Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Rear Tire Wears Too Rapidly?
Mar 14, 2016
I've got a 2000 Ex that goes through rear tires like they're candy. I am running 37" tires and they wear very quickly on the inside. I do have a positrac rear end but i don't think it's functioning as the last time i tested it only one tire spun out. (not sure if that makes a difference)
So since this is a solid rear axle there's not really any alignment that can cause the insides to wear prematurely is there? The front tires wear fine with no issues. Anything I should check? Right now the insides are bald again so I'm going to have to buy another set of tires but since this last set lasted me about 8 months Id really like to see if i can solve this problem before putting new tires on it.
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I have a 2000 EX V10 100K miles. Saturday my anti theft light started blinking rapidly and the truck would turn over but no fuel. No check engine light. Fires up if I use starter fluid. I have read online alot about PATS systems and keys so I tried my extra key.... Did not work. I am planning to try syncing the key with the truck again today. Whats next? I checked all fuses twice. I saw somewhere about the ECM? Might have an issue?
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Ripped out rear heater core lines. Bashed up body
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I'm 650 miles from home in WV and the truck overheated and I saw coolant leaking from the area above the passenger side rear tire.
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So rolling down I29 and its cold and the wind is howling. Rear tire goes out sidewall blow. Thinking load rating of C is not enough for the EX?
Anyways not a big deal cause I'm smart! I checked my spare and all the stuff I need to change it cause i'm prepared. Go to put the tire iron on that I removed from under the hood perfect fit too. Guess what, it is way to small for the lugs. Luckily I had earned some karma points the day before working for a guy with a 02 F250 7.3 who's alternator died. A guy in a suburban stopped and his wrench was close enough to crack the nuts.
So after searching and not finding much my two questions are. Any replacement for the factory tire iron that bolts under the hood? Is there another vehicle other then an Ex I can take it from? I like the idea of it being there bolted down under the hood.
What load rating is everyone running and or recommends. I noticed my spare was an F lol which is far from C. My EX is 7.3 and She was loaded heavy with black friday goods.
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Proud new owner of a 2001 Excursion with 7.3. The gentleman I bought the X from had four Michelin LTX M/S2's. 285/75/R16. Looks like they had plenty of tread left so I was happy, until I got home and noticed a large slice in the side wall of the right rear.( approx 2" long and 1/4"deep.). I will be towing a 8000 lb trailer with three kids. Went to big tire store and they replaced one tire. They said it would be fine with different depth. (Exact same tire). When I got home I looked at tread, has noticeable difference in depth. Looks like 3.5MM diff from what I measured. My question is this, will this be ok or will this possible damage the rear end having slightly diff overall size?
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My dad has a 2002 Limited X and my uncle had a '99? F350 dually. Both have this issue:
-Occasionally when driving down the road the truck will suddenly just try to veer off to one side or the other and then the steering gets really rough (The steering wheel moves back and forth rapidly. My dad has to pull off to the side of the road, completely stop and turn the wheel all the way to each side twice and it seems to correct it momentarily.
-The other issue is that when making a corner there will be a hard "thump" noise, and then the before mentioned issue occurs.
My dad has replaced all 4 ball joints, the 1 bad tie rod and has gone through a set of Warn Lockout Hubs (In less then 6 months. He had to drive around with the hubs locked in to prevent the truck from pulling due to warn out needle bearing. This somehow resulted in the passenger side Hub being internally destroyed and that wasn't even the side the bad ball joint was on.)
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When my truck is parked, I go to the rear tire and shake it back and forth and hear a slight clunking noise from either the tire or rear end. Its like the axle is making the noise?
2000 7.3 Power Strke Super Crew 4x4
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Vehicle is a 2000 Ex. Limited 2WD 6.8, 3:73 rear, 135,000 miles purchased at the end of December (Merry Christmas to me!). When I purchased the vehicle it had some vibration at speed, that I chalked up to the completely worn tires, tire rod ends and ball joints, all that I knew about when purchasing. The vibration slowly builds up to 70mph, and then comes on like a light switch where it is nearly violent, then slowly dissipates over 80mph. First on the vehicle were new BFG TA/KO2's 285 75 16. No change in vibration. Next were ball joints and tie rod ends. No change in vibration. Next were new inner/outer front hub bearings, rotors, pads. No change in vibration. At this point I was scratching my head a little. I had the tire balance checked twice by two different shops. Alignment was also checked by two different shops.
The vehicle has 2" spacers under the front coils and an aftermarket 4" lift block in the rear of unknown manufacture. I decided that the vibration may be due to an incorrect taper on the block causing a pinion angle issue. I replaced the block with a stock F-350 block for the same wheelbase truck. No change in vibration.
At this point I figure all that is left is the driveshaft and I am very fortunate to have the great guys at Driveshaft Specialists about 2 miles away from my office here in San Antonio. They took it out for a drive and said "we'd love to sell you a new driveshaft, but we don't think that's it." They put it on the lift, jacked up the rear by the differential and ran it up to speed. By 50mph the rear wheels had VERY VISIBLE "hopping" at the hub. You would have thought there were 5lb weights attached to the inside of each wheel. It was vibrating like crazy. There isn't any noise or play to indicate bearings (and with the amount of wobble/hopping/vibration I was seeing the bearings would have to be reduced to dust). Their best guess is that somehow the axles are bent
They referred me to another shop where the Ex will be going today, for possibly new axles. I am leaving for a 2500 mile round trip road trip Thursday and am at my wits (and wallets) end.
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I just bought a 2000 ford excursion 7.3. None of the power door locks currently work but the one I am really consented about is the back window that folds up and down. I need to find out how to fix this back window because I can't lock it with the key like the others.
