater unit, since the sound sounds a lot like fluid flowing through a pipe. However, my coolant level is normal and the system is tight and I have not had to add any since the only major overhaul in January. At idle, the engine sounds like it isn't idling at a constant rpm, but more like a slight up and down in rpm, but the amount is so slight, it doesn't register on the tach. The only other thing that comes to mind is the fuel pump. Is this sound a sound of imminent failure of the fuel pump? Or is it normal? The truck otherwise runs great at any speed and pulls my boat as well as I would expect it to.
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I am in need of a wiring diagram for a 00 ex with factory auto dimming rear view mirror. It only has 3 wires and I think I have them figured out but would like to make sure before making a pigtail to install a mirror I have that has 6 wires.
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What to do with the worn out steering wheels on these rigs? Mine is worn to the point that it's getting loose on the top section.
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Have been battling this for months. Thought it was warped rotors, but has continued to go crazy. Truck is fine until braking at freeway speeds to 0 at about 35 front end goes crazy with shakes. Wheels physically wobble. Thought it was bearings replaced them. Put on rancho 9000 shocks replaced all steering and tie rods had aligned. Put on EDC slotted and drilled rotors with yellow stuff pads, new calipers. Each time worked for about 15 miles than started again until crazy wobble. Scaring the wife and kids to point they will no longer ride in truck. Steering is now slack need to adjust and probably need to look at everything again but it still is rectifying symptoms not problem.
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I recently (1month ago) rebuilt my entire front end. The only things that were not replaced are track bar, steering box, front driveshaft, and sway bar bushings. I'm having the same issues that I had before the rebuild. It just feels like the front is is on basketballs. Hopping and vibrating at any speed or rpm. On a smooth road or on the highway it feels like I'm hitting bumps that aren't there.
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When I turn the wheels to full lock, either right or left, I hear a clunking sound. Usually pulling into parking spots, into the driveway, etc.....but only going forward, not in reverse. Where do I start?
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There has got to be an easier way then the homemade method I'm using?
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After a transmission flush, my husband's Ford Ranger rear wheels have locked when backing out of the garage; pulling out of a parking spot; and driving down a hill.
He had checked the transmission fluid level, and it was a little high. The shop drained it down to where it should be, said the fluid was discolored, and sent him on his way. But it has happened again since then.
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