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My rear A/C and heat are not working on my 2000 X. I don't have an owners manual for my truck, so if there's a rear A/C fuse somewhere either under the dash or under the hood?
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So yesterday I tried to tackle this project. I soaked the latched in penetrating oil got it all loosened up were I could actually lock it with the key. So tried it with the key fob and no lock or unlock. So I pulled the actuator out and did the "tin foil" trick. Still wouldn't work. Didn't push the lock far enough to Lock the glass. However, it did move the latch. So I went down and purchased a NEW one from auto parts store stuck it in and whip-bang-boom it don't work either. As it don't push the lock far enough to lock the glass.
Vehicle 2000 X 4x4 w/ v10 Yes lock moves freely with little effort
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This is a 2000 EX with 146k miles on it bone stock. I have not done any of the regular maintenance on it yet or even gotten to really check this problem out. I am not driving it at this time mainly due to this problem.
The noise is heard the best at the rear of the engine and underneath the truck as the video shows. It seems to slightly change in sound (maybe a tad bit quieter) once I put it in gear (drive and reverse), I have not really heard a change in it after the truck has warmed up either. It does not sound at all really metallic to me..
[URL] ....
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I tried oiling the hinge and installing a new wiper but it seems like the spring isn't strong enough.
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I disconnected the battery cable and when I reconnected it the red 'theft' light began rapidly blinking on the dash and ignition/starting was disabled. followed owners manual advice using the key to unlocking drivers door (to re-set anti-theft device) but this did not work. Called two Ford dealers and both say have to tow car in for this to be fixed. Problem is, car is on an island with no towing service available. I'm thinking there must be a way around this. I have two original keys with the key fobs and neither works to fix it by unlocking the door.
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2000 Excursion V10 4x4. I'm getting a popping noise coming from the rear end when I apply the brakes and come to a complete stop and when I release the brakes to take off. It only happens the moment it comes to a complete stop and the moment it takes off. Not when I'm putting it in forward or reverse or accelerating or decelerating. U joints are fine. I was laying under the truck poking around the other day and when I roll it back and forth in park the few inches it'll go, when it comes to the end of it's travel the axle wraps a little and it seems like the transfer case output shaft flange is moving in and out of the transfer case and causing the noise. I'm assuming there is a snap ring holding the output bearing in place. I didn't have time to drop the driveshaft but am planning on it this weekend to see if it still does it when I roll it and to inspect the transfer case. I need to check to make sure the driveshaft splines are not seized up but they seem to have a little free play to them.
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Rear steel brake line ruptured the other day (was pretty rusty). Despite being an idiot in regards to automotive repair (among many other things), I decided to give it a shot. I was able to get the damaged section off, went to Autozone with the broken piece, they matched it up, were nice enough to cut it and put on one larger fitting (because the two were different sizes) and flare it for me.
I was able to get the one side (at the T fitting) on OK. That was the "new" side, the one they flared at Autozone. Looks good. No leaks.
The stock side, at the passenger side caliper, leaks like crazy. Not out the threads, but out the hole through which the line passes. Know what I mean?
I'm having a hard time figuring out what's happening, because I'm not sure how this thing works. Does the line fit flush to something inside the connection at the caliper? Is it a bad flare?
It did not go in easy, but the new one was just as much trouble as the fitting that came out (stock?), so it must be right.
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I have two issues with my 2000 6.8L gas excursion. Neither seem to be causing any harm...
1st issue - While its raining, or even just really humid, on a cold startup, my truck runs rough. it almost feels like it wants to die, but doesn't. After about a 1000 feet down the road, it runs normal.
2nd issue - I've started noticing that almost always, I here a whirring type of sound coming from the back. It is not from the brakes, as they are new and the sound is best heard at a complete stop. The sound lasts for about 3 seconds and then repeats after a few more seconds. At first I thought it was the coolant circulating through the pipes that run to the rear heater unit, since the sound sounds a lot like fluid flowing through a pipe. However, my coolant level is normal and the system is tight and I have not had to add any since the only major overhaul in January. At idle, the engine sounds like it isn't idling at a constant rpm, but more like a slight up and down in rpm, but the amount is so slight, it doesn't register on the tach. The only other thing that comes to mind is the fuel pump. Is this sound a sound of imminent failure of the fuel pump? Or is it normal? The truck otherwise runs great at any speed and pulls my boat as well as I would expect it to.
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I am in need of a wiring diagram for a 00 ex with factory auto dimming rear view mirror. It only has 3 wires and I think I have them figured out but would like to make sure before making a pigtail to install a mirror I have that has 6 wires.
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1. What is the "stock" tire size for a 2000 F350 7.3 Super Duty 4x4 SRW?
2. Is there a way to adjust PCM to accommodate different tire sizes?
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I have a 2000 GMC sierra 1500 5.3 L V8. Recently I have noticed that when I first start my truck, especially if it's a cold start, it doesn't seem to be running right. It sounds almost as if it's not getting enough fuel to me but I'm not sure. It will first run really good, and then it will drop in RPM's pretty rapidly and almost sound as if it was about to die, which it has died a couple of times in the past from this problem.
Once I give it some gas it seems as if it comes back to life, but if I happen to stop at a red light or stop sign pretty soon after driving, I will encounter the same problem, where it sounds as if it may be about to die. After I get going though, the problem disappears and the truck runs great. I decided to pull the codes finally today, and code P0174 and code P0171 popped up. I have looked at the vacuum hoses and they all seem to be in good shape, but like I said earlier, I could be wrong.
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